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yenpit

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Everything posted by yenpit

  1. The first thing you & Greiggy need to do is figure out exactly what you need! :confused: I have shipped quite a few large bulky 510/1600 panels, ie floor pans, trunk pan, doors etc etc, but all within the USA. I'd suggest that you guys discuss cutting the upper bulkhead/firewall in HALF, to keep the box size down, thus the shipping costs down...........possibly way down compared to a whole panel! You are going to be welding ALOT regardless, and if Greiggy gives you a clean cut at that halfway point, you should be able to weld it back together on the truck. Whenever possible, I have always cut LARGER than the buyer requests, because YOU will cut & trim it down to suit your needs, and it's always best to have more metal than not enough! Also, since it sounds like you are only looking for structural panels, that makes life easier on Greiggy, as he can simply secure those panels in a box, not too concerned about dings & dents like you would be on fenders, doors, hoods etc etc.........that makes packaging much easier! Years ago, I did a full resto on a Mini Cooper, bought a brand new body shell from Austin Rover in the UK, so I had the original rusted out body shell left over. I made a deal with a Mini buddy, he came and picked up the scrap shell, and a year or so later told me that bits & pieces cut off of my old shell, contributed to 6 or 7 other Mini restorations! Now that was great to hear!!! :rofl: Wow, hell of a project to cut & ship, but it's because of guys like Greiggy that we can actually make things like this happen! Good luck!! :thumbup:
  2. Man, I have never seen a 620 rust out that bad on the upper cowl area!! :crying: (I did have a 510 that was even worse than that!) You are one ambitious dude!! I'd suggest bolting the cab back on to the frame BEFORE you cut out that upper cowl area.......you might need that rigidity to keep it straight!! I'd seriously consider Greiggy's offer, cuz everything over here in the States is of course LHD, and the majority of the cowl & firewall areas would likely be too different to try to fit!
  3. This is cool David! Are you working on the 2dr Wagon?? :thumbup:
  4. If you made your own panels, patterned after a stock board, you could buy some black plastic clean rounded head fir-tree push in clips (NAPA or any good upholstery shop etc etc), that would go "thru" the new panel into the OEM holes, even retaining those OEM soft rubber "inserts" (still available from Nissan) that are pushed into the holes in the door. You would see the clean rounded head of these clips once installed, but you can't really see black on black anyway! The plastic fir-tree clips are a l'il tricky to remove if you need to go back into the door, often breaking upon removal. Those trim screws are quick & easy, AND they are also available in black anodize, so you can't see them as well as the chrome ones.
  5. I saw that coming a mile away............actually about 1200 miles away!! Project is lookin' great! :thumbup:
  6. ggzilla, you are a freakin' Datsun SPONGE! Always like the oddball info you toss out!! I've been in the British car industry for many years, and friends always laugh when I rattle off some obscure detail or fact about an Austin, MG or Triumph. Keeps this car madness in check!! :rofl:
  7. Car is long gone, but it was a FWD A-series................long gone! :yawn:
  8. Great find Darrel! Those buys do exist, and can be found if you look in the right places! Love the color!!
  9. Go to Gorilla, McGard etc etc, check their detailed charts for their lug nuts. Like datsunaholic said, LOTS of different lug nuts! As long as the holes go straight thru WITHOUT an obvious taper at the wheel face, you will want a straight shank lug nut. Measure the ID of the lug nut hole in your wheel, AND measure the depth of that hole to get the correct lug nut SHANK. Hope that helps!
  10. Man, I LOVE widened steelies! :thumbup:
  11. Great group of guys, very professional! I watched them run at the Sno*Drift Pro Rally in Michigan for years. And yes, we would stand out in the woods (like in the pic on the website) in knee deep snow, drinking beer, just to watch them blast by us at 60-80mph :thumbup: . Wicked fun!!!
  12. White Post is the place to use.......I've sent lots of British crap to them over the years for rebuilding!
  13. I heard SW MI was gittin' hammered with snow! Sure, we get snow here in Denver, but nuthin' like SW Michigan.....I miss it!!!! :w00t:
  14. OMG don' scare the poor guy like that!!!! :w00t: Wow, that was a hell of a front clip replacement!! CaliforniaDays, I agree with these guys......looks completely repairable. You just have to decide what kind of mulla you want to spend........or should I say, what your buddy will have to spend!!
  15. A weak refridgerator/tool box magnet (with some kind of advertisement on it) works well, and you simply allow the magnet to make contact on the sheetmetal........it should go "thunk" to the car, showing that there is metal back there. But also keep in mind that even a good quality welded patch can require a skim of bondo to smooth out the surface, thus showing that bondo was used, possibly making the magnet not stick. I always look for factory spot weld "divits" along fender lips and lower rocker/sill panel joints, as those "divits" are very often skimmed over with bondo during body work. If you see & feel the divits, then less chance of shody body work......no divits, always look closer! Always look at the flat horizontal surface where a rocker/sill panel "rolls under" the car, as many body guys neglect to sand bondo smooth under there. It's mind boggling how often I find a wad of bondo along a lower edge like that, AND lack of new paint laid down!! Always keep in mind that some sellers don't want somebody poking a magnet along their car, so respect that by asking first, and ALWAYS LIFT THE MAGNET OFF, do not drag it along the car, as it can scratch the paint! Hope that helps!
  16. Cosmic & Revolution were two of the biggest names in the UK over the years, made multi-spoke wheels, but I didn't find that one. Both would typically cast their brand name on the back for marketing purposes..........you haven't seen any other markings, huh? Maybe log on to eBay UK and poke around there. Keep in mind that the common MGB (not the MG Midget), Austin Marina & Triumph TR6 all had the same bolt pattern, so they may have ended up on your 510 thru a British car guy........
  17. HKS & datsunfreak, buy the heavy duty cardboard tube (not a standard poster tube). Sometimes you can get a freebie from a picture framing shop cuz they receive artwork in them all the time. Bottom line, charge the buyer for the tube.........it ensures that it will arrive in one piece!
  18. Welcome Jose! I hoped you would show up here! I missed those 411's from Steve by 12hrs........you got there first! I ended up with the two L320 trucks, but those are going to California this weekend. FYI there is a late 510 down here at Colorado Auto Parts in Englewood if you need anything. Looks like a complete but worn out car! Also a 79-80 210 4 door with an automatic, at LKQ on Federal Blvd.
  19. Silver is always good, but white sounds great! Red on red would be too much red............?? Cold enough for ya Darrel?? Sucks, I got Datsun parts to clean, gotta do it outside, and the hose just spits out a long piece of ice like silly string!! brrrrrrrrrrr :crying:
  20. Early and FUGLY for a Pulsar! (sorry, that comment slipped out! :blush: )
  21. I understand datzenmike! If anybody has any questions, please PM!! :thumbup:
  22. Every once in a while, one of these pops up! Imagine it painted in a BRE paint scheme, towed behind a 620............ http://wyoming.craigslist.org/boa/4166242445.html
  23. I'm an avid 510 guy, but does anybody need anything off of a 77K mile clean 1974 B210 Hatchback? I think the front fenders are really nice and relatively easy to ship (I ship large parts often, if they fit in Fed Ex etc etc), straight clean lower front valence (although it looks spot welded on), doors, hood, hatch (all too big for standard carrier, might have to go truck freight??). Completely unmolested car, so wiring harness should be clean, really nice blue back seat, some nice black rear hatch area plastic panels, nice tail lamps, nice plastic dash panel with 2 small screw holes above ashtray (had a CB radio at one point!). This Colorado car looks like it was taken very good care of, stored inside for many years (very dusty dirty interior) and unfortunately likely ended up in the junkyard simply cuz a family member was lazy and didn't want to deal with it! Makes me sick. Save some parts from going to the crusher!! PLEASE PM WITH ANY QUESTIONS!!
  24. There is a 1981 Datsun 310 FWD in one of our local Denver yards, if anybody needs anything. It's a real orphan, relatively clean, all original, and maybe somebody needs some parts! Let me know, and I might be available to pull a part or two!
  25. Yup, cotton! The last time I did that, I actually "heard" the threads popping before I saw it, knew what it was, and walked away for a 1/2hr before I could bring myself to look at the seat. The seat was perfect.........before the stitching let loose. :sneaky: Quick visit to the upholstery shop, but still gut wrenching!
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