Jump to content

What did you do to your truck today?


Madness

Recommended Posts

Took out alternator and repaired the broken mounting bolt on the bottom of the alternator mount.

 

REinstalled alternator.

 

 

Listened to very strange "rattly/whirry/loose sound coming from bellhousing area that I thought was coming from alternator mounting bolt being broken and alternator flexing back and forth.

 

Hauled broken washing machine to the dump...clutch is on it's last leg.

 

Parked in driveway.

 

Planned clutch repair,,,and inside of bellhousing inspection plus rear main R-R

Link to comment
  • Replies 2.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I worked on a couple of my datsuns today, I bought new calipers for my 71 datsun 521(has 620 disc brakes) and put them on in the rain, drove it around the block and they seem to work, I was tired of bleeding them every morning, otherwise I had to pump them to stop. Then I decided to see if my newly aquired 1966 datsun 520 would run, I put a battery in the truck, took out the existing coil and put in a known good one, wired the neg side of the coil to the dist. and the positive side to the batt. I removed the cap and opened the points, no spark/power, hmmm, after a little while I figured out the wire inside the dist. to the points was smoked, made a new one, opened the points and was rewarded with sparks. :rolleyes: Put the dist. cap back on and poured a little gas down the carb and jumped the starter, the carb started puking fuel down the throat because the float don't float anymore, I removed the fuel supply from the carb and jumped the starter again, it started acting weird right away, at first I thought the starter would not shut off, as I wasn't jumping the starter anymore but the fan was still turning making a electric motor sound, I was standing there trying to figure out what was going on when I realized it was running very slowly, maybe max. 500 rpm and very quietly and smoothly. I could not beleave it, I touched the exhaust manifold to make sure, it was getting warm. It was running off that shit gas in the bowl.:unsure: I don't know about the rest of you, but I never had an engine that sat for years start like that, like it was run yesterday. I let it run for maybe 4 to 5 minutes at an idle, and reved it once after warm, and shut it down because it had no coolant in it. Sometimes I want the engine not to work so I can scrap it without any thoughts about it later, this thing ran sweet, now I don't know what to do. wayno

Link to comment

i got the motor in and now having problems with the tranny bolting up. i can't get it all the way in. i think it is because the collar i have for the throw out bearing is to long or i cant get the splines to line up. So if anyone can give a some advice that would be great. i had a l20 in and now i put a l16 in so could it be that the throw out bearing can't go back far enough and is hitting the pressure plate the is roughly a quarter inch difference between the 2 pressure plate the l16 one stick out further

Link to comment

My first post on this tread regarding my 1966 520.

 

Today, I located replacement door window fuzzy strips at my local hardware store. 29 cents per foot. 10 feet should be enough for the four strips. (Since I do not have any of my photos hosted I cannot add any photos of the project.)

Keith

Link to comment

i got the motor in and now having problems with the tranny bolting up. i can't get it all the way in. i think it is because the collar i have for the throw out bearing is to long or i cant get the splines to line up. So if anyone can give a some advice that would be great. i had a l20 in and now i put a l16 in so could it be that the throw out bearing can't go back far enough and is hitting the pressure plate the is roughly a quarter inch difference between the 2 pressure plate the l16 one stick out further

 

If you had the L16 clutch and PP off, you will need an alignment too to set the clutch disc in the center so when you mount the tranny the input spline will line up. If the L16 clutch wasn't disturbed it should fit. Use a flashlight and inspect the pilot bushing in the end of the crank for damage or missing pieces that have fallen down and are jamming. The L16 will have 200mm PP on it for sure and will need a longer release bearing collar than what could be on from the L20B clutch so can't be that. The L20B is likely a 225mm if from a truck engine and should have a shorter collar. It should still bolt up ... it just won't operate properly. Get the L20B release bearing and collar out of there and get one for an L16 so you're sure it will work. Get a new release bearing on it and pack with grease... they come dry.

 

Here's some I have. The 3 tall ones are likely 225mm the shorter are likely 240mm. A 200mm would be even taller than these because the 200mm PP won't be as high above the flywheel.

 

transreleasebearings2Large.jpg

Link to comment
If you had the L16 clutch and PP off, you will need an alignment too to set the clutch disc in the center so when you mount the tranny the input spline will line up. If the L16 clutch wasn't disturbed it should fit. Use a flashlight and inspect the pilot bushing in the end of the crank for damage or missing pieces that have fallen down and are jamming. The L16 will have 200mm PP on it for sure and will need a longer release bearing collar than what could be on from the L20B clutch so can't be that. The L20B is likely a 225mm if from a truck engine and should have a shorter collar. It should still bolt up ... it just won't operate properly. Get the L20B release bearing and collar out of there and get one for an L16 so you're sure it will work. Get a new release bearing on it and pack with grease... they come dry.

 

Here's some I have. The 3 tall ones are likely 225mm the shorter are likely 240mm. A 200mm would be even taller than these because the 200mm PP won't be as high above the flywheel.

 

i figured out what it was and i used a half in drive extension wrapped in tape for the alignment tool since i didnt have one. The bearing collar i had with the l20 and it was to long. i got it all on and i couldn't move the fork at all. Also the pp from the l20 was thinner then the one for the l16. so now i am hoping i used the right collar out of the 5 i had.

Link to comment

Today, I fabricated a front crankshaft bolt that accepts the hand crank rod. My J13 was missing the bolt. I purchased a bolt for a Metropolitan. The Metro used an SAE thread, and the J13 uses metric. So we had to machine the old SAE threaded shaft and plug weld a Metric threaded shaft.

Keith

Link to comment

I worked on the 720 dually today, was trying to figure out why my diesel engine was losing water, but when it cooled off it would suck the hoses flat. There was plenty of antifreeze in the over flow container, and it would overheat sometimes for no reason that I could figure out. I changed an iffy looking hose, bought a new thermostat and installed it, and it still was acting funny. It turned out that the overflow hose to the container was clear, but the short hose going to the bottom of the container was big time plugged. I hope the problems go away. I also changed the guage cluster, I now have dash lights again. wayno

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.