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Figbuck

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Figbuck last won the day on March 24 2010

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About Figbuck

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 06/15/1952

Profile Information

  • Location
    Portland, Oregon
  • Cars
    '73 620 that I bought new.
  • Interests
    Jazz music, Saxophones, Blues music, Guitars.
  • Occupation
    I've been a licensed contractor since '81 and specialize in finish carpentry & woodworking projects.

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  1. Hey Richie, you inspire me to start rebuilding my L16 this summer! I wish I would have mentioned Colin Messer's Book. I used it 30 years ago when I did the first rebuild on it. I used it again last fall on my L20, along with the same book you are using... and the Nissan 620 field service manual for the torque specs. The book is a lot harder to find cheap, but prolly worth it for some of the pictures and procedures. You are not to late in the process to read the engine building sections. I recommend it. Good Luck, hang in there. https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Your-Datsun-Nissan-Alive/
  2. Inspect the way it flies into a dumpster! I just bought a new plastic and aluminum radiator for L20b, $189. Hot set up...
  3. It's all coming back to me now. I had to make some small bushings for both of the bottom ears so I could use the existing L20 alt. bracket. I think I could have drilled and tapped the front bolt, and drilled the rear hole for larger bolts, but I wanted to make it run. I didn't have time and wasn't where my tools are.
  4. I found a place in Portland called Auto-Battery Electric. Ken, the guru at SE 15th X Hawthorne, built me a new 110 amp unit from a small Delco housing, with the right pulley for $98. A new plug clip pigtail was ten bucks. They mounting ears are so close to matching the 35amp POS I have been running on an L20. The only modifications I made were to add a washer to the front bolt to shim it. And I replaced the idler arm with a $3.64 turnbuckle from ACE Hardware. I added a wing nut to lock one side of the threads. Simple to tweak the belt tension. Fuck me, how come I didn't ever do this before?
  5. I assume we are talking about a Hitachi stock carb with all the emissions hooked up... I mean cold, can you turn on the ignition, depress the pedal once so it closes the choke, then fires right off? What should happen is; as it warms, the five position choke should open gradually. You can bump the throttle to disengage it too. Probably could use some carb cleaner? Just for the hell of it, check for vacuum leaks!! I hung on to my stock carb set-up for years. they work great as long as they work. A couple things I noticed the Weber doesn't have is BCDD (boost controlled
  6. Out of curiosity, what MPG do you get? Does it start cold, hot... choke returns to slow idle as it warms? Can you wind the fuck outta it in second and third?? Does it come with conversion plate, studs and throttle linkage bracket?? If not, wouldn't spend the time to do the conversion, adjust dist. timing and tune carb, maybe re-jet.
  7. Hell yes. Step one, procedure one; Measure the distance between the lock nuts and write it down. I think... refresh my memory, I just did this twice with my donor truck too; 15 5/16"??? 15 3/8"?? I found a OEM 620 jack in a dumpster years ago, I have two identical jacks behind my seat. I can put the front end in the air very quickly. Remember to have the truck where you need it to be, because when the link is gone it is a bitch to move. I think I had to put it back in once to move it!
  8. I ain't that clever. Especially with the '73 model there is no radiator bump out. It's a tight fit, but I did it by myself. It was scary, no lie. I didn't use a primer. I think it said two light costs our until you achive hide. But I did use PPG Metal Cleaner and neutralizing conditioners, after I prepped the block with abrasive wheels on a die grinder. I think the trick is rigging the engine at 5%, so the transmission input shaft is parallel to the clutch. You should feel it hit the pilot bushing, then, stop when it hits the end of the crank. a little solid thunk. If y
  9. It's my truck and I like blue. Duplicolor, don't put it on to thick. Goes good with Rusoleum satin Midnight Blue... So you didn't have it bored? What did the machine shop do... or are supposed to be doing?
  10. Did you get pistons? Is the machinist supplying you pistons, rings and bearings?
  11. Something that caused me issues was the Oil Pressure Sender. I wish I would have bought a new sender unit for my Auto-Meter oil pressure gauge... and made sure the threads in the block were the right ones... or else, tapped new threads before I "boiled" the block clean. The stock idiot light has a different thread pitch than most of the sending units. I know there are a ton of little things to remember and do, but this item can save you grief just as you want to get finished and fire it off!
  12. I'm late to this; I would have plastigauged the con rod journals... see how much wear and any differences. When you go to put SDT bearings back in it good practice to Plastigauge them. It talks about that in the book. If they look OK, serviceable, leave the mains alone, pop the pistons out to see what the coolant did to the upper ring lands. Are there ring pieces missing, ring missing? Ring lands damaged? If the piston is not fractured in anyway, i would think about getting new rings and con rod bearings... call it good. Correct me if I'm off here; The cost
  13. Hey Don! I've been meaning to call you now that I'm mobile again. There is a small box of parts, some of the fixed window trim pieces and the factory jack... other small stuff can't remember. It's at Laurel's where I'm still working on stuff. I have a couple of nice 620 fuse blocks with the plug, and one with out, in my storage unit. There might be a cover too, but not in great shape. I also have the variable speed switch and both plugs, with the nuts, washer and plastic bushing for dash mount... I just came across in a box of 620 junk. You are welcome to anything you can use... T
  14. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    I think it might be easier to get another header. I'm striking out finding a flange for that '73 square port header, can find them for L20 and some other Datsun applications. I remembered that Mike Klots made some exhaust flanges a wile back, but on his web-site he put a link to somebody who wanted to take over making them, or make down tubes for them. I sent an E-mail. On the subject of new exhaust and headers; I know there aren't big power gains from aftermarket headers, but I'm wondering what size exhaust pipe would you use on a L20?
  15. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    I need a new exhaust system so I took it to Exhaust Specialties in Beaverton. The mechanic said the flange on the pipe was too thin to weld to. I also noticed the 4 into two collector is hitting the corner of the block. I guess a 3/4" taller block pulled it up. I cranked down on the new exhaust studs pretty hard, but not so hard somebody has to fight them when they go to work on it. He noticed that the header to the collector joint was leaking around the new gasket. Any suggestions?
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