Crashtd420 Posted March 22, 2021 Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 42 minutes ago, mainer311 said: Well, I wanted it to happen this spring. Realistically, for that to happen, I’d have to take some time off from work. I’ve been hitting little snags here and there that need to be ironed out. As long as my datsun done and driving I'd be happy to swing up when your ready and atleast help you get the motor swapped in.... 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 I feel like Pierce Manifolds doesn’t know what they sent to me. The throttle cross shaft fits through these risers on the manifolds, but they didn’t supply bushings, bearings...nothing. So now I have to fix this problem too. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Plug with nylon and drill out to size. 3 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 I’m going to see if I can find some 3/8” ID, 1/2” OD flanged bushings and some small shaft collars. They didn’t give me any of those either. can the gurus tell me if this is correct. I’m certain the timing looks good, but the tensioners have me a bit perplexed. It says with a new chain, the slack side uses the inner Siamese hole, which I have shown here. With the top of the guide “tangent” to the chain, the tensioner has a small ~0.100” gap from fully compressed. Also, why does the L20b get started on #2 vs. #1 like the L16/18? 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Push the tensioner all the way in and hold it there. Shove the slack side guide bottom as far to the right as you cam and tighten in place. The notch and the horizontal mark are perfectly aligned. Why #2? Because #1 would move the notch about the length of the horizontal mark to the left (about 40) and #3 would move it the length of the horizontal mark to the right of where it is now. Hainz says it's for emissions but that alignment of the horizontal mark and the notch are the same for all L 16/18 engines, so??? The L20B is 227.45mm tall the L16/18 blocks are 207.85mm a difference of 19.6mm, or 1.96 cm. The timing chain links are 1 cm long so a 2cm increase does not match the 1.96cm block height and the cam timing notch won't either. So move to #2 fixes it. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 The bottom holes are siamesed, so it really only has 2 positions. I can file the nubs off to make it a slot if that’s what you’re suggesting. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 No. Just get it as far to the right as you can Nd tighten it there. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Yeah, the bottom of the curved guide needs to be pushed in to be as close to the plunger as possible. I file the holes or even drill them to get the guide geometry right. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Dont know if this helps (or if its even right) but here is mine: 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Look at you, all fancy with that Nismo tensioner. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 10 minutes ago, mainer311 said: Look at you, all fancy with that Nismo tensioner. Man after what I went through with the non-nismo one popping out on my L16 (truck in shop for weeks before they could figure out the timing) there was no way I wasn't going to do the Nismo tensioner. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 15 hours ago, mainer311 said: I feel like Pierce Manifolds doesn’t know what they sent to me. The throttle cross shaft fits through these risers on the manifolds, but they didn’t supply bushings, bearings...nothing. So now I have to fix this problem too. Yeah looks like they didn't include them or a c clip to hold them into place. On my Mikuni intake one of those holes is oblong (no idea how it happened) so I had to electrical tape the rod to get it tight. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 28 minutes ago, d.p said: truck in shop for weeks before they could figure out the timing) there was no way I wasn't going to do the Nismo tensioner. who is they????????????? you did it yourself and see how EZ it really is. Look perfect now 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 15 hours ago, mainer311 said: I’m going to see if I can find some 3/8” ID, 1/2” OD flanged bushings and some small shaft collars. They didn’t give me any of those either. can the gurus tell me if this is correct. I’m certain the timing looks good, but the tensioners have me a bit perplexed. It says with a new chain, the slack side uses the inner Siamese hole, which I have shown here. With the top of the guide “tangent” to the chain, the tensioner has a small ~0.100” gap from fully compressed. Also, why does the L20b get started on #2 vs. #1 like the L16/18? I would use the other hole so its a smooth transition on the slack side guide like DP has his or get close to it. Not all the tensioners are the same. They look same but I had ones fir better and would be flush up against the housing(holder) other might have a slight gap. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 (edited) 4 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: I would use the other hole so its a smooth transition on the slack side guide like DP has his or get close to it. Not all the tensioners are the same. They look same but I had ones fir better and would be flush up against the housing(holder) other might have a slight gap. on the carb bushing maybe those "help" kits at O rileys door bushings maybe you can make them work for the throttle linkage bar https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/paint---body-repair-16614/body---trim-16771/door---window-16798/door-hinge-parts-11171/2fe8d8fec23b Edited March 23, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Just now, banzai510(hainz) said: who is they????????????? you did it yourself and see how EZ it really is. Look perfect now Local garage that my buddy owns and this was back in 2016 IIRC when I had the head redone on my l16. First and last time its been to any 'mechanic' since I have owned it. For sure I can do it with my else closed now. Speaking of which, can you replace a timing cover without taking the head off? The alternator housing is broken on my L16 and I figure I might as well replace it while its stationary. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 (edited) 12 minutes ago, d.p said: Local garage that my buddy owns and this was back in 2016 IIRC when I had the head redone on my l16. First and last time its been to any 'mechanic' since I have owned it. For sure I can do it with my else closed now. Speaking of which, can you replace a timing cover without taking the head off? The alternator housing is broken on my L16 and I figure I might as well replace it while its stationary. Im not getting why the front cover needs to come off???? pull the alternator out then. alternator has nothing to do with the front cover. Im not getting this. I hope this isnt like Im going to the dentist and the dentist goes thru your ass hole to pull a tooth Edited March 23, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) 1 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 I ordered up the stuff I need from McMaster. Some flanged teflon bushings, a couple teflon washers, and some aluminum shaft collars. Even picked up a hollow stainless tube. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: Im not getting why the front cover needs to come off???? pull the alternator out then. alternator has nothing to do with the front cover. Im not getting this. I hope this isnt like Im going to the dentist and the dentist goes thru your ass hole to pull a tooth Lol I meant DIZZY mount not alternator. But some people may prefer dentistry through the ass, who are you to judge them?!! 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: on the carb bushing maybe those "help" kits at O rileys door bushings maybe you can make them work for the throttle linkage bar https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/paint---body-repair-16614/body---trim-16771/door---window-16798/door-hinge-parts-11171/2fe8d8fec23b I swear those are the bushing kits that z stores sell for the 5 speeds for $40. I want through 2 sets and could only get 1 of the 2 brass 'machined' bushings install in the trans and shifter. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Mine was in a kit with varous sizes then I hammered them thru then drilled them out to size for the pin. Kinda like Kingpins in a 521 youinstall them they squeee down then one has to reem them out. I bought those plastic set sold by nissan and they lasted about a week. Plastic was aged or something they smashed fast 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 (edited) DP whats the deal with the Dizzy? I dont like pulling the from cover after everything is back togethering running. It seems to never seal up perfect again and leaks in the corners. rips the oip pan gasket ect...... If this on a engine stand at home I guess you can take the oil pain completely off and clean up and do it then Edited March 23, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 19 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: DP whats the deal with the Dizzy? I dont like pulling the from cover after everything is back togethering running. It seems to never seal up perfect again and leaks in the corners. rips the oip pan gasket ect...... If this on a engine stand at home I guess you can take the oil pain completely off and clean up and do it then Its on my old L16, not the L20b in the truck. The hole where the dizzy mounts has one half sheared off. I had jb welded it when it was still in the truck but now that its out and I have a spare L16 timing cover I figured I could swap it out. Or I just drop the L16 in the ocean along with the 4 speed and sell the timing cover. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 25, 2021 Report Share Posted March 25, 2021 sell the L16 front cover????????🤣 I got a stack of them I cant get rid of 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2021 Engine is basically together. Just need to throw the oil pump and drive in, then send the valve cover off to powdercoat. Carb linkage is pre-setup, but there are no provisions to hold the cable. Figures. 1 Quote Link to comment
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