yenpit

The OEM steel fenders are LIGHT to begin with! You can drill large holes in cool patterns, throughout the body shell, like many purpose built race cars, but again, the sheetmetal is already very thin on the Datsun's, so already pretty light. Polycarbonate (Lexan) windows take out alot of weight, but they are MUCH more effort to keep from getting all scratched up, especially on a street car. We use microfiber cloths to clean ours on our vintage race 240Z's & they still eventually get scratched. We run standard GLASS windshields, no door glass, poly 1/4 windows & poly hatch glass. Other way to look at this scenario, is that you are adding MUCH more power to an already light weight car. Don't blast me.......but there is a point where too much power is simply too much!

You do NOT need to host & post any more........they intro'd a new system for posting pics! Click to open a reply window, look lower left of window, see "Drag files here to attach, or choose files.....", pull pics right off of your PC or cell! The only issue I have had is that there is a 4MB maximum per pic, so if that large, you would need to shrink it down & then post. I rarely post here on my iphone...........I almost always use my PC, so hopefully it works the same........??

If a 1980, it is NA, not turbo........at least here in the States! The intake layout looks like a typical NA, not turbo. The vin tag states 132hp, which is also NA, not turbo. We buy ZX parts cars, usually pay $350-650 max, when in rough shape, not running etc. Parting one out has never netted a good return. We keep the L28, manual trans, rear diff, wheels & front strut assemblies, then sell other parts cheap for a few weeks, then scrap the rest.

I agree with datzenmike............consumable items are relatively easy, often shared with other models etc, but trim parts are gonna be tough. FYI if you go forward & want to lower, pretty sure the front suspension is basically same as 68-73 510.............you should be able to use the upper camber plates, RCA's, maybe poly bushings etc etc. I do NOT know if the spindle angle is same as 68-73 510 to use 280ZX strut assemblies, but I think they are........?? Is rear suspension IRS or solid axle? Solid axle is EASY....lowering blocks. Hainz posted somewhere to use Belltech #6202 lowering block kit.

Buy a small aftermarket, install on passenger side of speedo cluster where the dummy lights are. Few years ago, I found a name brand aftermarket, small enough to fit the INSIDE circle of the dummy light pod, thus saving the dummy lights. Some careful measuring & cutting, fit great! Sorry, can't remember brand!

Click on the text line as if you wanted to write a response, text window pops open. Near bottom left of window, it says "Drag files here to attach or choose files......". I click on "choose files" which opens a link to pull pics out of your PC or iphone photo file (if PC, of course you need to download from iphone or digital camera). Hope that helps with pics!

I just looked on RA, was cornfuzed, so looked at my 620 parts truck! The 620 has a 1pc "tie rod assembly" WITH the ball joints (tie rod ends) built in on each end, from knuckle to a center link. Listed as "right" & "left". Not cheap on RA, but they list them! The center link has replaceable tie rod ends & they do look like they are opposite threads.....one standard right hand thread, the other left hand thread. I see them listed separately, out of stock as you said, but I also see this "center link" listed as an assembly, sold as a unit WITH tie rod ends, so that's easy too! Looks like everything is available. If you only want the rubber boots, you might try Nissan to see if they are available OEM.....?? I buy ALL of my OEM parts from Riley at Lynchburg Nissan in VA, email parts@lynchburgnissan.com, then Courtesy Nissan in TX or Chico Nissan in CA. I've read that there is a dealership or two in the upper NW that will also help with classic Datsun parts............most dealerships won't, cuz too old, they don't know what a Datsun is!!!! 🤣 Hope that helps!

If you already have this later NAPZ 5spd, find a 71-78 (not the early 70-71) 240 260 280Z 4spd, pull the front case half (bellhousing ) & bolt on swap to the NAPZ 5spd. This bellhousing will correct the clocking, thus alleviates the bad tilt! I have sold 10++ of these 4spd bellhousings for this swap. Expect to pay $100-150 + shipping for the 4spd bellhousing. I do not have any at this moment, but I do have a 280Z parts car with the 4spd in it, but we are going racing at COTA in TX, back after Nov 11th. FYI if you were looking to install the even later 240SX 5spd, that trans has a larger front bearing, which requires machining out the bellhousing to fit the 240SX trans.

This...................👍

I keep at least one driveshaft front yoke around to use as a plug in back of trans for when pulling out!

d.p I have collected those flat spade coil terminals off of old junk coils for years.....you can also pull them off of British MG Triumph etc if any of those around or a local shop that works on them. Bet most 70's - 80's Japanese cars will have something similar...............?? Happy to send you two if you need 😁

I doubt you would see a noticeable difference on a basically stock L16, with varying lengths of the trumpets (velocity stacks).........but I understand TRYING to get all the power you can, based on others experience. Firstly, spend the mulla on a good set (regardless of what length you choose) of trumpets, that have a fully rounded OD of the "bell" (machined), as opposed to the ones that have a sharp edge on the OD of the "bell" (typically stamped). The sharp edge trumpets tend to break up the air flow, whereas the fully rounded ones do not..........these are the potential details where you might find a HP or two! Here in the States, British performance business owner David Anton at Advanced Performance Technology (APT) sells these rounded trumpets...........I would expect that you could find a similar product in the UK, if not his product! British engine builder David Vizard wrote a number of books on these finite details, where you CAN find more horsepower in an engine, however you will likely find that a basically stock engine will NOT respond to a similar modification, as a "built" engine. Vizard specialized in British cars & Chevy's (beleive it or not!). Example, an L20B will likely produce more additional power than an L16, doing a similar mod...........simply because it is a bigger engine etc. As Hainz says, we here in the States are greatly limited to what length intake runner, what length trumpets & what air filters we can use, because our BMC is on the left side, limiting our space for "the best parts". I would think that the intake that you use (various runner lengths) will be more important than the length of the trumpets (velocity stacks). There are short runner intakes & long runner intakes........just like the British MG, if you have any experience there or other buddies/acquaintances etc that do. One runner length produces more low end torque, the other produces a higher power band etc, with MANY variables in between..............sorry, I'm drawing a blank as to which runner length is best in any given application! Do you have the Frank Honzowitz (sp??) book and/or "How to Hot Rod Your Datsun"? Those might be the same......?? One is considered the Datsun performance bible..........an absolute must have for reading & learning the tricks of the trade!! Hope some of that helps guide!

Ha, thanks Mike! Yup, I actually sold that L20B front sump pan, but it was a number of years ago. If I recall, the passenger rear dipstick TUBE was still in place in the block, with a cap & of course, it had the added front sump dipstick passenger front. I remember contemplating whether to cap the front tube or remove & press in a "freeze plug" or tap & plug.....?? Hell, I must have sold that L20B too, cuz I don't remember running it! And yes, at some point, I remember seeing a "boss" where a rumored dipstick could have been used, but just a "boss"..........no tube, no hole. I think there was even another L20B that had the dipstick DRIVERS side rear.....maybe a commercial application, not automotive.........?? Maybe it was an L16 or L18...........🙄

This is just too cool! I'm gonna need a few parts that he is making for my 521, and I've also chatted with Jake about doing some 510 parts. Like most, I have no experience MAKING the parts, but I've been involved in the British auto parts industry for many years, seeing repop parts go from absolute crap in the 80's, to what is offered today, often leaps & bounds better! TJ Denver CO

I still have the Sugar Daddy 510 AFX order form, that I got with a Sugar Daddy bar when I was a kid! Don't know why I didn't order it OR why I kept the form! This was the only way to get the Sugar Daddy car! You guys seen what a new in box mint Sugar Daddy 510 sells for? Last I saw $1200!! 😂

I've heard nothing but GOOD about DatSport & the quality of their rubber parts............ 😎 We have to use Precision front & rear glass seals on our 240Z vintage race cars, cuz I don't think anybody else makes them. They fit fair, the corners pucker & don't fit great, and although our cars look great, we simply use the Precision seals cuz they do "work" ok for us!

You selling the updated relay "kit"? 😎

So the 521 is switch to power AND half SAE hardware, half metric?? What have I gotten myself into?? 😆 Just found out Saturday that some schlub used the wrong bolts to mount the radiator in...........basically forced them into the captive nuts on the rad core support. One is so stripped now, it is stuck.

I have a blue 720 console up on eBay now. They are what I call "real plastic", like an old AMT Revell etc model, that CAN be easily prepped & painted to suit your needs (newer cars are polypropylene plastic, which paint does not adhere to long term). TJ

Budget....just buy something like the KYB Excel's, cuz cheap & decent quality. 1978 should have replaceable strut INSERTS all four corners 😁

😆

I have installed a similar "bulb seal with welting" on a 510. This bulb seal mounts on the door jamb pinch weld, NOT on the door. If a resto, use OEM style, but if a restomod, the bulb seal is a great alternative! I will be using bulb seal on my 521, like crashtd420 did.............😁