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slowlearner

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Everything posted by slowlearner

  1. Another question... I'm trying to get an oil pressure/temperature sensor (common VW/Audi sensor) on my datsun l18 motor. The issue is this. The sensor = m10x1.0 straight thread. The engine block = m10x1.0 TAPER thread. So the T adapter I've bought in m10x1.0 straight won't fit and neither will the sensor. I can't seem to find a tapered die in m10x1.0. I could retap the block for a straight thread but I'd risk leaving shavings in the oil gallery. Thoughts?
  2. I'd personally get it running first, then do a comp test after that. But like you said, getting the rings freed up is going to help a lot. My 510 sat in a shed for 20 years and runs smoke free now. It's not making a ton of power, but it got through inspection just fine. Once you've got your inspection done, throw in whatever motor you like and keep the original as a back up. 😉
  3. Hard to tell without taking the cap off. I thought most of them came with a module but I guess everything has been shrunk down with digital electronics. Reminds me of these... PerTronix D186504 Flame-Thrower Electronic Distributor Cast VW Type 1 (pertronixbrands.com) Apparently they're "plug and play" so the nissan dizzy could be too.
  4. Today's efforts are in aid of another issue I've been having. Ie. fuel pressure. I've got the rail set to 45psi, but when I get down to half a tank, it's dropping to 35psi. Obviously, this might lead to running the motor lean. Thankfully the megasquirt is using the AFR table and the Wideband to stop that (I hope). The issue is I've connected the return line to factory tank return, which drops fuel into the top of the tank. The fuel dropping back into the tank is causing aeration and lower fuel pressure. So I've got to change the return line to run into the fuel pot on the bottom of the tank. Ironically, I called a buddy to pick his brain about this very issue and he's having the same problem on his rally car. He was able to diagnose my issue in 5 seconds flat. Nice, but I wish I'd done it this was in the first place. Typical really. 🙄
  5. I think I prefer garlic and onions, but yes. I know what you mean.
  6. Hmmm, the garage floor is covered in 2 litres of petrol and I'm slightly high... Why do I always end up smelling like petrol?
  7. I've had a really successful couple of days tuning the motor. I changed the stock buick v6, 208cc injectors over to L67, 380cc injectors. I found a really good video on acceleration enrichment. Between the two, the car is running really well. Today I had Stuart Wilkins have a quick look at the motor. He gave me some tips about helping make more power. I also had him listen to it. I was concerned about pinging at light load but he said it was fine. In January, I'll have him dyno tune it.
  8. I guess it depends what you want to do with it. I've got coils and bilsteins in mine. Drives nice, but I'm not circuit racing. Just dailying and the odd khana. Cool to see a KA24DET down here. There are lots in the US but I haven't seen many here. Stewart Wilkins was spruking the KA24 to me over a 2.3l L20B stroker.
  9. I wondered about that. How much resistance you'd need would be hard to ascertain. Worth trying though. Thanks!
  10. Are you keeping the coils or fitting coilovers?
  11. Had the car out a few times recently. I'm currently working on installing new injectors (380cc up from 215cc) and an idle valve. I also need to sort out accel enrichment, but I think it needs more injector for that. Today's little challenge is temp gauge related. I had to replaced my old L18 temp sender because it started leakly. The sender is hooked up to the stock flat dash. The ECU has a separate temp sender. The problem being the gauge is now reading a lot hotter than it used to. What you're seeing here is 88degC. When the motor hits 93degC (fans switching on), it's just nudging the red. Any thoughts on how to bring the gauge back into a more normal range?
  12. Hey man, welcome. Nice to have another Aussie on ratsun. That's a VERY clean 1600 there. Looks like you're throwing the whole maddat catalogue at it. Should be fun! Where abouts are you in Aust?
  13. Have you contacted the repairers about this? Maybe it's an old patch. I'm of course being an optimist at this point, but you never know. Seems odd to me they wouldn't see the bubbles breaking out under the car. I know I laid underneath mine and poked around at anything suspect with a screwdriver. That's how I found the horror caused by the fuse box base rusting and letting water into the driver's floor. 😞 On the upside, it's not in an obvious place and easily be fixed without disturbing the rest of the body work. 👍
  14. I have to agree that a decent exhaust is the difference between short term fun and longer term comfort. I was out driving my 510 today and what surprised once again is how quiet it is compared to the 56 beetle I used to own. The beetle had a turbo (the best mufflers) and a hotdog, but man. It was so noisy on the freeway. The datto has a nice 1 3/4" system with a resonator and muffler.
  15. Hilarious story... I was driving along today and the damn thing died again. Dang, what's wrong with it now! Wouldn't restart. I had the laptop with me doing some tuning. Spent 10 minutes looking up the datalog. Couldn't find anything that told me what was wrong but I could hear the fuel pump working and the ECU was working fine. It had to be ignition related but I was floored. So I finally lifted the bonnet, the plug from the coil packs had come loose. I had to laugh. 😆
  16. Solved!!! Yay! 😃 I have 2005 Golf wasted spark coil packs and leads on the Datsun. With the coil on the rocker cover, I had 3 unnecessarily long plug leads. So I cut the resistor/shielded ends of and installed normal silicon boots and clips. But not on all of them. This where I made my mistake. I suspect the car would have run fine with all normal, or all resistor/shielded. However, with the wasted spark setup, I had cyl 1 with much bigger resistance than cyl 4. As the coil heated up, it must have been throwing all sorts of weird noise. That's what was shutting the ECU down. So today, having figured it out last night in bed, I ordered a new coil (they had one on the shelf) and leads. I also put resister plugs in and the car runs really well again. #thanks for all your help and kids, don't mix spark different plug leads! Now, I think I'm up for some bigger injectors.
  17. Where is that patch? Seems pretty bad.
  18. And I was wrong... 😞 Got no idea what the issue is. Still chasing it .
  19. I've spent the last few weeks fighting intermittent issues. First up, the toothed wheel was rubbing on the waterpump pulley. Having shimmed the toothed wheel and sensor mount, I started having issues with the crank angle sensor. What a pain. The car drove perfectly before and now it was stumbling and the fuel pump relay was turning off all over the place. I tried a bunch of stuff. Sensor Wiring Mount Plug boots Datalogs traced a sync losses. Tonight, I think I finally figured it out. Something near the sensor or lead was adding electronics noise to the signal. The noise was causing the sensor to read wrong and make the motor stumble. I think what has been happening is the crank angle sensor wires have been flapping against (or close to) the alternator. This makes sense because it an alternator creates a huge magnetic field. So I strapped the lead back where it was before. The signal issue seems to have gone away. I'll test it properly tomorrow.
  20. Alright, so I'm kinda in uncharted territory now. I've been doing a bunch of tuning on the datto. I started with this AFR (air fuel ratios) table for Megasquirt. This are the safe AFR and Ignition advance tables. But really, with these are I'm not getting the best from the EFI. It is possible to run the motor a lot leaner in cruising state by advancing the ignition 3-5deg. It's a lot better for fuel economy and the engine actually runs cooler. I did the very same thing on my old VW flat four and it worked a treat. My issue is, I don't really know the sound of the motor of L series motors. The new setup has some interesting new sounds. A sort of whistle at low revs under load. Then a sort of sizzle under load in the mid range. I pulled some advance out and got rid of the sizzle (which I assumed was slight pinging). I'd appreciate your input on this. I can get the fuel mixtures right with the wideband 02 sensor, but healthy ignition advance on Dattos is a mystery to me.
  21. I guarantee your soft lines are junk anyway.
  22. Thought you might like to see the final setup. I need to shorten the spark plug leads. Unifilter came in today. I've put it down low where there's a hole in radiator support panel.
  23. Over the last two days, I've been getting the car running and tuning it. I had a bit of an issue with the fans, which turned out to be a dirty, old fuse holder. That's sorted now and the car drives so nicely. The combination of a really light gas pedal and super responsiveness is so lovely to drive. You can see a vid of the car running here. Instagram Thanks to everyone who helped me out with this. I've still got some things to sort with the tune and some wiring, but the car feels completely different to drive. I honestly can't believe the difference. The SUs were pretty good for what they were, but the big single TB/plenum and long runners are a revelation. Instant, big torque and the car rushes up to the 6000rpm redline.
  24. I know! 😁 But most of the time it's 'metal in gap' around here. 😉 Great news! The car runs!!! Pete Wood (@reverendrally) • Instagram photos and videos After spending all afternoon and evening last night installing the new plenum, I still had a massive air leak. However, I went through every flange with a light smear of sealant (ok, maybe heavier in some spots) and it's running. I now have to tune it, but it's finally working. Yay!
  25. Dragged myself out of bed today and hit the shed ready to make a plenum. I was all set to make it out steel sheet when I found out our other car was ready to be picked up (broken boot latch). While at the workshop, I dropped in at the steel supplier and grabbed at 3x3" box section offcut. Instant plenum. After a bunch of MIG welding (metal in gap) and plenty of grinding, I had a finished plenum. Don't look to closely, lol. The paint's drying now so hopefully I can put it all together tomorrow.
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