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1967 Galaxie 500 Project, aka Jules


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2 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

The ball in the palm of your hand is like a heim joint or ball and socket and totally ergonomic.

 

I like a ball best also, but for it to be in the best position I would need to make a taller shift lever. That's why I am trying the taller knobs. I've already remade almost every part of this set-up twice...  😄

 

I have had a tall bubble knob (like that gray one in the photo) in my last few daily drivers. In fact, I think this knob in particular came out of my daily that I had before the current one. Current daily has the same knob but in a blue/purple fade to match the paint

 

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On 1/3/2023 at 11:24 AM, 67galaxie500 said:

Yes, the pushrod looks like it is not parallel to the trans (recognizing that the perspective may be skewed in the pic).

 

It is not parallel to the main shaft, like you would want it to be ideally. In hindsight, I could/should have gone with a slightly shorter pedestal. 

 

Unfortunately, we are sort of figuring this out as we go, and getting it dialed in has meant remaking/changing a lot of it.

 

On 1/3/2023 at 11:24 AM, 67galaxie500 said:

I can see how this would introduce some unneeded and potentially problematic movement.

 

I think most of the up and down movement in the push rod is caused by how far that rear pivot is from the shifter base. I am reasonably confident if we lengthen the push rod and attach it to the shifter "behind" the stick, it would reduce most (if not all) of that.

 

On 1/3/2023 at 11:24 AM, 67galaxie500 said:

I assume the Heim joints aren't allowing too much lateral movement.

 

Yes, these style joints do not allow more than a few millimeters total of lateral movement, and I believe that's mostly due to how long the push rod is. 

 

4749T141p1-d03c-digitall@4x_636849065642

 

 

On 1/3/2023 at 11:24 AM, 67galaxie500 said:

I'm thinking of moving to a manual trans on my 67 Galaxie. Might have to gin up something like this.

 

It's not a bad way to go if you want/need to do it on a low budget. 👍

 

A nice T5 or T56 would be more ideal (shifter at the rear), but a lot more expensive. The M5R2 transmissions are strong, plentiful, and cheap. 

 

 

It is worth saying, we could stop here and it would work perfectly fine, and likely last forever with no issues. But a few more minor tweaks could only make it better. 

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On 1/3/2023 at 11:24 AM, 67galaxie500 said:

I'm thinking of moving to a manual trans on my 67 Galaxie. Might have to gin up something like this.

 

 

Also, welcome to Ratsun!  👍

 

It's a weird place ful of weird people, but it's also a lot of fun.  😁

Edited by datsunfreak
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5 minutes ago, datsunfreak said:

I think most of the up and down movement in the push rod is caused by how far that rear pivot is from the shifter base. I am reasonably confident if we lengthen the push rod and attach it to the shifter "behind" the stick, it would reduce most (if not all) of that.

 

For clarity, because I don't think I am explaining it correctly, I want to take the original tab I made...

 

image.jpeg.8688f7d7b07109ec04863c5a2b69acb3.jpeg

 

 

And attach it here...

 

image.jpeg.b4e7a8044f29f4942e30beda92e54ffb.jpeg

 

 

Then, lengthen the rushrod to reach it. I think this will make it work a lot better. We shall see...

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On 1/6/2023 at 7:41 PM, EDM620 said:

Are you intending to replace the blue bracket with your original or is that an additional chunk?

 

The blue bracket will likely stay to keep the shifter lever forward enough to my liking. Unless I end up making a new stick that has the bend built into it from the beginning. Might be smart to have one less attachment point...

 

The original chunk will get sandwiched between the blue bracket and shifter on the bottom end instead of the top end (like it is now). Unfortunately, this means lengthening the push rod, which I don't want to do but should do anyway...

 

Edited by datsunfreak
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(I can't figure out how this forum lets you quote a prior post when creating a new one - when I click "quote," nothing seems to happen other than a check appearing there. So, copying and pasting for now):

 

"It's not a bad way to go if you want/need to do it on a low budget. 👍

 

A nice T5 or T56 would be more ideal (shifter at the rear), but a lot more expensive. The M5R2 transmissions are strong, plentiful, and cheap."

 

I have a 390 V8 in my 67. If I make any change to the drivetrain, it's either (1) keep using the 390 and add a trans that fits it, which may require something beefier than you are using, given the torque; or (2) just plug in a complete new (or more likely, new to me) engine + trans. I'm currently looking at options for both. Sourcing a wrecked, late-model Mustang GT for option 2 is an attractive possibility.

 

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13 hours ago, 67galaxie500 said:

 

(I can't figure out how this forum lets you quote a prior post when creating a new one - when I click "quote," nothing seems to happen other than a check appearing there.

 

I think you maybe are clicking the + sign instead of on the word "Quote"? The + sign is for "Multi-Quote" so you can quote multiple posts in one thread. 

 

13 hours ago, 67galaxie500 said:

If I make any change to the drivetrain, it's either (1) keep using the 390 and add a trans that fits it, which may require something beefier than you are using, given the torque; or (2) just plug in a complete new (or more likely, new to me) engine + trans. I'm currently looking at options for both. Sourcing a wrecked, late-model Mustang GT for option 2 is an attractive possibility.

 

The 390 is likely above the torque limit of this trans, especially if you drive it very spiritedly. The 351W is probably near the upper limit of what it can handle. It's only rated for 350tq. 

 

I like the Mustang dropout option a lot, and wanted to do that, but it was just too far out of my budget.

 

The 351W fit the bill for me since it was affordable, relatively new, and only 20-30ish pounds heavier than a 302. 

 

Truth be told, what I really wanted to try was either a twin-turbo 3.5L from an F150/Transit, or the ecoboost 2.3L from a newer Mustang. 

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On 1/14/2023 at 4:03 PM, datsunfreak said:

Truth be told, what I really wanted to try was either a twin-turbo 3.5L from an F150/Transit, or the ecoboost 2.3L from a newer Mustang. 

As the owner of a modified 2.3 Mustang, I would recommend the 3.5 ecoboost. My car is currently getting it's 3rd head gasket in 61,000 miles...

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15 hours ago, zhent said:

As the owner of a modified 2.3 Mustang, I would recommend the 3.5 ecoboost. My car is currently getting it's 3rd head gasket in 61,000 miles...

 

Well, I'd be lucky to put 6k miles on it, so...   😁

 

The 3.5L is having issues of it's own with cam phasers draining their oil out so they rattle on start-up if you don't prime it first. 

 

Windsors are pretty bulletproof/idiot-proof at least...  😄

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15 hours ago, zhent said:

As the owner of a modified 2.3 Mustang, I would recommend the 3.5 ecoboost. 

 

My thinking behind using the 4cyl is weight savings. It would be a lot lighter than a V8/V6. Based on the 0-60 numbers (low 6s) of an ecoboost Mustang, and the fact that it weighs quite a bit more than my car, it would be very quick with that engine, possibly mid-5s. 

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I thought the issue with 2.3 head gasket was in the 2015-16 Focus RS. The Mustang version is supposed to be pretty damn solid. BTW, one of those open pipe in a Galaxy 500 would confuse the snot out of some folks. Love it!

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20 hours ago, zhent said:

As the owner of a modified 2.3 Mustang, I would recommend the 3.5 ecoboost. My car is currently getting it's 3rd head gasket in 61,000 miles...

Well, the Jag has a V12 right now... how about two Ego-Boost V6s? 

 

7 liter, quad turbo, V12 anyone?

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59 minutes ago, dimlight65 said:

Well, the Jag has a V12 right now... how about two Ego-Boost V6s? 

 

7 liter, quad turbo, V12 anyone?

 

Hold the phone, I'm thinking a 3.5L X 2 would be just the thing for that fancy bike of yours. You got the right shifter for it.

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2 hours ago, paradime said:

I thought the issue with 2.3 head gasket was in the 2015-16 Focus RS. The Mustang version is supposed to be pretty damn solid. 

 

yes and kind of.

 

The Mustang version is fine for 90%+ of the people who buy them, especially with the automatic. Once you start bumping up the power with add-ons and engine re-tunes things get a lot touchier. Ford in their infinite wisdom put a coolant channel on the tops of the walls between the cylinders from 2015-2019 and didn't beef up the head gasket to prevent the pressure from washing it out and leaking coolant into the cylinders. Later engines they changed the block design and made it an internal channel.  They're also prone to head lift when the boost pressure gets up above 23 on the stock turbo.

 

My original head gasket went at 35k miles and because of my mods I ended up paying for it out of pocket. The stock replacement went around 61k and this time I'm getting an improved head gasket and ARP studs. I should probably upgrade the turbo...

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19 minutes ago, zhent said:

 

yes and kind of.

 

The Mustang version is fine for 90%+ of the people who buy them, especially with the automatic. Once you start bumping up the power with add-ons and engine re-tunes things get a lot touchier. Ford in their infinite wisdom put a coolant channel on the tops of the walls between the cylinders from 2015-2019 and didn't beef up the head gasket to prevent the pressure from washing it out and leaking coolant into the cylinders. Later engines they changed the block design and made it an internal channel.  They're also prone to head lift when the boost pressure gets up above 23 on the stock turbo.

 

My original head gasket went at 35k miles and because of my mods I ended up paying for it out of pocket. The stock replacement went around 61k and this time I'm getting an improved head gasket and ARP studs. I should probably upgrade the turbo...

If you do upgrade your turbo I'd recommend the garret GT-X 2867R, Gen 2 Disco Potato. I'm running it in my SR20 swapped 510  making 400HP like it was factory installed. Seriously next level shit.

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On 1/18/2023 at 10:57 AM, Duncan said:

On Roadkill, Finnegan has a '68 Charger that has a 2JZ swapped into it.  It REALLY sounds funny as hell...

 

That would be a cool swap, but if I went straight 6, I could not resist a Barra. Ya know, being from Ford and all...  😁

 

 

1280px-Barra_245T_Engine.JPG

 

Edited by datsunfreak
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4 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

That would be a cool swap, but if I went straight 6, I could not resist a Berra. Ya know, being from Ford and all...  😁

 

 

I agree with you.  You were just mentioning unexpected sounds.  I remembered that one as particularly unexpected and different 🙂

 

Borla makes a kit now that emulates different motor sounds for your E-Mustang.  Holy poseurs..

 

 

 

 

Edited by Duncan
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On 1/18/2023 at 5:44 AM, datsunfreak said:

 

Yes it would. As well as outrunning almost any muscle car on the street and then telling them "it's just a 4cyl"...

Nothing better than lighting up a V8 with a 4 banger. When I was a kid in the early 80s, I built an L20 510 with a cam, porting, and 44mm Webers. It looked like I dug it up from a grave and brought back to life with electrodes. I used to go down on Midway Ave, near the Naval Training Center hunting for swabbies with their shiny new Camaro/Firebirds. It wasn't a fair fight, but the bug eyed look on their face when a ratted out "rice can" pulled on them screaming at 8K rpm; it was priceless. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by paradime
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  • datsunfreak changed the title to 1967 Galaxie 500 Project, aka Jules

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