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Aaron Datsun

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About Aaron Datsun

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Las Vegas, NV
  • Cars
    75 280z turbo. 1972 510
  • Interests
    Cars, costume making, and video games.

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  1. Aaron Datsun

    S130 Slammage!

    Yeah dude keep rocking it! I have followed your posts from near the beginning, glad to see your still at it. What don't you like about the AE86?
  2. Aaron Datsun

    Aaron's 1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory

    Project Log (1 Sept 18): Start Time: Not Recorded End Time:Not Recorded Tac’d in Firewall and Floorboard today To Do (Daily): ☑ Attached Firewall extender ☑ Tac weld in Floor board 1. I continue to weld in the floorboard, I want to ensure that I get it well secured in the car. I did not have a good way to clamp down the floorboard to the rail I made so the gaps between the rail and the floorboard in a few places is larger than I really want, but it will have to do. I keep burning through the floorboard while welding =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Project Log (8 Sept 18): Start Time: 0945 End Time: 1330 Finished the driver’s floorboard welding today, and then moved on to the rocker panel. To Do (Daily): ☑ Finished welding drivers floorboard Removed doors Cleaned up Rocker Panel 1. The drivers floorboard had a bit more welding to do today, I attempted to weld the frame to the floorboard a bit more today, but was largely unsuccessful welding upside down. I tried bending the frame lip to touch the floorboard a little better, but it seemed to warp away when I started welding The floorboard had 5-6 different places where there were still large holes or seams that needed to be welded to each other. I was largely more successful welding today without large burn-throughs or large globs of weld so that is promising. After it was welded up I got out the grinder and ground down the welds. I made sure to put on a breathing mask, eye protection and ear protection so I wouldn’t be coughing up crap for the rest of the day, and could hear what the family says at dinner. 2. I removed the doors to start work on the rocker panels I figure before I start seam sealing and painting I will replace all the metal on this portion of the car (if possible). The doors came off with 5 bolts each. I marked each of the hinge locations so I can hopefully get them close to lining up when I put it all back together 3. Using a wire wheel I started removing the paint on the rocker panel to see the current extent of damage. They aren’t a total loss, but they are very bad so I will be replacing VERY large portions of the rocker panels. .. .
  3. Aaron Datsun

    Aaron's 75 280Z

    This car is still around and awesome. I drive her daily currently. This summer I have installed a new rubber shift boot, and replaced a brake light. I also got new wheels and tires for her last month as the tires that were on it were getting pretty bald.
  4. Aaron Datsun

    Aaron's 1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory

    Project Log (19 Aug 18): Drivers Floorboard rust repair continues, firewall got cut. The frame piece underneath seems solid, just need to sand it down, get the remaining spot welds out, make a new piece. It was a short day today, just was too hot to do much, and we were doing stuff as a family. To Do (Daily): ☑ Cut the chunk of firewall off 1. Cut the firewall piece out of the way so I can fashion the firewall extension piece. The spot welds were a pain in the bum, but it is nice to get the pieces out of the car Notes: I ran out of welding wire on Saturday and didn’t get to Harbor freight before they closed (Sunday) Images: -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Project Log (24 Aug 18): Start Time: 1730 End Time: 2100 Drivers Floorboard rust repair continues To Do (Daily): ☑ Make the firewall extender sheet metal ☑ Finish Welding the frame rail under the seat and to the old rail ☑ Replace the front corner metal on the side (by the outer skin) ☑ Finish welding up small holes from the floorboard patches I made 1. The firewall has metal that extends down under the floorboard. It goes through in about a 90 degree angle. I measure the panel it is ~ 17.5” long and 7” wide. I created the panel with a ~1” overlap with the firewall the purpose is to attach the panel with spot welds, then use seam sealer to ensure I don’t get a bunch of moisture after adding the panel. The floorboard will also overlap this piece and I will use the same process to connect the floorboard to the firewall panel. The panel was created with a harbor freight metal brake, I added two bends to give the panel a more natural curve that I will finish with a hammer and clamps. I wanted to get this whole panel finished tonight, but realized I needed to paint on the rust converter before welding everything together. The piece was originally too long so I had to trim it down a bit I am still using the metal given to me by a buddy I have been making sure to smooth the sides with a snader so I don’t have a ton of jagged edges 2. I am still not a great welder so the frame rail got finished stitch welded together. This was a weld grind weld grind process, but in the end I think it turned out well and is very solid (compared to the old rusted out frame). I finished the spot welds at the back of the frame as well. 3. The panel that is around the door (kick panel?) . The front corner was completely rusted. I cut it out and welded in another piece. I don’t think the repair will last forever, the metal around that area is pretty bad, but this will help keep moisture out of the new panels going into the car. The rocker panel and front fender definitely need replaced, but I will get to those at a later date 4. There were a few small panels that needed the holes finished welding up, I did that today. Notes: 4 ½” wire wheels are very scary to me. I am always afraid it is going to wrap me up One became a needle and flew off and embedded itself in my leg, it hurt I ripped another pair of shorts today. This summer has been rough on my garage clothes I have had most of my pants/shorts the better part of a decade and they are finally giving up the ghost (the wife is not sad) Still not looking forward to changing the rocker panels, hopefully this will be good practice I did a lot of sanding getting the car ready to go back together
  5. Aaron Datsun

    Aaron's 1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory

    I also added more text content to the past couple posts because I decided to type out the information that was in my paper garage journal. So if you go are revisiting my thread for the first time in a few months I suggest you go back a couple posts to see the work that has been done. Project Log (12 Aug 18): I have been unsuccessful so far in getting a new stock fan for the car, and like an idiot I pitched the old radiator and fan shroud (I know I am an idiot). Somewhere in the past few weeks i replaced the radiator, but forgot to note the time and date. As I wait to find the fan I decided to replace the driver’s side floorboard and perhaps the rocker panel (as it is completely rusted out in the rear) To Do (Daily): ☑ Remove interior ☑ Start removing sound deadening from drivers floor board 1. The carpet and seats removed easily. I put them in a box to get them out of the way 2. The sound deadening removed with a chisel and a hammer fairly easily Remove the large portions with a hammer first Then use a wirewheel to clean up the last of the remnants if you want my opinion on the best way to do this in an efficient manner Remove the undercoating with a wire wheel CAUTION: You Should always wear eye protection, breathing apparatus, and hearing protection when operating a wire wheel or sander (i have been coughing up some nasty crud, be smarter than me) Note: Looking at the situation it is clear to me that I will have to replace the frame rail as well on the drivers side it has given up the ghost and is not doing its job. Link to Timelapse: -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Project Log (13 Aug 18): Drivers Floorboard removal continues, I have removed ~90% of the drivers floorboard, broke my spot weld drill bit in the first ~5 minutes will have to buy another. I have been using the cut off wheel on the 4.5” angle grinder. I have been attempting to be very careful in how I cut and operate the cut off wheel in these close spaces it would be very easy for me to hurt myself a TON. First Floorboard replacement video: encompasses work through 13 August
  6. Aaron Datsun

    Aaron's 1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory

    Well this happened today. The wife really liked it, the paperwork seemed to be in order. We will take delivery next week if all goes well. I don't have a lot of plans for it other than a very deep clean and a bit of engine cleaning as well.
  7. Aaron Datsun

    Aaron's 1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory

    Thanks man I do appreciate the kind words
  8. Aaron Datsun

    Aaron's 1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory

    Lots of work on the car in the past week (interior rust repair), not reflected in this post. I did however add ~50 pictures (likely more) to this build thread feel free to click through and see what I have been up to. I need to get back to making detailed notes. I have somewhat stopped since I make a Youtube video of all of the updates it is like having 3 different forms of the information and it gets tiring and distracts from just working on the car. That being said, my videos only get like 100 views, so maybe I should just stick to pictures and words. Any advice on the videos would be helpful
  9. Aaron Datsun

    Aaron's 1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory

    Here is the video of the alternator replacement, wiring in the fans, replacing the fuel filler neck, and fixing the huge vacuum leak on the 510.
  10. Aaron Datsun

    Aaron's 1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory

    I edited this post to get all of the "in between updates" when my car went into limbo during the move and other things. Project Update: 4 April The plan and information for the electric fan install: I drew up the plans and wired the relay box in an evening, but it took me over 2 months to get it installed. I was out of country for over a month of that, and work has kept me very busy. The above time is just for the wiring schematic and wiring the relay box To Do (Daily): ☑ Determine Wiring Schematic ◻ Wire Relay Box 1. I used my garage journal (hard copy) to write out the schematic below is a picture. I used the relay box linked below to build the box. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KJNPHJ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Project Log (9 Jun 18): Start Time: 1800 End Time: 1830 I have not been idle, but a month long trip overseas definitely puts a damper on working on the car. To recap I have swapped the engine, added a 5 speed, lightened flywheel, electric fans, battery relocated to the trunk. These are all things I have accomplished since picking up the car. Some things that have happened: Radio stopped working Car stopped idling correctly (fixed 25 May) Huge gasoline smell from trunk (fixing today) To Do (Daily): ☑ Replace Hose ☑ Drive See about fixing radio 1. Done it was as simple as taking the old part off (and it was definitely bad), cutting the new hose to length, and reinstalling with clamps I had to remove the metal tube from the filler to the tank on the filler side I had to remove only three hose clamps I had to replace 2 of the original nissan hose clamps as they didn’t fit over the new hose (new hose is thicker) Finished before 1830 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Project Log (26 Jul 18): Start Time: Not Recorded End Time: Not Recorded The goal of today is to fix the oil leak coming from the transmission. To Do (Daily): ☑ Remove the Speedo gear ☑ Replace the seals ☑ Reinstall 1. The speedo gear housing came out pretty easily. There is a small bolt holding the gear on, and the speedo cable itself attached to the housing The leak has put a ton of oil up into the sleeve surrounding the speedo cable I cleaned with with carb cleaner and brake cleaner spraying it into the sleeve up at the firewall, then using compressed air as well Note you should have a rag at the other end to ensure that you don’t make a giant mess The transmission was overfilled (by me) which meant that it immediately dumped a ton of oil out on my shoulder, pretty much soaking the upper part of my shirt. There is very little I like less than getting soaked with oil. 2. Replacing the seal was fairly straight forward. I attempted to remove the pin that locks the speedometer gear in place, but after ~30 minutes of fiddling with it I gave up and just replaced the seal. 3. When I re-installed the speedo gear, I topped off the oil again. And took the car for a test drive No oil leak since The gear installed very easily Notes: I noticed quite a bit of metal shavings from the transmission when the gear popped out. I think I should look into a transmission flush as the transmission was sitting for a while. If this car keeps overheating I am a bit worried about the headgasket Link to Timelapse: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Project Log (28 Jul 18): Start Time: Not Recorded End Time: Not Recorded Want to get the car ready to drive in Vegas so I am going to do some quick checks on everything. I have been fighting overheating on the car, the electric fans do not seem to push much air at all. Going to try and “burp” the system To Do (Daily): ☑ Check Spark Plugs ☑ Reattach Splash Pan ☑ Clean Car (Vacuum) and Garage 1. The spark plugs looked fine none of them were an odd color and seemed to be gapped correctly 2. The car came off the jack (26 Jul) when I was working on the coolant system. I was very lucky that the car came forward and not backwards. It completely bent the splash pan though I used a deadblow and a 2x4 to get the piece mainly righted Then bolted it back up using prying strength to get it back to where it needs to be under the car The jack put a little nic in the paint on the oil pan when it slipped off the crossmember, gosh was that scary I pulled the car out of the garage and it doesn’t seem to overheat, just sitting there. On the test drive I noticed that when I sat at a stoplight the fans just can’t keep up with the heat here. I am once again looking for a stock fan I threw mine away because it was missing a blade, it was an odd 7 blade fan 3. After the move there was small crap in the car that needed to be cleaned out to get the car ready for daily use, I decided to vacuum the car out and sweep up the garage Note: N/A Link to timelapse: N/A -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- General Project Update: Alright just general update time. In the past couple months I have: - Replaced the fuel filler hose - Finished mounting electric fans - Replaced the radiator - Almost destroyed the engine (having the car come off the jack) - Replaced the thermostat - Got new wheels for the Z, which means the 280zx wheels are available for use on the 510. - Ordered new floor pans I have been chasing an overheating issue, I believe I have finally narrowed it down to not enough air movement through the radiator. I recently moved to Las Vegas and it is hotter than heck here and the electric fans can't keep up with the heat when sitting at stop lights. Plans for the next couple months - Get a stock fan back in there - Replace rocker panels - Replace Floor Boards
  11. Aaron Datsun

    Aaron's 1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory

    Project Log: 27 March Built Exhaust and worked on electric fan wiring. I didn't capture this very well, because this was all done before I went out of country for a month. Some notes added below: To Do (Daily): ☑ Make the exhaust ☑ Start the wiring for the the electric fan ☑ Fill the transmission tunnel cut out 1. The Exhaust was not that straight forward I used 2.25" tubing for the exhaust. I started first by cleaning up the ehaust manifold and coating it with VHT high temp exhaust paint I decided not to use the header at this time as everything I have read says that the cast manifold is good at doing its job here I cut my finger pretty badly not being careful with the angle grinder, I suggest everyone be very careful while using angle grinders I first cleaned up the manifold, then I primed and painted it, then I baked it to dry the high-temp paint The exhaust was made with a series of straights and bends I either had on hand or bought from the parts stores. I would create a section, mount to manifold, determine where I need to take it, remove, tac a piece in, check for fitment, weld completely, repeat This took the better part of an 8-10 hour day and is definitely not an A+ exhaust, but it is much quieter than the previous cut exahust Please do not use my exhaust as a template it is bad, but it gets the job done The muffler is a Thrush muffler that I purchased from Advanced Auto and I really like the sound of it. 2. I ran the wires for the fans to the front of the car, now I just need to mount the fans. I have tried really hard on this project to run the wiring very cleanly though the engine bay. 3. I created the template from paper, cut it out of my metal sheet, and welded it in I used bondo to smooth the welds and then hit the hole thing with some paint to make it look nice in the interior Note: I still need to add in better removal flanges Catch all images: Patch Panel for transmission tunnel Replacing the Altenator
  12. Aaron Datsun

    Aaron's 1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory

    Project Log (14-16 Mar 18): Engine Reinstall. To Do (Daily): ☑ Assemble engine ☑ Add Flywheel/clutch ☑ Attach Transmission ☑ Install Engine and Transmission 1. The engine has had small amounts of work done over the past month already, so I don’t go into excruciating detail, this is mainly the final work that accompanied getting the engine in the car Rotate the engine and swapped the oil pan and oil pickup tube Checked the main crankshaft bearing torque specs Everything looked clean and checked out correctly Bolted on the alternator and slid on crank pulley Had a heck of a time getting the bolts to fit the alternator bracket, I finally had to drill the holes out a bit more Added the water pump pulley Installed Dipstick tube Installed water fittings and thermostat housing 2. The flywheel and clutch came with the car. Upon inspection the stock 6-bolt flywheel was lightened down from ~23lb to 19.25lb, that was nice to see I don’t know who lightened the flywheel I picked up the bolts from TJ (A really helpful Datsun guy in Colorado) along with several other parts to make the build nicer and better The clutch is from Clutch masters, I don’t know the specifications it fit, so I used it I ended up making my own flywheel lock, I used the opportunity to tighten the crank pulley down as well when I put on the flywheel bolts I used blue lock tight and torqued them down to specifications NOTE: Don’t forget to install the transmission front cover BEFORE the flywheel 3. Set the new transmission on the pop-up table then adjusted the engine tilt and height with the engine hoist. The transmission slid on so easily I thought I did it wrong before install I added the throwout bearing collar and a “new”, to me, pivot fork, and a new throw out bearing The lower bolts did not fit for the transmission I should steal them from a 280zx if I were going to do this again 4. This went surprisingly easy. I was able to install the engine and transmission combo with little to no drama, as the engine hoist lowered it naturally moved backwards which helped the installation The driver’s side mount lined right up I spent the better part of 3 hours working on the passenger’s side mount How I eventually got it to line up the next day: Greased the surface Used a 3ft long 2by4 to wedge and lever the engine The engine finally rotated the couple degrees into position I used the alignment holes with a large screw driver to fine tune the mount location Finally I had to have the wife come out and pry with a 2by4 so I could get the bolts started Cut a hole in the transmission tunnel to accommodate the shifter being relocated towards the back of the car ~3-4 inches Be CAREFUL, not to cut into the hard lines on the passengers’ side of the trans tunnel I almost did on accident Clean up the cuts with a sander I had to massage the tunnel to get the shifter pin in (read I hit it with a big hammer) The T3 Transmission Mount was great, though I used way to long of bolts which had too large of a non threaded collar at the top of the bolt and poked into the passenger compartment Replaced with bolts from Ace Hardware (one of the many trips to Ace) Attached the driveshaft I had it shortened 5.5” I took the measurements and dropped it off at a local place They had it done in like two days They even repainted and balanced it Total $98 Reconnected speedometer cable and parking brake The Speedometer cable has to be routed to the passengers side now Note: After driving my speedometer is off by ~10 MPH at 40 MPH Notes: While this stuff isn’t rocket science, I found that putting it all back together went well, especially with the clearly marked containers with all of the different bolts I had waiting to reinstall Images:
  13. Aaron Datsun

    Aaron's 1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory

    Thanks man. I always feel like my garage is SO cluttered, but I am finally getting close to having most of the tools I need for most jobs. A new vice and good work bench are on the list of desires for the next year...
  14. Aaron Datsun

    Aaron's 1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory

    Project Log (11 Mar 18): Start Time: Not Recorded End Time: Not Recorded Paint for Engine and Engine Bay. This was done over several days, so it is more like March 11thish. To Do (Daily): ☑ Prep Engine Bay ☑ Paint Engine Bay ☑ Clean Parts 1. Using the grinder, flap discs, and sandpaper I cleaned the engine bay Primer helped show the imperfections Bondo was used to smoothe out transistions I could have done more, but the goal is to have a nice engine bay, not a perfect engine bay Once complete I sanded more, cleaned the entire bay with shop towels and a bit of brake cleaner 2. The paint was color matched by Finish Masters, they did a FANTASTIC job and for what I got it was a great deal. Also their primer is much nicer, albeit expensive, compared to just walmart primer. I used a combination of tape and tinfoil to wrap the parts I did not want to paint I also took the time to paint the crossmember black 3. I re-used many parts, but tried to restore the luster of them before installation. The restoration usually included a good scrub, sanding, painting, and a clear coat. Below is a list of parts I cleaned or transferred over. Alternator and Alternator Bracket (ended up replacing alternator, my taking it apart ruined it) Starter Dipstick Tube Crank Pulley Coolant fittings and hard lines Water pump pulley (Had to cut down the bolts so it wouldn’t hit on the water pump) Note the original fan had a broken fan blade Hard Fuel Lines Hard Brake Lines Splash/Rock Guard Oil Pan Motor Mounts How I cleaned the Parts Gas Scrub with rough steel wool Wipe Down with cloth Spray with Brake Cleaner Wipe down again Buff with fine steel wool or wire wheel it Paint/Clear it Notes: When I painted the engine bay, the paint had a tendency to rub off so I hit it with a clear coat which helped, but I only had Matte on hand I will likely be re-spraying the engine bay in the years to come, but I will be painting the whole car at that point likely. Images: PULL! Links to Timelapse: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gM_eVVwA0sY&index=10&list=PLLssIyjv-gNXYYNhGGEvCo3Otv7SUO5Xa
  15. Aaron Datsun

    Aaron's 1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory

    Project Log (9 Mar 18): Start Time: Not Recorded End Time: Not Recorded Repaired the rust in the engine bay. This took place over several days and many hours. I learned a lot. One of those things is that I am not the best welder, but I am getting better To Do (Daily): ☑ Front Cross frame driver and passengers side replaced ☑ Passengers side wheel well ☑ Drivers side wheel well ☑ Passengers Side Inner front fender ☑ Weld up MIscellaneous small holes 1. I learned a valuable lesson from the trunk. You need the patch panel to be as perfectly shaped as humanly possible, it saves you time in the long run BOth pieces were ~2” wide with an approximate length of 12” Flap discs are great for small material removal on a patch panel Tac the pieces moving around the perimeter A small hammer can help with shaping My Process Hold patch panel in place with magnets Tac weld at corners Remove magnets Fully weld, by adding small tac-welds around the perimeter then small ~1” beads Grind Repeat the last couple steps until satisfied 2. Cut outer and Inner Skin for the wheel well I attempted to cut out the spot-welds, this was pointless as both the inner and outer skins were TOAST (read rusted completely through) Suggest cutting inner skin ~1-2” beyond the outer skin so you are not having to weld on top of your own welds NOTE The fuel line runs right behind this panel, please move it first! I drilled small holes to put “Spot welds” on the outer skin There is a slight curve in both panels, i replicated it by adding a slight bend across my leg and a hammer After welding it in, I hit the backside with some rubberized undercoating 3. Very similar to the passengers side, this rust wasn’t as bad Must disconnect the steering box Very Large Bolts No Fuel line Brake proportioning valve gets in the way, if you haven’t removed the it, now is the time 4. This panel was terrible. It started out as a 2”x3” patch and ended as a 5”x5” patch The metal was much weaker than anticipated could not get the welds to “bite” This is the reason they make Bondo THis is also why I need a better welder 5. The assorted holes I tac’d around the outside. I should have used a “Brass Spoon” to help with these welds. I did not know that such a thing existed. Notes: Welder with gas and much smaller wire 0.025” wire would be better Weld/Grind x5 seems to be my repeat number Panels inside the engine bay sound so much more solid now This little project is getting a bit more expensive $98 Drive Shaft Shortened $60 Paint and Rust Converter $60 Flywheel bolts, 280zx shifter, random little stuff (trust me it was a good deal) $13 Relay box for electric fans $20 Header Paint $60 Assorted Hardware (Thanks Ace) $20 Transmission Mount (510 Mount doesn’t work) Images: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1878/43264342235_974dc76248_z.jpg[/img] Links to Timelapse:

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