yenpit

Factory CLEAR glass 1968-mid 1970/71 Factory TINTED glass mid-1970/71-1973 If the car has been mod'd over the years, you can't always assume it is the glass that came it it......I have seen earlier cars where somebody installed all the later tinted glass, but those were Sedans, not Wagons. I've seen cars with a mix of clear & tinted, cuz it was all they could find when replacing!

That's gotta be it! :thumbup: Save the wiring for illuminating any aftermarket gauge(s) you might install!

Is the wiring to this lamp color coded like all of the Datsun wiring? A solid color + a stripe? Does that wire enter the wiring harness OR is it "tapped" in somewhere? I can't think of what it might be factory OEM,, and there should not be any wiring running up the steering column. I'm guessing you will find it is a solid color wire that someone taped in to the dash lights, turned ON by the headlight switch, perhaps to illuminate an aftermarket gauge or a tach...........

I LOVE reading old sports car magazines from the 50's-60's............craploads of great info, AND then there are the classifieds in the back!! AC Cobra's, Ferrari's, etc etc for a couple thousand $$!! Sure, that was alotta mulla back then, but if only I had a time machine!!!! :rofl: :sneaky: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Thanks Mike, I'll check it out again!!

PS do you know Steve Bonk in Chicago area? He is THE vintage race man in the midwest..........AND he's a kinda cool dood!!! :thumbup: PM me if you need his contact info!

I just restored a 1973 510 engine compartment harness......it's a pain in the rear, but straight forward. If you need another 1972 harness to work with, I should have one, but it will need restoration, and we need to figure out exactly which harness. PM me for details! First, none of the "factory" wiring diagrams in ANY of the manuals, ie Haynes, Chiltons etc etc, are correct for our USA-spec cars with dual points, switch box, etc etc. Are you aware of the "Paolo diagrams"?? If not, email him at paolo@cedarcomm.com, tell him TJ sent you! I just ordered a COMPLETE set for the various years (cuz I work on a bunch of these cars!). Basically, he is the guy that laid each USA-spec year wiring harness COMPLETE out some years ago, and hand drew them........... all of the various year schematics (EXCEPT for the later rare 1973, which is what I needed, but I figured it all out!! :crying: ), printed them in COLOR CODE (!! :thumbup: ), and sells them laminated. He will ask if your car is or was a MANUAL or AUTOMATIC.......wiring is slightly different. You can find some of them online, but I would rather PAY the guy that saved our asses by doing this what he wants, and have it sitting on my work bench in front of my face! ****** Problem........my account here on Ratsun has STOPPED sending me emails when others ask me questions/reply to threads etc, and I don't always come back the next day to look at these threads, SO PM ME if you have any questions!! Datzenmike has tried to fix this issue, but to no avail!! :confused: :confused: . I will try to get back here in next few days!!

Find an AC specialist near you that will help you custom build this system (I bet many shops won't want to deal with it! :crying: ), will order the parts for you etc etc. Use the KA24DE compressor, cuz it will bolt up with correct brackets.....easy! Buy a universal AC condenser (at front) by dimensions to fit what you measure on the car (or measure the dealer installed one if you still have it!!), also taking into consideration where you want the inlet & outlet, based on where the KA compressor is located. Buy a universal receiver drier, mount where suitable. I think the evaporator VALVE will be relatively easy to match up.....replace it! Hope that your stock dealer installed evaporator core is good (if not, have custom made to fit the existing under dash unit OR just go with the universal Vintage Air kit! Your biggest expense will be having the AC hoses made........once you decide on condenser & receiver drier placement, measure for the hoses......they will need to know what style end fittings you need. AC is pretty straight forward, just need to replace most of the components, so you KNOW they are good/new! EastBay, I think you & I talked before holidays?? I hope to dig AC setup out this weekend, will let you know!

Also, many had a white sticky glue/seal, don't know if factory, but may hinder it coming right off.......tug a little, BUT most importantly what INDY510 said ^^^ !!! These late 70-73 vents are plastic, so restoring them is limited! You could send out to re-chrome, but it is a PLASTIC chrome, so would send to a company that does that.......generally the STEEL chrome companies do not do plastic!

Love it! We just picked up another 510 that HAD a VG30 in it, but car is now a rolling chassis with another VG30 pulled out of a 300ZX, sitting on a cart......AC compressor and all! No plans yet, cuz we have other 510 projects, but always liked the idea of a VG powered 510! Is Team Thump still around, still making the install kit??

Do you still need the distributor parts? I might have, just let me know!

Just had same issue with high beams (among other electrical gremlins!), relay on PASSENGER SIDE strut tower, facing fuse box, outer relay closer to fender........heard clicking when high beams switched on, pulled relay off car, found TWO of the wires on underside where the wire/solder had broken! Inside relay, contact set could be bad or broken wire......pry tiny tabs away, open up, check it out! Then................. On ALL relays AND fusebox............soak in white vinegar over night! (you have to open up all the relays, do NOT soak with lids on!). The vinegar cleans all the corrosion off electrical stuff. Once soaked, I wash down with electrical contact cleaner spray (aerosol) or Brakleen, make sure all is dry, reassemble, should work great again! I just re-did ALL of the relays & switches on a 1970 that my buddy just bought, everything works now!

Do the 280ZX struts bolt up & fit the later HL 510's??

Did it work?? :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Yup, VIN stamped on firewall, just to the right of the hood prop bracket, and yup, aluminum VIN tag on the left strut tower facing forward. Nobody here really cares, but if you are re-VIN'ing a car, you will need that firewall chunk cut out of the "donor" car & PROPERLY welded in place! Remember, the backside of that "chunk" welded in place is visible to a trained eye. I walked away from buying a Rotary powered 510, that had a bonded title AND the VIN on the firewall was bondo'd over.......I actually had a buddy in the sellers town go look at the car, and I walked him thru checking all of that for me (I never went to look myself).

Hey datzenmike!! Yeah, been WORKING at a vintage race shop here in Denver (www.igniteperformanceusa.com), so not as much free time to spend on forum! Yes, I have been getting $350 for the L18 SHORTBLOCKS, no cyl heads, almost all going to SCCA guys. I have NOT paid attention to USA-spec (ie early 620) vs JDM-spec SSS, don't know if there is even a way to differentiate......?? No reason not to use em in a street car, I just prefer to use our Datsun BIG BLOCK L20B!! :rofl: :w00t:

I've been getting $350 for the L18 complete SHORTBLOCKS from the SCCA guys.............they need them, and they are getting scarce in most parts of the country east of the west coast! The SCCA guys can not run the L20B's in most groups. Most of the VINTAGE race groups do allow the use of L20B's. A87 casting heads were made in both OPEN chamber & CLOSED/PEANUT chamber, so you must pull the cyl head to assess value. The last three L18's that I pulled the A87 cyl heads off of were all closed chamber.......I got lucky! Hope that helps! TJ Denver

I would think that there would be different 3pt belt retractor units available...... one that would mount down low, usually on the floor/inner rocker panel (utilizing the factory captive nut to mount) and PULL UP.....thus it has a VERTICAL centrifugal catch one that would mount up on the side of the parcel shelf (utilizing the factory captive nut to mount) and PULL FORWARD.....thus it has a HORIZONTAL centrifugal catch. I saw BOTH styles when I was in the British parts industry (MG Triumph etc), AND I have seen units that had a "twist knob" that rotated the centrifugal mechanism to either vertical or horizontal position, thus a more universal unit. This was some years ago, and I would expect that any one of these online seatbelt suppliers would offer that kind of unit......?? The units I sold back then, were Kangol brand, which were made in the UK. I have NOT done any research on what would or would not work in a 510. Bottom line, a 510 FRONT SEAT would use the PULL UP style with a VERTICAL catch......mounts on floor (actually mounts on the inner sill/rocker panel). A 510 REAR SEAT would potentially use a PULL FORWARD style with a HORIZONTAL catch.......that is if the retractor unit was mounted up on the parcel shelf. I have seen many later model cars over the years with factory OEM retractor units stuffed down between the rear seat back & bottom, next to your hip, and I would expect that those would be a PULL UP style, but you would have to get the mounting angle of the retractor unit correct, so that the centrifugal catch works properly. Problem there is that these later model cars had a little "cove" formed into the lower seat bottom, where the retractor unit fit.......the 510 lower seat bottom does not. I don't think there is any room under the rear seat for a retractor unit, where the seat back & seat bottom come together............. I just recently noticed a late model Subbie Forester with a seat belt retractor unit mounted up in the ceiling panel/headliner. That might be a good small OEM unit to mount up on the 510 parcel shelf, BUT it would likely not have a clean "cap" or "cover" to put over the unit so it blends in/looks clean, cuz it's buried up above the hard headliner of that vehicle...............????? Just a thought! Hope some of this helps! TJ

Hey yoniel2...........you PM mailbox is not accepting any messages or it is full (sorry for the hijacked thread)! I have a 510 AC unit that you advertised a WTB for in the classifieds. PM me! TJ

Wow, lookin' great!! I am so glad to see this car get this second chance at life!!

Hey, the door panels on the white 210 in the yard would work, but have a few 'nicks' & speaker holes, but a quick spray bomb and they would look decent!

Hey Aaron! Welcome to the Datsun Sedan world!! Give Dean a try on the A15, hope you guys can make a deal! Man, I saw this 210 on CL, and didn't call........looks like a decent car!! :thumbup: TJ Arvada CO

Yup, went thru that same availability stuff for many years with the British cars! I'll keep an eye out for an early valence for ya!!

Tristin, don't be a hater!! :hug: hahahahahaha!!!!! I did kinda hear Charlie Browns teacher..........Dave, you rock!! :thumbup:

Good lookin' 510! :thumbup: Those look like Corolla wheels...........