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Figbuck last won the day on March 24 2010

Figbuck had the most liked content!

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About Figbuck

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 06/15/1952

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  • Location
    Portland, Oregon
  • Cars
    '73 620 that I bought new.
  • Interests
    Jazz music, Saxophones, Blues music, Guitars.
  • Occupation
    I've been a licensed contractor since '81 and specialize in finish carpentry & woodworking projects.

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  1. Time Left: 3 days and 17 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Was my spare. Tire is a 195 Dunlop radial with pretty good tread left. I'm In SW Portland on the Beaverton border, like Raliegh Hills


  2. I run a 60 amp IR alt listed for L20 720 trucks, in my '73 L16. It is really tight, but doable if you keep fucking with it. The first one I got out of a Pathfinder @ P 'n P, for $25, just to figure out how to lose the voltage regulator, and clean up the wiring looms. '73, I don't have the radiator core "bump out" that was used in the L20 trucks, but the straight core support. I got a new ABS plastic and Aluminum radiator listed as a replacement for L20 trucks, and was able to mount it so the bottom hose outlet doesn't hit the alt/pulley/fan. Had to take a die grinder to the top of the alternator too, so the adjust arm goes in a notch. hahaha tight little fan belt, but when the junk yard alt died... an easy twenty minute swap for a new $119 one from the auto parts store. So fuggin' broke I didn't want to blow a hundred bucks on a new one... and not be able to jam it in there. Sheeit. But it works great, lights, heater/defroster, stereo, all on at the same time. I read on one of these alternator swap thread where there is a 65 amp alternator available over the counter, listed for L16 510s... with air conditioning. Same physical size as the 35 amp L16 alts. But I never could find them. Why can't a bracket be modified of fabricated to run 110 amp alternator on the drivers side? Seems like a ton of room? Anybody tried it? Got OICS??
  3. "Part # 56112-W5000 is the rubber bushing isolator used on the top mount of the HL510, 210, S110 and the B110 Sentra rear shock absorbers. Looks just like the ones used on sway bars. Might interchange." Just had all the suspension and steering gone through. Replaced King Pins, all the control arm bushings, all the sway bar bushings and the Tension Rod Bushings... then aligned with the Hunter system. These stock bushings are the right application on early 620s. Look identical to the ones that came off... except they were smashed flat... hard to see how they were working as designed. They don't look anything like Frank Rizzo's OICS of Made in China bushing kit. They are a solid donut shape, with a little rib around the middle. I just came across a quote sheet from NAPA, for these bushings for a Sentra, that are quality brand... $24. Not $58 from the Nissan dealer.
  4. I picked up my truck this morning from Ron's Front End. The labor bill was $1295.00. Parts $910.00. Labor for tie rod ends, steering arms, $105... new swaybar bushings $65... outer, both upper and lower control arm bushings $210... Inner, both upper and lower control arm links $500... R & R King Pin bushing kit $210, plus $95 machine shop service... finally, alignment work $105. I brought it in Tuesday Morning and It was ready at the end of Thursday. Ron quoted me $105 per hour shop time. It drives like new obviously. The manager Robert did some of the work and said the steering box still had adjustment left. He said it may need to be tweaked in a while, he hesitates to crank on it. I said, "Sounds like the voice of experience." He goes, "Yeah, I have been responsible for slaughtering more than a few 620s... cut them up, notch the frame and slam them on the ground... heh, heh, heh." I looked at the old bushings and upper inner links spindles... they were toast. I'm glad I was patient enough to keep searching E-bay for replacements. I wonder where the package I waited fifteen weeks for, that never showed up... where it ended up? The last ones on earth to be found... lost in the Mexican Post Office!!! The Elgin Made in USA King Pin Bushing kit I got from Rare Parts for $215 inc. shipping. Delivered in three days. I could have got Made in Japan new old stock from sellers in Singapore for half that shipped in about 18 days. A special thanks to Mike Klotz @ Bluehandsfabrication.com for the upper outer control arm urethane bushing kit! I'm pretty happy how things turned out. I had the King Pins done in 1990 for about $900 at a 4x4 shop in Redwood City. It was about 120K mi. ago. If I would have had any idea how hard it was to replace all this stuff... I would have lubed all the steering and control arm links & bushings more regularly!!! If all this suspension work lasts me another 17 or 18 years and 100K mi. I will be 85 years old... 368,000 miles. Next, is new tires and quick Spring road trip to California.
  5. "Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM.... "Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM.... "Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM.... "Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM.... "Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM.... "Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM.... "Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM...."Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM...."Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM...."Drums work great if keep you them adjusted!!" OHMMM....
  6. Figbuck

    Frontier rims

    uhh, correct me if I'm wrong, but later stock nissan 6 lugs are not 6 x 108.9 but, 6 x 4.5. Have you shopped for 14" tires yet? No problem finding name-brand tires if you want to spend $600 for "hot rod" tires. I finally ditched my 14" wheels when it got impossible to find used tires. There are way more options for less expensive 15" & 16"s new, and I always see used sets of tires for $200 mounted and balanced. I got some American Racing 5 lug steelies back in the '70s, much like those 8 spoke Bajas. I sanded them well, shot epoxy primer on them and then satin black Rustoleum. Whenever I washed my truck, I shot a fresh coat of Rustoleum, always stylin'.
  7. I went to the Nissan dealer, they found the old micro-fish and printed exploded diagrams for the 620 72.5 - 78, front end for me. The tension rod bushing part numbers had been replaced a couple times but, the bushing is still available in the current parts computer as a 10 piece bag of bushings for a B210 or something. Part # 56112-W5000 BUSH-SHO 1000 The bag of ten was $58.20. Ordered a noon, parts guy called me at 10am the next day.
  8. It depends on how wide your tires are. I used 1/4" spacers on the rear because it looked like the sidewalls might hit the leaf springs. But when I mounted them up there was what seemed like plenty of room, maybe an inch. I thought maybe I didn't need to add the spacer after all, but I'm not looking at the side wall when it under load going around a clover leaf at 55mph and hitting a pot hole. The cool thing that I noticed right away was that the steering became quicker. The front wheels take a set in corners without having to tug on the wheel to rotate through the apex... no "push". The steering seems very neutral when I'm out in the hills blasting through through the twistys, like the rear wheels want to follow the front without feeling a loose condition. 1974 is exempt from Smog inspections in California? My friend live over in West Davis. He is alway telling me about all the Datsun he sees in Excramento. haha You are in a great place to hit the junk yards, craigslit, OfferUp.com etc. Both those trucks look worth working on. Prolly wouldn't have thought that ten years ago... both donor trucks!!! What's funny is I have seen in the last two weeks... nice clean, running well when pulled, with some nice parts on them,... are L16s with transmissions... even one with a 5speed already on it! $500!! Each guy was doing a KA swap!! Gimme five hundred bucks and git this thing outta my garage! hahaha Here is a link to download that might help; http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/FSM-Datsun-Pick-Up-1977.pdf Look at the stickies in General Discussion, there are a bunch of links to Service Manuals and your wiring diagram. This is good stuff if you haven't seen it; http://www.davidcmurphy.com/olddat/620tech.htm Also; https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Your-Datsun-Nissan-Alive/dp/0912528656 I thought the '74 model year started L18s and had the bump-out radiator support? This truck has the L16? Straight radiator support? Is it a late '73 model... like in the 1972 year I bought a Desert Tan 521 with L16 and all kinds of California emissions pump garbage. Then '72 and a half was the first Bullet-side 620s with L16. I bought my truck through a California dealer who registered it for me because I lived in California, but took delivery of in Virginia, so it is a 49 State version with Dual Points and other stock carb related emissions stuff... but no air pump and evap-canisters. It was all original and passed the sniffer with flying colors, so I never had any problems before the exemption rules. It's still pretty stock except converted to matchbox distributer & eliminated the voltage regulator, cleaned up the wiring looms. Items very high on the list of 620 upgrades for a reliable daily driver... and not that hard to do. In hindsight, when I banged all the dents out of my truck and painted it, I should have cut the later bump-out out of my '77 donor truck, ... then welded it into my '73. I just bought a new aluminum and ABS radiator from the Mac's Radiator, it was listed as replacement for L20B engines. Really nice, very light but sturdy. I had to relocate all 4 mounting holes on the steel radiator flange, to reuse the existing bolt holes. I tried to slide it as much to the passenger side as possible for that lower pretzel hose to clear my alternator pulley/fan. I run the internally regulated stock Hitachi 60amp listed for L20/720s. It is a larger unit and even with the very smallest fan belt, it's really tight. Lower radiator hose is zip tied to the frame for 1/2" clearance! With the bump-out I wouldn't have these issues. I have been thinking about modifying an existing bracket or fabricating a new one, so that I can run a 110 amp alternator off the driver's side of the engine. Plenty of space it looks like. Why isn't isn't this a common Ratsun hack? Anybody ever do it... seen it done... seen blurry dark phone OICS of an alt on the other side?
  9. Loose the ugly wheels... I saw a set of 5 Pathfinder alloys with 50% good tires on my neighborhood OfferUp.com. It had the matching spare for $200. Saw another set of five Pathy wheels for $100.
  10. My front discs have been on there for years, the pads are barely worn, and I tow trailers all the time. The only thing now is change and bleed the hydraulic fluid. I did Beebani brackets on the back and didn't have to change the brake booster and master. Even towing a loaded trailer the brakes haul you down so fast it makes your eyeballs flat. Disc brakes absolutely saved my ass a bunch of times in the rain... you know that feeling of "OH Shit... I'm just a passenger!!" when your foot's on the floor.Good Luck...
  11. Rebuilding the drums is a fucked job. Having to adjust the fronts all the time is a pain in the ass. Having shitty stock Datsun drum brakes just sucks. It SUX realizing that the new aftermarket drums you cheaped-out on, are warped to fock, from overheating driving down a long mountain road. Having drum brakes hunt wildly side to side in heavy braking on the freeway sucks... and trying to figure out which side is going to grab, and what way the truck will pitch sideways... that sucks. Having to pump the brakes a little bit all the time to make sure there is feeling... and to get an idea which way the steering is going to jerk... that sucks.
  12. Did I say fuck drum brakes. It boils down to money. You probably could do fronts and back for $1000 to $1200. $1500 is more realistic. If you scoured craigslist, E-bay or Junk Yards for the calipers... you can buy new calipers and not get ripped on the core charge. The cost to buy calipers new without a core is crazy. New quality rotors and pads are cheap enough to get them new.
  13. ...for a daily driver? Fuck the drum brakes! I been driving my truck for 46 years... best single modification I ever made was change to Hitachi calipers.
  14. My 4 speed was really hard to shift, up or down, and especially when it is cold. I thought the engagement dogs were toast a long time ago. I have been keeping a maintenance log for a long time. I thought I remembered changing transmission oil a bunch of times, but really it was 100K mi. ago. Whoops. I had a hard time getting filler plug out. What drained out was the most vile nasty roasted burnt oil I have ever seen. I went to CarQuest the close local auto part place. I ask the three old guys behind the counter what they thought about running synthetic to make it shift easier. They seem to think that was OK. At least not wrong. They argued for a while and agree on Castrol Transmax import Multi Vehicle ATF. The said it was a Dexron style. Dang, the transmission shifts really well now. I can't believe I've been living with burnt fucking peanut butter lubricating the trans. The only problem is a small bit of oil is leaking. I wiped it off to see, but it seems like it's better now. Maybe just over filled it a bit. Maybe thinner oil is leaking past a seal...
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