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What camp do you belong to?


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for those who have only one datsun, which do you prefer to have under the hood?

 

newer drivetrain components or old school stuff.... and why? cost, period correctness, other?

 

In my case, I'm not opposed to either, but I think there's a threshold of utility that you can get from modding the hell out of original equipment.

 

 

thoughts?

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I have one school of thought...Same Manufacturer as Body...

 

If you can stuff an L20B into a vehicle that had an L20B, go for it.

If you can shoehorn a Titan V8 into something, go for it.

 

Nissan Manufactured into Nissan Manufactured...the way Mother Nissan meant for it to be...

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Whatever suits your goals and doesn't destroy the vehicle. There are plenty of non-Nissan motors that would make great swaps into Datsuns, and plenty of Nissan motors that make horrible swaps into Datsuns. I would rather see a good non-Nissan motor in a Datsun, than say, a straight 6 L motor in a 521.

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So I bought a closed chamber 219 head and I have a full L16 sitting around with a 5 speed tranny. I'm looking for a clean shell to transplant my KA swap into so I can so get the body work done on my 2 door that I have now.

 

I'm thinking that I'll look for a mikuni intake, and get a pair of 44's and make a set of 40s out of them (so I can use it on my roadster too) and put it back in the 2 door with the numbers matching engine.

 

thoughts?

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While I like the original, I can appreciate one with mixed body and drive line parts but only if done well. I don't care for shaved marker lights when the '68-'69 arrow ones are a viable alternative on the 510. On any other cars, if the mod is mistaken for factory you should get extra points. A '72 620 with L20B and 5 speed would be a simple example. Anything that is an improvement or up grade is good, but having said that, 11" vented and drilled disc front and back with 6 piston calipers is as retarded as a Chevy V8 swap.

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I am more or less of the keep it simple school, the best upgrade for a L16 is a L20b, they run forever almost, even when there wore out they run, I am at the usefull end on my L20b now in the work truck, it's to the point of what is it going to run out of first now, oil or gas. When it starts acting up, I usually can figure it out, and get home before it quits, or bandaid it and limp home. The newer stuff, I would call a tow truck, I don't have a clue. wayno

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I am more or less of the keep it simple school, the best upgrade for a L16 is a L20b, they run forever almost, even when there wore out they run, I am at the usefull end on my L20b now in the work truck, it's to the point of what is it going to run out of first now, oil or gas. When it starts acting up, I usually can figure it out, and get home before it quits, or bandaid it and limp home. The newer stuff, I would call a tow truck, I don't have a clue. wayno

L motors are like older Honda motors are like older Toyota motors - they run forever because they don't put out any POWER :lol:
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L motors are like older Honda motors are like older Toyota motors - they run forever because they don't put out any POWER :lol:

 

Soooo f'king true!! My wifes 97 Accord has 226,548 on it and don't use a drop of oil :D

 

I know an older gentleman with a 78 longbox 620 that has 369,000 original engine miles!

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Years ago I used to know this old bastard and we didn't care for each other much but had to put up with each other on a regular basis, long story. Anyway we got talking and he had these really great stories about when he was young and he showed me some old railway pocket watches he had in a drawer. All opened up in the back and they has small keys that fit in and you hand wind them up. One thing I noticed was that the faces had glass covers that were about 1/4" thick. I thought this was odd as it would make them heavy and bulky. My Timex wrist watch had a thin plastic cover on it. It occurred to be that plastics did not exist when these were made and to prevent the fragile glass face from braking they simply made them thicker to add strength.

 

I get the impression that the L motor is just like that. It has 5 massive main bearings that will support well over 3 times the intended hp and likely much more. These bearing will last forever and back. The block is thick and rigid, same with the head and the crank. It overcomes by being much more than it needs to be. It's build in a time when it was intended to last more than the warranty years. Best of all it's not complex but very simple.

 

I wonder how many Muranos or Exterras or Maximas will be still running in 40 years and 250K.

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I appreciate anything that is well done, especially if it has some awesome fabrication! For my car, I went new with the KA, but tried to keep it old school looking with the carbs, paint colors, etc. I LOVE vintage race cars, so I draw a lot of influence from what I see on those.

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Honestly, anything is cool with me.

 

 

I like simplicity and it seems that the older the engine, the better it is to diagnose when something breaks. I'm old school at heart. The idea of tuning multiple carbs and listening to a high revving 4 cyl is just badass to me. It's a Datsun thing.

 

That and period correctness. I have a soft spot for old school race cars. Rat rods and gassers to be more exact. I suppose that's why I'm just so attracted to Datsuns. They're unique and truly one of a kind.

Edited by metalmonkey47
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it depends on the build.

 

but 90% of the time i go with whats easiest/cheapest. if i can go full retard for pennies i will, otherwise im gonna macguyver what i got lying around and make it happen.

 

 

do lean towards "same manufacturer" its just easier, unless the parts are just that bad ass. i built my celica into a supra, above and beyond what a 79 supra would be cept the motor, using 100% toyota parts ranging from '78 to '87. imho i have the very best and coolest parts across the board, from a OEM toyota badged CB, to JDM chrome bumpers. but ill bolt just about anything to my wheeler, its got parts from all types of shit.

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over all it depends on what its for.

 

Im a sucker for L motors tho. esp when it comes to L6's

 

I like the period correct hot rod builds

 

 

 

 

 

but KA/SR/RB/CA/VG swaps are all great motors that fit and can lay down some power :cool:

 

 

 

 

theres way to many good build combos :P

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lol i guess i go for both...

 

if i could find a twin cam KA with all the stuff to put it in for cheap, id be on it..

 

i also want to build a LZ so i can just bolt it in an jet up the carb...

 

so...

 

im just a sucker for something mechanical looking... i just like seeing little details...

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So I bought a closed chamber 219 head and I have a full L16 sitting around with a 5 speed tranny. I'm looking for a clean shell to transplant my KA swap into so I can so get the body work done on my 2 door that I have now.

 

I'm thinking that I'll look for a mikuni intake, and get a pair of 44's and make a set of 40s out of them (so I can use it on my roadster too) and put it back in the 2 door with the numbers matching engine.

 

thoughts?

I have some carbs for sale PM me your number and I will call you, we can talk about prices

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