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Figbuck

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Everything posted by Figbuck

  1. Inspect the way it flies into a dumpster! I just bought a new plastic and aluminum radiator for L20b, $189. Hot set up...
  2. It's all coming back to me now. I had to make some small bushings for both of the bottom ears so I could use the existing L20 alt. bracket. I think I could have drilled and tapped the front bolt, and drilled the rear hole for larger bolts, but I wanted to make it run. I didn't have time and wasn't where my tools are.
  3. I found a place in Portland called Auto-Battery Electric. Ken, the guru at SE 15th X Hawthorne, built me a new 110 amp unit from a small Delco housing, with the right pulley for $98. A new plug clip pigtail was ten bucks. They mounting ears are so close to matching the 35amp POS I have been running on an L20. The only modifications I made were to add a washer to the front bolt to shim it. And I replaced the idler arm with a $3.64 turnbuckle from ACE Hardware. I added a wing nut to lock one side of the threads. Simple to tweak the belt tension. Fuck me, how come I didn't ever do this before?
  4. I assume we are talking about a Hitachi stock carb with all the emissions hooked up... I mean cold, can you turn on the ignition, depress the pedal once so it closes the choke, then fires right off? What should happen is; as it warms, the five position choke should open gradually. You can bump the throttle to disengage it too. Probably could use some carb cleaner? Just for the hell of it, check for vacuum leaks!! I hung on to my stock carb set-up for years. they work great as long as they work. A couple things I noticed the Weber doesn't have is BCDD (boost controlled
  5. Out of curiosity, what MPG do you get? Does it start cold, hot... choke returns to slow idle as it warms? Can you wind the fuck outta it in second and third?? Does it come with conversion plate, studs and throttle linkage bracket?? If not, wouldn't spend the time to do the conversion, adjust dist. timing and tune carb, maybe re-jet.
  6. Hell yes. Step one, procedure one; Measure the distance between the lock nuts and write it down. I think... refresh my memory, I just did this twice with my donor truck too; 15 5/16"??? 15 3/8"?? I found a OEM 620 jack in a dumpster years ago, I have two identical jacks behind my seat. I can put the front end in the air very quickly. Remember to have the truck where you need it to be, because when the link is gone it is a bitch to move. I think I had to put it back in once to move it!
  7. I ain't that clever. Especially with the '73 model there is no radiator bump out. It's a tight fit, but I did it by myself. It was scary, no lie. I didn't use a primer. I think it said two light costs our until you achive hide. But I did use PPG Metal Cleaner and neutralizing conditioners, after I prepped the block with abrasive wheels on a die grinder. I think the trick is rigging the engine at 5%, so the transmission input shaft is parallel to the clutch. You should feel it hit the pilot bushing, then, stop when it hits the end of the crank. a little solid thunk. If y
  8. It's my truck and I like blue. Duplicolor, don't put it on to thick. Goes good with Rusoleum satin Midnight Blue... So you didn't have it bored? What did the machine shop do... or are supposed to be doing?
  9. Did you get pistons? Is the machinist supplying you pistons, rings and bearings?
  10. Something that caused me issues was the Oil Pressure Sender. I wish I would have bought a new sender unit for my Auto-Meter oil pressure gauge... and made sure the threads in the block were the right ones... or else, tapped new threads before I "boiled" the block clean. The stock idiot light has a different thread pitch than most of the sending units. I know there are a ton of little things to remember and do, but this item can save you grief just as you want to get finished and fire it off!
  11. I'm late to this; I would have plastigauged the con rod journals... see how much wear and any differences. When you go to put SDT bearings back in it good practice to Plastigauge them. It talks about that in the book. If they look OK, serviceable, leave the mains alone, pop the pistons out to see what the coolant did to the upper ring lands. Are there ring pieces missing, ring missing? Ring lands damaged? If the piston is not fractured in anyway, i would think about getting new rings and con rod bearings... call it good. Correct me if I'm off here; The cost
  12. Hey Don! I've been meaning to call you now that I'm mobile again. There is a small box of parts, some of the fixed window trim pieces and the factory jack... other small stuff can't remember. It's at Laurel's where I'm still working on stuff. I have a couple of nice 620 fuse blocks with the plug, and one with out, in my storage unit. There might be a cover too, but not in great shape. I also have the variable speed switch and both plugs, with the nuts, washer and plastic bushing for dash mount... I just came across in a box of 620 junk. You are welcome to anything you can use... T
  13. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    I think it might be easier to get another header. I'm striking out finding a flange for that '73 square port header, can find them for L20 and some other Datsun applications. I remembered that Mike Klots made some exhaust flanges a wile back, but on his web-site he put a link to somebody who wanted to take over making them, or make down tubes for them. I sent an E-mail. On the subject of new exhaust and headers; I know there aren't big power gains from aftermarket headers, but I'm wondering what size exhaust pipe would you use on a L20?
  14. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    I need a new exhaust system so I took it to Exhaust Specialties in Beaverton. The mechanic said the flange on the pipe was too thin to weld to. I also noticed the 4 into two collector is hitting the corner of the block. I guess a 3/4" taller block pulled it up. I cranked down on the new exhaust studs pretty hard, but not so hard somebody has to fight them when they go to work on it. He noticed that the header to the collector joint was leaking around the new gasket. Any suggestions?
  15. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    Hainz, I wish I would have watched that while I had it on the stand. I watched it a few times years ago. I forgot about your videos, but mostly I have been out at the farm, glad to have electricity form a 150 extension cord. No running water, no internet. It would have been fantastic to watch your videos as I was in the process. You are probably right. I didn't need to take the timing cover back off, but a new gasket set is $13. I did fixed some things where I didn't like the way they turned out on the timing cover. But going through the process again, I realized I set the cam spr
  16. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    It's apart now. Just drove back into town to get parts and stuff. L20 gasket kit was $13 and will be here after 2:00. Yeah, somehow the chain must have slipped a couple notches on the crank... but what's weird is that there is a place in the cycle where the timing marks lined up! But it doesn't run, I fucked up somehow. I did learn something. I made a jig/fixture out of a piece of aluminum shelf bracket, !" x 5" x 1/8" thick, to keep the flywheel from turning when I torqued it on. I used the same piece of metal, using one hole and drilled another hole the size of the bolts that fa
  17. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    Thanks for the input. I'm going to rent a van in a few minutes, so I can run for parts and stuff, go back out to the farm for a couple days. I'm really burned out from this, dozens of hours cleaning and fixing stuff. I'm going to get a big table set up so I can drain the fluids and take it apart really fast. At least I don't have to clean that much. I'm dreading having to take the crank pulley off again, but I have never been able to move the timing chain with a block. I'll order new timing gaskets and do it over. Half the time the tensioner comes out and unless the oil pan
  18. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    Right, my cam sprocket is set just like that, you can see the index mark... but what I'm saying is the marks on the chain, are line up with the #1 on the outside of the gear. You can see the #2 mark in the photo... so that the #1 is at the 2:00 location. And it doesn't show it but the mark on the chain is on the #1 tooth. How can the crank sprocket be off if it reads 0 on the the timing marker... the chain mark is 22 links away from the cam sprocket mark on the #1 mark on the outside of the cam sprocket. Look at my photo... distributor tang is at 11:25... 0 degrees on
  19. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    HELP! I got it all back together, but it won't run! It doesn't seem like it running gin time, it's back firing through the carb intermittently but won't run. I used the Intake manifold from my L16 with a new Weber that ha been running for 5Kmi. Pulled it off the L16 and put it on the L20. I used the square port L16 header with the L16 square port manifold gasket. I use my starter and fuel pump off the L16, because they are new. But I used the L20 alternator because it fit the L20 bracket, and it's a smaller unit than the
  20. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    Them be the ones... that used to be anyway. That plenum thing is long gone and the holes are plugged. If I use decide to use it, should I grind all the casting that house those little pipes, and clean up the inside of the header right there? I'll have to look at it again now that I see what it was like. Chuck the Aluminum Head guy described the system working by having those sheet metal pieces in the head glow to help burn emissions. If I used my stock '73 header, can I use the L20 intake/exhaust gasket? I'm not at the farm to look. I can visualize a L16 square port ga
  21. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    ...her is my fresh L16 head from two years ago. The header that was on the L20, has little duct like things at the top of the header port. Who ever took the manifold off cut these little things jagged with a hack saw. I will have to take more oics when I go back out to the farm.
  22. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    Mike: Why can't I use the existing L20 oil pan? Here is oic of the rebuilt head. The W58 intake manifold, that was in a box in the bed, seems useable. All the smog stuff that was bolted to the front is long gone... it's in rough condition. I would rather use my L16 intake manifold... the intake ports look the same in my photographs...
  23. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    Is it the new normal that there are no more Datsuns in the Pick 'n Pull? I have not seen a truck around PDX in two years, and very few other Datsuns. If you want parts, you have to buy parts trucks now? I was talking to Chuck the head rebuilder about finding a local machine shop to take my L16 to when I pull it out in a couple weeks. He told me about a one man shop in the NAPA Auto Parts store in SE Portland. Chuck had some finished heads on the counter that were for him. He remarked that L16s are a rare breed anymore and worth working on. In the mean time... it's runni
  24. Figbuck

    L16 to L20 swap

    A progress report: 620slodat came back out to Newberg with a trailer and loaded the King Cab up. He is going to put the cab on a 720 frame with a diesel engine! hahaha cool! I got the engine and a pretty nice hood before passing it along. Still a bunch of good stuff to part out. Don; I have the factory jack. I put the crank and handle in the cab, be got sidetracked and never took the jack off my trailer for you. Also a box of spares that I should have put in the bed too, a fifth hub cap and two beauty rings, some other parts!! How did it go off loading? Good thing we
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