]2eDeYe Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Nope, I'm trying to break those too. :sneaky: I ran hard mounted struts in a celica for years after I tore out the stock rubber isolators. Never had any issues with them after that. I tore the rubber ones out jumping up and down a levy, they disintegrated. Almost went in the river :lol: Never had any issues with the stock strut rods or bushings either, and it was lifted. I did bend one control arm and tore the strut rod mount one night when I didn't clear a gap. That car was good times. Eventually had to retire it after bending tiny tie-rod arm one to many times. The strut towers were still straight even though most of the subframe was hammered from hitting berms and rocks. Never took it easy on that car. :lol: Quote Link to comment
Dime Dave Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 That is exactly why it broke. My new bushings are WAY TOO STIFF. I think I'll get a hold of Dave Patten at FUTO FAB and pick up a set of THESE Bob, Not that I'd want to deter you from buying a set of FutoFab TC Rods, :poke: there is a method to help make the poly bushings more flexible. It involves drilling 5/16" holes around the bushing center hole. Here is the whole DQ article. Dime Quarterly Poly Bushing Article Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 With that tiny little shaft holding the T/C rod together, hopefully FUTO Fab's rods won't break either! http://technotoytuning.com/media/products/tcr_01.jpg just for comparison... I have actually heard of the T3 t/c rods breaking also depending on how much castor you are running Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 I have actually heard of the T3 t/c rods breaking also depending on how much castor you are running I bet they brake because people add caster after tightening the blots that hold the TC rod to the LCA. Under those conditions anything will brake over time if it's binding. The LCA angle changes drastically when caster is added, I've even noticed the bolt holes in the LCA only allow so much added caster, there is only so much sloppig in the LCA bolt holes. I would like to see a broken T3 TC rod, Those things are so damn beefy! Quote Link to comment
Dime Dave Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 I bet they brake because people add caster after tightening the blots that hold the TC rod to the LCA. Under those conditions anything will brake over time if it's binding. The LCA angle changes drastically when caster is added, I've even noticed the bolt holes in the LCA only allow so much added caster, there is only so much sloppig in the LCA bolt holes. I would like to see a broken T3 TC rod, Those things are so damn beefy! The FutoFab design uses a clevis to allow for movement rather than flexing the TC rod when adjusting. As Icehouse notes there is only so much slop in the OE rod's mounting holes and by using a clevis at this location there is more than enough movement for any adjustment that can be made. FutoFab uses a steering rack end from a late model Volvo on the chassis mount end of our TC Rods. This is not a design we came up with but one that has been used on 510's for years. If you look in the original "How to Hot Rod Your 510" book published back in the '70's they show this design using a MG Midget rack end. The Volvo rack ends we use are from a car weighing twice what the MG did, plus the Volvo has to deal with the added loads placed on the steering from being FWD. FutoFab wasn't the first to use this design and as with all things, there will likely be a difference in opinion on what is best or suitable. That is why we designed our part the way we did. If we didn't feel we could offer another option for TC rods we wouldn't be offering this one. Think how boring it would be if the only ice cream was vanilla. So we added cherrys to it. Bob, glad to hear you made it home safe after the break. Having broken a strut rod on a racecar I know how things can go all wrong in a hurry! Now I will stop and apologize for hijacking your build thread. Keep up the good work :thumbup: PPssst! I have the full length rear quarter molds done with BRE flares for your racecar project. I'll drop you an e-mail. Quote Link to comment
Bob3 Posted May 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 . The best running "Datsun" I have has Mazda Power. I just blew up my new L20b. It has 800 miles on it and I've changed the oil twice. I've been very careful during break-in to not rev it high and I kept an eye on the oil psi and H20 temps. I cut no corners, spared no expense and now this. I don't know what to say . . . oh how about this? Hey DATSUN :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: This SUCKS! . Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 lol thats the fault of who ever built it :lol: I have never had a motor Iv built fail at all L motors are way over built what failed? Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 . The best running "Datsun" I have has Mazda Power. I just blew up my new L20b. It has 800 miles on it and I've changed the oil twice. I've been very careful during break-in to not rev it high and I kept an eye on the oil psi and H20 temps. I cut no corners, spared no expense and now this. I don't know what to say . . . oh how about this? Hey DATSUN :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: This SUCKS! . Maybe it was simply afraid of more suspension failures and decided to go out on its own terms. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 Bob told me it was the head gasket. Easy fix! Go down the the Nissan dealer and get a head gasket, slap it on and your back on the road. From my experience L series always run, just never that good. I ran a free L16 with wore out solex carbs for a year before it blew up. After tearing it down I found out that while is sat water went in the number 3 cylinder creating a deep rust ring. Then after someone saved the car it ran for 3 years with a big ass ditch in the cylinder! I wanted to slap a new piston and rod in it just to see how much longer it would go but put a different L motor in it. Bob I think it just needs some boost :) haha :) Quote Link to comment
Bob3 Posted May 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 2eDeYe' date='30 April 2011 - 07:01 PM' timestamp='1304211716' post='468301']What failed? I don't know. It's back over at the engine builders shop. I'll know more next week. Maybe it was simply afraid of more suspension failures and decided to go out on its own terms. I'll send that P.O.S. out on my terms. I'll put it back in the field where I found it and light it on FIRE! I might need a new hobby, this one is getting old! :angry: Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 I might need a new hobby, this one is getting old! :angry: you can just drop all your stuff over at my place :D Quote Link to comment
Madness Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 Remember i called dibs. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 I might need a new hobby, this one is getting old! :angry: Maybe it needs new motorvation? :D Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 Come on Bob, this is suppose to be fun remember? Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 I've loved all my L motors for the last 25 years, but now with a KA in there, I'll never go back. (Unless I'm building a nostalgia car or truck, then it's L with SU's for sure) Quote Link to comment
Bob3 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Come on Bob, this is suppose to be fun remember? It's not fun to just spend money and not get to drive! Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 I know......... At least it's in your rat and not your racer right? Quote Link to comment
Bob3 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 . FOR SALE Madness has first dibs. If Madness can't do it I'll post it up. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Dood seriously? All that work and giving up when the motor shits out? I almost gave up on my 720 4x4 because i couldn't get it to run right. A little help from a good friend and i have a daily driver now... C'mon Bob! I know it pisses you off, but don't let go of it. You'll kick yourself later. Quote Link to comment
Bob3 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 $5000 and way toooo many hours for 800 miles of driving! As I said before, I did it right and spared no expense. I have better things to do with my time. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Still a badass car and someone else will enjoy it :) You got other projects to get to work on anyways right? :D Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 . The best running "Datsun" I have has Mazda Power. I just blew up my new L20b. It has 800 miles on it and I've changed the oil twice. I've been very careful during break-in to not rev it high and I kept an eye on the oil psi and H20 temps. I cut no corners, spared no expense and now this. I don't know what to say . . . oh how about this? Hey DATSUN :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: :fu: This SUCKS! . By curiosity, what break-in method did you use? If you don't wanna talk about it thats cool ... Quote Link to comment
Lüdvig Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Yep. On Sunday. Saturday I'm going to Bimmer Haus to install H&R springs on my BMW E46 M3! :P bimmer haus on Alameda? Quote Link to comment
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