metalmonkey47 Posted June 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 :( I know Napa lists on local for cheap! Gonna call in the morning. Hopefully I can get this all finished up by noon :) The master cylinder is the only thing holding me back. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 Sweeeeet!! What's the sheet metal rattle when you kicked the motor on? Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 Winning!!! We both get to break In a motor before canby :) Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 lame-o exhaust. :-P Sweeeeet!! What's the sheet metal rattle when you kicked the motor on? Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 Winning!!! We both get to break In a motor before canby :) Dude it feels sooooo good :fu: Sweeeeet!! What's the sheet metal rattle when you kicked the motor on? lame-o exhaust. :-P It was actually the tailgate :P I got that fixed now! for now that is.... lol the exhaust rattles like crazy though. I got it running a lot better now! It idles consistent when it's warm. I have to get the choke set up properly and adjusted because it does nothing right now. We'll see how that goes though, I still haven't driven it. I found a new spring and re-assembled the master cylinder and I have a stiffer petal, but still not disengaging the clutch all the way. I'm gonna replace the slave today, and master tomorrow morning because both are questionable. For now.... enjoy. Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 Sounds even better now. :) I had a similar problem with my clutch in my race wagon.... I had the wrong throw out bearing and had to swap mine out. :( I hope yours is just that slave cylinder.:) Quote Link to comment
'70dime Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 Sounds real good Matt!! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 Sounds like half an LS1 Brapp ity plink plink plink 1 Quote Link to comment
ddrum Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 MM47, it sounds like a fun engine! you should definitely post a video of it on a sprint. :D Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 Sounds even better now. :) I had a similar problem with my clutch in my race wagon.... I had the wrong throw out bearing and had to swap mine out. :( I hope yours is just that slave cylinder. :) Yeah, I know for a fact that's not my issue :P Thank God! The issue seems to be all M/C related. I replaced the spring with one from NAPA, and tried to bleed it after replacing the slave, and the frickin thing got WORSE. I just kept getting air in the line, and bubbles in the res. Master_o_turbonics stopped by and we took another look at it, and decided what I kinda already figured. The M/C seals are shot and its sucking air in from the back seal. No biggie, Napa will have one in the AM for me!! MM47, it sounds like a fun engine! you should definitely post a video of it on a sprint. :D She's so much better in person :fu: I'm gonna spring it down the road and get a nice video as soon as I get the clutch fixed! I won't beat on it too hard, since it's still fresh and the clutch is new. I just changed the oil and it was nastyyyyy. Now running 5qt of fresh Lucas 10W-30, some ZDDP, and a K&N Pro oil filter :thumbup: Gonna change it again in 500 miles or two weeks, whichever comes first. Then I'll have Mobil 1 10W-30 :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 I run valvoline VR1 full synthetic racing oil in my race engine. It's the only oil i've found with actually ZINC added to it for wear protection on that high lift cam. They sell it at O' Reiley's auto parts. Just a suggestion.... I crank my motor as high as 8000 rpms and never have any wear issues. :) I love that stuff ;) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 Run cheap regular oil in it through the break in period. Get 3-5K miles before thinking about synthetic. And drive that puppy! Make her work hard. Lots of gear changes and hard accelerations. (not to red line) Force the rings against the rough bore to smooth them. Keep an eye on temps and check the oil and water often but don't be afraid to pound on it. Good exercise builds muscle. 3 Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 I run valvoline VR1 full synthetic racing oil in my race engine. It's the only oil i've found with actually ZINC added to it for wear protection on that high lift cam. They sell it at O' Reiley's auto parts. Just a suggestion.... I crank my motor as high as 8000 rpms and never have any wear issues. :) I love that stuff ;) I've actually considered Valvoline myself, but at my AZ I always have Mobil 1 on sale. The 5qt of VR1 Synthetic used to sell at my store for 6.99 during the summer, so if it drops down on price again I'm gonna stock up. Run cheap regular oil in it through the break in period. Get 3-5K miles before thinking about synthetic. And drive that puppy! Make her work hard. Lots of gear changes and hard accelerations. (not to red line) Force the rings against the rough bore to smooth them. Keep an eye on temps and check the oil and water often but don't be afraid to pound on it. Good exercise builds muscle. Makes sense, thanks for the money saving advice Mike :P Got it driving now and it's a hell of a motor! Running rough, made a video of the first drive where I talk a little bit about some of my issues, but I've resolved most of them right now, so I'll upload that and let you guys enjoy until I get a down-the-street video. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 To be clear, synthetic is toooo slippery and will prevent or extend the break in period. Break in should be as fast and as soon as possible after original start up. This will seat and seal the rings tightly against the cylinder walls to hold compression before blow by makes it's own path. If you don't change the oil for 500 miles that's not the end of the world but I would spin a new filter on soon before that.. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Got it driving now and it's a hell of a motor! Running rough, made a video of the first drive where I talk a little bit about some of my issues, but I've resolved most of them right now, so I'll upload that and let you guys enjoy until I get a down-the-street video. Still running a 32/36 ?? My L20b with .490 cam had the same cold lope with one. Only ran smooth when I put side drafts on it! Make sure that jetting isnt too lean, don't wanna hurt that new motor! Man Z20 block with 6" rods ?? Love it! Agreed with mike, lots of engine braking for ring load and varying RPM, I ran mine hard and the rings sealed like they should. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 i haz side draft SU mani up FS.... just sayn Quote Link to comment
converted_to_datsun Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Yea you need su's there's no fighting it just give in and drink the coolaid... It's soo good Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 Still running a 32/36 ?? My L20b with .490 cam had the same cold lope with one. Only ran smooth when I put side drafts on it! Make sure that jetting isnt too lean, don't wanna hurt that new motor! Man Z20 block with 6" rods ?? Love it! Agreed with mike, lots of engine braking for ring load and varying RPM, I ran mine hard and the rings sealed like they should. Yessir! I was gonna put the motor off for a little while while I work on finding some better carbs, bit we made a last minuet decision to get it done. This Weber is freaking GARBAGE for HP. I mean, utter shit. I want to toss it in a pile and never look at it again. It got such a huge potential that the crappy carb is holding back. I revved the truck out to about 6K for the first time tonight, and it felt like it was struggling a bit. Probably the tiny venturi's. The Weber 38/38 only goes for about $220 so I might hop on that in a few weeks. i haz side draft SU mani up FS.... just sayn Oh yeah??? How much $$$??? Yea you need su's there's no fighting it just give in and drink the coolaid... It's soo good Yeah man.... see, money lol And I'm allergic to koolaid haha Quote Link to comment
converted_to_datsun Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 I picked up my su's off Craigslist for $60, you just gotta look in the right places. Mine are 38's... You'd probably better got for a bit bigger but even 38's would be better than a webber Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 I'M BACK. After dealing with this thread: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/55992-lz-losing-power-and-overheating/ Got the truck running better then ever. Found a local Amsoil dealer that may be able to get it for the cost of a normal synthetic, so I may be running awesome fluids soon! As far as HP goes though, the reason my L20B only made 52HP was because the throttle cable was binding and wasn't opening the secondary like I though it was. I looked before, but I must have been confused, because I was only getting 3/4 throttle before. The POWER out of this motor is astounding for this like 32/36. I'm surprised at its capability. I can chirp third like it's no ones business. The motor is so robust and makes me soooo happy to put my foot down. More on all that shit later though... _DSC0189 by metalmonkey47, on Flickr _DSC0205 by metalmonkey47, on Flickr _DSC0209 by metalmonkey47, on Flickr _DSC0213 by metalmonkey47, on Flickr _DSC0215 by metalmonkey47, on Flickr _DSC0225 by metalmonkey47, on Flickr _DSC0226 by metalmonkey47, on Flickr 3 Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 How you so low bro? Still needs moar lowar tho... I see space :fu: Great job figuring out your power issue. That had to be annoying esp when you put so much time into this engine. Maybe I'm too fat for std cabs, but how in the world did you fit a box behind the driver's seat? I'm only 6' and had to move my seat back as far as possible. Even removed the mounts so the seat is bolted straight to the floor :P Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 How you so low bro? Still needs moar lowar tho... I see space :fu: Great job figuring out your power issue. That had to be annoying esp when you put so much time into this engine. Maybe I'm too fat for std cabs, but how in the world did you fit a box behind the driver's seat? I'm only 6' and had to move my seat back as far as possible. Even removed the mounts so the seat is bolted straight to the floor :P Mannnn I ain't even that low :fu: Torsion bars out all the way, poly bumpstops, and pinto shocks at the front, 720 leafs at the back with 2'' blocks. DONE. lol dood, true story I made those things by hand and took FOREVER measuring the fitment. PAIN int he ass and even worse with the recaros, but I made that shit work. :) Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Fat people solution to needing a sub: http://soundstream.com/store/car-audio/subwoofers/stealth-13.html Or you can go with these horrid things :P 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Truck is looking fantastic, good to hear you got the bugs worked out. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted June 19, 2013 Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 _DSC0205 by metalmonkey47, on Flickr _DSC0213 by metalmonkey47, on Flickr Is there a make on this camper shell? I totally want it. Quote Link to comment
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