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Figbuck last won the day on March 24 2010

Figbuck had the most liked content!

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About Figbuck

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 06/15/1952

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  • Location
    Portland, Oregon
  • Cars
    '73 620 that I bought new.
  • Interests
    Jazz music, Saxophones, Blues music, Guitars.
  • Occupation
    I've been a licensed contractor since '81 and specialize in finish carpentry & woodworking projects.

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  1. Figbuck

    Migrating North For The Holidays

    Sunday afternoon 5 to 8, my friends play @ Spirit's Pub. NE Cully and like 53rd between Fremont and Prescott. No cover, easy to get to, lots of parking... no cover. $4.50 microbrews like Lagunitas, Fat Tire, $3.50 for cans, bottles and draft pints of Bud, Coors. Old fashioned refrigerator back bar ... cold glasses and beers! Big screens on the smoking patio. Craft your buzz... killin' $2 splifs across the street at the break. https://youtu.be/4bzRNThYkgA The Bayou Boys is a dumb name. But it's really about 30 great players who support a core rhythm section who play New Orleans style blues, funk. R&B and Swamp Pop. Always great jammers sittin' in.
  2. Figbuck

    620 front suspension and steering

    I borrowed an iPad so I could search for parts and be able to work the transaction. I kept thinking if I can hit the search words right, I can probably find everything. RockAuto has some stuff, same with NAPA, but I ended up ordering what I could from AutoZone online. The stuff shipped the day I ordered it and was here in 4 days. The parts I got were from RareParts. For some reason I never could get the Rareparts web site to work and buy straight from them. But they did look parts up for me when I called. They didn't have any of the inner control arm stuff I needed. So I got the king pin set through AutoZone from RareParts, who ship out of Stockton Ca. It was pretty expensive, but Elgin Industries made in USA. Two lower (outside) control arm bushings, Left & Right tie rod ends, Left & Right side tie rods all made in Japan. I got new sway bar bushings from Japan too. I'm waiting for the rear sway bar stabilizer link. I ordered it from Moog Suspension online and it is the urethane bushing type. The last things I just ordered today. They are two inner control arm assemblies; Upper Link Spindle/bushings... that are the same left and right... and the two Lower Spindle Arm Bush Assy RH&LH Pair. After searching and not finding any of the inner control arm parts available in the USA, I ordered them through and E-Bay. The seller is in Mexico, so it looks like all three item will ship for $38 and the parts take an extra 14 days to mail. So It looks like I'm going to sit tight for a minute. I kept thinking that I could find the inner control arm bushing stuff if I got the search criteria right... and maybe I didn't... but I wasted so much time searching in circles. I talked to Mike and he is sending me the Upper/Outer Control arm bushing kits he made. Mike put the front Disc Brakes on my truck in his garage... I'm such a lucky guy! I don't think he would be that excited to R & R my KingPins. Maybe If I cleaned the fuck outta everything for him and plied him with a wad of cash! hahaha I already talked to a Front End and Suspension shop that will do the work for me. The deal is that I get the parts for them. They have a machine shop that they send work out to. Thanks for the replies... I will let y'all know how everything plays out...
  3. Figbuck

    620 front suspension and steering

    OK. My antique laptop won't connect to many servers, like E-Bay or even Rock Auto. I can get almost everything from AdvancedAuto, either from Moog or RareParts... except only the right Tie-Rod end and right Steering Arm... no lefts listed.
  4. I am working on my '73 620. I need to replace the King Pins, upper and lower control arm bushings, both tie rod ends, both steering arms, and the sway bar bushings... stabilizer, strut rod bushings. Question; Is the suspension the same for all the 620s from '73 through '79? Are there left and right Tie-rod ends or are they the same. Left and right steering arms or the same part number?
  5. Figbuck

    L16: Rocker Arm Pivot Guide popped out!!

    I found a website that my lame bowser could open... http://www.allensfasteners.com/default.asp I got ARP 300 Stainless studs, nuts and washers for the intake and exhaust manifolds. There are eleven of them. I'm doing pretty well cleaning parts and fixing things that I can't buy new or replace. The thermostat housing was frozen solid with rust. It was a lot of work to get it apart and cleaned up. I got a new temperature sender, thermostat and new stainless studs, nuts and washers to put it back together. I was so lucky... I could have destroyed the housing five different times... I broke off two easy-outs and a bunch of drill bits. I got the deck of the block cleaned off, chased the head bolt threads and cleaned them out. I scraped a thin layer of carbon off the piston tops and cleaned them up. When the head gasket failed, it took a couple little chunks off the edge and pitted the top of the #3 piston crown. Also took one chunk off the edge of the #4. I sanded them some to remove sharp edges and cleaned really well. The next problem is to replace this part, that bolts to the intake manifold. One hose connects to the BCDD on the Carb and the the other connects to a splitter on the firewall. Is it a solenoid? Can I delete it some how? Is there another aftermarket part that can replace it? The only thing I can find that seems relevant, doesn't really look like my parts. NOS part but it doesn't look right. Is this part shown mounted on the carb body? Here are oics from my truck; What is this called? What does it do? Can I find the OEM part? Can I find an updated Nissan part? Can I delete it?
  6. Figbuck

    L16: Rocker Arm Pivot Guide popped out!!

    I searched California Datsun but for some reason this didn't come up. Bad search words, I don't know. I kept searching for some combination of Nissan/Datsun 1973 L16 Cylinder Head, intake/exhaust stud kit. https://www.californiadatsun.com/exhaust-system/datsun-intake-exhaust-manifold-studs-l16-l18-l20b.html I could go to O'Reilly's Auto Parts and order intake and exhaust studs If I knew what the sizes were. I have tried looking for parts numbers or any info on studs in 1973 L1600 Datsun service manual and some other places and I'm not finding anything. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/performance-16477/exhaust-16555/exhaust-manifold-header-bolts---studs-17878/1ae38bae6636  
  7. Figbuck

    L16: Rocker Arm Pivot Guide popped out!!

    Look at the rocker arms... there is daylight between the pivot guides. ok my head bolts are clean, look good. I ordered a Fel-Pro gasket kit, and new thermostat and temp sender from Napa. I'm trying to find a kit for the intake/exhaust studs. Not NAPA, not any of the local parts stores and not Carr Nissan in Beaverton could help me. The browser on my old laptop won't let me either load websites or else won't open pages. I can't search RockAuto or any Nissan parts sites. I've wasted a bunch of time and frustration searching "Datsun" restoration sites. Lots of stuff for Z car engines. Can I use a stud kit for a six cylinder L engine?
  8. Figbuck

    L16: Rocker Arm Pivot Guide popped out!!

    I have a really nice inch/lb torque wrench for all that low-torque stuff. Anyway, I been on the Mare's Shank for almost two months. It sucks, but I'm slowly making progress. When I think about working on my Datsun, there is nothing logical or rational about it. It's an emotional thing. Plus there is some deep-seated deep seated delight in circumventing the DMV emission rules. So, I looked at the maintenance log that lives in my glove box and fished out my receipts. It looks like I put a fresh head on it in 1992 @ 166K mi. when I rebuilt the engine. It looks like in 2012, @ 230K I blew the head gasket. It is hard to tell if the head was machined. The shop that did the work noted a price for machine work, but the description only says, Replaced Head Gasket. I went to a couple of machine shops close by. The first two were too busy to talk to me. The third one, was Aluminum Head Rebuilders on SE 24th x Holgate. Family owned, red blooded American racer guys. It took them a while... nothing ever goes right it seems. Not their fault I beat the shit out of it! But I got it back... It's a thing of fuckin' beauty. They seemed to think it had never been surfaced before. It had been hot but not bad. The machinist said it was .003 in a couple spots, 004. in a couple, and he measured plenty of material to give it a little trim job. I have been beating the crap out of my engine for 100K miles. I was thinking I put a fresh head on it 36K miles ago. It was 100. Hahaha I change the oil and filters, and keep it tuned up, new plugs in it, but I still work it. No wonder the valves were floating and popping out the lash pads! The Valve guides were hammered, some exhaust seats were all sunk in. It was used up. A real testament to how much abuse these mighty L16s can take... and still run OK! New cam, bearings, valve guides, seats... springs, pivot guides, retainers and other stuff... Can I reuse my head bolts? Should I? Should I even care?
  9. Figbuck

    L16: Rocker Arm Pivot Guide popped out!!

    The springs all look good. The head is only 36K mi old? If some how there is a failure in the oil getting back there... I could see maybe a valve sticking in a roached guide... I guess. No matter what, the head has to come off. The best thing I can think is to try and talk my friend into sticking it in her barn until I can find some money. I don't even know how I would get it out there. I can't work on it here.
  10. Figbuck

    L16: Rocker Arm Pivot Guide popped out!!

    Why did your lash pad fall out 3 times? My oil is usually nasty by 3K. So, I drove the same drive over about 12 or 15 miles. A mixture of city streets and freeway up over a 2 mile grade coming back. Engine sounded nice, ran fine, idled perfectly at stop signs, accelerated cleanly seemed to have good throttle response. Like I just dialed the valves in with new plugs!!! But on my way back I rolled on the throttle from 65 to about 80 and I could hear a faint clicking, then bang I could tell I lost the lash pad again. I drove it about a mile up the hill in 2nd gear, coasted dead stick back home. Had to start it for a minute to get into my carport. I just took the valve cover off. The same #4 intake lash pad came out and is not to be seen laying on the head. On the intake valve #3, the rocker arm was knocked sideway off the lash pad up against the cam tower... with the lash pad itself rotated 90 degrees so that it trapped the rocker arm in place but still all askew. A chunk of the #4 intake rocker was broken off and it is nowhere to be seen either. I was thinking about taking both rockers off the #4, pull the plug wire off so I could drive it to my friend's farm on 3 cylinders... so maybe I could work on it. But that was before I saw the #3 intake rocker all roached too. My maintenance log says I blew a head gasket towing my utility trailer... then got a re-manufactured head at the beginning of 2012 @ 230K. I re-torqued the cam towers and head in a few miles... then again around 243... so it wasn't that many miles ago that I adjusted my valves. Now is 266K so it's 36K miles plus/minus. That kinda sucks. I don't know what to do right now. looked on OfferUp and saw a guy in Vancouver Wa. who is doing a 620 KA swap... is selling a clean looking l16 with tranny for $350. Even if I could beg him to let me have it for $300... I don't have any money. I saw a nice looking '95 hardbody some chick is selling as a part truck because no title and she needs it gone. She said it's her DD and runs good, but can't insure it and needs to git legit. $500. I could harvest the engine and wiring harness and get my money back parting the rest of it. Yeah, I was just barely making it... now I'm on "Mare's Shank"! 25 years ago I did a bathroom remodel for a stark raving mad man in a sprawling estate name Irving. I met with him twice to talk about doing the work and then to sign a contract. His office had enlarged photos of him standing in front of old aircraft and in the hall photos of the first sports car races held on the 17 Mile Drive in Carmel California in the early 1950s. He had a Caddy powered Allard and a Cunningham, that he raced to 3rd one year. Man that is motor sports claim to fame right there. Irving's estate was inherited from an Old California Gold Rush family. He had so much money that no matter how much he tried to blow it he couldn't. He was a decorated WWII Flight Surgeon, went on to teach and lecture at both University of California Berkley and Stanford. One wing of the house was chocked full of first edition books worth millions. There was a secret vault behind a book case that had really rare and valuable things... like one of the two original California Constitutions. Both UC Berkley and Stanford Libraries were fighting over why he should sell it to them, Not even donate it, just take our money. This old guy was a stone alcoholic now and polished off at least a bottle of Absolut every day. He had a house keeper who shopped and made food for him noon to four. She refused to buy him booze and told me immediately not to fall for his bullshit. If he talked me into getting him booze or cashing his bouncing checks... I would regret the outcome. Boy was she right. The day I showed up to start at 9 AM, he was already into the second bottle. He had a deal with a 16 year old neighbor kid totally on the sly. He conned this kid out of his allowance money or anything the kid could swipe from his Mom's purse, so he could drive Irving's Jaguar. He owned a 1950 Jaguar 120 roadster that was all original down to the leather belts holding the bonnet. It was rode hard an put away wet. Nasty dirty but he had a local British Car shop keepin' it running and tires on it. Nasty dirty, but not fucked up at all... all there... and sounding great! He got convicted for drunk driving like seven or eight times, so he was permanently revoked. He couldn't risk going to jail so he didn't try driving any more. Everybody he came into contact with refused to buy him booze or let him have any cash money. The cashier's at his bank wouldn't even cash a check for him... or one of his own checks that he wrote to anybody. As I found out when the housekeeper told me to cash his checks at his bank right away. He had a lawyer who tried to keep him from killing himself... or at leas not kill anybody else. But he made this end run with the kid, who just started driving and couldn't wait to drive this big old V12 beast into town! Shit, I wanted to drive that thing. So one day Irving asks me to drive him to the Post Office. Ya mean the Post office next to the Liquor store Irving? He goes, "Yeah, I'm on Mare's Shank!!" What? Mare's Shank?? WTF? Right Old Chap... I got no wheels... so I is HOOFIN' IT! Anybody want to give me a lift to Canby? I is on Mare's Shank.
  11. This happened to me in 1977 with about 40K mi. ; I was pulling a long hill in 4th gear and all of a sudden a loud ticking sound started in the engine. I let off the throttle and the ticking slowed with the RPM. I pulled over, left it running, popped the hood and could tell it was from the valve train and not a rod knock. It was in the middle of the night, it didn't seem like it was going to blow up so I drove 20 miles back home. The next day, I pulled the valve cover and saw the missing guide. I think it was ninty-six cents from Nissan. I have been changing my oil and filter right at 3K miles for a few years now. So fast forward to last week. I changed my oil and filter, new fuel and air filters. Coolant got changed in the fall and looked good. The last few tanks of gas seemed like I'm not getting good milage... performance OK... not bad. My maintenance log says plugs were 15K mi old, replaced the last time I adjusted valves. I pulled the plugs and the #4 electrode was burnt and bent... but the other three plugs looked nice and tan! Fuck, What's up with that. Never seen that before. Stuck new NKGs in and off I went. 15 miles, I go in shopping, come out and start engine, let it warm up while I fool with receipts. I take off driving 25 mph through a neighborhood in third gear. Out of nowhere there is a cut-out like a cough through the carb. But only for a brief second, then back to running smooth. WTF was that? About ten blocks later the same thing happens, but like two coughs and the engine died. I tried to start it, but it didn't want to fire while I coasted. Fortunately I was on top of a long hill and got it running on compression... but now with a loud tapping sound in time with the Revolution of the engine. I drove it home knocking like crazy. Finally today I worked on it. The rocker arm pivot guide for the #4 intake was just sitting there on the head, suctioned in oil. Stuck the guide back in, adjusted all the Intakes. The were all too tight. Three of the exhaust valves were tight and #2 was still right on. Just took it for a little spin. Starts and idles nice... winds out really strong for 266K mi. SO... what happened? I can't understand how that little guide can come out of there? Any ideas??
  12. Figbuck

    Converting to rear disc

    I hope you got your rear discs figured out by now. I have been driving with the Beebani rear disc set-up now for almost two years. I have abused the fock outta my brakes towing heavy leads, blasting the back roads and nasty stop and go freeway traffic at any speeds. I don't know how this relates to the OPs specific query... but, I'm running my stock brake booster. There is a distinct two part feeling to the pedal... the fronts work first and then towards the bottom of the travel there is a big springy cushion felling when the backs come on. So far I have only locked my brakes up once in a total panic! It's a pretty hard thing to do. When it happened I thought to myself... oh shit, I'm a passenger... but the truck stopped so freakin' fast. As far as hooking up the Izusu parking brakes to the hand brake yoke... there could be a bunch of different slick, quick and easy solutions to this. Here are the Figbuck 620 oics...
  13. Figbuck

    Datsun 620 stereo

    ]Bueno! But... you now that you have entered Ratsun world... OICS or it never happened! [post=Figbuck620 on Flickr][/post
  14. Figbuck

    Datsun 620 stereo

    Is the old radio out? The old radios and AM/FM Cassette units volume and tuning knobs fit through two hole and got a nit to hold the unit to the dash, a small square cutout was for the dial, etc. When I finally got around to buying a modern CD/am/fm with a USB port, etc... I had to remove the plastic inset piece that surounds the instrument cluster and heat/defroster controls. If I remember right, this was the hardest part of the whole deal, figuring out where the screws are for it. Then you can take some tin snips and cut the metal of the dash frame out so that modern rectangular units fit. I'm pretty sure i decided to take the plastic inset out rather than try to cut the metal dash frame in place. To risky, would crack the inset. It was a couple years ago that I did it. Best thing I ever did to my 620... besides 4 wheel disc brakes. I got a Sony with a remote that works great, removable face for $99! Back in the '80s I used to blow $400 or $500 on a Sony or Alpine system. I think I had 3 or those ripped off before I just left the hole in the dash and put the players in the glove box.
  15. Figbuck

    Battery drain? Help!!

    I had the same symptoms where there was a slow drain on the battery. New Battery, started and ran fine until the truck sat for a couple days and the battery was drained dead. It drove me nuts until Mike, Hainz got me to trouble shoot all the basics... long story short... the two wires to the alternator got swapped when I chucked my stock L16 35amp externally regulated alternator, with a 60amp internally regulated unit from a 720. A clue if I remember right... no alternator light lit when the ignition was turned on. After the alternator light on the dash works right. Truck can sit for weeks now even though the clock on my CD player draws current.

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