Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Cars
    1973 2dr 510/KA24DE, 1972 240Z/S54

Recent Profile Visitors

1,849 profile views

grannyknot's Achievements


Rookie (2/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • First Post Rare

Recent Badges



  1. grannyknot

    ka24de info

    Not sure, I'm having a problem with the idle hanging high for a few seconds before dropping back down to normal, I read in a thread from the archives on the Zilvia forum that the auto ECU would cause that so I set about trying to find out what type my ECU was, it's a manual. A bunch of extra searching turned up guys with both types of ECUs having the hanging idle problem, so it doesn't seem to have anything to do with whether the ECU is auto or manual and must lie somewhere else. I've ordered a new Coolant Temp Sensor because I read somewhere the CTS might effect the idle.
  2. grannyknot

    ka24de info

    Just some info that might be helpful to someone in the future, Kruked over on the Zilvia forum circled the component on an S13 ECU that confirms it came from a manual stick shift car, if it doesn't have the CJ25 then it came from an auto car.
  3. Whatever it is, save it! Looks kind of Triumph like but there is some Sunbeam and maybe some Fiat going on there.
  4. Noll, not sure if you are aware because you're a young guy but all those old gaskets were asbestos so try and take them off with a blade and never use a wire wheel.
  5. Finally got the engine running consistently, idle is about 900rpm, can't seem to get it lower without it starting to stumble, advance at idle is 19 degrees but when I blip the throttle the revs go up to 1200-1300 and hang there for 4 seconds or so before backing down to 900. The throttle cable isn't hanging up anywhere but the revs are. Does that sound like a recognizable symptom of something? Thanks
  6. This is with the clam shell cover off.
  7. My car is a 2 door and this is where the shoulder strap attaches, maybe someone with a 4dr can jump in here.
  8. The seat belt shoulder anchor hole should be near the red circle.
  9. Thanks demo, I was thinking it might be the Grn/Blk because it goes to the coil, condenser and power transistor. Just read through about half or your 620/KA build thread and will finish it off tomorrow, great build. Glad to see that I'm not the only one running into these problems.
  10. I p/u an Autometer 2300 Tach for the 510/KA24DE swap, I've disassembled it and installed the mechanism behind the stock tach face plate. The wiring instructions aren't specific about if I can use the No#2 pin tach wire from the ECU and I don't want to blow the new tach by hooking it wrong. My question, can I use the No#2 pin tach wire from the ECU for the signal or should I try to find the ignition coil Negative wire? If so, which wire is the Neg. coil wire? Thanks
  11. I understand why you would disconnect the TPS while setting the idle but why disconnect the IACV, isn't that valve bringing in just the right amount of air to allow the engine to idle?
  12. When I tore down the idle air adjusting unit I forgot to record how many turns up from the bottom the idle screw should be, can anyone tell me how many turns that screw should be out? Thanks
  13. Okay, this is wrong, what I said above is not correct. The old Blk/Wh coil wire is actually the KEY PWR, the GND wire is straight from the body ground, the IACV goes to RUN 1 and #36 ignition from the ECU goes to RUN 2 So I think the wiring is all correct the problem seems to be the Blk/Wh wire isn't getting power while in the start position, not sure why. I may have to find a different source for the KEY pwr if I can't figure it out.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.