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Everything posted by grannyknot

  1. The brake & gas lines are done, I widened the exhaust pipe hole in the rear cross member and the Ermish Racing exhaust pipes arrived as well as the DBX Flowmaster muffler. I bought the DBX separately because I've used them before and I think they have richer sound than the Super HP that Ermish sells. I was ordering a few more rubber parts from http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-510-parts.html that I missed on my first order and notice the Roll Center Adjusters/ Bump Steer Spacers they sell, they're $35 per set! That's a 1/3rd the price of everyone else, I ordered a set and they are quality pieces, 10.9 grade bolts and they fit perfectly. So there is no more avoiding it, time to put the mask and ear protection on and start making a mess.
  2. It is, starting to look like a car again. That style of rear spoiler comes down and touches the paint every time you close the hatch and will eventually scuff the paint right off. 3M makes a good protective clear film that is hardly noticeable, https://www.amazon.ca/Clear-Paint-Protection-Vinyl-Film/dp/B073X7WF5J/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=31R0IRCEN6OZV&dchild=1&keywords=3m+clear+protective+film&qid=1610540606&sprefix=3M+clear%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNEcwTks3UEVQTlNaJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTM4MTc4M0tUQjFTNDY1WjE3USZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzY2NjA4NkhNMkg2RlVZQ0xNJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== It's all really coming together!
  3. I have accomplished a few things since the last post, figured out the engine mount situation and built the trans mount, the driveline angles are done and the driveshaft shortened. I haven't actually started the engine yet but I think everything is wired correctly with regards to the Can-am box, the Datsun wiring harness was taken apart, cleaned repaired where necessary and re-wrapped. The transmission console has been roughed in, installed the doors and panels and got the gaps looking pretty good except for the hood, need to spend more time on the D/S hood gap. Picked up some sticky looking Falkens 195/60/14, hope they are not too big. I lengthened the brake pedal arm to gain some better leverage, I've never tried it before so interested to see what the results are, easy enough to re-instal the stock pedal if I need to. The car is up on the rotisserie now so everything just got a lot easier to access, the rear quarter panels arrived and are next on the list after I finish the new gas and brake lines, these guys, http://fedhillusa.com/ make the best Cunifer gas & brake lines I've ever used, the lines are thick walled so really resist kinking. The gas lines need a tube bender but the brake lines can pretty much be bent by hand, a rub with 0000 steel wool brings them up to a warm shiny glow.
  4. I built each bumper mount pivot bracket at 10", no good, way too bottom heavy, cut them up and settled at 5.5", now it's a bit top heavy but still manageable. I think if I had settled at 6.5" it would be a neutral spin. I can raise the car up a few more inches to clear the roof if I need to but prefer to have some weight resting on the rain gutter, it makes the whole rig steadier.
  5. Thanks, that is considerably more than what I thought it would be, the measurement on the back appears to be about 9" from the top 2 bumper bolt holes to the center of the pivot tube. The front is harder to say but it looks like about 14", would you say that's about right? Also it looks as if the rain gutter of the roof just cleared the center tie holding the front and back pivots secure.
  6. I'm at the stage where I'm just about to get the 510 up on the rotisserie and wondering if someone knows where the center of gravity is on a 510, how many inches above the bumper mounting bracket holes? I'm guessing about 3-5", my rotisserie isn't adjustable so I have to make the mounting brace right the first time. Thanks
  7. Sorry about that, I didn't notice your post. Took measurements today and it was the shorter of the 2 sleeves that brought the distance to exactly 92mm.
  8. You were right, #47 black/white. All the lights and the fuel pump turn off with the key, Thanks. I was wondering if was possible to hook up the OBD 1 wires so I could read the codes?
  9. Thanks for replying Jeff, the Key Pwr is the 12ga blue/red stripe which is taking power from the black/white wire that use to go to the old coil. I just disconnected it and the ECCS and Fuel pump continue to run so I guess I should check the #46 & #109 ECU Bup next? I just edited the 1st post, all 3 circuits come on with the ignition key, turn the key off and only the RUN circuit turns off, ECCS and Fuel pump remain on until the battery is disconnected.
  10. 1973 510 with a KA24DE I have the Can-am box all wired up, not all the colours match because I had to extend a few of the wires that weren't long enough to reach but everything is wired properly - pretty sure. I haven't been able to start the engine yet but the rest of the electrical system is all working perfectly. The problem at the moment is when I turn the power off at the key the fuel pump keeps running and the 3 lights on the Can-am box stay lit for 10-15 mins. Not sure where to start on how to solve this one? Thanks
  11. How do you know she is 18+, or do you just want to believe that? Regardless of what I think, the fact is your disgusting fucking pig, go jerk off on that.
  12. A is the correct orientation, although in the real world it probably doesn't make a lot of difference.
  13. 12-13 yrs old maybe? I think this has crossed the line into Pedophilia. Even if this girl is 20 yrs old she appears to be a child and we all know we shouldn't be looking at it. I have no problem with pornography but this is something else. I'm not jumping on you @goes2fast you mange to find some of the most amazing looking women I've ever seen so please keep up the good work but anything coming close to Pedophilia is abhorrent and disgusting.
  14. Don't remove the tape, that's what is holding the magnets in place, it says it in big red block letters on the first page of the instructions. Also the Pertronix module doesn't like having power going to it if the engine isn't running. So if you are working on the car with the ignition power on for any length of time disconnect the module or it will get fried. Here's the instructions in case you don't have them, http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/pertronix_instructions.pdf
  15. And he admits that, "I had plans to take it to the next level but just dont have the bond with this vehicle required to see it through.This car has a loooooong history on the internet - google "510 SR20VE" and you will find this car."
  16. grannyknot

    ka24de info

    Have you read through the previous 5 pages, there's lots of good NA info.
  17. Found them, staring me in the face.
  18. That makes sense, the brake pedal was from an automatic and I had to cut it down so a manual brake rubber pad would fit over it.
  19. When I removed the 4 bolts that hold the diff in the rear cross member I noticed there were I think 4 spacer bars or maybe washers that hold the diff in the center of the cross member, well I have put them somewhere so safe I can't find them. I haven't been able to find a good exploded diagram of the rear end so was wondering if anyone had a pic of these spacers that they could post up so I know what I'm looking for? Also, I noticed that there is a momentary switch that is actuated when the gas pedal is to the floor,(this is a 73/510) just wondering what this sensor is for or what it cuts power to? Thanks
  20. I've done that as well until someone pointed out that the vinegar gets wicked up the wires under the plastic sleeve and can't be rinsed off. I don't know how much harm that will cause, if any but that's when I went back to sand paper just incase .
  21. I don't know of anywhere that would have replacement clips but to get the contact surfaces clean again I take a strip of 220 grit sand paper, roll it up to the dia. of a fuse and slide it in from the side.
  22. Are you talking about the original glass fuses, Ive restored 4 early Zs and most of the fuses were original and still working perfectly.
  23. Sure you could, you would have to pull the spade terminals out of the white plastic connectors to rearrange them to match the stock 510 wiring harness and you would have to use the original fuse box as the template. But I would suggest that it's not an upgrade but just a change, the old fuse boxes were well made and 48 year old glass fuses work just as well as the new plastic ones. I'm willing bet that the new box isn't made in Japan and it will be made of very cheap materials. I don't mean to sound like I'm jumping on you cause I'm not, a pet peeve of mine is that so many things are called upgrades when in fact they are not better, just different.
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