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620 FUNK! **NOW with Stroker!**


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Has that black accent always been there? if you plan on keeping it I think it'd look bomb going all the way down the side of the bed under the hooks.

 I agree, and...Id even entertain trying to duplicate that body line down the bed, with some fabbed metal work all the way down...lots of work of course...and it may take away from true Datsunisk look...but I think it would be different and bad ass/subtle...

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Sorry guys, so I'm back! I ended up picking up a whole dashboard out of a '79 620, complete with factory flashers, headlight switch, wiper switch, etc, crack free bezel, new dash carpet, etc. I also got new hood bumpers, king cab window seals, front valence lights NEW, new re-pro headlight housings and retainer rings, sweet door mirrors, and a few other small things. Stopped by Summit Racing on the way home and picked up the in house brand wideband kit, which happens to use the Innovate LC-1 controller. Worth it for sure! I'll post on that more later though...

 

Pics of busy work...

 

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This guy shipped from Cyprus, and took about 2 months to get. Worth it! I really like it...

 

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I'll be starting bodywork again soon, but this time with an end goal! I'm gonna get the body well sealed for some temporary color, aka plastidip. At least until I get another DD and can gut the body of the truck. It's got some holes to be filled. 

 

They have some pearl and other add-ins that would look pretty cool. 

 

https://www.dipyourcar.com/

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Alright, so i'm gonna start learning how to log AFR's on my LC-1 soon, but it's kind of confusing. I don't know how the LC-1 is supposed to log properly without a tach reference. It logs AFR's fine I'd assume, but it's gotta be hard to read the logs without throttle position or tach reference. 

 

Using the wideband I've learned quite a bit, but my ignorance to jetting is still leaving a little hole. 

 

-Cruising my afr's are about 13-14 ish. Sometimes fluctuating a hair over 14. Seems pretty accurate. 

-Under acceleration I dip WAY down into the 10-12 range (even under normal low load acceleration), which to me seems like it's going to be quite a bit rich, and explains why even as a conservative driver I average about 15-17mpg. Not sure how I could correct this, or even how far from normal that would be. Air jets? Emulsion tubes? 

 

-Idle is about 12.8-13.3 and seems to be pretty consistent there. I do notice after idling a short time at lights it seems like it wants to flood, as my AFR's drop down to low 12's as my revs drop. A little rev, and it sorts out fine for a short bit.

 

   - I have a bit of an idle issue, that until now I had no idea the cause of. After spirited or even slightly harder then normal driving, I'd find that idle was impossible. Before I didn't know why, but now with           the wideband I see it's leaning WAY the fuck out. As the idle drops I see AFR's up to 20+. Just to give you an idea, the O2 reads 21.2 +-.1 to be ambient air in the exhaust pipe. it's leaning WAY the           fuck out.

 

- I need to step up the accelerator pump nozzle 1 size. When transitioning from cruising to heavier throttle I see AFR's jump to 16-17 for  no more then a split second before steadying out. Obviously not enough fuel through the accel pump.

 

 

 

 

Everyone needs to invest in a wide band. I learn SO much! 

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You are losing power at 10:1 in addition to wasting fuel. Maximum power is at 12:1.

 

Cruising should be leaner then 14:1 for maximum economy.

 

Idle should be 14:1 for smoothness or 14.7:1 for emissions. Set the idle mixture screw to Lean Best Idle.

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I'm in the wideband boat myself. I am running the AEM Uego, O2 is stabbed in right after the down pipe curves under the truck. 

 

At an idle... I am running approx 12.3. Under normal driving conditions I can see anywhere between 12.0 - 13.8. Under hard acceleration (on the floor) the lowest I have seen it dip is mid 11's. 

 

I haven't done much more tuning as to I am getting ready to swap to a Weber 45 DCOE. I will spend the tune time when that carb is on. One thing I have noticed is the difference watching the Wideband with the headlight tunnel. With all of the rain right now I keep the tunnel blocked off so it isn't shooting water all over the engine bay. Now with the tunnel open, my hard acceleration will drop into high 10's and into low 11's.

 

I love the use of a wideband myself

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Also interested in the write up GGzilla! 

 

Any suggestions on a wideband? Ive been looking, but I honestly havent been super crazy about spending $300+ on a gauge "/

 

I'm using the Summit Racing brand for $175. It using the Innovate LC1 controller, with a serial out for data logging. If you could get a tach reference for the data logging software you could log AFR's and RPM's for a fairly accurate log.

 

 

 

 

I can gun mine at 2000RPM and see it drop into 9's without any smoke LOL. Cruising for some reason after leaning out the idle circuits is about 13.8-14.6. Under acceleration is about 11.5-13 and it feels GOOD! One thing I can't figure out for the life of me is why it's running so fucking rich at idle. Even  after spinning out the screws nearly all the way it's still high 11's - low 12's. It idles rough around 14:1 and still smells rich as hell.  Idle quality SUCKS with this huge cam. 

I'm about to pull out my Z car SU's and finish building the linkages. I'm just gonna go ahead and run them, and dump the Mikuni money into brakes and coilovers. 

 

And a door hinge. 

 

 

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matt, turning the idle mixture screws out make its more rich on the 38. 

 

try this with the idle screws. turn them all the way in (softly, just till you feel its bottomed out) and then bring it out 1.5 turns on each one. 

 

Simple Rules for low speed calibration

If the mixture screw is more than 11/2  turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too small). When the mixture screw is ½ turn or less, then the Idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 1/2 turn in. If the speed screw has to be opened1/2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. Please understand the need to keep throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes. This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size. JET KITS are available if needed.

 

EXAMPLE     With the idle speed screw set at no more than 1/2 turn in after contact with the stop lever; and the best idle occurring with the idle mixture screw set at 1 1/2 turns from lightly seating, indicates the need for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at less than 1/2 turn indicates the need for a smaller idle jet.

 

 

see what you have for idle the, and do like mike said. put the idle where its the smoothest, but still low so its not just free revving all the time. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Also interested in the write up GGzilla! 

 

 

I'm using the Summit Racing brand for $175. It using the Innovate LC1 controller, with a serial out for data logging. If you could get a tach reference for the data logging software you could log AFR's and RPM's for a fairly accurate log.

 

 

 

 

 

I can gun mine at 2000RPM and see it drop into 9's without any smoke LOL. Cruising for some reason after leaning out the idle circuits is about 13.8-14.6. Under acceleration is about 11.5-13 and it feels GOOD! One thing I can't figure out for the life of me is why it's running so fucking rich at idle. Even  after spinning out the screws nearly all the way it's still high 11's - low 12's. It idles rough around 14:1 and still smells rich as hell.  Idle quality SUCKS with this huge cam. 

I'm about to pull out my Z car SU's and finish building the linkages. I'm just gonna go ahead and run them, and dump the Mikuni money into brakes and coilovers. 

 

And a door hinge. 

 

Had an old school (DATSUN) tuner set my idle.

 

He sat there for a minute with a screwdriver with his ear up to the carbs. 11.5:1.  

 

Idle around ~850-1000rpm depending on the carb.  On my 32/36 I let it idle at 1100 with 490 lift.

I usually set mine around 12:1-13:1.   Big cam has low vacuum at idle, he said leave it rich to prevent pinging.

Mine doesn't matter cause stock compression and 91 california mix. 

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