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TiMopar

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About TiMopar

  • Rank
    Newbie

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    England, UK.
  • Cars
    72 510, 91 R32 GTR & old Mopars

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  1. Background to photo; http://falkeeins.blogspot.com/2012/04/last-flight-of-lt-paul-kaschuba-and.html
  2. Love your car and all the pictures, legend : ))
  3. This weekend after several months of severe mojo loss, I finally got my rear end in gear and fitted my R180 rear end. It quickly became apparent that I will need to re-work the exhaust for clearance. I still need to lock wire the bolts that secure the shafts to the hubs/ stub axles, which I have never done before, so I am looking at Youtube tutorails ( how did we manage before YouTube? ) If anyone else is going to do this conversion; the R180 is obviously slightly bigger in size. The case at the bottom toward the front of the car is deeper and extends further forward than the stock R160 which means that it will not push far enough through the cross member to allow the moustache bar to be fitted at the back. After thinking about this for a while, I removed the rear cover off the diff, fitted the moustache bar to the cover studs and then upwards onto the vertical studs ( being careful not to damage the gasket ). One other thing, when removing the original nuts and bolts securing the axle shafts to the stub axles and hubs ( which you need to re-use ) I found there is very little clearance for a ring spanner. I bought another wrench and ground the depth and circumference of the end until it fitted the nuts. Next job is to fit a hydraulic parking brake....
  4. ...some of you may find interesting, other Japanese cars too; http://www.datsuncars.co.uk/?page_id=87
  5. This weekend I removed the old diff and driveshafts from my 510 to swap in an R180 and CV halfshafts. It wasn't quite as easy as described; "Remove driveshafts using a 14mm wrench" and "Unbolt differential securing bolts and nuts and remove from crossmember", made it seem a lot easier than in reality. To anyone who has not done this before, you need to grind the outside circumference and the top of the end of the 14mm wrench to make it narrower, to access the nuts and bolts that hold them to the hubs. Regarding the diff, once all the nuts and bolts are removed, there are two square spacer washers sandwiched between the diff and the bottom of the crossmember on the rearmost pair of vertical bolts through the diff. I drove these forward with a flat bladed screw driver until it alows the diff to be moved forward enough and the rear studs are free of the moustache bar. The moustache bar can then be removed and the diff pulled back and manhandled out. I now need to swap the driveshaft flanges on the new/ old diff and swap over the bolts on the stub axles.
  6. "What's your radiator/intercooler setup like on this? I'm assuming the radiator is below the intercooler? " Brandon, the radiator and intercooler are the factory ones from a 2-wheel drive Sierra Sapphire Cosworth. Yes, the radiator is below the intercooler, I cut the radiator support panel wider, and converted the headlights to only two with air intakes to aid cooling. I also used the smaller exhaust manifold from a 4x4 Cosworth Sierra and boost hoses and notched the sump at the front to clear the cross-member and steering, adding 'wings' on the side of the sump to make up for loss of oil space. If you are considering the same swap you are welcome to PM me any questions. I would say that there are probably more modern, lighter engines now which would give similar power, but I already had this engine. Just to add, the non-running L20 engine that was in the car has gone to my friend over here for his Bluebird coupe, so it hasn't gone to waste : ))
  7. Those sheds still exist, they can be seen from miles away....
  8. Time Left: 1 day and 22 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    must be complete with screws holding it together and nuts that hold it to the car.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  9. Some time ago I posted some pictures of my 510, just after I had fitted a Cosworth Ford YB Turbo engine. Now thanks to my friend Gary Mills, who plumbed the fuel system and wired in the ECU, it is finally running. Still haven't driven it yet, as I need to fit the R180 diff and CV joint axles... If I ever drive it as far as it has travelled on the back of trucks and trailers I will have done well!
  10. On behalf of my fellow countrymen, I apologise for the 'British douchbag'....
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