banzai510(hainz) Posted June 1, 2023 Report Share Posted June 1, 2023 (edited) How I found mine was I pullled the starter tab wire and hit key to start and it was like 11 volts.most other Positve wires were closer to say what battery was reading, like 12.3v or whatever. I had swaps starters also then a week later same selinoid clicking happening again. then Hot Start relay in been good pretty much since. but a 12v wire dicect to the starter lug would test this if engages constantly when you check this out BIGTANKER on here swearsrs by Troy Ermish starters and says they fit the 521 for spacing. see what he says. and is a Denso design also.here is his photo. on a 521 but not a L motor. not the selinoid is in direct line to the starter trans hole and the motor is offset lower near the frame. the Hitachi is motor is direct line and eslinoid offset. Edited June 1, 2023 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted June 1, 2023 Report Share Posted June 1, 2023 The contacts don’t corrode, they wear away from EDM every time they close. Kinda like breaker points in a dizzy. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2023 Well I put that idea to rest... Jumping just the 2 big terminals only spins the starter motor... no bendix engagement.... I'll pull the starter tonight and warranty it again.... usually takes a day to get one from the warehouse but its supposed to be really hot tomorrow anyhow.... 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 1, 2023 Report Share Posted June 1, 2023 (edited) 14 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: 2 big terminals only spins the starter motor. I believe this is true(shit I cant remember.) that why they used that jumper wire to the selinoid tab to engage the bendix as in that link photo. If that dont engage then then that bendix is shot I would assume Crashed, I guess they can get burnt from arching when switch is released, kinda like points. But really I been doing the Vatozone O Riley Liefetime exchange as everybody else and swapping them out every 8 to 1.5 years starters and alternators. chinese brake .clutch masters every 4-5 years Edited June 1, 2023 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
Ooph! Posted June 1, 2023 Report Share Posted June 1, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said: Well I put that idea to rest... Jumping just the 2 big terminals only spins the starter motor... no bendix engagement.... I'll pull the starter tonight and warranty it again.... usually takes a day to get one from the warehouse but its supposed to be really hot tomorrow anyhow.... Jumping the two big posts that is how it will operate, it will just spin the electric motor not engage the relay. Using a screwdriver or a Ford relay you would apply 12v to the large post and the small post on the starter relay. Edited June 1, 2023 by Ooph! 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2023 1 hour ago, Ooph! said: Jumping the two big posts that is how it will operate, it will just spin the electric motor not engage the relay. Using a screwdriver or a Ford relay you would apply 12v to the large post and the small post on the starter relay. Ya I was just curious.... I think there are some starters that can do what I said but not the one I have.... Doesn't matter now I'll have another one to try Saturday..... Hopefully i'm right that the solenoid is faulty and the problem goes away.. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2023 I did play around with the starter tonight before I have to turn it in Saturday... I was curious to see how things worked on the bench, so I grabbed my jumper pack.... What was interesting was the bendix gear did move out when the starter motor spun, but I think that was just from it spinning.. But when I touched the trigger lead that thing shot out with so much force .... I did that a few times and 1 or 2 of those time it made the click but didn't move..... I'm going to mess with it tomorrow again to see if I can replicate it again ... 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 2, 2023 Report Share Posted June 2, 2023 FWIW, regarding Hainz's post about Tanker's starter clock position - Z cars have the solenoid tucked closer to the block than truck or 510 starters. Comparing stock OEM starters of course. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 5, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2023 Well I'm gonna jinx myself and say the new starter seems to be working as it should.... We shall see for how long..... What was wierd is the first one didn't look like what I gave in as a core.... had a bigger motor.... This newest one looked like the core I gave in the first time.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 5, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2023 (edited) Also put that bending rig I made to some use again.... I rode a motorcycle years back but kind of lost the love to ride, so it sat in the corner of my garage... it was fun in California but not so much in Massachusetts... well I'm letting my father use it as extra transportation while hes up here... half the year or so he is in the Carolinas... So this year I actually had to replace a few items... biggest item was new tires, since the ones on it were original from 2006... While doing that the front pads fell apart so I replaced those as well as some dry gas tank seals and a bad fuel valve..... Once I was done i went to put the saddle bags my dad was using and realized I had one more thing to fix.. How he never wrapped them up into the rear tire is a miracle... no support behind them and they just flopped around loose..... So I came up with a support the mounted with the back rest assembly.... Uses factory bolt holes, I added a couple bends to keep it off the fender and flare out enough from the swing arm.... Ready to bolt on for good... I used a piece of a big 5ft x 1ft aluminum sign I had.... been saving it to make a heat shield but I have plenty of it left.... Edited June 6, 2023 by Crashtd420 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2023 It's been a full week with no issue with the newest starter.... Goes to show you right out of the box a rebuilt unit can be defective... It's good thing its easy to swap the starter and it has a warranty.. 4 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2023 (edited) Lately I have been hearing a small rattle noise from the back of the truck when I go over bumps. I was able to rule out the tail gate chains and the exhaust system and heat sheilds... Today I crawled under the truck trying to replicate the sound and found it.. I think... I think it was the bars for my watts link.... the heim joint in the ends were rattling against the mounts.... I guess they were a little tighter when new..... At first I was going to just put an o ring on the outer edge but realized this wouldn't work since the center mount uses spacers.... and these o rings were larger than the diameter of the spacer.... So I used a smaller one that about the size of the center pivot.... Forgot the pic with the oring... I'll see if anything still rattles tomorrow.... Edited June 18, 2023 by Crashtd420 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 18, 2023 Report Share Posted June 18, 2023 Why isn't that jamb nut tight? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2023 (edited) 14 minutes ago, thisismatt said: Why isn't that jamb nut tight? Because I loosened it..... Edited June 18, 2023 by Crashtd420 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 18, 2023 Report Share Posted June 18, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said: Because I loosened it..... Edited June 18, 2023 by thisismatt 1 Quote Link to comment
Ooph! Posted June 18, 2023 Report Share Posted June 18, 2023 (edited) So you are saying you have a gap between the center ball and the outer sleeve OR there is space where the bolt passes through the center ball in the mount? Edited June 18, 2023 by Ooph! 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 18, 2023 Report Share Posted June 18, 2023 6 minutes ago, Ooph! said: So you are saying you have a gap between the center ball and the outer sleeve OR there is space where the bolt passes through the center ball in the mount? The rod rotates on the heim balls and then the outer shell/race of the heim clanks against the bracket. You could get some heim boots, but they aren't real cheap 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2023 32 minutes ago, thisismatt said: The rod rotates on the heim balls and then the outer shell/race of the heim clanks against the bracket. You could get some heim boots, but they aren't real cheap Yes this is exactly what's happening... Today was just a cheap fix with what I had in my garage... I'll look into the heim boots, I have also entertained the idea of better quality heims.... Till my cash flow increases this will probably be the fix for the summer... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2023 The temporary fix seems good... no rattles from the back of the truck this morning.... so it was definitely what I was hearing. Back to just the normal sounds.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2023 And I spoke too soon... Apparently the heims were only part of the noise and masking a small rattle I was getting from one of the exhaust stacks also.... I thought I fixed it but apparently I need to secure the muffler under the bed a little better too.. there is just a little to much wiggle and the pipe inside the stack is not maintaining its vertical position.... Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 20, 2023 Report Share Posted June 20, 2023 14 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: And I spoke too soon... Apparently the heims were only part of the noise and masking a small rattle I was getting from one of the exhaust stacks also.... I thought I fixed it but apparently I need to secure the muffler under the bed a little better too.. there is just a little to much wiggle and the pipe inside the stack is not maintaining its vertical position.... I guess you have no choice other than to throw those stacks away now? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2023 1 hour ago, d.p said: I guess you have no choice other than to throw those stacks away now? What add 2 more..... 1 per cylinder you say... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 20, 2023 Report Share Posted June 20, 2023 I sometimes make shims out of HDPE or nylon. Basically a large washer that I machine to fit tight against the ball of the heim, but not wider than the heim spacer total width. Another way you could permanently avoid this issue is to use misalignment bushings and widen the brackets that hold the heims. Bottom line - heims are always going to be a source of noise, especially when using less expensive joints. As an example of cost, the 3/4 x 3/4 heims I use on panhard bars (on trucks) are about $25-$30 each. I buy them from offroad suppliers because they seem to have figured out the best sources for strong joints. https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/RODENDS.html http://www.partsmike.com/index.php/categories/spherical-rod-ends 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2023 Again with a temporary fix on the exhaust that will probably stay for a while.... I was able to bolt a strap to the muffler, which I attached to a clamp. I then secured the clamp around one of the braces i added under the truck for the ability to tension the strap.... this should keep the stack inside the heatshield from moving around... we shall see after tomorrow's drive to work.... Not worth pictures.... Quote Link to comment
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