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About grannyknot

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    Advanced Member

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    1973 2dr 510/KA24DE, 1972 240Z/S54

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  1. Yikes, it has been a while. here's what has been going on since the last update. I got the shell stripped down to the metal, replaced the quarter panels, refinished the Cyclone II wheels and got the new tires mounted, 2 coats of epoxy primmer on everything and just finished laying on 2 coats of high build dark grey primer today, so far everything is looking pretty smooth but will start first thing tomorrow with guide coat and find just how smooth. Would kill for a bigger shop right about now.
  2. grannyknot

    Fuel filter? 1984

    The silver canister at the bottom of your pic is the fuel filter, the other one at the top right of your pic is the fuel pump.
  3. I'm pretty sure the KA24DE fuel pressure is between 43-48psi so it would be safe to assume the single cam engine is similar but as 2eDeYe says above the regulator controls that so just get yourself a generic 60 psi pump.
  4. I heard about the 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone twenty years ago and have been using it since then, it works well. The only real problem is finding a spray bottle where one of the materials in the pump mechanism doesn't get melted by the acetone, I've found a few over the yrs that hold up for 5-6 yrs but when you go to buy another one you have to start the hunt all over again.
  5. Now if you had to replace rockers then I can see tacking in some braces to keep the dimensions perfect, where people get into trouble is trying to do too much at one time. If major work needs doing then I compartmentalize the removal of metal, one rocker at a time, when that is done then move on to one floor pan, when that is finished move to the other side.
  6. A fully stripped 280z shell weighs 530lbs, I know because I have weighed one, I won't get a chance to weigh this 510 until it comes off the rotisserie but I'm willing to bet it is going to come in under the weight of a Z. I'll post pics of the weigh in on this thread when it comes off. But lets call it 500, 250lbs on the front bumper mounts, 250lbs on the rear, an old 2x4 that's been outside for a decade can handle that, much less a rigid steel unibody. It's not a Lincoln Continental.
  7. Wow, that's a good deal, I'm sure someone is going to snap that up.
  8. Muscle GT makes them so Futofab should be able to order them, scroll to the 7th page down, https://drive.google.com/file/d/14hJ4sqotry7WE6clq3Ana3n1SGM5omKy/view
  9. Oh yeah, some of the factory welds are just brutal, they look like they were done without the gas turned on. Your right of course, I probably give the OEM panels too much credit for accuracy, but as I mentioned I'm just happy that I'm able to complain and that I have choices of makers of aftermarket panels, for some old cars there is just nothing available. What media did you use for that Z?
  10. You're most welcome, I knew they would be put to good use. They look great. Maybe when the world returns to normal and you're down this way for Zfest we can swap cars for a little drive.
  11. See if you can sell some other toys and get yourself $6,000 in hand, that might get you something without too much rust. At least I haven't seen much at 3k that was much better than a parts car.
  12. I'm using AlfaParts/Wolf Steel and KFV panels at the moment and I'm having to do major massaging on both of them. I thought the KFV panels would be a lot more accurate than they are mostly because they look so OEM but I assure you they are not. Parts like the A pillar panels should fit like a glove over the front of the rockers but they don't, same with the rear lower inner and outer quarter panels, they should nest into one another but that is not the case. It's best to think of them as patch panels and just cut out the bits you need and splice them in. I'm NOT saying they're
  13. Randy, thanks, I had forgotten all about Muscle Car GT. 👍
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