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Everything posted by Duke

  1. I mulled over carbs and induction a ton in the past. I initially ran 40mm PHH's on my KA because that is what came with the engine when I purchased it. When I acquired the 44's that are currently on it I sent them to Wolf Creek Racing for a rebuild and initial jetting. I spoke to Todd a bunch about jetting, venturi sizing, my intended usage, etc and he set up the carbs to suit this. Since doing this they have been pretty much flawless, minus the issue of the float bowls overfilling under high G loads. I think that for how I use my car, anything bigger than 44's would have a negative impac
  2. Good call on the crank girdle. The pan is pretty low profile to clear the rack and pinion setup that I have in my car. I will take a look at that to make sure I have clearance. None of the bolts are "wet" so that isn't the issue. I have the pan off right now and am going to let things sit for a day or two to let all the oil settle. I have been cleaning the block thoroughly every half a day or so to make sure it is oil free when I give this another shot. I have been leaning towards giving "The Right Stuff" a try. I have heard good things from multiple sources and I like the sh
  3. As I said in the first post, engine is a KA24de, so the PCV is on the intake side of the block (actually attaches to the front cover), and yes it is hooked up to a catch can as I run dual Mikuni's so there provision for the PCV in the intake. I would be very surprised if the block was cracked, but I will give it a good inspection. Like I originally stated, I'm really just looking for suggestion on sealing. I have ruled out anything else that may be an issue. I should also mention that the engine is in the car so I am doing this all overhead. I'm wondering if even though the blo
  4. Drips on the exhaust side of the engine. I can sit and watch oil weep out and accumulate on the pan rail. Definitely not the front or rear main seal.
  5. I have been having a hell of a time getting the oil pan to seal up on my KA24de. I have tried just RTV (as they come from the factory), cork/rubber gaskets, gaskets with rtv, etc, etc, etc. and I cannot for the life of me get it to seal. The pan is custom made using a 1/4" thick flange. It is flat. I am making sure that both the block and pan are CLEAN, and then cleaning them again just to be sure (using lacquer thinner). But no matter what I do, the flange still leaks where it mates to the block. It's not major, just a single drop from about 30 minutes of running, but I want it SEALED
  6. I understand the frustration. I think I pulled the engine/trans 6 times to deal with small problems before I got my KA swap to where it is now. That being said, once everything is dialed in, it's totally worth it. On the Innovate issue, did you happen to power up the unit without the sensor plugged in? This happened to me a couple of months back and I had similar readings to what you are seeing. I re calibrated the unit and all was good again.
  7. Really nice build. Love seeing a wagon built for performance. For your oil pressure sender, I have use one of these successfully for my oil pressure gauge and warning light. Should be stronger than the brass one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078MRLJD8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  8. Awesome job! Definitely something to be proud of.
  9. Glad to hear things are going well for you guys this year. Looking forward to seeing you on the salt!
  10. Look at MKII Ford Escort racks. Similar width to many Datsuns as well as being front steer. Also came in LHD and RHD. New racks are available in many different ratio's.
  11. There might be some news on this front. I've heard about a possible new spot for next year!?
  12. I use nyloc nuts throughout my suspension and have had no issues with them backing off.
  13. You might look into a MKII Escort steering rack. They are much narrower than Mustang II racks and available in LHD, front steer configuration. They are readily available from England in many different ratios. The bump steer should be much better than with the mustang rack.
  14. This car is the epitome of a tastefully modified 510. I really like all of the attention to detail on the car. As far as the steering box breather goes, I seem to recall that the threads were tapered pipe threads. When I had a steering box in my car, I used a NPT to AN threaded adapter with a short pigtail of stainless tubing on the end to allow the fluid to expand without spilling. With the stock breather in place I found that there was always a bit of fluid weeping out. This also won't melt like the stock plastic one when the headers get hot!
  15. You guys seem to be working pretty fast...are you possibly shooting to head back to the salt this year?
  16. Didn't realize you were looking for a later model windshield. Sorry to get you excited.
  17. Available from Summit Racing... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pkc-400046687/overview/year/1973/make/nissan/model/510
  18. I think that they just ran. Around 130 through the 2 and slowed after that if I heard right.
  19. Sorry to hear that it didn't go totally to plan. Talking to a friend that was out there, it seems like the conditions were awesome and the lines were short! Shame that you guys weren't able to get a good run in. Next year is the year! (isn't that what everybody says?)
  20. The R&P swap was the best single modification that I have done to my car. Having steering that is quick and direct is an awesome thing!
  21. Interesting. Good to know that there is a fix for the noise. With how I use my car I will most likely live with the noise. It's not even noticeable in the middle of an autocross run!
  22. That is consistent with how mine is. I'm guessing 4th is the worst because it is basically a direct drive straight through the transmission, giving the harmonic a direct path to resonate through. On a 240sx there is a rubber coupling in the driveshaft. My guess is this is there to help dampen the harmonics and quiet the transmission (along with the heavy flywheel, stock clutch, soft transmission and motor mounts, rubber mounted shifter...etc). A few years ago I installed an ATI damper on my KA. I don't know if it was the placebo affect, but it felt like there was a n
  23. The clutch also plays a roll in this, as the sprung hub helps dampen harmonics coming from the engine. My thoughts are that that stock clutch springs are tuned to the harmonics much better than an aftermarket clutch. Because my engine maybe puts out 10% more HP than stock, I can get away with running the stock clutch...with the turbo though, you might be SOL.
  24. Just to clarify, 0-0 is not perfect. You want some operating angle in the U-Joints so they stay properly lubricated and do not sit in a fixed position.
  25. I found that when I switched from an aftermarket clutch to a stock clutch it quieted down the transmission quite a bit. From some of the research I did on this matter, I think the noise is more related to gear chatter than bearings (although it really sounds like bearings when you're driving!) People theorize that there is a harmonic above 3,000 rpm that travels from the engine through the transmission and then is reflected back from the diff to the transmission. When off throttle and the gears are back loaded, the problem is exacerbated. Harmonics like these are the reason some OEM's use
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