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Bob's '68 2 door Rat


Bob3

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Bob3

Come to think about this more clearly maybe by not running a PVC valve and routing the hose from carb to crasekcase was a bad move.

As the motor speeds up there is a negative pressure inside the crank case thus sucking in air. I wonder if routing the hose to the carb was sucking the air away from the carb thus making it a lean situation.

 

If tru it would have been beter to just open crank case and plug the PVC hole.

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I think youll be fine. I just havent seen a holed piston before.

Maybe he told you but assumed the the PCV was in there.

 

If your built head is still good I would build a stock bottom end and install that or if your up to it bolt it to your block you got now.

 

as for the my staement running w/o a PVC valve and the hose hook up. its only a guess as ,Never seen a holed piston.Unless a valve went thru it

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.

 

Huston we have a problem!

 

The Futo Fab T/C's don't fit. EDIT: They do, I'm a Dummy!

 

FutoFabdontfit004.jpg

 

FutoFabdontfit005.jpg

 

 

 

There is another problem with these, they are right hand threaded on both sides. You can't just crack the jam-nuts loose and adjust them. You have to remove them to adjust them! EDIT: I was wrong again! They work GREAT! :angry:

 

 

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I don't think this car will EVER be reliable! :sick:

 

EDIT: I love this car. I just shouldn't work on it when I'm exhausted! :cool:

 

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After the MX520 build, I can't believe what I've been reading/seeing in this thread. The tie rod ball should be able to rotate in and of itself, so you certainly can adjust them on-car even if they're both right hand thread. That, plus it simply looks like the brackets are flipped around (clevis connected to wrong end). Durrr?

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After the MX520 build, I can't believe what I've been reading/seeing in this thread. The tie rod ball should be able to rotate in and of itself, so you certainly can adjust them on-car even if they're both right hand thread. That, plus it simply looks like the brackets are flipped around (clevis connected to wrong end). Durrr?

 

Yes but you could adjust only one end, they would not be even. The brackets can be flipped . . . Oh, you may be right. :unsure: I just tried to put them on the way they were assembled at the factory. Duhhh . . .

 

I have been working tooo many hours, I was much better rested when I built the MX520! :cool:

 

I'm going to bed.

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Yes but you could adjust only one end, they would not be even. The brackets can be flipped . . . Oh, you may be right. :unsure: I just tried to put them on the way they were assembled at the factory. Duhhh . . .

 

I have been working tooo many hours. I was much better rested when I built the MX520! :cool:

Yeah, you'd have to crack one, adjust, tighten, then crack the other, adjust, tighten. An inconvenience, but not the end of the world and still able to do on-car.

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Yeah, you'd have to crack one, adjust, tighten, then crack the other, adjust, tighten. An inconvenience, but not the end of the world and still able to do on-car.

 

You are right! You are right on ALL of the things you said.

 

Sorry Dave I'm a dummy, a TIRED DUMMY! They bolted right on once I flipped the brackets.

 

Thanks "thisismatt' ! :thumbup:

 

If I wouldn't have fixed that, I would have not slept well tonight. Now I'm going to sleep like a baby!

 

Good night Ratsun.

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so im glad to see things going better over here... lol

 

i was gonna comment last night on how those bar looked kinda cheapo... but they were just too simple for us to understand... :lol:

 

keep up the good work, and hey, get more sleep than datsun working time... youll find the datsun working time goes soo much better.. :D

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You are right! You are right on ALL of the things you said.

 

Sorry Dave I'm a dummy, a TIRED DUMMY! They bolted right on once I flipped the brackets.

 

Thanks "thisismatt' ! :thumbup:

 

If I wouldn't have fixed that, I would have not slept well tonight. Now I'm going to sleep like a baby!

 

Good night Ratsun.

 

Bob dropped me a note last night. I have to admit I didn't help him out much by flipping the cad plated mounting bracket to the wrong end when I stuck it on the clevis. I knew Bob could figure it out, hell look at all the fine work he did on the MX520. But when you are sleep deprived things can get strange! Very Strange.

 

Anyway, if Bob with all his mad skills can get this messed up, I figured I'd post my repsonse to him for everyone's knowledge.

 

Sent Today, 12:20 AM

 

Bob,

It looks like I put the wrong end of the bracket into the clevis, use the hole on the other end and you'll be set. Sorry about that.

 

A word of caution. If you have polyurethane LCA bushings, don't try to adjust much more than stock caster. The LCA bushing has to twist to change caster. Works much better with my adjustable LCA's that uses rod ends.

 

Also, the clevis and ball/socket shafts are both right hand thread. I know, a pretty stupid set-up, but I couldn't find LH, 5/16" slot clevises with 3/8" bolt holes. I'll likely have LH ones custom made in stainless when I run out of the one I have in stock.

 

To start, set the TC rod at stock length with the clevis thread engaged 5/8" into the coupler. To increase caster lock the ball/socket shaftt jamb nut, loosen the clevis jamb nut and rotate the aluminum coupler and the ball/socket shaft together using the clevis thread to pull the LCA forward.

 

If you get to the point where the clevis bottoms in the coupler and you need more caster, lock the clevis jamb nut, loosen the ball/socket shaft jamb nut and turn the ball/socket shaft in by the hex on the shaft near the dust boot.

 

Always keep at least 5/8" of thread engaged in the coupler on both ends. If you adjust it so there is less you run the risk of pulling the treads out of the coupler and disconecting the TC rod from the LCA.

 

Hope this solves your problem and prevents some potential others.

 

Dave Patten

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