yenpit

A guy named Paolo drew up those killer cool color schematics, I think back in 1996...............he still sells them. I bought his complete set. None of the aftermarket manuals ie Haynes Chilton's Clymer's etc, had the correct USA spec schematics.............close, but not all together correct. However, Paolo never drew up the early 6 mo 1970 production with the round speedo & it is different, cuz I had one. The dash harness had a meltdown, I tried the later 1970-1972 dash harness, did not plug in. I tried the 1969 sweeper dash harness, did not plug in. I finally found the correct PART # dash harness & it plugged right in & works to this day. He also never drew up the 1973 2dr Sedan (again, no 4dr or Wagon in 1973) & it too is different than the late 1970-1972. I had a 1973 model year, that I had to repair the hacked up engine bay harness & it did not match up to the 1972 schematic. That was a guessing game, bub I figured it all out, loosely based on the later 1970-1972 & worked out great! Ahhhhh, old classic cars! 🙄

I don't see a model year or date on this schematic, so don't count on it being correct for a 69-70! See my previous post as to model year applications! If I was to GUESS, I would say this one is the most common late 1970-1972...........it does clarify it is for the Sedan (not Wagon) & that it is for the MANUAL trans.

All three of the 510 harness sections (engine compartment, dash & tail) had a white plastic "tag" on them, with the part # & a date code. The engine compartment harness tag USUALLY fell off, cuz it is out in the weather............the dash & tail tags were usually intact. Post all of the numbers & letters on the tags, maybe we can help! If the engine compartment tag is missing, try to plug it in to the dash harness, AND THEN triple check that the wire color codes match to each other in every plug! If they match, then you should have a matched harness set. If so, the part # & date code will guide you to the correct wiring schematic (like pictured above). There are 1969 model year cars TITLED as 1970, cuz they did not sell until after Jan 1970, thus titled as such. Is your car a 1969 or 1970 model year? Does it have the 1969 "sweeper speedo" or the 1970-1973 "round speedo"? What is the PRODUCTION DATE on the B pillar vin tag? It is tricky to narrow down the model year by the actual vin #. 1969 with the "sweeper speedo" had its own unique wiring harness. The Sedan differed from the Wagon. The manual differed from the auto. Early first 6 months of production 1970 with the "round speedo" had its own unique wiring harness. The Sedan differed from the Wagon. The manual differed from the auto. Late 1970-1972 the wiring harness was basically the same, with some added Federally mandated emission stuff wired in, but easily bypassed. The Sedan differed from the Wagon. The manual differed from the auto. The 1973 2dr Sedan (no 4dr or Wagon for 1973) had its own unique wiring harness. The manual differed from the auto. You can ultimately install any 1970-1973 manual trans Sedan harness, but you might struggle with minor details.........you already stated you don't like electrical! Yup, some footwork to do, but with patience, we can help! TJ

I'm in Arvada, have some misc 620 parts! We build full custom roll cages in house for lots of vintage road race, including the Z cars, but everything I've read about installing a cage in a STANDARD CAB mini truck is the gross lack of room to build a proper cage, most of the problem is fitting in the whatever seating you choose. If a King Cab, you will have a little more room, but still a task to squeeze it all in! PM me! Yup, this was one hell of a SNOW storm!! 😣 😎 TJ

RLJ how tall are you? We have re-located the upper mounting point to about 6inches BELOW the upper headliner rail, where ALL of the cars had a captive nut to install a shoulder belt. Lowering the upper mounting point greatly improves how the shoulder belt crosses over your neck & shoulder..........the factory mounting point up higher tended to run the belt across your neck, VERY uncomfortable! I believe that ALL 69-71 Sedans & Wagons had a "rigid" shoulder belt..........it adjusted, but it was not a retractor style like all of today's cars. In 72-73 all had a retractor style belt system, similar to today's cars. The retractor unit was mounted on the inner rocker panel/sill, near the bottom of the B pillar. There will also be a captive nut down there, welded in place. Most USED 72-73 belts are old & crusty and do not work well. We install a UNIVERSAL fitment 3pt retractor seat belt assemble, sourced online from various seat belt suppliers, but seatbeltplanet recently released a kit, using their universal belts & hardware, but proven to work well in the 68-73 510! Try this link below.........sorry, I'm a technaphobe, hope the link works! 🥴 https://www.seatbeltplanet.com/i-30499406-1968-1973-datsun-510-driver-passenger-seat-belt-kit.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0vvzqaK17wIVSb7ACh0kDAccEAQYASABEgLEaPD_BwE

Is the JDM SSS Coupe lower door shell the same as the USA spec 2dr Sedan lower door shell? Randy & I are talking about having me ship him a USA spec 2dr Sedan lower door shell MINUS the upper frame (to vastly save on shipping costs!). Thanks in advance! TJ

Dave has told me that dealing with Musclecar GT has been a MASSIVE pain in the rear..........horrible customer service. That is one reason why Gerson at kfvintagejdm is jumping in on the band wagon.............he KNOWS how to take care of buyers (we have bought LOTS of Z & 510 parts so far) & understands what customer service is. That said, Dave would likely explain that a special order from them would not be quick by any means!

Now THIS was an entertaining post! This really is a good place to be............😎

I think Gerson at kfvintagejdm.com plans on offering a door skin, but don't think it is a priority.........so many other parts in higher demand! If I was to GUESS, yes, the lower door skin/shell would be the same 2dr Sedan vs Coupe. If you by chance have an opportunity to buy a good USED 2dr Sedan door, the upper window frame is welded in & I bet you could swap that. I have looked at removing the upper frame to more easily ship a door, but simply have not done it...........I've been looking for a wrecked door to experiment with! That said, you could have a seller cut off the upper frame, to make shipping much easier! What side door do you need? Remember we are opposite sides! I see in your sig, that you have a SSS Coupe? So do you need YOUR drivers door (right side) or your passengers door (left side)? I will have YOUR drivers door (right side), but I will NOT have your passengers door...............ugh that was a lot of effort to type that!! 🥴 I can ship one internationally, but I can NOT get you a shipping quote..........would have to actually box it up to do that, that doesn't work. If you measure your lower door shell, without the frame (trust me, you do not want to pay for the shipping cost WITH the frame on it!! 😫), then ADD some dimensions for proper packing (yes, I am a confident shipper, so no worries) & then rough estimate the weight, you can likely go online to get a ROUGH ESTIMATE on shipping cost. We can talk more details in messenger, if interested! TJ

We had the shop use a plastic media on this particular car, to be absolutely sure there would be no damage from heat/friction, as it was a completely unmolested 1970 240Z "Series 1". The car was parked 20++ years ago, sat out in a field, so pretty well baked by the Colorado sun.......but again, VERY original car!

'Sup Jeff!! 😎 So this is his race truck......bad ass, but it is a full blown race truck. Look how much room it takes up.............like datzenmike & demo said, there is no good way to cage the cab of a Datsun truck for road use. And yes, the tight confines of a cage inside the cab makes it MUCH more dangerous in an accident, of a head injury. Now, I always loved the look of a nice roll bar hoop & legs in the BED of the mini trucks, but that will not help you if you get hit in the cab! Drive AWARE of all of the other idiots around you!! TJ Denver CO

This really surprised us recently, once we had a 1970 240Z Series 1 media blasted! This is a completely unmolested car, with no visible body damage. In this pic, you can see how crude the welding was (it is factory welding), but what REALLY surprised us, was the hammer marks, to beat the upper fender rail into submission, to fit the A pillar! Initially, we thought it was a repair, but the other side is the same. Then we looked at another 1971 in our shop, also media blasted...........exactly the same thing! My point here, is that even when NEW, the Datsun panels were not perfectly fitted. I tell everyone the same thing about body panels, especially aftermarket panels.............they all need some kind of massaging! 😎

FutoFab & Z Car Depot both sell the same Musclecar GT panels, which are all made in Asia. Some of the panels are good, some are not. All of the panels are full replacement panels ie full rear 1/4 panels etc...............they do NOT make any smaller "patch/repair panels", which is what most people want/need. Sure, some restoration/builds require full panels ie rear 1/4's, but most only need smaller patch/repair panels. kfvintagejdm.com makes his own patch/repair panels, out of Bogata Columbia South America, where is has his stamping plant, already set up for his VW panel production. Gerson has been manufacturing air cooled VW panels for 25-30 years..........documented as one of the best VW panel manufacturers in the world! He started manufacturing classic Japanese panels I think in late 2019. He is adding NEW products as quickly as he can.......many more to come. His panels are all 3D scanned off of nice clean USED panels or NOS panels that he has been buying. Gerson is making some full replacement panels, but many of his panels are smaller patch panels, that nobody else in the USA offers. We have already used a number of his Z car panels & they are FAR BETTER in fitment & quality than anything else offered here in the USA (there are apparently one or two other Z car panel beaters in Europe, one being in the UK). For 510 panels, the only other manufacturer worth mentioning is out of Australia, but the shipping costs sucks. Please don't waste your hard earned money on ANY of the AlfaParts/Wolf Steel panels for the 510...........they are horrible quality!!!!! 😫

Nope, absolutely no info. It was a busy day, quickly read the message, figured go back later.......could not find it again. I remember thinking that the layout of the message page was different 🙄😑

I have all of my known messages..............I simply don't know WHO messaged me & that message is NOT in my inbox! Fudge 🤔

Yer the BESTEST!! 😎 But I still haven't figured out how to do it like you said!! 😝

It was here..........Ratsun has a much more "colorful" background! Was odd, it was a private message page I had never seen before & now can't find again! 😣 It's prolly datzenmike's fault...........🤣

Somebody sent me a private message on these a few weeks ago..............I read it, but now I can't find it..............it's NOT in the normal PM page! TJ

I had a 510 with a similar situation.......PO tried to modify the stock "location" & added some unknown rear calipers. They welded big narly brackets for the calipers, for the rear sway bar & for the coilover rear shocks. To me, it was a gagglefuk of a mess of metal & welding. That car got a stock set of rear control arms & sold the project. I hung on to those welded up control arms for a few years & only recently decided that they were junk & taking up space. We needed a control arm to mock up a set of the FutoFab/Byron adjuster kit, we did NOT need the bulk of a complete control arm, so we cut off the majority of the welded up control arm, only to have the rigid arch from bushing to bushing, to be used as a "tool" to set up the adjuster kit, again, without the hassle of that big cumbersome control arm! Yes, we will keep that chunk to use again as a mock up tool! Yes, I will pull the stub axle flanges out of the "hub", which is now scrap metal! I get fab'ing & building your own stuff, but if it is NOT done well & gets passed on to a new owner, it becomes more of a headache for the new buyer! That is why FutoFab, Ermish, T3 etc etc, offer nice parts/upgrades! 😎

I'm in Arvada with a 1980 720 2WD parts truck! Come pick anything you want ie door hinges etc. Both doors are pretty rusty, but they are there! I'm mostly a 510 guy, so don't know WHAT parts interchange with your 1984................ PM me if interested! TJ