yenpit

Yup, I remember the Goon gussets......often added to Sedans looking at track duty! I can't quite make out if the back section of the upper rail is double walled.........maybe look at that when you cut up the Sedan......?? I would be curious!

............although the upper fender rails are rotted junk, FYI I seem to remember cutting up a Goon few years back, found that the back section of the upper fender rails were DOUBLE walled, where the Sedans were not........?? Nice job saving what you could! Parts cars are getting harder to find. I have a Sedan parts car right now, only parts car in the last 5++ years! :crying: TJ

All of the side moulding door ding guard stuff during the 60's-70's was dealer added, never factory Datsun. There were all sorts of styles, some riveted or screwed on, some sticky taped on, but will be limited choice these days, as nowhere near as popular! The orange 2dr in my shop had the sticky tape style, and the sticky tape glue soaked into the paint over the years, so we can NOT get all of the glue residue off the car.......sucks! Try BD Company (www.b-dco.com) here in Denver. Matching the other side is like a needle in a haystack, so you should count on buying all new, choosing a style & rubber/vinyl insert color! TJ

There are two different 510 boots......round & oval! edekalil pics above are oval.

All 69-73 Sedan tail lamp housing are the same (1968's are different). I've heard that the JDM/Aussie etc tail lamp housings might have had different bulb sockets that don't fit the USA housings & vice versa, but I've never seen! NOTHING better than creating a reproduction part from an NOS part, that is not damaged, warped, shrunken, stretched etc etc...........problem is initial cost to buy NOS, but that's how it works!!

Buy a pair of 2dr doors, bolt them up, cut out & move the B pillars back, leaving the 4dr rear doors in place, but you will cut into them to fit the longer 2dr doors! The rear doors act as the front half of the rear 1/4. Lots of body work! Yes, the 2dr doors will bolt right up......just need to move the B pillars back! All of the 68-72 4dr Sedan doors are the same (front Wagon doors similar but slightly different upper window frames, rear Wagon doors have completely different upper window frames). The 68-71 glass is CLEAR, the 71-73 glass is factory TINTED. Hard to tell difference unless you put next to each other with a white back drop. All door hardware the same.

PM sent........I'm in Arvada, have good USED dust caps! Crashtd420......great tip on installation! TJ

Wow, really great score, even tho it looks like it's been sitting many years!! Yes, try to save the wiring cuz it is 1968 WAGON only...........even the 1968 Sedan harness is on its own!! I have a 1968 dash harness, but it is for a Sedan!! You can use "donor wire" sections from any 68-80'ish Datsun parts car wiring cuz basically used the same color codes. Vintageconnections.com will have some of the white plastic plugs, but some of the 1968 might be different..........all you can do is search that website for pics & match up, don't think they can tell you what to buy! You can buy a 1968 WAGON wiring diagram from a guy named Paolo at paolo@cedarcomm.com .........do this.......it's the only way to figure out electrical messes, unless you have LOTS of patience!! This is the place to be to find answers!! PS please PM me if you have other questions or comments, cuz I don't get email notifications from Ratsun, and I don't get to this forum section very often!

68 had...... suicide wipers dash cluster has a "brake" button towards the left side, barely seen in above pic dash cluster fuel & water temp gauges positioned opposite of 69 horizontal heater controls dash pad all around is slightly different for 68, looks similar to 69 NO DASH VIN PLATE rear license plate lamp on top of bumper 69 had..... same swipe right to left wipers 69-73 dash cluster does NOT have "brake button" dash cluster water & fuel gauges opposite of 68 vertical heater controls dash pad all around slightly different for 69, looks similar to 68 dash VIN plate added drivers side top license lamps either side of plate 69-73 Hope that helps!

The front doors will fit, BUT yes, there is that not quite ~~1/4in difference. Yes, the complete door shell itself is the same, the window/glass frames are slightly different, and yes a good body guy/welder could swap frames. I would bet you could do the same with the rear door shells........swap out the frames...........?? TJ

Mike rocks! We were plumbing all of this same stuff on a Triumph TR6 today at work, but a simpler system without that flow valve. We are mixing different year components, so we have a simple early PCV valve set up. All we have for the FUEL side, is a vent tube from the gas tank to the charcoal canister in the engine compartment. That canister is also plumbed to the PCV system. The PCV system pulls from the valve cover to the PCV valve to the air filter......the charcoal canister is "T"'d into the PCV hoses, to the air filter. Basically, it draws crankcase vapors & fuel vapors back in thru the air filter, to be drawn in & burned off.

Many of the fuel guide valves on the left inner strut tower were pulled off & thrown away, as many emission control parts were! I have USED ones if you need, but I have never looked at HOW they work or if they work. There should not be any raw fuel coming from the gas tank up thru that vapor tube, so you could potentially just leave it open, maybe with a small screen or filter on it.......OR route it to an air filter. If you need to have all that stuff hooked up for emission testing in your state, I can't help cuz I have never set that emission control stuff back up on a 510.......maybe Mike can guide you!!?? If no emission testing, bypass it all, BUT leave that vapor tube open!! You very likely can not buy a NEW charcoal cannister for the Datsun, but a charcoal cannister is a charcoal cannister on just about any classic car! Moss Motors sells various British car cannisters, which you could potentially set up. Hope some of this helps! TJ Denver

I can't believe you guys missed this :poke: ............look at the windshield wiper cowl & wiper arm pivot positions...........that's a 1968! :thumbup:

Very cool!! :thumbup: I did a similar grille mod on an MG years back, looked great! Make sure your grille mounting points are strong cuz of the added weight! 'Sup djlotus! TJ

..........also for those swapping out ANY L-series automatic...........the 5 bolt L16/L18 and the 6 bolt L20B (and Z car L24 L26 L28) FLEX PLATES have some value! As far as I know, the 5 bolt L16/L18 flex plates are NLA. I think the 6 bolt L20B L24 L26 L28 flex plates are still available. Although there ARE people still running the automatics, often needing to replace the flex plates, we actually use the later 6 bolt flex plates on our vintage race Z's with manual tranny's, using a Quartermaster 5-1/2in clutch assembly, Bottom line, don't throw away those flex plates!!

What Draker said ^^^^^.............1969 shroud. You might have to trim the bottom at the dash OR even "extend it" to meet up closer the later dash.......I've never tried it! The other ideas are cool too if the rest of the dash stuff is custom.............

Just looked at that link picture.........was the AC compressor up high on the passenger side of the 620? Some (if not all) of the dealer installed AC kits on the 240Z had the compressor up there too, but not an ideal location! We are installing a late model Sanden on a 240Z resto, BUT we are using the later 280Z compressor bracket that locates it down low drivers side of block. If you look at your block (any L-series 4cyl or 6cyl), you should see a distinct 4-bolt pattern. I am happy to take pics, but I simply don't like hosting & posting pics here on Ratsun..........too much of a pain dealing with any of the hosting sites! PM me an email or text #, more than happy to send! TJ

Woah, have never seen that style of AC idler on an L-series!! I bet you could use 510 or Z-car parts, but would involve some engineering ingenuity on your part. I have misc pieces, but I do not have ALL of the 510 parts, same for the 6cyl. One thing I did check recently was the bolt pattern for the big York compressor bracket L20B 4cyl vs L28 6cyl. The bolt pattern was the same, BUT the location of that 4-bolt pattern was different between the two......both drivers side front of block, but not same exact location! That means that if you bolted an L28 bracket on a 4cyl or vice versa, you WOULD have to re-engineer whatever idler pulley & bracket you have. NOT impossible by any means, just very likely NOT a bolt up easy peasy job! TJ

HAPPY TO DO THE SWAP, so you get yer 4.11, but if the 3.89 will work, we can skip the labor, and you & Paul can make yer deal right away! Think on it, let me know VIA PM MESSAGE OR EMAIL, cuz I do not get notifications from Ratsun when somebody responds to a post I'm involved with!!!!! :w00t:

Whut? Huh?? My ears were burning!! :confused: Stop, you guys are embarrassing me.......... :rofl: Paul's 4.11 diff........nope, it's a 3.89 (??), which I think was an auto or shortbed or something! :sneaky: However, my offer to pull the diff out of my truck still stands!! I'll grab Paul's 3.89, you get mine IF it actually a 4.11. You & Paul put yer deal together, BUT let's make sure mine is a 4.11 before you guys trade out parts!! I'll get to pulling it in next few weeks............still a l'il cold outside!!

The timing cover SEAL is the same for all of the L-series L16 L18 L20B L24 L26 L28 including the ZX, so the OD of the pulley/dampners are the same. Sounds like seeker>620kc already knows that the "depth" of the various pulley combinations is critical in relation to clearance for the fan blade, makes sense! We are in the middle of a 240Z resto, customer wants to retain the AC, so we have compared a number of crank pulleys.........the Z however, uses a crankshaft dampner pulley, 2pc with vulcanized rubber in between, to externally counterweight the much longer 6cyl crank........the 4cyl's had a much simpler stamped steel crank pulley. I bet you can use a 2 row 4cyl crank pulley, 2nd row was originally for the emission air pump OR the dealer installed AC. I have a couple of 2 row 4cyl pulleys available in my stash, so let me know if you need one.....we can do some measurements, timing marks etc. Does the AC belt idler unbolt from a bracket......does that bolt come out......can you space the idler in or out to match the crank pulley?? TJ

FYI that is not a "proportioning valve".......that aluminum unit is a distribution valve, which acts as a safety feature (British cars had same thing!). Brake fluid simply flows thru it, and there is a l'il slide plunger (looks like a weight lifting barbell with seals on it) that stays balanced during normal brake operation. If you blow out a brake hose, front OR rear, that slide plunger moves to the opposite distribution port, closes it off, thus leaving the other circuit working, NOT well, but well enough to stop the car.......so you don't loose both front & rear brakes! I've never researched deleting this distribution valve, but since the brake master has separate front & rear ports................??

Are the brake rotors vented? If vented, then you should have the correct 280ZX (not 280Z!!) strut assemblies......not a guarantee, but quick easy identification, cuz standard 240Z-280Z are solid rotors. If still in question, what datzenmike said ^^^^^ :crying: Yes, get the bump steer spacers if you don't have......aka RCA's. Yes, get adjustable upper camber plates if you don't have. Yes, the strut insert/cartridge is held in the strut tube by a big flat "nut" (aka gland nut). Pull the coilover spring off, look for a big "nut" at the very top of the strut tube, just above the coilover threaded sleeve, with the strut shaft poking up thru it. We can't see......the coilover springs are hiding it!

Shipping is a biotch, cuz they are HEAVY!!!! Remove & THROW AWAY the upper coil spring hats & coil springs........these parts do NOT fit the 510. I ship in TWO boxes, cuz combined weight is too much for just about any cardboard box, AND you must pack very tightly, so they don't bounce around inside & burst out of the box. My 2cents! TJ

Hey datzenmike! I wanted to rehash this, cuz I have learned more info recently, after rewiring a late 1973 2dr! Every single wiring schematic that I have found......ie Haynes, Chiltons, + a number of other manual brands that I have collected.........are ALL WRONG, for the 1969-1972 510's (I never found any late 1973 schematic)!!! These schematics do NOT include most of the USA-spec wiring ie emission crap etc etc. As you know, it makes a world of difference to have a proper schematic, when cleaning up & deleting redundant wiring that will no longer be used! I have since ordered a complete SET of the hand made color wiring schematics from a guy named Paolo, who was an active member for years on the510realm..........I do not know if he is here on Ratsun! I think his 69-72 schematics can be found online, but I went ahead and ordered his complete printed & laminated SET, so I will always have at my fingertips! If anybody would like his contact info, PM me!! PS this is where my problem of NOT getting any emails notifying me of further posts to this thread or any other! :confused: I will have to remember to manually check back here if anybody posts a question or comment! :sleep: