datsunfreak Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 Quote from Hainz...... but alwasy gap the ring!!!!!!!!!!!!! Built 50+ engines and never gapped them until recently. Never heard of a failure... Not saying you shouldn't, just saying it doesn't mean guaranteed failure... ;) Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 Of course, one has to remember that Ryan put that motor together :P Nice pic Pac :D Quote Link to comment
Cruzn620 Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 do you guys have "aero-kroil" out west? we use it here in the plant and it makes WD-40 look like super glue. it is made in nashville, TN, so i didnt know if you guys had seen it out there or not. it is mainly used in industrial settings, but you can order it online (do a search) since aerokroil is "the oil that creeps" it might free up those pistons! true story though: back in my high school days (not that far back) we were really big into building honda motors, mainly ZC stuff. we got a long block ZC that was locked up, took the head off of it, poured marvels in all the barrells and let it sit for a week, dumped the oil out of the barrels, put a breaker bar on the motor and broke it free by hand....we put the thing back together, got it freaking running, then sold it to another honda guy at school. i have no idea how many miles it made it after that, but he never came back wanting his money back or to kill us. we were all firm believers in marvel after that! Quote Link to comment
bluemeanie Posted October 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 ***Updates**** Well I got the new L20b stripped down to inspect the bearings. Figured if i had it down this far I might as well pull the pistons and crank and tank the block to make it nice. Went out and got some new main and rod bearings and a complete engine gasket set. Once I get it all purdy and clean I'll paint the block and start the reassembly. Pics to come! Quote Link to comment
73super Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Quote from Hainz...... but alwasy gap the ring!!!!!!!!!!!!! you or the machine shop(I know they do this) Ryan a other datsun owner did his himself but never gap the rings and the top of the piston ring lands broke off. Expansion Heres that very piston being held by Ryan...Bleach looks amused :D Good luck on the 620 meanie...easy to repair & fun to drive ! Holy crap! That guy on the left looks like my Pastor!?! Rev.. is that you???:eek: Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 He's far from holy...believe me...:lol: Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Holy crap! That guy on the left looks like my Pastor!?! Rev.. is that you???:eek: Ryan doesn't normally look like that... its a weird shot of him :blink: Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 do you guys have "aero-kroil" out west? we use it here in the plant and it makes WD-40 look like super glue. We can get it in Washington State at approx $12 a can :eek: Big discussion regarding it and Winzer last year on the Bluebirds list. The users said it was da kine blowin' WD40 and PB Blaster away. Haven't tried either myself. Quote Link to comment
spiffinspudater Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 Quote from Hainz...... but alwasy gap the ring!!!!!!!!!!!!! you or the machine shop(I know they do this) Ryan a other datsun owner did his himself but never gap the rings and the top of the piston ring lands broke off. Expansion Heres that very piston being held by Ryan...Bleach looks amused :D Good luck on the 620 meanie...easy to repair & fun to drive ! SO THAT IS WHAT BLEACH LOOKS LIKE!!! I dont think I have seen a picture with him pointed out in it. This is the 5 years or whatever that I have been into my 620 and he had bleach garage... I think it was hosted on a free server when I first saw it! Haha. Matching faces to screen names... gotta love it! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 Didn't you recognize the eyebrows from the avitar?:D Quote Link to comment
bluemeanie Posted October 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 Here's my L20 The block is off getting Cleaned and should be done this weekend. May be a little overkill for just a engine to get me by, but i will have less then $150 into it. Tomarrow i'll work on cleaning the oil pan and degreasing all the parts in the back of the truck. I need to find somone with a square port head that i can buy. There has to be one out there for me. Quote Link to comment
kiznook Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 where'd you take the block? you could always port out the square port exhaust manifold, but you might be able to find someone with an A87 or other square port hopefully closed chamber head. Looks like you're really getting things done, good to see this one get saved! Quote Link to comment
spiffinspudater Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 There is a square port on ebay... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 bluemeannie, Put together a step by step assemble and save it. All my blocks had to get rebored(so machine shop puts the lowers together w/ARP bolts) so I dont know if your really going to Mic the pistons or say hell with it and just rering it with stock rings. I think youll be fine. Since this a is a low cost project. I buy the nissan side seals 12289-W0400(by the main Rear seal block Cap) which are 1 pc and go in eitherway. Most other kits are 2 pc and I forget how they go in but think the metal pc goes on the inner side to push the seal outward of the block. I invented the rising sun hood while you were still in diapers! Who did that!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
bluemeanie Posted October 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 I'll have to take some pics on the rebuild. The mains and rod journals look great so new bearings and some plasti-guage will fix that up. The bore's look good considering its been rollin around in the bed of a truck for a while enduring the weather. Should be able to have a short block done this weekend and get the head situation ready next week. I was gonna see if anyone ever pulls out the exhaust liners on the round port heads or it its complicated. I havent even looked at the head much since i pulled it. I'll be using all stock rod bolts and stuff on this build. The only thing i'll measure is end play on the crank, bearing clearance, and bolt torques. (oh) and counting the minuites till i can do a nice little burnout! :) I'll snap some pics, so wish me luck. Quote Link to comment
Figbuck Posted October 27, 2007 Report Share Posted October 27, 2007 When I rebuilt my L16, I got advice from an old racer that did the machine work for me and looked everything over, got me parts to put it back together and answered my questions when I encountered problems. I also got advice from a guy that was the parts manager at the local Nissan dealership. He raced Z cars and 510s for years in SCCA competition and built a lot of engines. Between the two of them I built a really strong running engine. The parts manager told me to throw away all the main bearing bolts and the connecting rod big end bolts. He said that they are "true stretch bolts" meaning that they are meant to be be torqued one time only. He said that after working on the top end to make more HP, that they started to lose bottom ends, so they started to use main bearing bolts from the deisel block. The gas engine bolts were torqued to 35FP and the deisels were torqued to 65FP. The cost difference was like $8. He said that they never lost a bottom end after that no matter what they did to make it breath. I got 50K miles of abuse so far for what ever that's worth. Does what the parts guy told me sound right?? Quote Link to comment
OL YELLER Posted October 27, 2007 Report Share Posted October 27, 2007 Don't know if it sounds right, but i had a guy at Montclair (Calif) Nissan tell me almost the same thing about 4 years ago...sold me the bolts and of course, i have no idea if they were the "GOOD bolts" or what, but, my L16 in Ol Yeller is goin on 30K with no problems...Hmmmmmmmmm, maybe there is truth here?(lookin for numbers on my old receipts...can't find anything yet...) Quote Link to comment
bluemeanie Posted October 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2007 Well here are a few updates. I got the engine cleaned and all painted up. Never seen the inside of a engine so clean. I tossed in the main bearings and it looks like i got the right ones. I still need to clean up the crank so I can throw that in and check the bearing clearance I'd like to clean my rods, but i dont want to take the pistons off of the end:blink:. My cleaner is a bit harsh on aluminum so maybe i'll just clean the caps and call it good. Man i'm a hack! Quote Link to comment
tnip Posted October 28, 2007 Report Share Posted October 28, 2007 i wouldn't even dream of calling you a hack. i've got a pretty good L16 that just needs a couple days of focused work and i'm on the verge of scraping up a few hundred bucks to buy a junker so i can just bolt in another motor... ha. you're cleaning and rebuilding a motor that has the potential to keep the rig on the road for another 40 years. my hat's off to you sir. Quote Link to comment
kiznook Posted October 28, 2007 Report Share Posted October 28, 2007 I knew that you could give that motor a good home! looks great, where'd you have it tanked? how much? Quote Link to comment
bluemeanie Posted October 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2007 I threw it in the trunk of my car to take it with me to work to call around and get it tanked during the day when i was working, but after I called around the cheapest place wanted 30 bucks and 2 days, so I went and got a gallon of super purple degreaser and went to town. So the total was about six bucks and a hour and a half of scrubin. I dont see how much cleaner a tank would have gotten it. I even cleaned the oil passages. The only place I couldnt get to well was the water jackets, but there not that bad. Quote Link to comment
bluemeanie Posted October 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2007 Updates!! Here is a pic after the cylinders were honed and wiped clean. At this point i'm getting ready to throw the main bearings in and put the crank in. I had already dropped the crank in with dry bearing to check the bearing clearance I ended up with .0025 to .003 bearing clearance on the mains, so i'm doing good. Here is what plaste-guage looks like if you've never used it. Just make sure you check it with dry bearings. The slight oil film on the journal or other side bearing will give you a .0005 to .001 film that will throw off your measurement. Your right about these seals, They suck, but i found if i put a slight bead of "the right stuff" sealant in the corners of the bearing cap then install these there is no way they can leak. After that the last thing was to install the bearings lubed up with assembly lube and torque the mains. It turns real nice and smooth. I'm working on cleaning up my rods and pistons. There next. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 29, 2007 Report Share Posted October 29, 2007 LOOKS GREAT Great write up!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
bluemeanie Posted October 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2007 Thanks, its gettin there. Hopefully I have the pistons in tonight and the bottom end done. Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted October 29, 2007 Report Share Posted October 29, 2007 Thanks, its gettin there. Hopefully I have the pistons in tonight and the bottom end done. Geeze I feel like a total dolt when it comes to this stuff! Heck I was proud of myself for rebuilding a Master Cylinder last night! I am gonna sit in the corner with my dunce cap now. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.