EDM620

I'm of the opinion that it's best (though terribly tempting otherwise) to get the bulk of the bodywork done earlier rather than having to take stuff apart again, also 'cause once you're driving it the getting around to painting will likely get pushed further and further back. At least get the primer on. This is my planned approach on my build more or less, with the intent of taking the cab (with doors, fenders & hood) to my body guy for finish work + painting before I finalize mounting up to the chassis. Getting the box done will be pushed back as I haven't even begun working on that yet b

LOL, that reminded me of my misspent youth - I used to "borrow" a neighbors car regularly that had the ignition in the dash, kept 2 short wires in my pocket...

Well it is removeable like a key...

This is looking really good Noll, all coming together as it should 👍

LOL I been there too, really sucked when your jacket wouldn't dry out for a couple weeks mine was a '75. My first car was a B210 that needed a head gasket and the LF fender straightened out, paid $250 for it. Totalled it a couple years later and the insurance pay-out got me the 550F. Neighbor had a 521 that was our daily ride to work, odo had been wrapped a few times and front fenders flapped like wings, trans was so worn you could shift 2-3 or 1-4 in a straight line, and even though the block was cracked & it hated having water in it, it refused to die. We a

Then you'll definitely appreciate this

Please be my neighbor 😈

Durable and lightweight, I'd want to have lots of fasteners or maybe double side sticky tape onto the doors though as I think you'd have lots of drumming in that application.

The cap/fill solution I have takes that into account. And because if it's smaller size I will have more options on positioning.

I would be more inclined that way, time and whatever drops in my lap will tell 😁

that's based on theory anyway, longer range plan is to swap in something more powerful anyhow - my target is to have about 300 HP on tap. And NO to an LS swap, I'd go with many other choices before Bow-Tie, it's a thing with me.

I don't see why it wouldn't work for the intended application, certainly is quite durable and lightweight, and pretty easy to trim to size.

my old Dodge powered motorhome was like that - metal floor with a nice hot exhaust manifold right below it. Right foot was always roasting! Make a heat shield...

I'll be sticking with the dual plugs, as I fully ported the head and am optimistic of future turbo - the dual plugs at least on paper should squeeze even more power out. Worst case is engine swap... The Honda rads I suspected of inadequate cooling based on displacement OEM tasked with and real estate of cooling area. I'll be shrouding the fans and those will be on electric thermostats to optimize cooling as demands require. I have a small recovery tank that provides me with the fill, and once everything is in if needs demand + space is available, I can upsize. Than

I reached out seeing as he has a box lower panel, but presently just the one, I'll be looking for all 4.