kevins 70 510

[DISLEXICDIME]

Man that's progress . Hurry up and get it done so you can come slam mine out.

[510kevin]

well, i fucked up. :angry:

 

 

i got home from work last night, and started cutting the hole in my floor for my shifter and cut through my rear fuckin brake line!!! :angry: :angry:

 

 

anyone got one layin around? i dont really want to have to make one, would rather buy one if theres one around

[DISLEXICDIME]

Ooo I almost did that the last 2 times a cut a 5 speed hole

[Laecaon]

Why I drilled a hole on the bottom marking the farthest right I could cut.

[VintageRice]

I nicked my brake line with a sawzall. Just barely, and driving it like that still today. I will replace it. I keep saying that.

 

 

 

 

 

WHY did Datsun think the trans tunnel is a good place for that line? Didn't they know there would be decades of people cutting them out for swaps!!! :D

[dennis]

I am glad I am reading all of these blunders before I cut mine up. with my luck I will still probably cut mine too.

[510kevin]

ok, so i dont do anything else stupid.........

 

 

 

the wiresi run to my can am box are the ones on the gray and orange plugs on the main harness, NOT out of the back of the ecu right?

 

 

i hope i dont burn my car and shop down :unsure:

[510kevin]

 

 

getting closer........

 

 

 

240 harness is ran to the inside of the car, waiting to be wired

510 harness is 50% finished(im stripping the unused shit)

radiator, intake, maf adaptor, silicone boots and header are all in the mail.

 

 

still gotta build a trans mount, wire and plumb it ;)

[510kevin]

starting to get discouraged........ :(

 

 

car is close to running. should have the final steps of the swap done tomorrow........except the wiring.

 

my 510 harness sucks and im having problems getting stuff to work. everytime i plug in the white wire from the fuse block, my headlights come on. i cant figure out why. they only shut off when i pull the white wire.

 

 

so for now, im soaking my fuse box and connections in vinegar to see if that helps. ive researched this problem so much today, my head feels like its gonna explode.

 

 

any ideas??? anyone down to come help troubleshoot? im a wiring idiot and near my wits end........

[philcas1987]

Me me me!! Oh yeah I can but won't be home till next month

[DISLEXICDIME]

where you running a external regulated alt before ? if so did you jumper the wires right

[510kevin]

where you running a external regulated alt before ? if so did you jumper the wires right

 

 

the harness i put in the car was not modified for the internally reg'd alternator.

i spliced the 4 wires (cant remember colors right now)as the saturn swap thread says.

 

is it possible i did something wrong there? ill get some pics up this afternoon

[DISLEXICDIME]

what year harness did you use and what yeardoes it say your car was maid on the name plate?

[510kevin]

what year harness did you use and what yeardoes it say your car was maid on the name plate?

 

 

 

 

the car is late 69 (70 model year)

 

the harness is a 71 or 72 i believe.....

 

 

im just gonna continue with the swap, im almost done otherwise. ill pick back up on the wiring in a few days.

[DISLEXICDIME]

from what i remember the fuse box's are different i wonder if that is the issue i tried to take a pic of the diagrams but it will not show up on my camera i will try to take one with my wife's camera when she gets home.

 

but as a consolation prize here is a diagram of what wires to jumper for the alt

[DISLEXICDIME]

69

71

 

hope this helps

[collision and customs]

its just orange base+flattening agent. i would reccomend something better for a driver. the flattened basecoat absorbs grease, tar, mud, bug guts and everything else. i messed with flattened clear, but if you dont get it perfect(ie runs, orange peel) you have to wetsand and buff and the clear shines back up.

 

the 2 63's were painted like this as a temporary solution to boring primer/sealer. looks cool for a few months and only cost about $80 worth of materials!!

 

if your buddy wants to do flat orange look up hotrod flatz. stuff looks sick and is WAY easy to shoot

 

Sherwin Williams makes the best flat clear on the market. If you want a satin or semi gloss finish you just have to add reg clear to it, and its flexable plus lays out perfect with a Iwata LPH 400 or newer gun with 1.3 fluid tip

[banzai510(hainz)]

Be honest the 510 harness is pretty good.

Going by Memory the WHITE wire feeds the fuse box from the fusable link.

 

you dont have the switch pulled out by chance up at the dash.?

You did anything with the light relay?

 

510 the lamps are feed +12 all the time so if there is a ground the lamp will come ON. Some time people put in grounded H4 lamps and soon as you put them in the lamp housing it grounds on the Car and it LIght goes ON. The Old Cibies used to do that.

YOu have a weird H4 wire harness? re wired?

 

Persoanlly you didnt need to do anything really to the stock harness beside getting the 12volt switchable ON wire. then the new harness has its own set up.

 

as for the 2 wires Jumper conversion I assume its still good.

 

You using a Saturn alt or you using the KA alt as I think they used a differnt plug in connector?

[510kevin]

thanks for the help guys.

 

 

hainz. i double checked my jumper wiring, and it is correct as far as the multiple drawings say. i do have h4's that worked fine before the swap. i do have power to the fuse box from the white wire. and my headlight relay also worked fine before the swap.

 

 

now, since i plugged everything in and had problems with the lights, i assumed it was the relay. i had a bosch relay laying around and wired it like the diagram below

 

 

 

so, i must have a ground that is constant and keeping the lights on? when i turn the key to "on" my park lights come on with the headlight switch in the "off" position, the fusebox pulled out of the car :blink:

 

 

i aint giving up, its just a car, and its not smarter than me, it just has the upper hand right now! :D

[510kevin]

well shit. i just double checked, then triple checked everything in the headlight wiring circuit. seems to be no problems.

 

what the hell am i missing? if the lights are always hot, and the ground activates them, which ground wire is it?

 

 

stupid stupid question....this isnt happening because the car is completely off the ground on jackstands??? :unsure: :huh:

[Laecaon]

According to the diagram you showed, the lights cannot come on unless the switch is pulled out. RY from the switch is + for the lights. It goes to the fuse box. Then R and RL leave to each side. RY should never have power in it unless the switch is pulled out as it gets power from WR. Seems like you might have something connected.

 

The relay only determines whether you have high beam or low beam, not whether or not your lights are on.

[510kevin]

According to the diagram you showed, the lights cannot come on unless the switch is pulled out. RY from the switch is + for the lights. It goes to the fuse box. Then R and RL leave to each side. RY should never have power in it unless the switch is pulled out as it gets power from WR. Seems like you might have something connected.

 

The relay only determines whether you have high beam or low beam, not whether or not your lights are on.

 

 

hmmmm. i have a red/yellow that just stops at the fuse box with nothing to plug it into. i wonder if that is posing a problem?

[Laecaon]

Back trace the Red and Red Blue. They go into the fuse box, and each have individual fuses. Figure out where the fuses are getting power from then. They should get power from Red Yellow.

[510kevin]

ok. got the headlights and tails, brake lights and high beams working now!!!! :D

 

 

the only thing not working is the turn signals. when i turn the key to the "on" position, my park lights automatically come on. no turn signals though......getting closer

[DISLEXICDIME]

that's because you need the other fuse box or the other harnes look at the pics i posted