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Just bought a 521


mainer311

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42 minutes ago, mainer311 said:


Well, I wanted it to happen this spring. Realistically, for that to happen, I’d have to take some time off from work. I’ve been hitting little snags here and there that need to be ironed out. 

 

As long as my datsun done and driving I'd be happy to swing up when your ready and atleast help you get the motor swapped in....

 

 

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I feel like Pierce Manifolds doesn’t know what they sent to me. The throttle cross shaft fits through these risers on the manifolds, but they didn’t supply bushings, bearings...nothing. So now I have to fix this problem too.

 

UIojQe7.jpg

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I’m going to see if I can find some 3/8” ID, 1/2” OD flanged bushings and some small shaft collars. They didn’t give me any of those either.

 

can the gurus tell me if this is correct. I’m certain the timing looks good, but the tensioners have me a bit perplexed. It says with a new chain, the slack side uses the inner Siamese hole, which I have shown here. With the top of the guide “tangent” to the chain, the tensioner has a small ~0.100” gap from fully compressed.

 

6DuQTjz.jpg
 

Nlw0Z6w.jpg
 

uANsqpC.jpg
 

Also, why does the L20b get started on #2 vs. #1 like the L16/18?

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Push the tensioner all the way in and hold it there. Shove the slack side guide bottom as far to the right as you cam and tighten in place.

 

The notch and the horizontal mark are perfectly aligned.

 

Why #2? Because #1 would move the notch about the length of the horizontal mark to the left (about 40) and #3 would move it the length of the horizontal mark to the right of where it is now. Hainz says it's for emissions but that alignment of the horizontal mark and the notch are the same for all L 16/18 engines, so??? The L20B is 227.45mm tall the L16/18 blocks are 207.85mm a difference of 19.6mm, or 1.96 cm. The timing chain links are 1 cm long so a 2cm increase does not match the 1.96cm block height and the cam timing notch won't either. So move to #2 fixes it.

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10 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

Look at you, all fancy with that Nismo tensioner.

 

Man after what I went through with the non-nismo one popping out on my L16 (truck in shop for weeks before they could figure out the timing) there was no way I wasn't going to do the Nismo tensioner.  

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15 hours ago, mainer311 said:

I feel like Pierce Manifolds doesn’t know what they sent to me. The throttle cross shaft fits through these risers on the manifolds, but they didn’t supply bushings, bearings...nothing. So now I have to fix this problem too.

 

UIojQe7.jpg

 

 

Yeah looks like they didn't include them or a c clip to hold them into place.  On my Mikuni intake one of those holes is oblong (no idea how it happened) so I had to electrical tape the rod to get it tight.  

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15 hours ago, mainer311 said:

I’m going to see if I can find some 3/8” ID, 1/2” OD flanged bushings and some small shaft collars. They didn’t give me any of those either.

 

can the gurus tell me if this is correct. I’m certain the timing looks good, but the tensioners have me a bit perplexed. It says with a new chain, the slack side uses the inner Siamese hole, which I have shown here. With the top of the guide “tangent” to the chain, the tensioner has a small ~0.100” gap from fully compressed.

 

6DuQTjz.jpg
 

Nlw0Z6w.jpg
 

uANsqpC.jpg
 

Also, why does the L20b get started on #2 vs. #1 like the L16/18?

I would use the other hole so its a smooth transition on the slack side guide  like DP has his or get close to it. Not all the tensioners are the same. They look same but I had ones fir better and would be flush up against the housing(holder) other might have a slight gap.

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4 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I would use the other hole so its a smooth transition on the slack side guide  like DP has his or get close to it. Not all the tensioners are the same. They look same but I had ones fir better and would be flush up against the housing(holder) other might have a slight gap.

 

on the carb bushing maybe those "help" kits at O rileys  door bushings  maybe you can make them work for the throttle linkage bar

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/paint---body-repair-16614/body---trim-16771/door---window-16798/door-hinge-parts-11171/2fe8d8fec23b

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Just now, banzai510(hainz) said:

who is they?????????????

 

you did it yourself and see how EZ it really is.  Look perfect now

 

Local garage that my buddy owns and this was back in 2016 IIRC when I had the head redone on my l16.  First and last time its been to any 'mechanic' since I have owned it.  For sure I can do it with my else closed now. 

 

Speaking of which, can you replace a timing cover without taking the head off?  The alternator housing is broken on my L16 and I figure I might as well replace it while its stationary.    

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12 minutes ago, d.p said:

 

Local garage that my buddy owns and this was back in 2016 IIRC when I had the head redone on my l16.  First and last time its been to any 'mechanic' since I have owned it.  For sure I can do it with my else closed now. 

 

Speaking of which, can you replace a timing cover without taking the head off?  The alternator housing is broken on my L16 and I figure I might as well replace it while its stationary.    

Im not getting why the front cover needs to come off???? pull the alternator out then.  alternator has nothing to do with the front cover. Im not getting this.  I hope this isnt like Im going to the dentist and the dentist goes thru your ass hole to pull a tooth

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Im not getting why the front cover needs to come off???? pull the alternator out then.  alternator has nothing to do with the front cover. Im not getting this.  I hope this isnt like Im going to the dentist and the dentist goes thru your ass hole to pull a tooth

 

Lol I meant DIZZY mount not alternator.  But some people may prefer dentistry through the ass, who are you to judge them?!! 

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2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

 

on the carb bushing maybe those "help" kits at O rileys  door bushings  maybe you can make them work for the throttle linkage bar

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/paint---body-repair-16614/body---trim-16771/door---window-16798/door-hinge-parts-11171/2fe8d8fec23b

I swear those are the bushing kits that z stores sell for the 5 speeds for $40.  I want through 2 sets and could only get 1 of the 2 brass 'machined' bushings install in the trans and shifter.  

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DP whats the deal with the Dizzy? I dont like pulling the from cover after everything is back togethering running.  It seems to never seal up perfect again and leaks in the corners. rips the oip pan gasket ect......

If this on a engine stand at home I guess you can take the oil pain completely off and clean up and do it then

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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19 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

DP whats the deal with the Dizzy? I dont like pulling the from cover after everything is back togethering running.  It seems to never seal up perfect again and leaks in the corners. rips the oip pan gasket ect......

If this on a engine stand at home I guess you can take the oil pain completely off and clean up and do it then

 

Its on my old L16, not the L20b in the truck.  The hole where the dizzy mounts has one half sheared off.  I had jb welded it when it was still in the truck but now that its out and I have a spare L16 timing cover I figured I could swap it out.  Or I just drop the L16 in the ocean along with the 4 speed and sell the timing cover.  

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