yenpit

Good customer here right now, SW pilot, so I asked! He just laughed, shook his head, said that poor guy is gonna lose his job! They have a "private radio frequency" that they use person to person, pilot to co pilot etc, if there is a glitch in the radio frequency, it can piggy back or jump to a wide open frequency! Opps!! 😣

This is all you ever get in the rebuild kits. I just pulled a 5speed out of my 1980 720 parts truck, looks identical externally to the last of the 280ZX 5speeds that we have rebuilt before..............I have not opened mine up yet. That said, I think all these parts are the same regardless. We use these kits in vintage race boxes, never had a part failure after rebuild, so quality seems just fine. Nissan still has many if not all, but would be stupid expensive. The only thing that these kits DO NOT HAVE are the upper shift shaft oring & lip seal, only available from Nissan. You need to remove the upper shift shaft from the tail housing, which is a biotch to do on the earlier 5speeds...........if your 5speed is the same as mine, you should have an oval plate with 2 bolts on the drivers side of the tail housing. This plate allows access to remove the biotch taper pin on the upper shift shaft, MUCH easier than the older 5speeds! Rebuilding is pretty straight forward, just be methodical & patient! PS every single USED reverse gear shows wear on the gear teeth, cuz dumbasses jamb in reverse while still rolling (no synchro) or without running thru a forward gear first, then to reverse. If no broken teeth, just re-use it!

This really happened at a workplace, after I had left! An older employee was in the bathroom a long time, others noticed he was missing, my old coworker had to climb up thru the ceiling, drop down & unlock the door. Yup, poor guy was a goner! 🥴

On the earlier dealer installed AC set ups, we use the original dealer installed underdash units, but everything else under the hood is simply NEW universal fit parts (all the dealer installed kits used universal parts under the hood anyway!), with custom made hoses to suit where YOU want them to pass thru the firewall. We use a NEW late model Sanden compressor (MUCH more efficient & lighter than the original huge York monstrosity's!), with relatively simple spacer adaptors to mount it to the original dealer installed bracket on the engine. Depending on the crank pulley, sometimes you need to modify the tensioner pulley bracket to line the belt up. We have done 240Z's & a 510 this way........same should apply to the 620!

Keep plugging away & reading/researching...............it gets easier & more fun!! 😎

We ended up with the yellow 510 that sold (to our customer) on BAT last year for pretty big bucks. Among the MANY other issues with that very expensive 510, it had a KA swap with a long tube header (unknown brand), which obviously did not fit the swap. One of the tubes was crushed/dented in at least 50% of the tube diameter, iirc at the steering box, ultimately in our view, destroying the whole point of having a header............FLOW of the exhaust gases out smoothly & efficiently!! 😣

Yup, "denting" a header tube for clearance is a VERY common thing to do when fitting a header that is not specifically made for a particular chassis vs engine swap! Any header can be cut, modified & re-welded by somebody that KNOWS what they are doing. Lack of experience can lead to destroying the header completely, or creating a monstrosity that flows no better than the original KA cast iron exhaust manifold. If bigbooper is dead set on running a header (as opposed to running the stock cast iron manifold IF that would even fit......??), my suggestion is to TRY to use the Megan Racing "shorty" header linked above............but again, it is NOT designed for the 510 chassis with our LHD steering box down there!

We had The Greaseman (can't remember before Howard Stern or after.....?? 🙄) as our big time radio DJ in MD DC VA when I was in high school.................he was nutz! He called multiple people having a movement together (not necessarily in the same room!) as having a "simultaneous constitutional"!! F**king hilarious! I think he eventually pushed his obnoxious limits & screwed up his career..............

..........this whole mess is one big movement..........😣

PM sent!

I'm glad you were able to get that done, but that sounded like pure & simple ignorance on the inspector's part. Not all people in higher positions know what they are doing. Hmmmmm, sounds alot like today..............🙄

So Cali did impose new laws/rules on older classic cars? Ugh. If Cali did something like that, I hope Gov' Polis isn't stupid enough to try it here in Colorado...........😒

That scumbag shooter is apparently from right here in good ol' Arvada Colorado (Boulder is 20-30min away)! My friend just called me cuz she had just heard he was from Arvada. She mentioned he was in the hospital. I responded with "Why is he still alive?". I just like living in my Datsun world..............😐

We just had a real scare here in Colorado! As of January 1st 2021, we heard that Colorado had adopted the stringent Cali CARB emissions standards. We were right in the middle of an LS3 swap in a Corvette. Our customer called freaking out that his car would NEVER pass that! We put everything on hold for 2 days, while we tried to get an answer from the State, which of course, is on skeleton crews. Bottom line, these new to Colorado CARB standards are only going to be applied to 2021 models & newer...............they will NOT be retroactive. I don't see how any State could possibly make such drastic changes & apply them to older cars, that very likely could not pass. Imagine how many people would be put out & could not afford to upgrade to a newer car?

My experience with ANY header for ANY car made, is that the headers are designed to fit the particular engine in a particular chassis............from Datsun to Camaro etc etc. That said, a KA header is designed to fit the S13/S14 chassis. I am not aware of anybody making a header that specifically fits the KA in a 510 chassis. Everybody's KA engine swap mounting bracket kit is different & places the engine in a different position fore & aft. We have a 510 with a KA24DE, where the engine mount brackets placed the engine so far back, that the back of the cylinder head actually rubs on the firewall! WE DID NOT BUILD THIS CAR! It does have some unknown brand header on it, which is mm's from touching the steering box! Maybe someone else here will chime in on a particular brand of header that WILL fit the KA in a 510 chassis. The biggest issue that we have with our LHD 510's, is that the steering box is simply in the way (not a problem on RHD 510's cuz everything is on passenger side!), so many KA headers will NOT fit. I'm not seeing an ISR header for the KA listed on their web page......?? Do you have a link or pics? We can take a look, but if 4-2-1 style, it sounds like a long tube header, which may pose a big issue fitting it to a 510 chassis.

I would agree that most if not all of the Datsun/Nissan big gland nuts are the same/similar, but if the car ever had Koni's or ?? aftermarket strut inserts, they often supplied their own gland nuts to fit the top of their inserts..........some do NOT fit the top of the cheaper replacement inserts! I have quite a few different styles of gland nuts in my Datsun box of such! I used MR2 front strut inserts in my 280ZX strut assemblies. The welds on the insert were kinda big, had to carefully grind them down until the insert just slipped down inside the strut tube! Wasn't much, but it stopped the insert from dropping in! I have found all of the info needed to retrofit a different strut insert in the past. I bet rockauto "info" on any given part # would show the diameter, length, compressed length & extended length......?? But that gets pretty technical, need to be able to understand all of that! I thought I read once that the 280ZX strut assemblies would fit a later HL510......?? Pretty sure a local guy installed the ZX struts, but that was a few years ago! I do know that the 68-73 510 upper camber plates do fit. As long as the camber angle of the ZX strut is the same as the HL510, they can work. My only concern there is that is would take some minor fab work ie cutting the spring perch off & installing the HL spring perches (??) (like you have shown datzenmike) or installing coilovers..........please no offense poorpersonwithadatsun, but if you struggle with rebuilding the original oil filled struts, you will likely struggle with fitting anything other than original parts 😐 Just not alot of info on modifying the HL510's!

Nice..........so they can design the "drop extension" to any length? The way I look at classic car seatbelts is they were old technology. I drove MG Midgets & a classic Mini when I was younger. People would always ask "They're so small..........what if yer in a bad accident??" My response was always with a smile & "Guess that's how I will go!" 😁 That said, they CAN be improved, but a 510's crash technology is also old technology. We don't drive them cuz of their high safety rating........we drive them cuz they are FUN!! 😎

I don't have any 510 Sedan fuel filler "cup assemblies", where the filler neck is. I do have a Z car "cup assembly" that I can cut out of the rear 1/4 panel, with the fuel door/lid & the upper metal fuel filler neck where the gas cap goes (I don't think I have the correct Z gas cap). I think all of the Z car rubber elbows etc are being reproduced.........?? The Z car makes a similar quick 90deg turn down (the 510 Sedan does NOT) like the Goon. We don't do custom body work like that here at work, so these are only ideas!

I think I have that cover plate on the floor......PM if interested! I had a Subbie Impreza that eventually started spitting fuel out of the filler neck during fill up. Turned out to be a broken wire going to a venting solenoid that opened when filling up the fuel. This allowed the air in the tank to escape, while the fuel flowed down the tube & filled the tank up. No solenoid, the air could only try to escape thru the main fill tube, which was flowing full of fuel! That caused a "belch", which caused the fuel to kick back & spit out the only way it could.......out the fuel filler neck on to my SHOES!!! 😣 Fixed the broken solenoid wire, all good! That said, our Datsun's don't have a fuel solenoid, only a "mechanical" means of venting the air OUT of the tank as the fuel is being poured in. If that vent is blocked or plugged up by a big dummy, the fuel will spit out just like my Subbie.

I have a 1974 620 cast iron exhaust manifold with the air injection rail & the EGR block & pipe intact. This EGR block bolts to the stock 1974 intake manifold (I likely still have the correct intake manifold too?). Both will bolt right up to the L20B, although the L16/L18 intake manifold might be a small port, whereas the L20B cylinder heads were big port. That way is fine, just not perfectly ideal for performance (you would NOT want to put an L20B big port intake on a small port head!). I might still have the L16/18 air injection pump BRACKET & I might have an air pump......?? PM me if interested in the parts! TJ Denver CO

The problem is if you poke a hole in the headliner to install at the factory mounting point, don't like it & want to lower it, now you have a hole in your headliner! The headliner & the B pillar vinyl covering should be simply wrapped over pinch welded metal edges & glued in that area, so you could carefully peel it back to access that factory mounting point, do a quick mock up, see if you like it. If not, re-wrap & re-glue, then look at peeling the vinyl off on the upper B pillar, weld in a captive nut LOWER re-wrap re-glue! The only area where you can't peel back the vinyl is around the front & rear glass, where it is tucked under the big rubber glass seal...............if the headliner was installed correctly! Hope that helps!

Please spend the money on a good quality lowering spring set! Cutting springs rarely has the good outcome that most want. Some people ONLY want stance/lowering, not concerned about ride quality! Ever seen the Civic's & Integra's driving down the road BOUNCING? Those are either cut springs or crap quality lowering springs or crap quality coilovers! My 2c 😐

Paolo has that many junkers??!! My biggest beef with the "aftermarket" wiring schematics ie Haynes, is I don't think they had the USA spec emission wiring crap in them, thus our cars have wiring that is NOT in the schematic, thus confusing to me! For electrical work, I want to see what I DO need & what I DON'T need without question! 🥴