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Everything posted by slowlearner

  1. I've been chipping away at the loom recently. I got it 95% done and in the car to start working on the various sensor hook ups. Today, I finally got the crank, coolant and air intake temp sensors all working. I had the crank sensor wired in backwards and it needed a resistor to get rid of background noise. But it's all working! I'm yet to get the base timing right, even though the coilpacks work. https://www.instagram.com/p/CT9AkCShAvL/?utm_medium=copy_link
  2. I've talked to a few locals and their setups they are all like this including a friend's rally car. I will test it out though and if there are problems I'll add some rubber flaps to the back of the shroud like OEM applications. The flaps are pushed open by oncoming air, but suck shut when the fan switches on. Just btw, some years ago, I looked into what sorts of airflow a radiator needed to work properly. To my shock, I was advised by an industry expert that they only needed 40% laminar airflow to work at the front. Most of the flow comes from vacuum created by the front of the car. So, even though the radiator looks blocked I'm confident this will work well for me like it has done for others. However, I'll be the first to put up my hand and confess if I've got it wrong. 🙂
  3. Day off today. In between weeding, walking, making pizza dough and hanging with my family (we're all still in lockdown) I got to work on the fan. I bought this 9" unit after measuring and procrastinating for a week. It just fits on the carb/exhaust side of my chinese ebay aluminium radiator. Materials are a little scarce atm but I put this old sign away when the church was throwing it out. It's 2mm steel, so overkill, but free... and I like the patina. 🙂 I wanted to fold the edges of the panel over to make some rigidity, but I don't have a panel break and I tried with some clamps and a steel bar. No cigar. So I ended up adding two strips of alloy channel (from my junk metal pile) and tying more of the fan into the panel. I am a pastor, so I had to laugh when I saw it finished and those words on the inside somewhat visible. I also found some rubber strip in my box of hoses and junk. Here it is installed... Of course, when I took these pics I realized the fan was on upside down, but all fixed now. I have just enough room to get belt in between the pulley and the fan. Squeezy! Just have to wire it into the ECU now.
  4. Waiting for some tape to come in so I can finish my loom. In the mean time, I'm trying to get little things done. So having removed the factory fan, I was able to finally install the crank sensor and 36-1 wheel. I still need to time the wheel but I need to get the loom finished before I can hook up the ECU to do that.
  5. I've gotta say, air bags seem pretty attractive to me too, if I wasn't such a tight wad.
  6. Yeah, I've been meaning to do the same.
  7. Interesting to hear. That's a proper price. 510s are big money over here atm. Wagons not so much. Which has always made me wonder about the difference between the US and Aust scenes. Almost no one over here hops up wagons, but they make a lot of sense if you want to go drag racing or similar... or you want the extra space. 😉
  8. So apparently 6yo, half slime RTV doesn't seal properly. And I also discovered the newer temperature sensor I had wasn't right for my stock temperature gauge, which I want to keep. So the thermostat housing came off again. A proper gasket and some new sealant. I also took the opportunity to measure the resistance of the efi coolant sensor for the ECU.
  9. So great to see the car so near driving! BTW, I'm not sure if this is an issue on Zs, but my dual SU linkage is very prone to hanging up at idle. Apparently they're famous for it.
  10. Yeah, I ended up sanding the head side of the housing. Hopefully that does the trick. My RTV sealant was kinda old too, so maybe that didn't help.
  11. I spent half the day working on the car today. Pulling the radiator and the thermostat housing. Cleaning out the fuel tank and putting the liner kit in it... The tank liner didn't work properly. 😞 Basically it seems like the weather was too cold (23degC) so the epoxy was too thick. That was after I waited for warm weather and followed the instructions to a T. I think I'm gonna just run E10 and hope for the best. After that, the thermostat housing leaked and I had to pull it off and try again. Hopefully it won't leak this time. However, I did get the fan removed and a thermo fan ordered. Coz buying parts is the same as doing things, right?
  12. What sort of headlights have you got there? They look pretty cool.
  13. Thanks for that. 🙂 I'm following the instructions for the microsquirt. It uses the ground to switch the fuel pump. But I'll keep that in mind.
  14. Time to work out my fuse/relay box. I'm using these relays... https://www.amazon.com/Song-Chuan-301-1A-C-R1-U03-12VDC-Micro/dp/B075MZ26DD Step 1 was to draw up a diagram so I don't screw it up. If you happen to notice I've done something wrong here feel free to harangue me!
  15. Had a big day in the shed today. I was keen on getting all the plugs on the look. At the same time, I was terrified of pinning plugs. I've never pinned plugs til today, so I was very hesitant about getting it wrong. So I started with an EV1. I had another 4 spares, so I figured I could easily replace one if I needed to. Of course, ten minutes later, I needed to de-pin it. I couldn't find any tools locally so I had to make some out of fencing wire. I've had a good day and I got all the plugs on the loom. I did have some dramas with the oil temp/pres sensor connector. I struggled to unlock it. In the end, I discovered there's a lock that slides across. Having got all the wires seated, I can't get it to lock now. I don't know what the issue is, so I'm going to leave it overnight and come back to it later. It's this sensor... 145PSI (10Bar) Bosch Pressure & Temperature Sensor - Raceworks Tonight, I found this guy hiding in my bin...
  16. The big challenge will be tuning it well. A bad tune is what kills turbo engines. Depending on what the octane rating is, LPG might be better. However, you still need someone who can tune the mixtures and make sure they're right. Personally, I'd choose a motor that is more common in your country.
  17. It runs! Great work! Sounds to me like it could be missing 2 cylinders actually. Keep at it. Check your ignition and injectors and off you go. 🙂
  18. Hasn't been much driving happening recently. We're 8 weeks into lockdown and it's not a lot of fun. However, I got Nana through the yearly inspection again last week with Stew. He also picked up an issue with the clutch so that was good. Other than that, I've been procrastinating over the loom. I've stripped out the wires I don't need (although I tucked the cam ref wires away for later on if I want them). Then I got the loom in the car and lengthened some wires. I pulled the loom back out of the car to lay it out and try to group the wires into connectors. I still have to run the grounds for all the plugs. Turns out I mistook the flex for the fuel pump wire. That's fixed now.
  19. Love the color and the turbines! I've got a set on my 510.
  20. Looks good. I should pull mine out and clean it up.
  21. I agree that the scope of the cage and build on that car are way above what's needed for a street car. I fit was me fitting coilovers (which I think are a great upgrade btw) for a street car, I'd do the this. 1. Safari mod on the trailing arms. You wouldn't even need to take them off the car to do so although it would help. 2. Plate the upper shock mount, add a brace from one side to the other and seam weld around the back wheel arches and shock towers. It wouldn't be hard to do and no one would see the mods, but it would help the back of the car deal with the change in forces. That's just me though. It's his car and he's free to do what he thinks is best. 🙂
  22. Hey Bonvo, great to see more work on the 610. I love 610s, especially coupes. You're coilover change made me think of this video that Brendan Reeves put out last year when he was building his 510 rally car. It's got coilovers too... The reason I mention it is because of what someone mentioned to me a while back. That being swapping coilovers straight in without any other mods can cause issues. The trailing arms around the shock mount on the 510 are boxed in (See 10:30, it's called the "Safari" mod.) It stops the shock mount on the arm from bending. I'm also told the upper shock mount isn't really designed to have a the whole weight of the back of the car on it. You can see his upper shock mounts are all seam welded and the mounts are built into the cage and braced together (See 10:04). Anyhow, I know you're not building a rally car, but I thought you might like to see this. 🙂
  23. Would be a lot more fun with another 400cc and a big carb, and an open exhaust... course, it's your truck. 🙂
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