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About distributorguy

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  • Birthday 09/11/1970

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    Metropolis, MN
  • Cars
    77 Datsun 620, 73 Datsun 620
  • Interests
    Rebuilding classic vehicle distributors
    Racing Bonneville
  • Occupation
    Irish terrier wrangler

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  1. Running too rich gives you a lopey idle that people can mistake for a bigger cam. Removing the MAF should make the engine go rich, as a safety measure, so having the engine run leaner when you remove it tells me either its calibrated wrong or wired wrong. Or your ignition isn't up to par, causing your rich mixture? High resistance plug wires? What do they Ohm at? Cheap replacement coil packs? You probably know this but if not, the shielding wires need to only be grounded on one end, and need to stay very clear of other wiring connections. Bare wires in the ignition can be causing your whole problem. Looking at your MAF connector tells me you need to completely rewire this thing to get it to run properly. Sorry but that harness is a mess, and the wiring is likely the cause of your issues. Its these hidden problems that give false signals. Visually inspect and "wiggle test" each wire. Or build a Microsquirt system with a new harness and switch to a generic MAP sensor. Maybe $450 and you'll be up and running?
  2. Sick build!!! 👌 Pierce Manifolds in CA is a Weber specialist, but they may have your jets.
  3. distributorguy

    Bent valve?

    A vacuum leak allows air in to replace what should be your fuel mixture, so the engine goes lean. Then it diesels and stalls. Fix ALL the vacuum leaks before starting the engine again, or you WILL be pulling the head soon. A loose rocker is what you were supposed to be looking for when you pulled the valve cover. Get a manual and read it until you understand what to look for. If you're looking at parts that you can't identify and don't know why they are there, what are you expecting to find? Start by figuring out "valve lash" and what lash pads are.
  4. Its possible that your new MAF pinout is different from the old one? Eliminating it shouldn't result in better running unless either its bad, or wired wrong.
  5. distributorguy

    Bent valve?

    Maybe remove the spark plugs to see if one or more are fouled? Start with the easy stuff first and assume total chaos last? Maybe your first step should be to buy a shop manual. The diagnostic sections are very helpful and its a good investment for some day when you WILL need to remove the head.
  6. And the same for the plug wires. Measure end to end. If the meter is set too low, it'll read as an open circuit.
  7. I'm using a mix of whatever was left over from the 6 or 8 sets I've purchased in the last 3 years, plus a Nismo head gasket. I just glue them up good. The old Blue rear main seal is the best fitting one - the orange ones are a loose fit in comparison, but they work. I think what I have laying around now is ITM, Mahle, 1 set with an eagle on the package not made in USA, and a long missing brand I can't recall. I just buy whatever RockAuto has, hopefully with the square port exhaust gaskets. They're getting more difficult to find.
  8. I have an HKS set here. They're ok. I won't call it a sub-par set but its definitely not a premium set. It'll keep the oil in, most of it anyway. Duax, I talked to one of the the Cometic guys at PRI last Winter who said he'd make sure that if I sent in a gasket, they could modify their 6 cylinder platform and make it work for the L20b. New production technology, so its worth a shot. They definitely want to expand their product line!
  9. Take out those resistor plugs. The R means there's a 5000 Ohm resistor in each plug. You do NOT want that. I'd speculate your plug wires have another 7000 Ohms each or more. You want a total of 2000 Ohm or less between the plugs and wires, per cylinder.
  10. The heater hose outlet on the back of the head, opposite side works perfectly for this. Enough coolant flows through that hose to push coolant through the back of the head, tested and proven at Bonneville. Don't heat the intake. That's a fine band-aid for stock smog engine, but there are so many better ways to deal with carburetion. DO NOT overtighten fittings on the T-stat housing or it WILL crack, especially when you start making the holes bigger. If it needs repair, get it welded and start over. $30 project. Glad to see you finally came to your senses about the coolant sensor. If you want detailed photos of what we're doing with the race motor for cooling/plumbing/efi/etc... its all street-worthy and I'd be happy to text or email you details. 612-804-5543
  11. Cometic will make head gaskets if you send them a sample to work with. With boost, this is possible but as has already been said, it won't hold up long. I can attest the oil pump drive gear won't last long, so plan on dry sump. The cam towers , well, you're going to want a few spares. Ceramic coat everything internal to prevent meltdown. Buy better rods than Pauter, or get them resized before install. Don't stick with stock rod journals if you;re ordering everything else custom. Pick a common journal size that allows you to get 2 or 3 sizes of quality race bearings - like ACL in a +1, +10, +20 or you'll need a new crank on each rebuild because cheap rod bearings will last minutes not days. 180-200 hp NA is "easy" and can be built to be streetable, then add 40 lbs of boost... This could be a really fun, drivable street engine. Mike should drive my race truck so he can see how streetable it could be. The only thing temperamental about the whole truck is the driver with the limited visibility from the race seat and cage.
  12. Making those bushings from brass is a really simple mini-lathe project. Then you can custom fit them for better clearances.
  13. distributorguy

    74 620 V8 Swap

    A set of cheap Ebay heads professionally ported (since it looks like you already have a Vortec engine?) with a good solid roller cam and the right carb, that should put you solidly into the 400's, but at a price tag of around $3000. The decent cam/lifter kit is $1250+. You can save $ by only having half the driveshaft custom built, but a full length aluminum version might be a good idea. The Ebay heads generally just need around 10% more flow on the exhaust side - too restrictive. DIY porting and you're in for under $700 for new and improved heads that flow well over 300 cfm. Skip the ladder bars and have a custom set of main leaf springs made with a higher spring rate (thicker). That'll prevent wheel hop and axle wrap, as well as eliminate a couple other leafs to reduce weight. Stack the lower springs further forward to also aid in reducing wrap. You can pick your ride height at that point - with reverse spring eyes and no lowering blocks. Measure your center-to-center distance you want and the main spring will end up a bit shorter than stock.
  14. The word "at". Spark at the spark plug versus spark at the coil. Irridium plugs are high resistance and shouldn't be used in a carbureted system. They are designed for use with coil-on-plug. You need low resistance plugs and wires, or your spark quality suffers greatly. Add fuel - see if it starts. Starting fluid. You need fuel and spark, so adding fuel will tell you if its a carb issue.
  15. From my experience, the cam towers are not machined for a specific head, or on a specific head, so you can switch them around with no ill effects. Use the best ones you have - cam towers, rocker arms, etc... If you can put compressed air into your cylinders while at TDC firing stroke, you can listen for bad valve seats or piston rings via air escaping where it shouldn't. You don't have to do it with a leak-down gauge set, but it would gauge how bad an existing problem is. Don't just yank the head or diagnosing problems is harder. If you want to verify timing, there is an alignment dot on the oil pump housing and on the distributor drive gear that will come out with it, to go along with all the other steps you've already taken.
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