VintageRice

@datzenmike @Icehouse

Any videos of your carb’d KA running and idling? And pulling? How she run?

What’s up boys. Been gone a while. I’m back. Saw this on Facebook recently cause I was pondering force feeding my single cam with a draw thru carb. Then saw this post! Too fun. Thought I’d share. He’s using an exterra/frontier blower. I was also thinking about a blow thru carb setup with a truck intake. Adapter plate would be EZ. But I’m growing tired of fiddling with carbs anwyay….

Nope. Mostly stock R1 carb' single cam KA.

I posted this in my old thread but didn't think it would get much views cause its a 4 yar old thread....... Anyway yes, I put a viscous LSD from a 2002 Outback into my 510 for $130. And it works. Here's the details. First I read a post by "domn8tr" posted in the "subi R160 LSD link" sticky thread. It reads: I noticed this info is about 10 years old now, and doesnt cover the Subaru R160 VLSDs that came in WRX and Outbacks and others from '99 and up. Any subaru legacy outback with cold weather package from 99 to 03 will have VLSD R160, and any Outback from 01-03 will have the VLSD as STANDARD equipment. Look for the heated windshield wipers and heated seats to know if the car has cold weather package. These cars are now over 10 years old and very easy to find. I found three R160 VLSD equipped outbacks in the Ecology just this weekend. They are available in 4.11 for the manual transmission outbacks and a nice zippy 4.44 in the automatics. In '99 Subaru changed their VLSD design to no longer require the longer extra set of splines on one axle to engage it. This means all you have to do is have some c-clip gooves machined into the end of your factory Datsun axle stubs and they will clip right into any '99 and up Subaru R160 VLSD and will engage the VLSD and work just fine! The machining cost only 60-100$ This makes the total cost for a 4.11 VLSD under 200$!! Thats a real ratsun price for an LSD! some pics of the machinging: http://www.the510rea....php?f=3&t=3881 This almost sounded too good to be true! but..... So I did a Inventory search and found a fresh 2002 Outback at Pick n Pull. In neutral, wheels spun the same way. Check. Picked it, Pulled it. Paid for it. $99. The 02 Diff C-clips Put my 510 stubs into it. Did some measuring. Figured out that the c-clip notch needed to be about 5mm in from the end of the stub. I did this by measuring the distance that the sub moved from sitting against the clip, to fully seated. Got the stubs machined. $30 Stock 510 axel dust caps fit. Have to swap the 510 drive shaft flange onto the subie diff. But you need the subie dust cap. The subie dust cap is crimped on, the 510 is tack welded. Cut/pry them off, put hte subie dust cap on the 510 flange, tack weld it on, and bolt it back to the subie diff. Snap your newly machined stubs into the diff. Now its time to re-install in your 510. Complete swap by filling with your favorite 80w-90w gear oil and do two wheeled burnout to confirm. :) DIsclaimer This is just what I did, you don't have to. If you do, and screw it up, not my fault. Only one test drive so far and if you want a full locker this doesn't seem to be it. if I had to rate it on a scale from "welded diff"--- to ---"open" it would be a 5 right in the middle. I'm no Diff expert but in gravel and my shop there's two tires spinning. On open pavement and clutch dump, i get the rear end to break loose for a second and then one tire bites more that the other. It grips really well, and should be perfect for my tame street car. Just thought there should be a good DIY thread on this LSD that only cost me $130.

Forgot the proof pic.

Got my axel stubs back from the machine shop. Groove turned in 5mm from the end. Cost me $30. Had to swap the dust cover from the subie, onto the drive shaft flange from the datto. Tacked the dust shield on. Then. Two wheel burnout. Done. Total cost of this R-160 viscous LSD in my 510. $130. So far I only did a few miles of test driving. Couple dead stop burnouts. Both wheels spin at first but then one hooks up before the other, that's the best I can describe it. It's doesn't act like a full posi like an old muscle car. But it works. It feels a little more "open" than I imagine a clutch style LSD feels, but hey. It's better than open and it was $130 bucks!!

G, thanks for the info man. Weird diff. Lockleaf, thanks for the link. Interesting build for sure. Tonight I popped both the stubs into the diff and measures with my digital calipers the difference from sitting against the c-clip to fully engaged and it's about 5mm on both sides. So I should be able to have a groove machined about 5mm in on both sides, pop those bad boys into place and start bolting in into the 510! Will let you guys know how it works out as soon as I get them up to the machine shop. Already talked to a place that'll do it for about $30. That's if the steel is not to hard to turn. Heck, I'll take a cutoff disk to these if I have to hahaha. Kidding but not kidding............

Google RX1 turbo, I remember they sold the aluminum caps as part of the snowmobile turbo kit. Also, kinda awesome this thread is still going!! I've been away from ratsun a while, but the R1 carb'd KA still runnin strong! I don't even remember all the jetting details haha. I may have to revisit that this summer.

One way to be sure. 1. Install 2. Two tire burnouts 3. Post video Seems legit!!

First pic is just a pic of the inside. The next two show the location of the c-clip. The clip looks like it's farther in on one side. They're actually both the same distance in from the outside. Basically, with the dust covers in tact, the stock 510 stubs go in far enough to just touch the c-clips. I took a dust cap off tonight and eureka! The stub splines slide in another 1/4" or so and pass by the c-clips, that means I can get a groove machined and they will lock into the diff. There is not two separate set of splines on one side as discribed earlier, as described as using the different length axel's. I don't see why this won't work people. It sure acts like a limited slip, both sides turn the same way, unless you really hold one side tight, like with a pry bar, and then it's really hard to turn the other side, but it does turn.

Thanks for the responses guys!! I've already read through all those links posted the last few months doing research on this. Still learning. Good info. And to G-Duax, what exactly is the "AP" diff you speak of? The diff I got came out of an 02 Outback, the wheels spun the same direction when I turn the input shaft, and the CV's that I pulled out were the SAME LENGTH. I checked and double checked. So what diff do I have then?? If I have to go back to pick-n-pull, and pay a dollar to take a pick of the CV's I will haha. I ALMOST paid to take them too so I'd have the stubs but pick-n-pull wants $30 each and one I damaged the boot removing it. What about using the stock subi cv's and having a shop weld half the subi axel to half of the datto one? Custom welded axels not strong enough?? Just an idea.