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Figbuck

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Figbuck last won the day on March 24 2010

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About Figbuck

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 06/15/1952

Profile Information

  • Location
    Portland, Oregon
  • Cars
    '73 620 that I bought new.
  • Interests
    Jazz music, Saxophones, Blues music, Guitars.
  • Occupation
    I've been a licensed contractor since '81 and specialize in finish carpentry & woodworking projects.

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  1. Hell yes. Step one, procedure one; Measure the distance between the lock nuts and write it down. I think... refresh my memory, I just did this twice with my donor truck too; 15 5/16"??? 15 3/8"?? I found a OEM 620 jack in a dumpster years ago, I have two identical jacks behind my seat. I can put the front end in the air very quickly. Remember to have the truck where you need it to be, because when the link is gone it is a bitch to move. I think I had to put it back in once to move it!
  2. I ain't that clever. Especially with the '73 model there is no radiator bump out. It's a tight fit, but I did it by myself. It was scary, no lie. I didn't use a primer. I think it said two light costs our until you achive hide. But I did use PPG Metal Cleaner and neutralizing conditioners, after I prepped the block with abrasive wheels on a die grinder. I think the trick is rigging the engine at 5%, so the transmission input shaft is parallel to the clutch. You should feel it hit the pilot bushing, then, stop when it hits the end of the crank. a little solid thunk. If y
  3. It's my truck and I like blue. Duplicolor, don't put it on to thick. Goes good with Rusoleum satin Midnight Blue... So you didn't have it bored? What did the machine shop do... or are supposed to be doing?
  4. Did you get pistons? Is the machinist supplying you pistons, rings and bearings?
  5. Something that caused me issues was the Oil Pressure Sender. I wish I would have bought a new sender unit for my Auto-Meter oil pressure gauge... and made sure the threads in the block were the right ones... or else, tapped new threads before I "boiled" the block clean. The stock idiot light has a different thread pitch than most of the sending units. I know there are a ton of little things to remember and do, but this item can save you grief just as you want to get finished and fire it off!
  6. I'm late to this; I would have plastigauged the con rod journals... see how much wear and any differences. When you go to put SDT bearings back in it good practice to Plastigauge them. It talks about that in the book. If they look OK, serviceable, leave the mains alone, pop the pistons out to see what the coolant did to the upper ring lands. Are there ring pieces missing, ring missing? Ring lands damaged? If the piston is not fractured in anyway, i would think about getting new rings and con rod bearings... call it good. Correct me if I'm off here; The cost
  7. Hey Don! I've been meaning to call you now that I'm mobile again. There is a small box of parts, some of the fixed window trim pieces and the factory jack... other small stuff can't remember. It's at Laurel's where I'm still working on stuff. I have a couple of nice 620 fuse blocks with the plug, and one with out, in my storage unit. There might be a cover too, but not in great shape. I also have the variable speed switch and both plugs, with the nuts, washer and plastic bushing for dash mount... I just came across in a box of 620 junk. You are welcome to anything you can use... T
  8. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    I think it might be easier to get another header. I'm striking out finding a flange for that '73 square port header, can find them for L20 and some other Datsun applications. I remembered that Mike Klots made some exhaust flanges a wile back, but on his web-site he put a link to somebody who wanted to take over making them, or make down tubes for them. I sent an E-mail. On the subject of new exhaust and headers; I know there aren't big power gains from aftermarket headers, but I'm wondering what size exhaust pipe would you use on a L20?
  9. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    I need a new exhaust system so I took it to Exhaust Specialties in Beaverton. The mechanic said the flange on the pipe was too thin to weld to. I also noticed the 4 into two collector is hitting the corner of the block. I guess a 3/4" taller block pulled it up. I cranked down on the new exhaust studs pretty hard, but not so hard somebody has to fight them when they go to work on it. He noticed that the header to the collector joint was leaking around the new gasket. Any suggestions?
  10. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    Hainz, I wish I would have watched that while I had it on the stand. I watched it a few times years ago. I forgot about your videos, but mostly I have been out at the farm, glad to have electricity form a 150 extension cord. No running water, no internet. It would have been fantastic to watch your videos as I was in the process. You are probably right. I didn't need to take the timing cover back off, but a new gasket set is $13. I did fixed some things where I didn't like the way they turned out on the timing cover. But going through the process again, I realized I set the cam spr
  11. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    It's apart now. Just drove back into town to get parts and stuff. L20 gasket kit was $13 and will be here after 2:00. Yeah, somehow the chain must have slipped a couple notches on the crank... but what's weird is that there is a place in the cycle where the timing marks lined up! But it doesn't run, I fucked up somehow. I did learn something. I made a jig/fixture out of a piece of aluminum shelf bracket, !" x 5" x 1/8" thick, to keep the flywheel from turning when I torqued it on. I used the same piece of metal, using one hole and drilled another hole the size of the bolts that fa
  12. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    Thanks for the input. I'm going to rent a van in a few minutes, so I can run for parts and stuff, go back out to the farm for a couple days. I'm really burned out from this, dozens of hours cleaning and fixing stuff. I'm going to get a big table set up so I can drain the fluids and take it apart really fast. At least I don't have to clean that much. I'm dreading having to take the crank pulley off again, but I have never been able to move the timing chain with a block. I'll order new timing gaskets and do it over. Half the time the tensioner comes out and unless the oil pan
  13. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    Right, my cam sprocket is set just like that, you can see the index mark... but what I'm saying is the marks on the chain, are line up with the #1 on the outside of the gear. You can see the #2 mark in the photo... so that the #1 is at the 2:00 location. And it doesn't show it but the mark on the chain is on the #1 tooth. How can the crank sprocket be off if it reads 0 on the the timing marker... the chain mark is 22 links away from the cam sprocket mark on the #1 mark on the outside of the cam sprocket. Look at my photo... distributor tang is at 11:25... 0 degrees on
  14. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    HELP! I got it all back together, but it won't run! It doesn't seem like it running gin time, it's back firing through the carb intermittently but won't run. I used the Intake manifold from my L16 with a new Weber that ha been running for 5Kmi. Pulled it off the L16 and put it on the L20. I used the square port L16 header with the L16 square port manifold gasket. I use my starter and fuel pump off the L16, because they are new. But I used the L20 alternator because it fit the L20 bracket, and it's a smaller unit than the
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