yenpit

Fingers crossed A-series specialist SCCA racer Peter Zekert in MO says he has them, will know Sunday! Yes Mike, those are the detents, and again, Riley cross referenced the part #'s...........they are 79-80 210 standard H shift pattern ONLY! It's these silly little parts that go NLA/NLS that can stop a project in its tracks! And people wonder why I try to keep & organize all of my 510 parts like I do! I have saved our asses at work numerous times, cuz I have had something like this part for a 510 or a Z project in the shop! I hope Monday morning will offer good news!! TJ

Correct Mike.............not the dogleg, but the later 5speed! Riley cross referenced the various other Datsun application tranny detent part #'s, no luck......they are late 210 5speed ONLY! Ugh!! TJ

Anybody have a blown up damaged parts transmission for the LATE 79-81 210 standard H shift pattern 5speed (NOT the earlier dogleg 5speed) transmission? We are in need of some of the little rectangular "detents" in between the inner & outer synchro slide hubs. Riley at Lynchburg Nissan called these detents "dogs", but they are NLA/NLS. Each synchro slide hub will have 3 or 4 of these "detents". There is a small ball bearing & spring "touching" each of these "detents", as they work with spring pressure & a "click". We are willing to buy the slide hub assemblies so we have enough to replace what we need! If we have to buy a complete blown up damaged transmission & have it shipped, so be it, but if you can disassemble it that saves you having to box up a whole tranny & saves us the higher shipping cost. HELP!!! TJ Denver CO

Yup, I was ready to relocate the TC rods too, but this car isn't lowered that much! Want to hear how that works out for you! TJ

I like the black............. :thumbup:

See.....Dave CARES about customer service, there are many that don't in THIS Datsun market, and of course many other markets!! :thumbup: Found a 1200 race car for sale locally Dave, calling you now for advice!! :w00t:

Buddy's car, will post a pic when I can! It does have older unknown brand lowering springs, guessing 1- 1-1/2 drop, nice clean stance!

JUST finished installing one of Futofab's CA/SR front sump sway bars (haven't even washed my hands yet!!), and it is killer! Yes, I had to shave off one little corner of the U bracket to clear the subframe, ground a "flat" on one side of the flat washers so they would snug up closer to the inside/narrowest part of the mounting holes, AND we used the allen head cap bolts as suggested above ^^. The bolt holes were a hair too far spread apart once pushed over the urethane mounting bushing, so I installed the REAR bolt first, then gave the front edge of the bracket a good hard whack to pinch it closed a l'il more, and then installed the FRONT bolts. These same MINOR fitment issues have been around since the big sway bars of the 70's-80's, had the same MINOR fitment issues years ago with an ADDCO sway bar on my MG, and it just doesn't make monetary sense for the sway bar manufacturers to design & manufacture a different bracket for the classic import cars. Since this car is NOT slammed in the weeds, we have absolutely no clearance issues with the tension rods......about an inch apart. Can't wait for some Rocky Mountain road carving & track day use!! :thumbup:

I don't care how many names he calls his Goon (obviously he is infatuated with it)............I love this car!! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

PS if anybody is interested in the Roadster bellhousing, please PM me.............I do NOT get reply notices from here, and I only wandered in this Roadster section cuz I just bought & flipped a 2L car a few weeks ago! TJ

I have a Roadster bellhousing (starter on drivers side) available, if needed to swap your trans back to Roadster spec. We acquired a Roadster 5speed, swapped the bellhousing out with the early 240Z bellhousing to fit a 510 (starter on passenger side), which is exactly what you have. Yes, the 5speed, the early 240Z bellhousing & the driveshaft all had part #'s from Datsun/Nissan. Back in the day, when this 5speed was what was available over the parts counter for the 510, Datsun/Nissan offered a 2pc driveshaft, which is what I think you have there. It had a splined "slider" mid section to suit the different length, and had the 4-bolt flat flange on the front to suit the Roadster tailshaft. Again, this was to bolt up to a 510. TJ

As you guys likely know, there have been NUMEROUS versions of the CV axle kits for the Z cars, which I believe also fit the 510's. With racing the Z cars, the OUTER stub axle can shear, causing a potentially catastrophic issue........the wheel & hub will simply come off, and/or the axle shaft will potentially catapult the car like a pogo stick......this almost happened to a Z vintage racer in CA......he DID pogo stick it at speed, but thank God the car did NOT roll over!! We recently had a local vintage racer shear his 240Z outer stub axle, but he was at a low speed, rolled off the track, only realizing how close he came to a really bad situation, when the flatbed pulled the car up on the bed......the wheel was hanging on by the brake rotor inside the caliper.....that was all that was holding the wheel in place!! There have been a couple of guys making the Z outer stub axle flanges out of billet, but they too can shear. We have gone to the later 280Z stub axles in the 240Z, based on what we have read online, but again, the later 280Z outer stub axles can also shear. Ugh. We have been looking hard at all of the suppliers for the various "parts" that would withstand the vigors of racing, but there are no absolutes. Basically, all of these CV kits with spacers complicate these matters. We would LOVE to see an inner & outer stub axle flange with the 6 bolt Porsche CV bolt pattern, so we can eliminate the "adapters". We just bought a DriveShaft Shop CV kit for our latest 240Z vintage race build, with the OEM Porsche CV's..........we have been running a CV axle kit with the Empi CV's last season on our other Z, and they are already too "loose" for our liking. Bottom line, it takes two custom made stub axles to do this.........inner & outer. My 2cents!

Yup block vent to PCV......pretty sure all of the tubes are all the same diameter, including the Z 6cyl. Keep in mind that whatever tube you install needs to clear whatever exhaust manifold or header you use! Had a buddy custom fab up a header for a vintage race 510 on a mock up block & head, went to install on the built engine, that tube did NOT clear his new header! Man was he pissed!! :sneaky:

Although we run these BIG Toyota calipers on all four corners of our 240Z vintage race car, they are a very popular upgrade on the FRONT of the Z cars......never really heard of using them on the 510's, but don't see why not......!!

The 2dr 1/4 windows are shorter than the 4dr rear glass, so still need fab work lengthening or something. You can not lengthen glass, but you can cut Lexan any way you want! To mount rear 1/4 windows, look at the front vertical rail on the rear 1/4 windows........should see two small "piano style" hinges with two tiny screw holes each......that's how they are hung! I still think rigid mounting the 4dr rear glass will be the easiest! Are those red calipers 4 piston? Surely don't need those in the rear! Maybe PO had those for the front. All OEM caliper swaps I've seen in the rear are only small 2 piston, cuz you really don't need more than that..........

Buying NOS parts to copy will have been your best move in the end.........NICE!!!! :thumbup: So the NOS housings are late, have all 3 spru's, so a buyer with earlier 2 hole reflectors re-using the earlier reflector will need to snip 1 spru? That seems easy enough...... Option 2 - snipping off a plastic spru to fit the earlier 2 hole reflector is better than the buyer with 3 hole reflectors "seeing" that your housing is missing a spru. In other words, make with 3 sprus, buyer can simply snip off if not needed. What kind of heat will it take to "melt" the sprus down once reflector is in place? Will a regular Joe Schmo have the tool needed to melt it? If not, option 4 might be better..... Option 4 - the more complete ANY repro part is, the better for the buyer! This option 4 sounds more like a "bolt in" part......can't beat that in replacing a part in a restoration! My 2cents!

I will look.....got both cars here! Hrvat9 moving a door skin from one frame to another could be hell. Look at the inside edges all around the door skin.....see the 1/4in flange that is folded over to clamp the skin around the door frame? When a body shop replaces a skin with NEW, that new skin has that 1/4in flange at a 90deg angle (NOT folded over) so it will fit over the door frame, then that flange is carefully hammered flat. The catch here is that when the body shop REMOVES the old damaged skin, they simply grind the skin off right at the edge of the fold, releasing the old skin, then they pull off/chisel off the remaining 1/4in flange. I think anybody would struggle trying to "pry" that 1/4in flange all the way around to move the good USED skin over to another door shell. Maybe take your worst condition door and try it! You can not buy NEW door skins, other than finding NOS, which would prove difficult & expensive! Other option is find yet another pair of front Sedan doors (I don't think you are planning on replacing the rear doors cuz they are welded??) in good condition.............but I see you are in the rust belt of Canada :sleep:

With the inside sheetmetal cut out, you can not mount the window regulator. Maybe you can still install the forward & rear vertical glass "tracks", and install the small 1/4 glass window, then figure out a way to fab some strong brackets to hold the door glass up in position permanently.........that's my thought!

Hrvat9 I do have a DRIVERS side B-pillar if you go that route!

INDY510 what differs between pillars? I had heard that the 4dr pillars can be mod'd to work..........??

That is a great parts car for sure! That dash looks really nice, although grungy! Good luck parting!!

How about installing the vertical window tracks, including the long rearward one that also holds the front edge of the small rear 4dr 1/4 window, install that small rear 1/4 glass, install the OEM door glass, but install it permanently? Without the inner sheetmetal, you have no way to mount the door glass regulator. You could potentially lengthen the 2dr rear 1/4 windows if you have a second set to cut pieces from, but then you would have to weld them together.......no other way to successfully build that, that I can think of! The next issue is that the OEM glass is curved, so no economical way to custom make longer glass.....you would be back to making Lexan (polycarbonate) "glass". TJ

Nope. If you go thru all the trouble to install the 2dr doors, the rear 1/4 windows would fit. If you actually have those rear windows, hold them up to the car.......you will see that the 2dr windows won't fit in place of the 4dr door glass. You might be able to modify the window assemblies, but likely as much work as installing the 2dr doors!! If the 4dr rear doors were simply gutted by unbolting the parts, you should be able to re-install all of the glass, tracks, regulators, small 1/4 windows etc, UNLESS they cut the inner sheetmetal panels out to lighten it...........that would suck cuz you would NOT be able to re-install all those parts! Got pics of the INSIDE of the rear doors?? TJ

Yup, I do NOT see that additional "loop" either!! I sold an upper rail a few years ago, the guy called me after getting it, said it was different........that was the last time I cut up a shell! Good to know this! TJ

Yes, maybe! I wonder if that outer "layered" piece of formed metal is added to the Goon.....?? So this last pic of the yellow one is Goon & of course the one you just cut up is a Goon? I might be cutting up my Sedan this weekend, so will look at that!