KELMO Posted August 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2022 Well, it's not like I am trying to go all "Big Tanker status" on this one so really not too concerned. I just wanna drive this thing before May of 2023. 1 Quote Link to comment
fivetenguy Posted August 19, 2022 Report Share Posted August 19, 2022 2 hours ago, KELMO said: That is correct. When we installed the seal on the glass it was not a snug fit. Once the glass was installed everything pulled together. My thought was to install the front corners first and work toward the curved edges on the back. That did not work out the way I saw it in my head. Forgot to mention that Missus Kelmo did all the hard work on the installation. One of the reasons I was asking was because I bought mine from Datsport too, but mine look a little different. The ones you bought are smooth and the ones I got are not. I don't remember how they fit on the wagon, especially at the corner. I'll have to take a pic tonight when I get home and post it. And good job, Missus Kelmo!! They look good. My wife also helps me when she can 🙂 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted August 19, 2022 Report Share Posted August 19, 2022 Again, my memory isn't so great, but the drip rail piece that goes around the rear corner of the cargo glass might cover some of that exposed metal. I also had the ribbed style repro rubber, so YMMV.. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 19, 2022 Report Share Posted August 19, 2022 30 minutes ago, Duncan said: Again, my memory isn't so great, but the drip rail piece that goes around the rear corner of the cargo glass might cover some of that exposed metal. Unfortunately, I am 99% sure it does not. That little bit probably needs to be painted satin black to blend into the seal. My real concern is it leaking there, but thankfully I don't think Kelley will be driving it in the rain much. 😁 31 minutes ago, Duncan said: I also had the ribbed style repro rubber, so YMMV.. Yes, see how yours goes all the way up to the edge of the chrome? 2 Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted August 19, 2022 Report Share Posted August 19, 2022 I was thinking it might. Wishful thinking again. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted August 20, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2022 Aaannnnnddd, I don't have the drip rail....so, there's that. Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted August 20, 2022 Report Share Posted August 20, 2022 5 hours ago, KELMO said: Aaannnnnddd, I don't have the drip rail....so, there's that. And now you have those corner moldings on the way. Please PM me your mail address and I'll get them off to you sometime next week. Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted August 21, 2022 Report Share Posted August 21, 2022 Looking good. I put my trim on after installing the glass. Foot powder is a good thing top have or baby powder and run it in all the cracks and it will help slip it on easier. But you got so the hell with what I said.lol Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted August 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2022 "And now you have those corner moldings on the way. Please PM me your mail address and I'll get them off to you sometime next week." Luv you, mean it. No Homo tho bro. I used powder when installing some of the door seals. When we were doing these side seals, we used soapy water and rope to pull it onto the pinch weld. 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted August 21, 2022 Report Share Posted August 21, 2022 All I see now is you in soapy water, wait a minute. Lol Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted September 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2022 Windshield installed. I may actually wash this thing today. 3 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted September 12, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2022 Got around to washing this on Saturday. Before. After. It did look like I may have some water leaking in at the rear of the cargo glass on both sides. I'll have to look into that, but I suspect installer error. This is the motor planned for this car. It is an L18 with an A87 head. I also have 2 L16 motors and both have 210 heads. I would look around in here and see which is the better one, but I am a bit lazy. 2 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted September 12, 2022 Report Share Posted September 12, 2022 What is to become of the Z20? Under a shelf somewhere? 😁 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted September 12, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2022 Sold to a guy with a 521, who sold said 521 to another guy. 1 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2022 Started taking bits off of the motor. It looks like the red paint should clean off easily. At this point, I don't see and primer or the original color on the block. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 4, 2022 Report Share Posted December 4, 2022 On 9/12/2022 at 3:51 AM, KELMO said: This is the motor planned for this car. It is an L18 with an A87 head. I also have 2 L16 motors and both have 210 heads. I would look around in here and see which is the better one, but I am a bit lazy. I think this is the better choice but if rebuilding, oversize pistons will be hard to find. L16s always had 'number' heads. (210, 912) L18 and L20B were 'letter' heads A89, U67, W58. Letter heads always had larger combustion chambers, valves and ports than the L16. That Z20 block would have been really nice to put that A87 on. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2022 I am hoping to not rebuild but will cross that bridge when I get there. I have never dug into an "L" motor before but give me an "A" motor, those I know I can do...well for the most part. The Z20 motor seemed to sit a bit high in the bay and at this point I do not recall having a transmission for this car. Also, not sure if a "ZX" trans would mate up to the "Z20" block. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 4, 2022 Report Share Posted December 4, 2022 The Z20 and L20B blocks are identical and both use the U60 L20B crankshaft. From center line of crankshaft to head gasket surface, (deck) both are 227.45mm. OK not absolutely identical, there are minor casting differences but totally interchangeable. If using an L head you might want to check the coolant holes as the Z heads are different. The bore thickness on the Z20 may be slightly thicker. If using a Z20 block in an L series configuration any L series transmission will bolt to it. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 5, 2022 Report Share Posted December 5, 2022 20 hours ago, KELMO said: The Z20 motor seemed to sit a bit high in the bay and at this point I do not recall having a transmission for this car. Also, not sure if a "ZX" trans would mate up to the "Z20" block. The issue is the "tilt". An L leans about 10 degrees to the passenger side, while a Z wants to lean about 5 degrees to the driver side. So when you use the "wrong" transmission, the shifter comes out the hole at a funky angle. Use whatever trans matches the head/tilt. So a 280ZX is perfect, if you're using an L-series head. That car came to you with a Z20E 5 speed from an '80 200SX. The Z sits high due to the taller deck. On a 510/521 the hood is often a tad too low for the tall deck 2.0L+ blocks. It usually means slotting the engine mounts to get it down for hood clearance. The PO of your car decided to remove a hood rib instead (it was fouling the intake plenum). Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2022 28 minutes ago, datsunfreak said: That car came to you with a Z20E 5 speed from an '80 200SX. Like I said, I do not recall this car having a trans in it. I would have had to have removed it when we were still living in ABQ. When we moved out, I do remember having to strap the motor in place in the bay as there was no trans in the car at the time. Since I have had this thing damn near 10 years it is possible my memory is a little foggy (possible, HA). I have transmissions up against a wall but behind a set of shelves, so it looks like there is some moving of stuff in my future. It could also be possible that the guy that got the Z20 also got the trans....fuckifIknow. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 5, 2022 Report Share Posted December 5, 2022 21 hours ago, KELMO said: I am hoping to not rebuild but will cross that bridge when I get there. I have never dug into an "L" motor before but give me an "A" motor, those I know I can do...well for the most part. The Z20 motor seemed to sit a bit high in the bay and at this point I do not recall having a transmission for this car. Also, not sure if a "ZX" trans would mate up to the "Z20" block. An L20B, Z20 or Z22 bock is 2 cm (3/4") taller than the L16/18 blocks. I put an L20B into my '71 and it was a perfect fit. If you run it as a Z20 the Z series head and valve cover are 8" tall. the L series head with valve cover is 9.5" tall at the front so Z series are shorter, less tall. The ZX or any L series transmission will physically bolt to the Z20 but will be clocked to the driver's side with shifter in your hip. It will only be level on an L series. If the Z20 is to be used with an L head and in the L configuration then the ZX transmission will be fine. Z series... note center line rib is closest to the right side mounting bolt... L series... Note that the center line rib is closest to the left side mounting bolt LEFT is for L series Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 5, 2022 Report Share Posted December 5, 2022 5 hours ago, KELMO said: could also be possible that the guy that got the Z20 also got the trans....fuckifIknow. What happened to the inventory spreadsheet? 😁 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2022 Only use that for smaller stuff which, in hindsight, seems like an error. If time allows this week, I will be pulling transmissions out from behind the shelf. Of course, the one I want is buried the deepest. 1 2 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted December 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 Still have not gotten around to digging that transmission out. Did some other stuff instead. We are just scuffing this up a bit as I had a leaking Brake master cylinder and there were some issues just behind the strut towers. There was what looked like an AC drain tube in this hole. Possibly made from a large caliber weapon from inside the cabin of the car. More gooder now. Is this the mysterious cowl drain hole I have heard mentioned a couple times around here? Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 21, 2022 Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 That entire spot welded on keystone shaped panel is the cowl drain. It wraps around a bit to the underside. Quote Link to comment
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