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About Duke

  • Birthday 11/02/1985

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Santa Rosa, CA
  • Cars
    '72 Datsun 510, '88 Toyota Master Ace Surf 4wd
  • Interests
    Cars, Rock Climbing, Bicycles, Snowboarding
  • Occupation
    Manufacturing Engineer/Welder

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  1. I used 280zx inner tie rods for this function for my personal build. The difficult part was finding a nut for the threaded stud that would usually go into the steering rack. On the 280zx the thread is M16x1 (not a very standard size). After much research, I was able to find a stock Honda powersports nut with that thread. The Honda p/n is 90203-KM1-020 for the M16x1 nut. Here is a picture of my T/C and LCA setup.
  2. I mulled over carbs and induction a ton in the past. I initially ran 40mm PHH's on my KA because that is what came with the engine when I purchased it. When I acquired the 44's that are currently on it I sent them to Wolf Creek Racing for a rebuild and initial jetting. I spoke to Todd a bunch about jetting, venturi sizing, my intended usage, etc and he set up the carbs to suit this. Since doing this they have been pretty much flawless, minus the issue of the float bowls overfilling under high G loads. I think that for how I use my car, anything bigger than 44's would have a negative impact on throttle response, which is something that I don't want to give up. If I were to change my induction setup (and I don't plan on it for a while at least), I think I would make the jump to ITB's. The cost of ITB's and EFI vs. new, larger carbs is pretty even, especially with how affordable and user friendly standalone ECU's have become in the last few years. Also, I bet you could make more ultimate power with ITB's than with carbs, with the added plus of easier tuning and better drivablity.
  3. Good call on the crank girdle. The pan is pretty low profile to clear the rack and pinion setup that I have in my car. I will take a look at that to make sure I have clearance. None of the bolts are "wet" so that isn't the issue. I have the pan off right now and am going to let things sit for a day or two to let all the oil settle. I have been cleaning the block thoroughly every half a day or so to make sure it is oil free when I give this another shot. I have been leaning towards giving "The Right Stuff" a try. I have heard good things from multiple sources and I like the short cure time. Less time for oil to drip down and fowl the seal as thing cure.
  4. As I said in the first post, engine is a KA24de, so the PCV is on the intake side of the block (actually attaches to the front cover), and yes it is hooked up to a catch can as I run dual Mikuni's so there provision for the PCV in the intake. I would be very surprised if the block was cracked, but I will give it a good inspection. Like I originally stated, I'm really just looking for suggestion on sealing. I have ruled out anything else that may be an issue. I should also mention that the engine is in the car so I am doing this all overhead. I'm wondering if even though the block is clean when I install the pan, oil may be dripping down before the sealant has set up and fouling it.
  5. Drips on the exhaust side of the engine. I can sit and watch oil weep out and accumulate on the pan rail. Definitely not the front or rear main seal.
  6. I have been having a hell of a time getting the oil pan to seal up on my KA24de. I have tried just RTV (as they come from the factory), cork/rubber gaskets, gaskets with rtv, etc, etc, etc. and I cannot for the life of me get it to seal. The pan is custom made using a 1/4" thick flange. It is flat. I am making sure that both the block and pan are CLEAN, and then cleaning them again just to be sure (using lacquer thinner). But no matter what I do, the flange still leaks where it mates to the block. It's not major, just a single drop from about 30 minutes of running, but I want it SEALED and DRY! Anybody have any special techniques, sealants, witch craft, or black magic that they use to seal oil pan flanges? Hit me with them!
  7. I understand the frustration. I think I pulled the engine/trans 6 times to deal with small problems before I got my KA swap to where it is now. That being said, once everything is dialed in, it's totally worth it. On the Innovate issue, did you happen to power up the unit without the sensor plugged in? This happened to me a couple of months back and I had similar readings to what you are seeing. I re calibrated the unit and all was good again.
  8. Really nice build. Love seeing a wagon built for performance. For your oil pressure sender, I have use one of these successfully for my oil pressure gauge and warning light. Should be stronger than the brass one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078MRLJD8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  9. Awesome job! Definitely something to be proud of.
  10. Glad to hear things are going well for you guys this year. Looking forward to seeing you on the salt!
  11. Look at MKII Ford Escort racks. Similar width to many Datsuns as well as being front steer. Also came in LHD and RHD. New racks are available in many different ratio's.
  12. There might be some news on this front. I've heard about a possible new spot for next year!?
  13. I use nyloc nuts throughout my suspension and have had no issues with them backing off.
  14. You might look into a MKII Escort steering rack. They are much narrower than Mustang II racks and available in LHD, front steer configuration. They are readily available from England in many different ratios. The bump steer should be much better than with the mustang rack.
  15. This car is the epitome of a tastefully modified 510. I really like all of the attention to detail on the car. As far as the steering box breather goes, I seem to recall that the threads were tapered pipe threads. When I had a steering box in my car, I used a NPT to AN threaded adapter with a short pigtail of stainless tubing on the end to allow the fluid to expand without spilling. With the stock breather in place I found that there was always a bit of fluid weeping out. This also won't melt like the stock plastic one when the headers get hot!
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