yenpit
-
Posts
2,533 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Classifieds
Everything posted by yenpit
-
Yes, if you buy a replacement strut (shock) CARTRIDGE for a different application, you pull all those original parts out that Mike showed you, buy an available off the shelf strut cartridge like hosestop suggested (I have never installed a 280ZX cartridge in a 610/710, so don't know for sure it will fit but guess it would!), it needs be the correct diameter cartridge & the correct length cartridge (no spacer) OR a shorter length cartridge & cut a simple steel tube "spacer" to bring it up to the correct height in the strut. Shouldn't need any welding, but if a spacer is needed, you will need to be able to cut thick steel tube. On my last 510, I used Toyota MR2 strut cartridges in 280ZX struts, had to make a spacer. Hope that helps! TJ
-
I just got a 280ZX parts car with an automatic.............will that one work?? TJ Denver
-
USA spec LHD? I don't think the OEM RHD air filter will fit with the LHD dual brake master. That pic looks like they installed the 1968 510 SINGLE master cylinder, to make room for that OEM filter assembly, which is grossly dangerous as a SINGLE brake line master! With a SINGLE line master, if one brake hard line, hose or hydraulic cylinder ruptures, you simply lose your brakes. With the 69-73 DUAL master, you will typically have enough brake pressure to at least stop........ There was a write up here on Ratsun some years ago about making one with a similar oval "shape", but the air filter edges were open.......you could see the air filter. In other words make a flat plate to mount to the carbs, another flat plate for the outside, and they used an OLD 80's (??) Subaru oval shaped air filter or similar, sandwiched in between the two plates. Problem is you really need a lip around the outer edges facing in, so the filter stays in place. Hope that helps! TJ -
Nissan still has all of the R160 & R180 differential gaskets, seals & orings.............easy to do! Even if you have an earlier SUBBIE R160 or R180 clutch pack unit, same gaskets, seals & orings & cheaper from Nissan. I do NOT know if the later Subbie Torsen R180 units use the same gaskets, seals & orings........... TJ
-
All 1968 Sedan tail lamp PARTS are 1968 only......nothing shared with the 69-73 lamps. The 68 chrome trim ring is the same STEEL material with the mounting studs "spot welded" in place, just like the 69-73, just a smaller trim ring. Hope that helps! TJ
-
Cool, that's the DOUBLE filament socket! Anybody figure out the Standard Motor Products SINGLE filament socket part #? I just ran out of good tail lamp harnesses, only because the ones that I have have bad sockets, so this is GREAT!! TJ
-
Thoughts & prayers to his family & friends! ? ? TJ
-
-
Pretty much all of the 4cyl heads will fit, will bolt up to the L20B..............it's really all about what combustion chamber, what valve sizes & what port sizes you want. The W58 head is OPEN chamber, big valve, big port HOWEVER it is an emission head with the steel "pre heat" tubes in the exhaust ports. On a basic street L20B, I don't think you would notice any performance difference. It is a waste of time trying to remove them, so that is not an option. Other problem is WHAT A87 head did your engine have on it? The A87 casting was made in many different configurations.......NOT necessarily all being the best! There were A87 OPEN & CLOSED/PEANUT chamber, there were small valve & big valve, there were small port & big port. That's why you have to remove an A87 from an engine to identify the combustion chamber & the valve size! Bottom line, what is the budget? The last head I had rebuilt cost $650 with all new parts AND with the cam installed with the correct lash settings. $150 for my rebuilt "BUT NEEDS CLEANING" is a steal! To install an old USED head on anything today, is just not a good idea......unless your budget calls for it! I have simply haven't had a Datsun that needed a new cyl head on a budget recently, so have never installed it! TJ
-
What Mike said! ^^^^^^ There are some visual ques to help identify the Z/ZX 5speed gear ratio's. A couple pictures from behind, of the tail housing & of the speedo pinion housing bolt location (12 oclock or 6 oclock) will help us identify. Also, as Mike asked, what is the overall LENGTH of the trans? By far the easiest thing to do on the rear end is pull the rear plate off. Identifying as R160 vs R180 is tricky for those not experienced, as it comes down to the R160 being visually smaller than the R180. You could potentially measure the spacing between the rear plate bolts, as they are spread further apart on the larger R180, let us know. For gear ratio, look for the stamped # on the edge of the ring gear. For open vs LSD, look at the carrier......if you see four spider gears, it is open. If you see a cast steel cylindrical unit instead, it should be an LSD. Datsun Competition sold factory LSD R160's over the counter, never available in a USA production car. Datsun Competition sold factory LSD R180's over the counter, never available in a USA production car. Subaru offered the LSD R160 as a factory option on the turbo GL & RX series cars from around 1984-1989............these bolt right in to a 510 with the 510 inner stub axles.....bolt in! Subaru offered the LSD R180's in the later WRX's etc, likely from around the early 2000's (WRX introduced here in the States 2002....??), but these units had snap rings on inner stub axles, so require the custom made 510 inner stub axles with snap rings. Hope that helps! TJ
-
-
Rocky? The pic links don't work for me, but if the dual carb set is the SSS 2 bolt mounting, I have an NOS linkage kit for it! PM or email me if interested! Also, the British sports car Triumph TR6 dual choke cable is a good set up........OEM part # UKC2121..........source online at Moss Motors or Victoria British. TJ Denver CO
-
-
I have a 5 bolt flexplate & center plate, but I also don't know if it is early BW or late Jatco. I bet it doesn't matter..........sounds like you are running a QuarterMaster 5-1/2 in clutch assembly.....?? We do the same thing on our vintage race 240Z's, but they are 6 bolt. Happy to take some measurements etc! PM if interested! TJ Ignite Performance Arvada CO
-
-
That's what I was thinking..........cast the post rivets, either re-use original "reflector plates" or include something! I wish I had the capital & ambition to repop parts.........!! TJ
-
Can you "coat" the urethane with something like the plastic chrome or paint? Our Datsun's & all other cars thru the 70's used "real" plastic, which can be cleaned & painted, and expected to hold up. From the 80's or 90's, manufacturer's started using polypropylene plastic (PP), which I BELIEVE is a waxed based plastic, so any coating ie paint etc does not bond properly........at least not long term. I've tried using the "adhesion promoter" primers, but was never really satisfied with the outcome. When I had a Sport Compact shop back in Michigan, many of the kids wanted to paint their plastic interior parts. I would try to explain the downfalls ie PP plastics etc, and I watched MANY a Honda Mitsu VW & domestics etc get destroyed visually, because they would not take my advice, paint the parts, and within weeks the paint would be peeling & flaking off! Bottom line, do your research, as well as testing!! I think there are LOTS of people here waiting to see how this turns out!! TJ
-
Pics don't work! PM me, we can swap email or text for pics. I would just sell you a USED carb, as long as it has the parts you need. TJ Denver
-
Contact Richard or Louis at ProSource Glass in upper New England. If they have available, ask if you can pick it up regionally.........we do that here in Denver! TJ
-
I just picked up a stock Hitachi carb in a parts load that I would sell. It was either new OR rebuilt cuz most of the yellow zinc plated parts are in excellent condition........nuts bolts screws brackets accelerator fork etc etc. However, it sat outside for an unknown period of time, and the throttle plates are oxidized & sticky..........they do move but the carb ultimately needs a full cleaning & rebuild, but again, most of the "parts" are still in yellow zinc! Parts sitting outside here in Colorado are often still pretty clean, unlike the midwest or upper northwest etc. If you are interested, PM me (or post here) your EMAIL or TEXT, and I can send some pics.........I do not post pics here cuz hosting & posting pics is a pain!! TJ Denver
-
Yes, I have heard that the 510 upholstery material isn't available! No big deal for us restomod people, but a pain for those looking to do an original restoration!
-
Hey Jon! No the 510 vs the 240Z seats are VERY different in shape etc, so the 240Z upholstery kit will NOT fit the 510 seat. If you have 240Z seats already in the car (was a common seat swap back in the day), then just buy the 240Z upholstery kit from MSA or ?? I think there are 3 or 4 different Z car seats, thus different upholstery kits to fit the Z car seat. Nobody makes a 510 seat upholstery kit, but any good upholstery shop can recover a 510 seat. Do you have pics of the seats that you have? TJ
-
Orange City? Jon? :confused: TJ Denver
-
So what I saw could have been a factory 1982 truck? Cool!! :thumbup:
-
Must have been a "factory look" custom done back in the day, cuz it WAS a low tail lamp truck! Really good lookin truck as he went the other direction! Hopefully track him down one of these days.......... :thumbup:
