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Just bought a 521


mainer311

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1 hour ago, d.p said:

And @mainer311 what are you doing the pedal side? That other end of the lokr cable didn’t really work on my truck.  


It’s not a lokar. It’s some cheap shit I bought on Amazon. The split collars are aluminum and from McMaster. Mine are 3/8”. I’m running the clevis at the carb-end as seen in the pic, and then a cable knarp on the pedal side. Pedal throw was a little too far so I adjusted the floor stop a little further out. I then adjusted a little bit of play into the system by rotating the arm down a bit.

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9 hours ago, d.p said:

When you going to fire this fucker up?


Possibly today. I was doing more research on emulsion tubes and realized I have the wrong ones, but I should still be able to get it running with the wrong ones in there. I have a set of F11, and a set of F15, but I need the F16 or F2. I ordered a set of F2’s. Also have ITG filters and back plates coming from the UK.

Edited by mainer311
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If your carbs are mounted on soft isolators, be careful of that linkage bracket bolted between the carbs. The carbs may twist and break that piece or the ears on the carbs. One way to make sure the carbs don't twist individually is to install a backing plate between the air horns and the carb bodies. The backing plate also helps keep the carbs in synch with each other.

 

Like this -

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/af197/MattStoffregen/Datsun/.highres/Painter_Man_2300_Small_019_zps57lc4efi.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/af197/MattStoffregen/Datsun/.highres/Painter_Man_2300_Small_013_zpskio4ew3s.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/af197/MattStoffregen/Datsun/.highres/Painter_Man_2300_Small_012_zpsjplck69q.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/af197/MattStoffregen/Datsun/.highres/IMG_3084Small.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/af197/MattStoffregen/Datsun/.highres/IMG_0572Small.jpg

 

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15 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

@Crashtd420 Do you remember what emulsion tubes you ended up running in your carb?

Currently I believe I am running f8...

I think it came with f11, I tried f7 and settled with the f8.... 

I have that weber tuning guide... 

I can take some pictures of some of the tube info if that helps...

 

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11 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Currently I believe I am running f8...

I think it came with f11, I tried f7 and settled with the f8.... 

I have that weber tuning guide... 

I can take some pictures of some of the tube info if that helps...

 


I have F11, F15, and now F2. It came with the 11’s, and Pierce sent me the 15’s. I just got the F2’s. The 15 and 2 are identical, except the 2 are 7.5mm and the 15 are 8mm OD. Holes are in the exact same locations. If I’m reading that correctly, that should enrichen my mixture all the way across the main circuit since there is a larger “path” for fuel to come up the sides. The 11’s are 8mm OD, but have a set of holes further down, which leans out high rpm.

 

Some sites claim that a 2L motor should run 16 or 2. Other sites say that  2’s are only for ethanol race fuels. Conflicting information all over the place.

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1 hour ago, mainer311 said:


I have F11, F15, and now F2. It came with the 11’s, and Pierce sent me the 15’s. I just got the F2’s. The 15 and 2 are identical, except the 2 are 7.5mm and the 15 are 8mm OD. Holes are in the exact same locations. If I’m reading that correctly, that should enrichen my mixture all the way across the main circuit since there is a larger “path” for fuel to come up the sides. The 11’s are 8mm OD, but have a set of holes further down, which leans out high rpm.

 

Some sites claim that a 2L motor should run 16 or 2. Other sites say that  2’s are only for ethanol race fuels. Conflicting information all over the place.

It tricky because not every motor is built the same.... 

 

It's hard to describe but what I saw at the dyno was the emulsion tube moved the main curve closer or further from the transition regardless of the jets... it was more about when the main circuit gets started..

 

The f8 for me moved the curve closer to the idle transition cleaning up that dead spot, then I used the air corrector to richen the higher rpm...

If you have them try them....

I'm not sure how easily you will feel the difference just driving, the butt dyno only gets you so far. Having an air/fuel gauge is really helpful when getting it tuned just right or spending an hour or so on the dyno is also fun.....

 

Place I went did the driving and I just kept changing and trying things... the combo I figured out with my air/fuel gauge was actually the best out of any combo I tried... 

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13 hours ago, mainer311 said:

ITG’s just came in. This is about as perfect fit as you’ll ever get.

 

BLBtCNN.jpg

Looks pretty good. Make a nicer vent hose from valve cover and also turn the firewall clamp around to match the other 2 clamps on fuel line. Also please cut those battery hold down stems/bolts down, as you can see you have plenty sticking up.

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1 hour ago, mainer311 said:

Yeah. I would like to start with the best possible combination, but might need some dyno time.

I honestly think having an air/fuel gauge first would be better..

 

You can actually make changes while you drive around and see the information in a real work scenario..

I would do that driving home from work somedays.... I make a change at work and the another while driving if it didnt like the outcome....

 

The dyno was more too see if I did good or not, plus I could see what was happening at the top of the rpm curve... 

 

You could always remove it or hide when your done....

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1 hour ago, mrbigtanker said:

Looks pretty good. Make a nicer vent hose from valve cover and also turn the firewall clamp around to match the other 2 clamps on fuel line. Also please cut those battery hold down stems/bolts down, as you can see you have plenty sticking up.

Details, Ray. You and I think alike. I'm all about the details too.

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4 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Mr Tanker you missed the dirty used fuel line clamp.  You are slipping or was in a hurry!  LOL


Yeah, I’m not buying anymore of those. They’re stupid expensive. The problem is that the outlet from the pump is a R/A 1/4” barb with an 1/8” BSPT thread...which of course is impossible to find in a 5/16” barb. That leaves me with one 1/4” hose, and 5/16” between the carbs. I only bought clamps for 5/16 hose, so I had to use an old one off of my roadster. This isn’t tanker’s truck. Not everything has to be perfect.

Edited by mainer311
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3 hours ago, mainer311 said:


Yeah, I’m not buying anymore of those. They’re stupid expensive. The problem is that the outlet from the pump is a R/A 1/4” barb with an 1/8” BSPT thread...which of course is impossible to find in a 5/16” barb. That leaves me with one 1/4” hose, and 5/16” between the carbs. I only bought clamps for 5/16 hose, so I had to use an old one off of my roadster. This isn’t tanker’s truck. Not everything has to be perfect.

Has nothing to do with my truck. Yours is clean and nice. Just pointing out some obvious things that are free to fix. Also that’s why I hate the factory fuel pump location electric for me and run fuel line behind with -6 hoses. Is still looks real good. And I don’t have a truck I have. Frame. Lol

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