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distributorguy

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About distributorguy

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/11/1970

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    http://advanceddistributors.com/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Metropolis, MN
  • Cars
    77 Datsun 620, 73 Datsun 620
  • Interests
    Rebuilding classic vehicle distributors
    Racing Bonneville
  • Occupation
    Irish terrier wrangler

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  1. The word "at". Spark at the spark plug versus spark at the coil. Irridium plugs are high resistance and shouldn't be used in a carbureted system. They are designed for use with coil-on-plug. You need low resistance plugs and wires, or your spark quality suffers greatly. Add fuel - see if it starts. Starting fluid. You need fuel and spark, so adding fuel will tell you if its a carb issue.
  2. From my experience, the cam towers are not machined for a specific head, or on a specific head, so you can switch them around with no ill effects. Use the best ones you have - cam towers, rocker arms, etc... If you can put compressed air into your cylinders while at TDC firing stroke, you can listen for bad valve seats or piston rings via air escaping where it shouldn't. You don't have to do it with a leak-down gauge set, but it would gauge how bad an existing problem is. Don't just yank the head or diagnosing problems is harder. If you want to verify timing, there is an alignment dot on the oil pump housing and on the distributor drive gear that will come out with it, to go along with all the other steps you've already taken.
  3. What's happening at the T-stat is real, and that's what the ECU is going to want to know. It doesn't want the "dumbed down" version, which isn't even an option. That plug in the block is at the bottom (coldest) part of the cooling system, and the intake is always going to run much cooler - by 10-25 degrees. My EFI is run off a sensor at the T-stat housing, and its well tuned. A 13.5:1 engine can idle at 650 rpm and has more low end torque than the stock motor - it'll actually do a burn out if you try, which is decent for a cam with a power range of 4500-9600 rpm. Just put it in the stat housing.
  4. The electronic distributors all use the "other" pedestal and clamp plate versus points distributors, if you want an easy install. Looking at Mike's photos, the upper pedestals are for points and the lower for electronics (if memory serves) used with the appropriate clamping plate. Of course you can mix and match and get where you need to be if you have time to modify them.
  5. If your compression really is that low across the board, its likely one of two things: 1. corrosion on the valve seats and holding the rings stuck to the pistons so they don't seal, and rust on the valve seats 2. the timing chain jumped or was installed wrong and the cam timing is all wrong - off by about 2 teeth at the cam sprocket. A leak-down test is done with the valves on the specific cylinder your testing closed, so it'll let you know if the valve seats or rings are leaking (by hearing bypassing air.) That's prove or disprove #1. A visual inspection using your Datsun shop manual can confirm #2. #3 is the next step. You can buy a bore scope for under $30 on Ebay or Amazon that uses your smartphone as the display. Take a look in the cylinders before pulling the head for any deep gouges in the cylinder walls. Scuffing can be acceptable, but gouges are problematic and will be obvious if they exist.
  6. If I recall I tapered it from 1 3/4 - 2 1/4" about a foot long? Its actually something I had laying around for metal shaping (hammering on.) Then I drilled a hole in the top and tied a piece of heavy fencing wire to it so I can pull it back out of the block. You should be able to scale it from one of the many pics already on this site showing what the ones you can buy look like.
  7. Depends on the hose... A smaller hose could be too thin and not hold the tensioner in place very well. I'd try a more solid object...
  8. Don't go pulling the head until you verify the gasket is bad. there are 2 ways: compression test block tester: its a contraption you put over the radiator and run the engine. It checks the coolant for carbon monoxide and the fluid changes form blue to yellow if there is exhaust gas in the coolant. Napa sells and loans them.
  9. I used wedge shaped chunk of red oak.
  10. Heat can also come from a closing point gap that retards engine timing. Or a vacuum leak. Or a weak fuel pump. Or bent float tabs in Webers.
  11. Put it in the thermostat housing where ALL the coolant constantly flows, and its the hottest you'll see anywhere int he engine. That's where we run ours with EFI. The heater hose is extremely problematic - worst possible place. The intake manifold is what you do on V8s where coolant flows through the intake where the T-stat is located. Remove the vacuum switch that you're not using and install the sensor, right adjacent to your other coolant temp sensor for the dash gauge. Or did the factory put it in the wrong place??? 🤭
  12. Unfortunately we don't have the time or budget to race multiple times a season. Its 2700 miles round trip - a significant pilgrimage! Plus we really don't have a legitimate race motor right now.
  13. The Holden front end looks a lot like MGB, only a lot more expensive, heavier, no rack and pinion, and likely too stiff shocks/springs? Look at track width too, to be sure it won't turn into a dead-end.
  14. Just got the stroked and balanced L18 crank back from the grinder. It'll get coated in-house to shed oil, plus paint the back of the lightened and balanced flywheel. Then off to making bearings shims for the mains on the block. I'll use the L18 caps so I'll only need to capture 1 bearing spacer and they can't spin. Then the block goes to get line bored/honed. After the crank is in place, I'll be designing pistons, or using what Rebello has to offer, plus a mod or 2. Deck height should land pretty much where it was before but I need to verify. Then I have a new trick I'd like to incorporate in the piston design. Hopefully JE or CP can pull it off??? I hope to have the short block done before the new year, then focus on the head until Spring.
  15. Re-reading your post, you need the sensor "at least" 2' from the port. Any closer and you shock the O2 and damage it. Your best bet for an O2 controller is the gauge that can both display and acts as its own controller. Wiring is far less cluttered. One less thing to mount under the dash. https://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-MTX-L-Wideband-Ratio/dp/B004MDT8MW This way you can skip the LC-2 which becomes a pain in the ass and needs to be recalibrated frequently. Sensors are less expensive than the early kind, but can fail more often if out of spec too frequently. Don't forget to order a mount for the gauge - either a plate or cup style. If you plan to use the distributor, it'll be simpler but you'll need to get it recurved to suit. I can do that very effectively. I suggest using single points not electronics to make the signal clean. Then you can skip the cam sensor. If you chose to use a cam sensor, then you need a crank trigger installed (you really need it anyway) and you could add coil packs and go distributorless. That's a major plus. I used the expensive Innnovate coil packs and don't regret it. If i send you a tune file, you'll need to make a LOT of changes unless you go to distributorless with the same cam sensor and coil packs. Its anything but easy.
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