oukippy

Thank you very much for the offer. I'll buy the rockauto ones. I think it's WYSIWYG. If it's not the case I'll let you know. By th eway Rockauto is asking $15 for the shipping by Fedex. USPS is less then $10 usually but I don't have the choice each time.

rockauto doesn't fully describe the product but if they deliver what is shown on the picture, it should include the Y part. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=484186&cc=1210138&jsn=11

A little bit soft but brakes shoes, wheel cylinders and springs are totally new in front so I think it's normal . It seems broken but not leaking brake fluid fortunately. I think I'll need to replace the whole wheel cylinder, it will be easier. Consequently I'll change the brake shoes too...

I answer to myself, it's possible to buy the bleeders alone: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1977,620+pickup,2.0l+l4,1210138,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+bleeder,1676 but is it a good idea ?

Hello, Back to my brake problem. I had a leak on the front left flexible because of a bad copper ring. Now it's fixed and brakes are better. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to do the whole bleeding process because the right rear bleeder is out of order. Is it possible to buy only the bleeder or do I need to change the whole wheel cylinder ? I saw that rockauto are selling rear wheelcylinder but I'm not sure if it's sold with the bleeder included: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1977,620+pickup,2.0l+l4,1210138,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+cylinder,1952

You will probably prefer the stock ones :

In my opinion, it's more : toooooo many options. I'm thinking about aluminium rims. 15" to 17" maximum. I saw some options here in France, with different prices, and different looking style : option 1 option 2 option 3 option 4

Just to be sure that Mike saw the question.

Last week I went to a local shop. I didn't find what I was interested in, asked the vendor who told me: "I don't have this in the store, go to the website, give me the reference you want and I will order it for you." I finally ordered it by myself in order not to drive 50 km a second time.

I assume that 6.6 mm is the outer diameter ?

Hello, I've read many topics here but wasn't able to find the answer (or to understand it correctly 😁). I'm thinking of replacing my stock 14" wheels by something bigger but I want it to be plug and play. I don't want to use spacers or to bore out the rims. My 620 is full drums (1977). It is a little bit lowered (between 1 and 2 inches, no block in the back but a spring leaf was removed). Am I right writing the following ? 620 Bolt pattern = 6x139.7 (or 6x5.5") 620 Thread Size = M12 x 1.25 620 Center bore = 3.6" 620 Offset = ? Is it possible to find rims in 15, 16 or 17 inches directly plug and play ? Could someone show me a set that will fit ? Thank you ! oukippy

Thank you for the help. I thought it had to be close to the OEM size but now I understand it's not very important. I agree that prices are much lower online.

Hello, I've replaced many parts of my front drums (wheel cylinder, brake shoes, springs) because the left cylinder was dead. I've made a purge but it doesn't seem to be enough because we only purged the front brakes. I tried to drive a little bit, the pedal course is not good, similar to the clutch pedal... I want to know the correct procedure for a complete purge. My car was manufactured in 11/76 so I believe it's the 77 FSM that I must follow : Master cylinder front master rear NLSV front front wheels rear wheels (left one first) nlsv rear nlsv center Do you confirm ? additional question: is it better to replace the whole brake fluid ? I've put DOT4 but I don't know what was in it before (probably dot 3). I was thinking about pumping the fluid from the master cylinder to same time but I don't know if it's a good idea. Thank you, ouki

Hello, I have a fuel leak issue. It seems to be between fuel pump and carburator. I want to replace the falty fuel line but I'm wondering what is the correct size for it ? I was told that it's 5/16 inner diameter (8 mm in metric system, I believe). Do you confirm ? Thank you very much ! ouki

I've found the leak without completely removing the air cleaner : My screw driver seemed to be enough to repair it and I didn't see anything else leaking. Now my problem is that I can't put back the clamp that grips the carburetor throat because I don't see under the air cleaner. Is it supposed to be easy ?