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Cruzn620

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Cruzn620 last won the day on December 20 2010

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About Cruzn620

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 06/26/1985

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  • Website URL
    http://www.fightfordirttrack.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kentucky
  • Cars
    1979 620KC
  • Interests
    Building Cars/Trucks/Bikes, Motorcycle Racing, Mountain Biking, Running, Fishing, Hunting, Golf
  • Occupation
    Drafter
  1. I used ALL of the wiring from the donor vehicle. The only datsun wires left on the truck are pig tails from the lights. It is possible that I missed a ground on the engine bay, but I hooked all of the engine bay stuff up the same day as I did the swap so I wouldn't forget anything. I have a feeling this is something really really small, like a ground, but it's driving me nuts! SO CLOSE TO HAVING IT RUNNING! The ignitor issue sounds pretty plausible because when I had the pump hooked up to the factory harness, it ran for about 5 seconds then after I attempted to start it, it never turned on again...so I could see something happening there. That is why I ran a temporary hot wire to it, to make sure my pump wasn't screwed. As for a wiring diagram, I downloaded one and it was like 40 pages, but when I dig into it, it seems like it isn't super detailed. I'll look over it again and see if there is a way I can jumper the injectors. I also haven't had the chance to check for fuel pressure at the banjo yet either, so that is something I need to check. Thank you for all of your help!!
  2. A little back ground on my swap if this helps, I pulled EVERYTHING engine, transmission, wiring, from my running hardbody. I drove the hardbody to the shop, stripped it, and began the retro fit. This is also a KA24E, not a DE, so I'm sure a few things are different. I'll try the banjo bolt deal because safety is just a suggestion...hahahahaha. I'm pretty sure this is an OBD-1 vehicle, and if that's correct the data wouldn't be detailed enough to tell me through a scanner where my problem was...correct? Another thing...to get the pump to work, I just ran a temporary "hot" wire, from the pump to the battery, just to make sure the pump worked and such. Could jumping around the fuel pump relay have anything to do with this? Like a signal from the ECU that if the fuel pump relay isn't open not to open an injector or something? Thanks for all the help. These last little things are killing me!
  3. These last little things are killing my KA-swap project! Ok, If I pour a little fuel into the throttle body the truck will run fine for a few seconds, but when the fuel pump is running, it won't even start. I have pulled the line off a few times thinking their may be air trapped in the system, I ran the pump with the fuel line off just to watch it push fuel (holy crap the walbro pushes some fuel!) but no matter what, the motor is acting like it isn't getting fuel. Is there a purge procedure I'm missing? Any help is appreciated!
  4. I posted this thread in the wrong spot in the first place...Mike keeps locking it when I post it in electrical...so engine people...well...here's what I've got. With the help of the handy dandy multimeter, I found that the White/Purple wire out of the stock Nissan KA24E was switched 12v power. When the key was flipped it had 12v on it for about 3 seconds and then the relay flipped and it had no power. I was assuming this was to prime the fuel pump and then the ECU was telling it to shut off so that it didn't dead head. I grounded my Walbro to the frame using 10 gauge wire, ran the white/purple wire to the positive terminal on the fuel pump, hit the key, BOOM...pump ran and then "timed out". I would have thought with empty fuel lines it would have primed longer, but it didn't. I hit the key again to start it, no fuel pump. I also didn't hear the fuel pump relay clicking any more. Was it just happy coincidence that my fuel pump relay went bad RIGHT THEN when I was testing things? Is my theory correct about the voltage dropping off that wire? Should I try to test the pump/system with a constant 12v source just to see if the motor will get fuel? The motor does run...I splashed fuel into the throttle body and it ran correctly for about 45 seconds...which was music to my ears. I also thought about my fuel filter. I ran one between the pump and tank of course, but to have the correct fittings, I ran it "backwards" to the way it said to mount it. From simply blowing on it from either end, it seemed to work the same either way, but perhaps that caused an issue? There are 4 other wires on that harness that didn't register any voltage when the key was hit, could those have something to do with it? THANK GUYS!!
  5. Hopefully this post doesn't get locked.... With the help of the handy dandy multimeter, I found that the White/Purple wire out of the stock Nissan KA24E was switched 12v power. When the key was flipped it had 12v on it for about 3 seconds and then the relay flipped and it had no power. I was assuming this was to prime the fuel pump and then the ECU was telling it to shut off so that it didn't dead head. I grounded my Walbro to the frame using 10 gauge wire, ran the white/purple wire to the positive terminal on the fuel pump, hit the key, BOOM...pump ran and then "timed out". I would have thought with empty fuel lines it would have primed longer, but it didn't. I hit the key again to start it, no fuel pump. I also didn't hear the fuel pump relay clicking any more. Was it just happy coincidence that my fuel pump relay went bad RIGHT THEN when I was testing things? Is my theory correct about the voltage dropping off that wire? Should I try to test the pump/system with a constant 12v source just to see if the motor will get fuel? The motor does run...I splashed fuel into the throttle body and it ran correctly for about 45 seconds...which was music to my ears. I also thought about my fuel filter. I ran one between the pump and tank of course, but to have the correct fittings, I ran it "backwards" to the way it said to mount it. From simply blowing on it from either end, it seemed to work the same either way, but perhaps that caused an issue? There are 4 other wires on that harness that didn't register any voltage when the key was hit, could those have something to do with it? THANK GUYS!!
  6. I've completed my KA24E swap into my truck, but I need to wire the new fuel pump up. I'm using the ENTIRE hardbody wiring harness, and I'm going to ground the pump to the frame. Now, I ran across this wiring diagram which is supposed to be for my wiring harness... However, when I looked at my harness, here is what I had plugging into the fuel pump. None of the colors match. Anybody have ANY idea which ones are switched power that I can use to power the pump when I flip the key?
  7. I have come to a problem...This is the connector that was plugged into the fuel pump on the nissan...none of the colors match. Any help?
  8. Thanks so much for clearing that up. YOU SIR ARE A HERO AND A SCHOLAR! The other wires can just be blocked off? I don't need them? THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
  9. Crap...now I'm embarrassed. I looked on every site but this one. I do still have questions though. For instance, in the picture, it says the color of positive to the Fuel pump is whatever is left EXCEPT black/pink or black/yellow. So I can put a ring terminal on that and hook it to the Walbro + side and then run a ground from the Walbro to the frame? Do I need to land the other two wires to anything? That seems awful simple! Keep in mind I'm using the ENTIRE stock Nissan Harness, nothing from the Datsun at all. I'm guessing the dashed box represents the factory ECU? I'm a little confused on what the Can/Am Box is...unless that's the wiring block they were custom building. Just need a little help understanding, that's all. THANKS!
  10. Sorry to flood the forum with posts, but I'm getting really close to driving my truck for the first time in 5 years and I'm getting pretty excited. I have a KA24-E and I know on the DE's you guys use a pathfinder cable I think. Do you know if they DOHC and the SOHC throttle bodies take the same cable end? I have the rest of the Nissan truck also, so would it just be easier to swap the Nissan gas pedal into the datsun so the ends matched? Let me know if you guys have any hot set ups on what to use. I'm hoping to drive the truck for the first time in WAY TOO LONG tomorrow.
  11. Good News! For those unfamiliar with my project, I took a KA24-E and put it in my 620...which shouldn't be a big deal, but I used ALL of the original Nissan wiring...because I plucked everything from a running/driving truck I owned and my Datsun wiring was butchered to the point of no return to fix it. ANYWAY...today I had good weather and I pulled the ignition switch out of the nissan, secured a few grounds, charged my battery...and...it turned over! I still don't have the aftermarket external fuel pump wired in. I just poured some gas in the throttle body and let it run until it burned everything up. I can't find the wiring diagram for the Nissan fuel pump ANYWHERE. I even downloaded about 60 pages and printed it out hoping I could find it, and I found nothing. I'm using a Walbro pump, it just needs a power and a ground, and since I'm using the stock Nissan harness, which has the relay built in, if I just knew which color wires were power and which was ground on that harness, I should just be able to put ring terminals on those and be good to go correct? I think there are 4 wires going to the connector that plugged into the "in tank" fuel pump on the nissan. I'm guessing 2 of those were for fuel level or a low fuel pressure warning code. Can anybody help out here? If I'm not able to use the stock Nissan harness, I just need a good ground to the frame and then where is the best place to wire into to get a key'd on/off. I don't want to run an extra fuel pump switch. Wire guage recommendations if I have to wire it in myself? THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!
  12. Mike, I went over to a friends and Ohm'd it out, I had 4 blacks to figure out and we ruled out one because it was a heavier gauge than the others, and then 2 of them went to the same connector, and I had 2 on one side, so that took care of that leaving just the one. It looks like they are all grounds, but it's good to know they're all good to go. Thanks for the help man!
  13. Mike you're just killing it today! Ok, well it's just weird, at the final connector one of them is black on one side of the connector and red/blue on the other...gonna have to ohm them out to make sure this is right. Thanks for the advice!
  14. Hey guys, I stole my KA24E from my 1994 D21 and I'm taking all of the wiring from the nissan and putting it in my Datsun. However, I was trying to take the fuel pump harness out of it today, and it wouldn't come out without removing the bed and dropping the tank...so I did the most horrible thing on earth....and cut the wires. No big deal I thought, I would just splice everything together...until I found 2 black wires... There are 4 total wires, a yellow/green, yellow/brown, white/blue and then the 2 blacks. Are these both grounds? What happens if I don't get them correct? Thanks for the help!
  15. Thanks Mike, I got out to the truck today, opened the passenger door, and that brake line was laying on the seat...Sorry I over looked that! It's hooked up, and then I spent the next 2 hours bleeding the brakes...by myself...HOLY CRAP is there enough bleed points on these trucks? Everything seems great, but it still isn't running, so I'm not sure what the pedal feel will be like when it has vacuum from the motor, I know when it was running with the L20B it didn't have much pedal. Anyway...THANK YOU!
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