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About EDM620

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
  • Cars
    '75 620, '03 Camry, '08 F150 SC
  • Interests
    Building cars

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  1. Glad to see you've gotten back on track there. The old tin worm has taken too many projects - gotta fight it!
  2. EDM620

    620KC onto 720 frame

    Well I have a dilemma. The cab had an aftermarket pop-up sunroof put in some years ago but the gasket is rotted away. Amazingly it hadn't leaked. Problem is these sunroofs have vanished from the marketplace long ago and the original gasket is NLA. So what do I do about the big hole. Cheapest option was to replace the gasket but my searches have turned up nothing. Next option is to make a patch panel (I saved a roof skin off a regular cab) but with that runs the risk of roof warpage. 3rd option is to bite the bullet and fork over $ for a new aftermarket sunroof (Hollandia 100) or eve
  3. He's a great source for fabrication, another Canuck too. Hopefully the link works. How to repair rusty door bottoms - YouTube
  4. Maybe a slight build up of varnish in the bore?
  5. Hope she's looking for the whipping cream...
  6. Looking really good. Are you going to fill in the gap or router in a groove for the rim to fit into?
  7. Check where the cowl floor meets up with the firewall and inner fender
  8. This is what I made. I'd guessed at the COB and was off, so it's a bit top heavy. Had originally intended to design in some adjustability but decided that I really only need it flipped once (we'll see how that goes) and I still have my gantry to help rotate it around. The 620 KC cab is shorter than your Z and weighs just 660 lbs, so this is quite manageable. The rotisserie works very well and spins easily, I made it so I can pin it every 45 degrees but can clamp it at any position. The span is adjustable via UniStrut, and it's on casters so I can easily move it about in my gar
  9. A solid 620 is an amazing find! Have a real good look at some critical points for rust - the cab mounts are very prone to rust, there once was a cab mount where that big hole is. And look up under the dash at where the firewall, inner fender & cowl meet up. Water was supposed to drain from the cowl through that opening, but I suspect silt eventually creates a dam and voila you get rust through to the inside of the cab. Likely a good source of the water that eventually results in the floor rusting through. Mechanical parts aren't hard to find, here
  10. Amazing how time & money are never in abundance together, projects are built this way. I'd considered the same tip-over jig but since I still need the other half of my garage for parking the wife's car I ended up doing a rotisserie, likewise built primarily of lumber I had on hand. Since I'm only working with the weight of the cab (660 lbs) my structural needs are less.
  11. I'll add that the Z motor is cross-flow vs the L motor intake & exhaust are both on Left side. Like Mike said, use the Z mounts for engine & trans to position the motor correctly. Neither radiator will be useful, the 620 rad doesn't have the inlet & outlet in the right places, and the 720 rad is too wide for the space. IF your 620 rad is actually in good shape, a local rad shop could relocate the top neck, probably not worth the cost. I'm using the rad for a VW (see my build here 620KC onto 720 frame - Page 2 - 620 - Ratsun Forums ) which fits the space and has the outlets in the r
  12. There are only 2 actual frame lengths with the regular cab short box being the shorter frame. The KC/short box and the regular cab/long box frames are the same length, only the 2 rear-most mounts for the cab are in a different position. All other body attachment points are the same. The 720 frame is largely unchanged but the tail of the frame is slightly longer to accommodate a rear bumper from the factory, plus an extra pair of mounting holes at the very front. Again, the body attachment points are unchanged - style is different but the geometry remains unchanged. I believe the D21/Hardbody c
  13. Frame build is looking good!
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