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brake bleeding procedure


oukippy

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Hello,

 

I've replaced many parts of my front drums (wheel cylinder, brake shoes, springs) because the left cylinder was dead.

I've made a  purge but it doesn't seem to be enough because we only purged the front brakes. I tried to drive a little bit, the pedal course is not good, similar to the clutch pedal...

 

I want to know the correct procedure for a complete purge.

My car was manufactured in 11/76 so I believe it's the 77 FSM that I must follow :

 

Master cylinder front

master rear

NLSV front

front wheels

rear wheels (left one first)

nlsv rear

nlsv center

 

Do you confirm ?

 

additional question: is it better to replace the whole brake fluid ? I've put DOT4 but I don't know what was in it before (probably dot 3).

I was thinking about pumping the fluid from the master cylinder to same time but I don't know if it's a good idea.

 

Thank you,

 

ouki

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3 hours ago, oukippy said:

 

Master cylinder front

master rear

NLSV front

front wheels

rear wheels (left one first)

nlsv rear

nlsv center

 

 

 

This is the procedure for the '78 truck (per the '78 FSM) with disc brakes on the front. I don't see why it would be different from an all drum truck like the '77

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Hello,

Back to my brake problem. I had a leak on  the front left flexible because of a bad copper ring. Now it's fixed and brakes are better.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to do the whole bleeding process because the right rear bleeder is out of order. Is it possible to buy only the bleeder or do I need to change the whole wheel cylinder ?

 

1581762424-rear-right.jpg

 

I saw that rockauto are selling rear wheelcylinder but I'm not sure if it's sold with the bleeder included:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1977,620+pickup,2.0l+l4,1210138,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+cylinder,1952

 

 

Edited by oukippy
picture
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Is that bleeder broken off as it looks like it is?

If it is broken off you will likely need to remove that bleeder housing that is held on by the bolt going into the brake cylinder, I don't know if you can buy one new, but either you get that bleeder out of it or you find another one, and your going to have to get your brake line off of it before you can remove it.

Where you are located makes this a lot harder to deal with, are your brakes spongy/soft?

 

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3 hours ago, wayno said:

Is that bleeder broken off as it looks like it is?

If it is broken off you will likely need to remove that bleeder housing that is held on by the bolt going into the brake cylinder, I don't know if you can buy one new, but either you get that bleeder out of it or you find another one, and your going to have to get your brake line off of it before you can remove it.

Where you are located makes this a lot harder to deal with, are your brakes spongy/soft?

 

 

A little bit soft but brakes shoes, wheel cylinders and springs are totally new in front so I think it's normal .

It seems broken but not leaking brake fluid fortunately.

I think I'll need to replace the whole wheel cylinder, it will be easier. Consequently I'll change the brake shoes too...

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Do the brake cylinders come with them "Y" pieces?

 

This is the part you need as your brake bleeder needs to be replaced so you can bleed the rear brakes, the problem is of you remove yours and cannot get whats left of the bleeder out then it becomes a problem, you can sorta bled the brakes with that bolt but I am not sure how well that will work, you need to have an extra in case yours is too far gone as it looks sorta ugly.

001.jpg

 

I expect the one in the photo above is from a Datsun 521 which is SAE, your 620 is metric, you need to find a metric one so your brake line will fit it.

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That is what you need in the photo, they are showing it as an assembly so I hope you will get everything you see, but it has to be for a 620 as they have metric brake line fittings.

 

 

4 hours ago, oukippy said:

 rockauto doesn't fully describe the product but if they deliver what is shown on the picture, it should include the Y part.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=484186&cc=1210138&jsn=11

 

Edited by wayno
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8 hours ago, bilzbobaggins said:

If you do not get a Y pipe, there is a 620 one on or in my tool box somewhere.  Pm if needed.  Oh shit, you are in france.  That could get expensive.  I hope you get it from rock.

 

Thank you very much for the offer. I'll buy the rockauto ones. I think it's WYSIWYG.

If it's not the case I'll let you know. By th eway Rockauto is asking $15 for the shipping by Fedex. USPS is less then $10 usually but I don't have the choice each time.

Edited by oukippy
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  • 1 year later...
19 hours ago, jbirds510 said:

Rock auto isnt as big of a savings as it used to be..Most of the time I get a better deal from autozone after you take into account shipping costs. I only go to the rock when I cant find it anywhere else.

I use Rock Auto for their excellent part number cross reference, and then I order the parts somewhere else. Rock Auto uses shipping as a profit center, which I hate, and they also ship from many locations and each package comes with its own freight charge. That pisses me off. So Thank you, Rock Auto, for the great part number resource, but until you change your shipping policies, I will not purchase from you.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I use Rock Auto for their excellent part number cross reference, and then I order the parts somewhere else. Rock Auto uses shipping as a profit center, which I hate, and they also ship from many locations and each package comes with its own freight charge. That pisses me off. So Thank you, Rock Auto, for the great part number resource, but until you change your shipping policies, I will not purchase from you.

 

 

 

It takes work, but sometimes you can shuffle parts to get them all in the same shipment and come out with a good deal.

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On 7/17/2021 at 9:16 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I use Rock Auto for their excellent part number cross reference, and then I order the parts somewhere else. Rock Auto uses shipping as a profit center, which I hate, and they also ship from many locations and each package comes with its own freight charge. That pisses me off. So Thank you, Rock Auto, for the great part number resource, but until you change your shipping policies, I will not purchase from you.

 

 

I agree 100%. Did a $200.00 order and it had over $100.00 in shipping from six different locations!

Needed to return some stuff and it was the same deal. Had to go back to each origin location so separate shipping charge for each one! 

Would have to be the last resource for me to go down that road again. 

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@Doobie Yes it came with the bleed hardware, just not the mounting hardware.

 

The shipping game is frustrating sometimes on rockauto, but they have started showing which warehouse the items ship from before adding it to the cart. Before you had to add everything to see where it was coming from. It's still cheaper than most auto part stores, but not all the time. I've only ever had one bad experience with rockauto, I ordered 2 brake rotors and only one fit. I ended up exchanging twice which still didn't fit. I had a local machine shop hone the rotor to fit. 

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