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1967 Galaxie 500 Project, aka Jules


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4 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

Yes, but it's a trade-off I am unwilling to make. This is still a fair bit bigger than the stock cap, just not as big as the GM cap. 

 

Just make sure you get the right shaft length so the cap clears your manifold. The place I ordered from got the wrong distributor in the box that was marked for the 351W and 351C. I made it work but I had to mod my manifold. 

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Two steps forward, one step back...

 

Got the crank pulley painted and fitted, then spent too long trying to figure out how to mount the alternator. Got it to fit and line up with the crank pulley only to find out the bolts that hold it on needed to be 7/16" not 3/8". So half the bolts I just bought are no good, and I need to go get more...

 

image.jpeg.7ccae6c271c8ceae8c765a4f2bd23c9d.jpeg

 

 

Yes, that's a Chevy alternator on a Ford engine. It fits much better, and is easier to find in a high amperage 1-wire configuration. 😋

 

And yes, I did take all that back apart and I cleaned and painted the brackets. But looking at this photo, I think I am going to take that triangle bracket and clearance it a bit on the bottom so the alternator fan clears it better, so I can get more range of adjustment... 

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1 hour ago, Chopper Jim said:

Nothing wrong with a GM alternator on a Ford. We use them on  everything.

 

Same. We use these for cars with a lot of electrical load (this is a 105amp) or the compact Denso for low load stuff ( the 60amp model). I went this way because the electro-hydraulic power steering needs about 20-25amps, and if I do decide to go EFI, the 60amp is just not going to cut it. 

 

Speedway is now offering a 90amp Denso alternator, but I have not tried one to see if that claim is legit. Maybe some day...

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2 hours ago, Racer X 69 said:

Why not go all out and use a Leece Neville 200 amp alternator?

 

s-l400.jpg

 

Taking a wild guess here because I don't know that alternator, BUT......

 

I'm thinking it's probably three or four times the price of what is actually needed to do the job.

 

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Duncan said:

 

Taking a wild guess here because I don't know that alternator, BUT......

 

I'm thinking it's probably three or four times the price of what is actually needed to do the job.

 

 

 


A couple hundred bucks probably.

 

Also bigger than the Delco unit he has, and a bit more output. They used on heavy trucks and construction equipment.

Edited by Racer X 69
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On 8/19/2022 at 9:19 PM, EDM620 said:

I used to use a local motor rewind shop and have the stock unit boosted output to 90, no idea if that's done anymore.

If you can find a rewind shop absolutely.

 

There are a few left, but most rebuilding is done in Mexico anymore, so the domestic shops are slowly fading away.

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On 8/19/2022 at 11:19 PM, EDM620 said:

I used to use a local motor rewind shop and have the stock unit boosted output to 90, no idea if that's done anymore.

There was a place here in town who used to do this.  I'm not sure if a) they are still around or 2) if they still do that.  So... I guess y'all can just ignore this post.  Thanks for your time, I'll show myself out.

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On 8/19/2022 at 10:14 AM, Racer X 69 said:

Why not go all out and use a Leece Neville 200 amp alternator?

 

Because this...  😁

 

On 8/19/2022 at 12:32 PM, Duncan said:

I'm thinking it's probably three or four times the price of what is actually needed to do the job.

 

It's also likely double the weight. The 10SI alternator is already more weight than I want, and possibly more power than I need.  😁  

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Bracket clearanced for the fan and everything painted and installed for the (hopefully) last time...

 

image.jpeg.aeabe7c1ecbf733b8c15a25b5e5ccdd6.jpeg

 

 

Lower adjustment bracket is off in that photo being cleaned and painted. Now just need to find a water pump pulley, and we might be ready to mount the clutch and trans and get ready to chuck this bad boy in...  

 

Just kidding, I'm definitely going to replace the spark plugs and set the distributor timing as best I can now, not later. 😁

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8 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

Bracket clearanced for the fan and everything painted and installed for the (hopefully) last time...

 

image.jpeg.aeabe7c1ecbf733b8c15a25b5e5ccdd6.jpeg

 

 

Lower adjustment bracket is off in that photo being cleaned and painted. Now just need to find a water pump pulley, and we might be ready to mount the clutch and trans and get ready to chuck this bad boy in...  

 

Just kidding, I'm definitely going to replace the spark plugs and set the distributor timing as best I can now, not later. 😁

 

I used to have a good model for a billet bracket I made to go on the 1-Wire alternator to 351W.  

 

 

 

 

Edited by Mattndew76
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On 8/30/2019 at 8:20 PM, datsunfreak said:

Mulling over a few choices for wheels now in fact...

 

A little bit JDM...

 

rkr_1580_5x114__0_magblk2_1k_large.jpg?v

 

On 9/8/2019 at 2:28 PM, DaBlist said:

JDM!

 

www.ebay.com/itm/4-PCS-ROTA-RKR-WHEELS-17X8-5-10-17X9-5-5x114-3-20-R-HYPER-BLACK/293041017686?hash=item443a9b1356:g:DPUAAOSwuehbSUwf

 

 

Only took 3 years to finally follow through on that...  😄

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Did not like how the adjuster slide thingy sat, so had to introduce a second kink to it closer to the water pump so that it not only sits nice and level, but the alternator easily slides through it's range of adjustment (without having to loosen ALL of the bolts)...

 

image.jpeg.7b9d4dc77f5666366c55d40e98f46071.jpeg

 

 

The alternator pulley lines up well with the crank pulley. Still need to source a (correct) water pump pulley, though...

 

Even with the fatter GM alternator (fatter than the stock Ford anyway), clearance at the back is still decent. It's tight but nothing touches, and I still have good access to the charge post...

 

image.jpeg.94ec16f181f935055b14e1aad35ba2eb.jpeg

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Well, we got the van and the Galaxie swapped out so we could start prepping to get the engine in. I thought I would go ahead find TDC on #1 to set the timing, but ran into a bit of a snag. Which turned into a huge snag.

 

I tried to roll the engine over, but it would only go so far then it would stop dead. Nothing you could do would let it get past TDC on #2 and #8. So I removed the pan and intake looking for restrictions there and found nothing. So that meant the heads had to come off...  😒

 

Once the left head was off we could see a lot of carbon on the pistons, but nothing that would stop it from rolling over...

 

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I got out a wire wheel and scraper and got to work getting that off...

 

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Fortunately, rather than piecemeal the gaskets I needed initially, I had bought a complete gasket set. So I able to put that head back on with a new head gasket.

 

Once we took the right head off, the story was slightly worse. The #2 piston (the one that wouldn't go past TDC) had a more serious carbon problem. Enough that some loose pieces had fallen down at some point and gotten squished between the piston and the head (closed chambered head), and it was not allowing the piston to go over TDC. With all that cleaned out and that head reinstalled, it now turns over butter smooth. 

 

Except now I need to get a new intake gasket...  🙃

 

So I started the day hoping to have it off the stand and the transmission mounted so we could get it in the car, but ended the day with a negative amount of progress... 🤬

 

Here's hoping for more progress on Wednesday...

 

 

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My favorite 'murcan V8 plugs come from Japan, of course...  😁

 

image.jpeg.3160a413372b3250d9f5672aeb5e2854.jpeg

 

 

Got the distributor installed and figured out where #1 is, marked it, and set timing at 15 degrees for now...

 

image.jpeg.e0e5e7c9e9e394f6cac001fbcbaeb062.jpeg

 

 

 

And of course, wires from Japan too. Got them on and routed how I wanted them to go. I had to shorten two of them that were way too long...

 

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And made the world's shortest coil wire...

 

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With the coil mounted there, all of my engine wiring (except the alternator) will go on one side, so I put in some nylon loom holders on the intake...

 

image.jpeg.2d768e43df91a2599e08154f8c506e69.jpeg

 

 

The alternator wiring, since it's just one wire, will only be a short fat wire from the alternator to the starter, so easy peasy...

 

I think we are just about ready to take it off the stand and mount the transmission now...

 

image.jpeg.a019199418481ee97d78fcc306bd0920.jpeg

 

 

Of course, we can't do that because of one thing I feel compelled to "fix" that may never bother anyone but me, and that is you can see the bellhousing of the transmission in the engine bay. So I am going to scrub down (and probably paint) the transmission before bolting it on the motor. 😄

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  • datsunfreak changed the title to 1967 Galaxie 500 Project, aka Jules

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