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So, I bought this goon ..........


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If it becomes too much of a hassle, I do have an original wagon rear end so I am not overly concerned. Also, it needed to come out anyway since it needed to be centered and something done about keeping U-bolts/springs and axles all together. It has been kind of a rabbit hole thing of "well, I'm doing this so while I'm at it I may as well do....".

You've been there, you know.

I'm just happy to be working on this after all this time (years) and at this point I have to keep moving forward because I need to use those jack stands to work on something else.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So, about that rear diff. My cousin came up yesterday with his grinder and got after it a little bit.

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Gotta love a guy what works for beer.

 

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Well, my cousin came up again today....

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Some stuff got done.

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2" lowering springs from T3, new shocks, and somewhat cleaned rear diff. didn't take any pics of the diff after I got done cleaning, cuz I ain't as good at cleaning metal as he is. Yes, we will paint the rear diff after we figure out the angle of the dangle. He is off to the farm for the summer so won't nothing get done on this thing, just watch.

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I have a full set of these, they're 14". Also, pretty sure I have a set of tires that will fit.

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I haven't pulled them all out but this one seems to have some type of coating on the bits that should be shiny. 

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Not real sure what to use to remove it. I tried a plastic razor blade and that was an exercise in futility. Any ideas and or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Now that the rear end is somewhat squared away, on to the front suspension stuff. I have several crossmembers laying around here. Not entirely sure how to remove the pin/bolt that attaches the LCA to the cross member. I have one that has no pins in it, one that has pins in it (the crusty one in the pic below), and the one that is still in the car. When I took out the left LCA, the pin came out with it. The LCA's will be replaced with the T3 GTX2 kit.

 

I should probably stick to the 1200's.

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Pins come out the LCA side after removing the nut from the other side. They have a tapered shoulder that fits snug in the cross member, kind of like a ball joint taper. Keeps it nice & tight. Loosen the nut enough to be off the end of the threads a little and then smack it with a mallet.

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On 4/24/2022 at 8:02 AM, KELMO said:

I have a full set of these, they're 14". Also, pretty sure I have a set of tires that will fit.

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FYI, if you haven't used those before, you need the factory lug nuts from a 280ZX/Maxima to mount them correctly. They are a larger size shank than aftermarket "mag" lug nuts. 

 

Also, those are wicked heavy for 14s (usually 19-20 pounds each). Not the best for performance/acceleration, but they will take a big hit and not miss a beat.   😁

 

 

This is why Dave Coleman used them on his "Rally Beater"...

 

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Edited by datsunfreak
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"Might want to have a torch handy too.  😁"

 

Got lucky and out they came with just a couple smacks. Took the ones out of the haggard one I had laying around.

 

"FYI, if you haven't used those before, you need the factory lug nuts from a 280ZX/Maxima to mount them correctly. They are a larger size shank than aftermarket "mag" lug nuts. "

 

Got that covered as well. It has the 15" swaztika (SP?) wheels on it now that use the same lug nut. 40224-R4670 (I think that is the part #).

 

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18 minutes ago, KELMO said:

Got that covered as well. It has the 15" swaztika (SP?) wheels on it now that use the same lug nut. 

 

Yeah, I forgot about that...  😄

 

Proper tire size should be around a 185/60 or 195/60. 👍

 

I would stick with the swastikas just because they are 15 pounds each, but the iron cross wheels do look better. And the swastikas are quite fragile compared to those. 

 

But I would paint them black because I don't like the centers...  😁

 

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Currently the centers are white. I threatened to paint them a very deep dark red (don't know why, I just think it may look cool). Black would be nice also or if I could get them back to original. Which, if I remember correctly, was just the metal finish (kinda sorta maybe). Additionally, I have a set of 14" tires that were on the grey coupe some time ago. They are probably beyond their use by date but on the other hand they have been stored inside the whole time I have had them and have very low miles on them.

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The turn signals I have do not seem to be correct. In my low level working brain the back of the housing should mount flush with the core support. I thought maybe I goofed and grabbed a 1200 lamp but no, they are flat on the back and mount a bit differently. 

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