EDM620

Cab is installed for another test fit, identifying 4 points of minor contact that will be addressed shortly today - 2 on upper control arms & 2 on power steering box. Have sorted out the wiper motor fitment as the 720 mounted in the engine bay vs the 620 mounting behind the dash. New mount plate made and wiper arm modified. Why not just use the original motor? Well the 720 wiring harness & motor have different connection as the 720 featured intermittent wipe, not an option on the 620. I might was well have everything work! Next up is to fit the 720 steering column, noting the mounting plate is very different between the 2 generations, with the 720 mount having a bend and looking like it went through the firewall a bit lower than the 620 did. This is my opportunity to make the alignment and position fit relative to the dash, the seat, and most importantly me. Comfort for long haul cruising!

The main area of issue was the lip that is supposed to lay up against the area where the hinges are, the profile didn't match very well but was massaged to fit. I've been squeezing in what little time has been available and have got the cab pretty near ready to put onto the frame and begin sorting the cooling/electrical/steering bits. A quick look at the heater assemblies show some significant differences between the 620 & 720 units, suspect there's gonna be some bastardization involved as the plan is to use the 720 system (more CFM, future potential of AC, etc.) PLUS the 720 steering column doesn't look like it'll line up to the 620 mounts & firewall. My intent is to try to get things to look more factory than rat rod. Anyway, the cab rust patches are complete and cab is fully undercoated, and engine bay is primed. Hope to have the cab mounted up this weekend or by next if I have time.

Where pray tell did you source the windshield here in AB? I had months ago discussed my future needs with a shop, but wasn't ready yet to acquire one.

I'm no Mopar guru, but as I understand the Viper V10 is an aluminum block whereas the truck V10 is a cast iron block. So different transmissions would be logical. I was going to attach a couple pics of another Viper V10 swap, but for some reason they won't upload.

Picking away on the fit of the fenders, the leading end of my hand built rockers didn't quite fit the fenders properly so I now have to rectify this (on both sides) before I go further. Gimme a bigger hammer dammmit! I massaged the non-OEM right fender and it now otherwise fits pretty good, the left didn't need much since it had previously been part of a 620. The left side door release has been moved 2" rearward and should operate normally, as long as there are not issues with the window moving up/down.

Buddy spotted an ad on Kijiji for an "rust-free Arizona" 620 for $3000 if picked up in AZ, or tack on another $4000 if the seller brings it up North. 1979 Datsun 620 Pickup Truck | Classic Cars | Edmonton | Kijiji Not that I'm looking to buy, but wondering on estimated values for these trucks. If it runs, does 3 large seem reasonable?

Oh absolutely it was. LOL, like the first gen Honda Civics ever lasted more than 80,000km (50,000 miles). But reverse doughnuts were a blast!

Well I can't imagine either fitting without some mods, and getting the mass of the V10 a bit rearward would be preferable anyhoos. Ah F-it, do the V10 thingy...

Work on the project has been continuing though at a reduced pace thanks to work being quite busy lately. Time or money - never the 2 in abundance together! My iPhone has decided lately that it won't send my photos to my email so no pics until I get that sorted out. I have been working on resolving the problem about my door releases being now too far forward thanks to the dash swap, and at the same time I'm working on the rusted-out door bottoms. I have worked on the fit & alignment of the replacement front fenders - both being aftermarket - and with the body lines now matching up I will have the ability to make sure the door body lines look proper. Have I mentioned that I hate doing bodywork? Still have a good number of small rust-throughs around the rad support/headlight bucket areas to deal with, primarily cosmetic and ultimately hidden so I won't be spending too much time on those. I really want to get the cab back onto the frame so I can start with the electrical and plumbing connections

and people have claimed that Japanese cars rusted prematurely! So the car was totalled IN a police station??

Coming together very nicely Noll, I appreciate the true amount of work that has gone into the build, and that you're building it to be driven. The first twisty road will be nirvana! I have fallen behind in my build due to work, so have been watching your progress and enjoying!

In typical British build quality of the period... probably as good as the doors fit from the factory!

Anyone one of you looking for a money pit? I have the phone number for it... 🤣🤣🤣🤑