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Figbuck last won the day on March 24 2010

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About Figbuck

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 06/15/1952

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  • Location
    Portland, Oregon
  • Cars
    '73 620 that I bought new.
  • Interests
    Jazz music, Saxophones, Blues music, Guitars.
  • Occupation
    I've been a licensed contractor since '81 and specialize in finish carpentry & woodworking projects.

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  1. Saturday December 21, 2019 In few minutes we will officially be into Winter. The days will start to get longer again. This year will be a good memory finally. Even though I got chewed up and spit out a couple times… I'm still alive… and had a fantastic amount of fun. Coming up on 47 years now... the old 620 is still in service as my daily driver. After neglecting it, just driving it into the ground again, I couldn't put maintenance off anymore. I was racing a girl in a BMW on the freeway in the middle of the night, when I floated a couple valves and spit out #3 rocker-arm-pivot- guide. I rebuilt this engine a hundred thousand miles ago... and have been winding the fuck out of it since 1990! Aluminum Head Rebuilders in SE Portland did a flawless job on my head. I tried to block the timing chain and remove the cam gear, but the cam chain tensioner popped out. I had to pull the front cover off and change out the both timing gears, timing chain, chain guides and tensioner. Working in a dirty dark carport sucks! I should have pulled all the timing kit even though it was all in good shape. I should have pulled the oil pan too, but I was trying to put it back together quickly a possible. In the end, I had a tiny oil pan leak right at the joint between the timing cover and the front of the block. Even though I cleaned it and gooped the hell out of that spot on both sides. I'm re-torque the head and cam towers after another tank of gas. Then I pulled the oil pan to hopefully find the lost rocker arm guide and a couple chunks of cam lobe that broke off. Mostly just ground up metal. I changed the oil pan gasket then. hahah It runs great making good power and idles perfectly. The short version is; I had my L16 head worked on by Aluminum Head Rebuilders in SE Portland. New cam, bearings, timing set. I put on a new oil pan gasket too, so no leaks. New ABS/aluminum radiator, new AutoMeter tach. New hoses, clamps, cleaned everything, pulled my heater apart again, new hoses, cleaned and fixed everything. I forgot to torque the plugs tight, plus I smeared a ton assembly lube all over the cylinder walls, so it didn't want to fire right off. I pulled both the carb and distributer running... so I should be able to bolt them up and have it run. The head was milled a very small amount, plus new timing gears and chain seemed to be making it run retarded. I moved the distributer more retarded and it began to stall... I turned to advance it, so it ran in time. I threw a timing light on it and set it to 9 degrees. It runs and idles good. I'll burn another tank and then re-torque the cam towers and head bolts, adjust the valves. Then set the dist. dwell and time it with a tachometer. RIDE FAST & TAKE CHANCES... Last Summer, I had a tree branch break my windshield while I was parked on the street. Insurance got a new one. I took apart my windshield wiper mechanism, made new parts and neoprene booties to keep rain from washing the lube out of the wiper arm shaft. Fixed the washer system too. It's great to be able to see at night and in the rain… in the rain at night!! Since I converted to 4 wheel Hitachi brakes, I never service them, so new pads and new master. Bled brakes and clutch. Changed my transmission and rear-end fluids. Then I took a 1,600 mile trip to California. Ran strong, no problems, burns some oil and gas milage is down to 20/21 mpg. I needed to go back to make sure my dist dwell and timing are set right. Right as I came back, I had two really close calls a week apart where I burned #13 & #14 of my nine cat lives. Scary shit. Almost got hit head on… then I almost hit a homeless guy on the freeway at 2 AM. Also my stock Hitachi Carb stopped idling right. I put on an identical spare that ran, but had the same problem with the accelerator pumps. I had a rebuild,kit but no desire to spend a day on rebuilding one, or both of them. I bought a new Webber 32/26 kit from California Datsun, then spent a couple days making it work. I had to get towed home one night because the little bolts that hold the carb to the manifold adaptor came loose causing a huge vacuum leak. It was dark and raining hard, I couldn't see and called AAA. The Weber is not getting good milage. but I haven't rechecked dwell and timing. I might need to re-jet the carb too. But it runs strong, the choke works, good cold starts, but I'm not real happy with how it starts warm. If there is a trick, I haven't found it. I had to install a breather hose filter canister vent thingy, too that I'm not really happy about. The other project I did took six months for me just to get parts. The short version; I spent about a grand for all new front suspension and steering components from Greece, Cyprus, Mexico, Singapore... and other stuff from the parts counter at the local Nissan dealer. It was about a thousand bucks to have a Suspension and Brake shop install the King-Pins, the rest of the bushings and steering components, then align the steering. Finally, I found a fifth chrome Pathfinder wheel for a spare tire, that matches my wheels… so I could get five new 225-50-15 SUV tires… and have the wheels aligned. It runs down the road really well now, and handles like a sports car. Feels great going through twisty back roads and stops great from high speeds on the freeway. It's like it handles better than it ever has! Four wheel discs and 225 x 15s... I still have a bunch of projects like seat, dash, some more rewiring, but for now it's running. I found and fixed four spots where the cab was leaking and leak proofed the camper too. I cleaned it out and have good sleeping bags, insulated sleeping pad and a plastic bin of camping gear. I put together a really good tool kit to handle almost anything out on the road, and some critical Datsun spares too. One thing I have not been able to get sorted out is a new laptop. I'm still on this ancient hand-me -down MacBook Pro that doesn't work on lots of web stuff. I wish I could link photos and videos, but I just can't make it happen. Here is some Ratsun YouTube stuff… I hope it works…
  2. For me the first thing to fail is that neoprene bellows sealing the pump shaft. I got a Hygrade brand rebuild kit # 1513A, from Napa Auto I think. It was two years ago, $55.00. It seems like you can get the kits from Amazon for $25 and shipping. The problem was that I didn't understand to order the kit with the float. There is another part number for the kit with a float and then a separate part number for just the float parts. I thought I would build it last summer... but I ran a spare carb until that neoprene bootie thing rots and tears. I never got a new float. Have heard stories about sinking floats but have never had mine fail. I rebuilt my OEM carb with one of these kits and ran it for 50K mi before I put an identical carb that had been removed nearly new, replaced by a Weber. It took all day and was tedious but i had good instructions from Colin Messer's book, "How to Keep Your Nissan/Datsun Alive"... and the instructions in the kit has good blow up diagrams. Never got around to rebuilding one of them or even taking the accelerator pump out of the kit and changing it out by itself. I got a Weber 32-36 a few weeks ago. I'm still working on getting it set up right. Don't like the air cleaner and breather vent, need to tweak that. Runs great, starts, idles and more power too. Haven't checked gas milage yet but it seems ok as long as I don't floor it. It seems like it might be worth getting a rebuild kit just for the new accelerator pump? Here is a link to carb stuff I just listed; https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/d/portland-datsun-carbs-air-cleaner/6973499465.html
  3. No. I did try to hold the throttle wide open and start it as if it was flooded. I though the same thing Mike suggested. No dice. Now that I got it running and tuned; Turn ignition key to power choke. Pump gas once to set choke linkage. Turn starter, engine starts and idles about 1100, 1200 rpm. Wait a bit then tap the throttle and the choke resets. Runs pretty good cold it think. Idles at 850 900 once it warms up. Accelerates great! Makes good power through out the rev range. I'm going to have to resist the urge to wind it out all the time! hahaha FontSize Or in my case maybe wiring to the dist short or open. No It was running, I looked everything over and ruled ignition out. I fooled with this for three days. When I got frustrated, I quit and did something else. I knew I was going to figure this out and it would some stupid simple... I'm going to fell like an idiot. But, you called it too Wayne! One of the problems was crap in the Idle Mixture screw. Pulled it to inspect, re-seated it them back it out 2 turns... started running badly... but it started and ran. In the end my girlfriend who used to run the office for a Jaguar shop said, Oh that's a Vacuum leak! With no hesitation. So I tried to think back to installing the new carb a couple weeks ago. The installation guide said to use thread lock on intake manifold threads. I remember thinking does that mean, apply thread lock to the nuts holding the carb body too? Nah... really? I thought no. I cranked the fuck outta those little nuts I thought. I didn't want to strip the intake manifold, and could see cracking the base to the carb! It did occur to me a few times to check that they were still torqued down. Somehow I never did that, chasing other things that might cause the symptom. Shit. When she said Vac Leak, the first thing I did was see if the studs were tight. Studs were thread locked, but all 4 nuts were a turn, or turn and a half loose. Fixed that and fired right off. Set Idle Speed, Idle Mixture, Fast Idle and the Choke Spring. Starts, runs, idles. Now the problem I'm having is as i hooked breather vent back up... it is totally fucking with the choke operation and carb in general . I saw a YouTube video of a guy who put a webber on a Mazda truck... he had what I assumed is a canister mounted on the firewall in between the valve cover and the air cleaner. I don't think I have ever seen this set-up on a Datsun... anybody run a breather filter?
  4. I have been driving the new carb for a couple weeks. I had to tweak the idle spring tension & idle speed screw a few times to get 850 or 900 rpm. It seems like I got the linkages working right. I set the Idle Speed Screw 1 1/2 turns in, making sure the linkage was completely closed. The Idle mixture screw got set a little less than two turns out. It was driving around fine. I re-set the choke, checked the Primary Idle screw so it was snug but not binding. I checked that the wire I used for the Choke is hot and switched by the ignition key. I drove ten miles over streets, on and off the freeway, when all of a sudden it stalled at a stop light. Started again, but had to keep the throttle a little open to keep running. In a half mile, it started stalling as I gave it gas, like as the secondary opened up, it flooded or ran lean. It would only run badly on part throttle, wouldn't idle. wouldn't accelerate. Finally died and wouldn't start again. Dark, raining, no tools. Got towed home. I have gone through the carb set up procedure a dozen times. Checked gas flow and filter. Good battery that cranks like mad. Cleaned & gapped the plugs. The two outside plugs looked tan, the two inside were a little oiled, don't think it's flooding. All 4 nuts securing the carb to the base plate were loose. I thought, perfect, that is what it is! It's like a vac leak, more throttle, more vacuum, more air leak. But no. I stuck my old carbs in the Weber box took then to the storage building... Redline/Weber customer service hot line will talk to me, but not without telling them the production code number stamped on the box... It tries to fires for a few revs but won't run. It fires for the first few revolutions, like it's wants to start... it's trying to start. But it just cranks and cranks, like the distributer wire is disconnected. Come back after a while and the same thing, it kinda wants to fire, but then just spins... I've been through the basic carb set-up procedure a dozen times. Idle speed screw, Idle mixture screw, choke spring tension and fast idle screw. Any ideas?
  5. Finally after wasting a bunch of time, the choke plates and their linkage were jammed shut. It's a brand new Carb, I didn't want to force anything. I loosened the adjustment screw for the choke shaft/step plate, and loosened the choke ring so I could rotate it freely... the choke plates did not rotate on their shaft. WTF? it was so choked that even when I poured gas in it it didn't fire. I thought if it warmed up the choke would open?? I kept thinking it was electrical, sounded like loose coil/dist wire... no sparking. Fuck, I knew it had to be something simple. But I wasn't understanding how or why this shit was stuck. It was running when it got shut off? Why can't I open the choke mechanism? This sucks. I suck my finger on the primary plate and pushed, thinking... this is out of frustration and so wrong... but pop, the linkage freed itself. It seemed like the choke plates were stuck in the throttle body and not the linkage binding. But I can not make them stick again! Made sure all the throttle linkage was tight and put the choke in the middle of it's range. Saw gas spraying into the primary. Fired it off first time. Idles great @ 850, crisp throttle response, great acceleration. Wow, happy guy finally after wasting a nice afternoon and blowing an appointment. Now we will see what kind of gas milage we get... What should i do about the breather vent in the valve cover? Route it into the base of the carb with the plastic fitting fitting supplied? The stock air cleaner had the valve cover vent before the filter. This would be after the filter and directly into the carb. What needs to go on here?
  6. 1973 620 with L16 ran OK for all these years with stock emissions and stock carb. I had two Hitachi carbs that I have rebuilt once each. Finally, I they are too much trouble to fool with anymore, the accelerator pumps need to be replaced... and I even have an unopened rebuild kit to do it. I ordered a Weber 32/36 DEGV kit from California Datsun for $325 including shipping. Was delivered in 6 days. It was pretty straight forward to put the adapter plate on and hook up the throttle linkage. It was a little tedious to re bend the stock metal fuel line and re-connect the short section of fuel hose. Hooked up Vac Advance, connected the choke to 12v switched. plugged the evap return line to the fuel tank. It cranked a few times before it finally got fuel, then fired off in pops and starts. The third crank it ran as I blipped the throttle... I thought it was going to die becasue the throttle stop seemed way low. But it ran at like 500 rpm... and idled like a sewing machine cold. I was blown away. I bumped up the throttle stop to 900-1000 and realized the choke was working. I took it for a spin, runs great. Adjusted the idle mixture, then the throttle stop back to 800. It started, ran and idled fine... running great on short 5 and 10 mile errands over three days. I just tried to start it and it cranks forever, but no fire. It was running great when I shut it off. I seems like it is not getting fuel. The choke plates are completely closed. I don't know how to open them... not going to force anything. tried to pour gas into over the choke plate on the primary a couple times... not firing. Seems amost electrical no spark, but all the distributor and pug wires are tight. Pulled #2 plug, no gas on it really. not fouled. I think it is not getting fuel. when I cycle the throttle, I don't hear fuel spray, don't real;y smell gas evaporating after pumping the throttle either. Cant' see into the throttle body. I loosened the choke ring and wiggled it and reseated it in the middle of it's adjustment range. Seems like the choke plates are being held completely shut, no gap. Why or how did the choke plates get stuck shut. Why doesn't the choke open the plates as it warms up or is cooled down and disconnected?
  7. Time Left: 9 days and 11 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Was my spare. Tire is a 195 Dunlop radial with pretty good tread left. I'm In SW Portland on the Beaverton border, like Raliegh Hills


  8. I run a 60 amp IR alt listed for L20 720 trucks, in my '73 L16. It is really tight, but doable if you keep fucking with it. The first one I got out of a Pathfinder @ P 'n P, for $25, just to figure out how to lose the voltage regulator, and clean up the wiring looms. '73, I don't have the radiator core "bump out" that was used in the L20 trucks, but the straight core support. I got a new ABS plastic and Aluminum radiator listed as a replacement for L20 trucks, and was able to mount it so the bottom hose outlet doesn't hit the alt/pulley/fan. Had to take a die grinder to the top of the alternator too, so the adjust arm goes in a notch. hahaha tight little fan belt, but when the junk yard alt died... an easy twenty minute swap for a new $119 one from the auto parts store. So fuggin' broke I didn't want to blow a hundred bucks on a new one... and not be able to jam it in there. Sheeit. But it works great, lights, heater/defroster, stereo, all on at the same time. I read on one of these alternator swap thread where there is a 65 amp alternator available over the counter, listed for L16 510s... with air conditioning. Same physical size as the 35 amp L16 alts. But I never could find them. Why can't a bracket be modified of fabricated to run 110 amp alternator on the drivers side? Seems like a ton of room? Anybody tried it? Got OICS??
  9. "Part # 56112-W5000 is the rubber bushing isolator used on the top mount of the HL510, 210, S110 and the B110 Sentra rear shock absorbers. Looks just like the ones used on sway bars. Might interchange." Just had all the suspension and steering gone through. Replaced King Pins, all the control arm bushings, all the sway bar bushings and the Tension Rod Bushings... then aligned with the Hunter system. These stock bushings are the right application on early 620s. Look identical to the ones that came off... except they were smashed flat... hard to see how they were working as designed. They don't look anything like Frank Rizzo's OICS of Made in China bushing kit. They are a solid donut shape, with a little rib around the middle. I just came across a quote sheet from NAPA, for these bushings for a Sentra, that are quality brand... $24. Not $58 from the Nissan dealer.
  10. I picked up my truck this morning from Ron's Front End. The labor bill was $1295.00. Parts $910.00. Labor for tie rod ends, steering arms, $105... new swaybar bushings $65... outer, both upper and lower control arm bushings $210... Inner, both upper and lower control arm links $500... R & R King Pin bushing kit $210, plus $95 machine shop service... finally, alignment work $105. I brought it in Tuesday Morning and It was ready at the end of Thursday. Ron quoted me $105 per hour shop time. It drives like new obviously. The manager Robert did some of the work and said the steering box still had adjustment left. He said it may need to be tweaked in a while, he hesitates to crank on it. I said, "Sounds like the voice of experience." He goes, "Yeah, I have been responsible for slaughtering more than a few 620s... cut them up, notch the frame and slam them on the ground... heh, heh, heh." I looked at the old bushings and upper inner links spindles... they were toast. I'm glad I was patient enough to keep searching E-bay for replacements. I wonder where the package I waited fifteen weeks for, that never showed up... where it ended up? The last ones on earth to be found... lost in the Mexican Post Office!!! The Elgin Made in USA King Pin Bushing kit I got from Rare Parts for $215 inc. shipping. Delivered in three days. I could have got Made in Japan new old stock from sellers in Singapore for half that shipped in about 18 days. A special thanks to Mike Klotz @ Bluehandsfabrication.com for the upper outer control arm urethane bushing kit! I'm pretty happy how things turned out. I had the King Pins done in 1990 for about $900 at a 4x4 shop in Redwood City. It was about 120K mi. ago. If I would have had any idea how hard it was to replace all this stuff... I would have lubed all the steering and control arm links & bushings more regularly!!! If all this suspension work lasts me another 17 or 18 years and 100K mi. I will be 85 years old... 368,000 miles. Next, is new tires and quick Spring road trip to California.
  11. "Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM.... "Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM.... "Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM.... "Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM.... "Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM.... "Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM.... "Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM...."Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM...."Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM...."Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM....
  12. Figbuck

    Frontier rims

    uhh, correct me if I'm wrong, but later stock nissan 6 lugs are not 6 x 108.9 but, 6 x 4.5. Have you shopped for 14" tires yet? No problem finding name-brand tires if you want to spend $600 for "hot rod" tires. I finally ditched my 14" wheels when it got impossible to find used tires. There are way more options for less expensive 15" & 16"s new, and I always see used sets of tires for $200 mounted and balanced. I got some American Racing 5 lug steelies back in the '70s, much like those 8 spoke Bajas. I sanded them well, shot epoxy primer on them and then satin black Rustoleum. Whenever I washed my truck, I shot a fresh coat of Rustoleum, always stylin'.
  13. I went to the Nissan dealer, they found the old micro-fish and printed exploded diagrams for the 620 72.5 - 78, front end for me. The tension rod bushing part numbers had been replaced a couple times but, the bushing is still available in the current parts computer as a 10 piece bag of bushings for a B210 or something. Part # 56112-W5000 BUSH-SHO 1000 The bag of ten was $58.20. Ordered a noon, parts guy called me at 10am the next day.
  14. It depends on how wide your tires are. I used 1/4" spacers on the rear because it looked like the sidewalls might hit the leaf springs. But when I mounted them up there was what seemed like plenty of room, maybe an inch. I thought maybe I didn't need to add the spacer after all, but I'm not looking at the side wall when it under load going around a clover leaf at 55mph and hitting a pot hole. The cool thing that I noticed right away was that the steering became quicker. The front wheels take a set in corners without having to tug on the wheel to rotate through the apex... no "push". The steering seems very neutral when I'm out in the hills blasting through through the twistys, like the rear wheels want to follow the front without feeling a loose condition. 1974 is exempt from Smog inspections in California? My friend live over in West Davis. He is alway telling me about all the Datsun he sees in Excramento. haha You are in a great place to hit the junk yards, craigslit, OfferUp.com etc. Both those trucks look worth working on. Prolly wouldn't have thought that ten years ago... both donor trucks!!! What's funny is I have seen in the last two weeks... nice clean, running well when pulled, with some nice parts on them,... are L16s with transmissions... even one with a 5speed already on it! $500!! Each guy was doing a KA swap!! Gimme five hundred bucks and git this thing outta my garage! hahaha Here is a link to download that might help; http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/FSM-Datsun-Pick-Up-1977.pdf Look at the stickies in General Discussion, there are a bunch of links to Service Manuals and your wiring diagram. This is good stuff if you haven't seen it; http://www.davidcmurphy.com/olddat/620tech.htm Also; https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Your-Datsun-Nissan-Alive/dp/0912528656 I thought the '74 model year started L18s and had the bump-out radiator support? This truck has the L16? Straight radiator support? Is it a late '73 model... like in the 1972 year I bought a Desert Tan 521 with L16 and all kinds of California emissions pump garbage. Then '72 and a half was the first Bullet-side 620s with L16. I bought my truck through a California dealer who registered it for me because I lived in California, but took delivery of in Virginia, so it is a 49 State version with Dual Points and other stock carb related emissions stuff... but no air pump and evap-canisters. It was all original and passed the sniffer with flying colors, so I never had any problems before the exemption rules. It's still pretty stock except converted to matchbox distributer & eliminated the voltage regulator, cleaned up the wiring looms. Items very high on the list of 620 upgrades for a reliable daily driver... and not that hard to do. In hindsight, when I banged all the dents out of my truck and painted it, I should have cut the later bump-out out of my '77 donor truck, ... then welded it into my '73. I just bought a new aluminum and ABS radiator from the Mac's Radiator, it was listed as replacement for L20B engines. Really nice, very light but sturdy. I had to relocate all 4 mounting holes on the steel radiator flange, to reuse the existing bolt holes. I tried to slide it as much to the passenger side as possible for that lower pretzel hose to clear my alternator pulley/fan. I run the internally regulated stock Hitachi 60amp listed for L20/720s. It is a larger unit and even with the very smallest fan belt, it's really tight. Lower radiator hose is zip tied to the frame for 1/2" clearance! With the bump-out I wouldn't have these issues. I have been thinking about modifying an existing bracket or fabricating a new one, so that I can run a 110 amp alternator off the driver's side of the engine. Plenty of space it looks like. Why isn't isn't this a common Ratsun hack? Anybody ever do it... seen it done... seen blurry dark phone OICS of an alt on the other side?
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