yenpit

SEM Trim Black! Nice matte black, lays on nicely with proper prep! 😎 Think it's cheapest on Amazon...........

Those side plates are EASY to pull off & reseal! Careful to keep the shims on each correct side. Buy the main lip seal (stub axle), the BIG side plate oring & the SMALL stub axle bolt oring, all available from Nissan. I buy all of my OEM parts from Riley at Lynchburg Nissan............try his online store, but might be shut down temporarily OR email parts@lynchburgnissan.com. He is now overall manager at this large Nissan dealership, so sometimes takes some prodding to get our classic Datsun parts out of him...........unfortunately the late model Nissan parts are the dealerships gravy, NOT our old Datsun parts! You could potentially replace these seals with axles out but diff still bolted in place.................

They are correct..........that wire was installed in the fusebox at the factory, to make installing the dealer installed/aftermarket AC kits easier! Funny, I just figured this out a month ago, while selling a USED fusebox! Wonder if the earlier 1969 fusebox had this wire, cuz the dealer installed AC was rare in the 69's............

Donde en la casa? Mi llamo es Timiteo! That's all I got.......if it is even correct after 30++ years......... 😂 🥴

Looks like datzenmike has this one handled................!! 😁

Wow, great info! I have two different long rods, different lengths, but most importantly different square ends.............one noticeably bigger square! I noticed this a few months ago digging thru my parts, but never researched why the difference...........maybe truck vs 510 Wagon? I assume these Titan parts are compatible with the 521?

Pretty much every other Datsun/Nissan truck accelerator cable is LONGER, cuz most later engines had the carb/FI over on the passenger side, thus requiring a much longer cable. The 1980 ONLY 720 (81-newer was NAPZ with carb on passenger side) had an L20B, pretty sure the cable is similar, but I think that one is NLA/NLS. Does your existing cable have the steel sleeve to eradicate a kink?

FYI if this is a 240Z, it will have the 3.36 rear diff................unless the AUTO had a 3.54.......?? I do know that the 3.54 came in the 280Z 😁

We sub out most of our glass installs, cuz they can be a real pain in the rear AND risk of breakage! I only recently learned that the Coupe stainless trim is completely different than the Sedan..........looks great! 😎

I sent a PM from your WTB ad! Hmmmmm, only the outer trim is flipped upside down? Have you looked at the white plastic housing? ALL of the tail lamp parts are "handed" right & left. I bet if one part is incorrect, the whole tail lamp is flipped...........?? Yes, all 68-80 4cyl L series valve cover gaskets are the same. All 68-80 valve covers interchange, so if you have a "NISSAN OHC" valce cover on it now, you can find an earlier "DATSUN" valve cover & simply swap them! TJ

USe a punch in the center of each spot weld, to give that "pin" a perfect place to seat. Use any WD40 or other lube generously. You can "rock" the bit/cutter slightly as you drill in to dig in, but ALWAYS hold on firmly to keep it "centered". As you drill in, you will see the blade cutting in to the metal..........watch the pattern, so that you drill in as EVENLY as possible (that's where the slight "rocking" of the bit/cutter comes in to play!). You will use this bit/cutter if doing the front frame rail sides, but you will use a cutoff wheel more for that particular job, as most of the spot welds are on the lower pinch welded horizontal flange. Good luck!

...............pretty sure that is the 620 Deluxe steering wheel, with the 3 spokes. The standard steering wheel is a horizontal two spoke 😎

........as datzenmike said, you do NOT have to cut the door open to replace a window regulator! Once detached from the glass (I think you will lift the glass up & out of the door), then be patient & work the regulator out thru one of the bigger holes in the inner door shell & back in the exact same way........... 🙂

I have a 1974 cluster available. PM sent! TJ

1) correct, delete & cut wires back & tape. That big 4 wire relay was located on the drivers side rad core support, can't remember what for, but of no use! 2) correct, 510 had no wires for this 3) correct, cut wires back & tape.............emission junk 4) Signex control box & wiring can be removed, cut wires back & tape.........emission junk 5) the 510 horn relay is located on the rear facing side of the passenger strut tower, closest to the fender. The other relay right next to it is the headlight relay. That picture with a small square relay circled in red is not of a 510, so not applicable............it is not the 510 horn relay You should not need to utilize the 2nd (dual) point set, as datzenmike says. The 68-69 510 dizzy was a single point, but kinda hard to find. Best option is to find a later matchbox dizzy ie 1980 720 pick up (I have an exact application cuz we just identified a dizzy in a 620 today, as a 1980 720, by the part # stamped on the dizzy!)...........there ARE other Datsun's that used the matchbox dizzy. Was this car an automatic with a recent manual swap, or has it run before WITH working reverse lamps? If it WAS an auto, there are two quick wiring tricks needed to run the car & hook up reverse lamps.

We have been using a Wilson brand, rebuilt, factory Nissan gear reduction starter on all of our vintage race 240Z's. We tried other cheaper rebuilt 280ZX units, had two literally fall apart under the racing conditions, so we will only use the Wilson brand rebuilt...........available from NAPA, but most importantly listed under a commercial application ie a forklift or ?? Our guy at NAPA knows what we want, but I can get the actual Wilson part # if anybody needs it!

Have a safe road trip!! 😎

Are you flying in to DIA? Are you driving the redeye up to Aspen or staying in Denver overnight? If staying in Denver, you will drive across 70 west, right past our shop......you should stop in.....you would get a kick out of a visit (I've seen your builds online....killer!). I get in around 10am if you have the time. PM sent!! Have another DAtsun buddy & family up at Copper Mountain now..............I think Summit County is red, so plan meals ahead, cuz I hate to say........you might not be able to eat in restaurants! YES, plenty to do otherwise!! 😎 TJ Ignite Performance www.igniteperformanceusa.com

I lived in Norwalk CT in 1989, worked for Nisonger Corp selling new Jaguar MG Triumph AH car parts! What area was she from? Unfortunately, at least here in Colorado, the state has requested no large Thanksgiving celebrations (except within an existing household), in more attempts to curb the spread of COVID, which is currently being described as the "second wave" of spreading for this crazy ass year 2020. We will simply cook extra this year, for our 88 year old neighbor 🥴

Here in Jefferson County (Denver) Colorado, we JUST went back on no restaurant dining again......take out only! I am sick & tired of this............ 🤔

So do what datzenmike says..............install the cam towers, install the cam ONLY (no rockers etc) with lube/oil & torque down the cam towers. The cam MUST rotate easily in the cam towers. If it does not rotate easily, you need to figure out why............likely the replaced tower is machined differently from new. You can try to modify the replaced cam tower OR find another one (each tower only fits in one spot!), try again, find another one if it doesn't work etc etc. Keep in mind that the 6cyl Z cars had the same forward towers, so you can match up & try one of those too, if easier to find. I'm lucky......I have a box full of USED cam towers for this reason! Also, the L20B cam is simply the exact same cam spec as the JDM SSS L16 cam, so it is a great cam to install in an L16 or L18!

I just soaked a couple of wiper linkage set ups for 2 weeks in a BIG drum of parts cleaner solution. I think ONE loosened up. They SUCK, once seized up..........very difficult to get apart! For those parting out any 2dr 4dr or Wagon, the 69-73's are all the same (68 of course is 68 only!), pull every linkage set up out to save. ALWAYS use propane/MAP heat on the tiny 8mm nuts................it helps tremendously! The only thing around it to possibly burn, is the thin paper "gasket" between the wheelbox & the underside of the cowl mounting point......there are no wires or anything else to burn under there, unless there is a mouse nest etc under the cowl 😆

Correct, they are splined up at the head. The Z cars of the same era have small machine screws that screw right into the aluminum triangular base. I think there is enough room up under the cowl, to use a bolt & nut....just more effort to install. OR drill out & tap threads like the Z car, use a larger screw? I'm gonna try to press out the studs (be careful.....VERY delicate brittle aluminum wheelbox.....they WILL break!), drill out & try to use a bolt & nut.............. I probably have 10++ of the 510 wheelboxes, with broken studs. I JUST sold my last good wiper linkage set, so now I will need to repair my broken studs too! Don't forget to disassemble the wheelboxes, pull the shaft out, clean, re-grease & re-assemble..........the old grease congeals, collects dirt/grime & the shafts get sticky OR seize up altogether! This is one of the reasons why the wiper motors burn out............sticky shafts, which create too much resistance, thus fry the motor! Even with a Honda/Acura motor upgrade, you must deal with the wheelboxes!

It's a common area to rust, cuz sandwiched metal with no sealer etc on the inside. Once you patch it up, figure out a way to soak the inner cavity with paint or a rust inhibitor! KlassicFab JDM (kfvintagejdm.com) is currently releasing more & more patch panels for the 510's. His website is NOT current, but there is stuff listed. He usually advertises on the various Facebook Datsun pages. He hasn't really considered this particular panel, however he will now. For production, he 3D scans, creates the tooling & STAMPS his panels (go to KlassicFab.......not JDM......to see all of his air cooled VW panels!). Pre-production, he has HAND FORMED a number of Z car panels for us & they are really nicely done. Best example was the 70-78 Z lower front fender patch.............the current Tabco produced panel, sold by all of the Z specialists, is horrible, so he had his guys hand form two pairs for us & they were MILES better than the Tabco crap! He is currently creating the tooling on these, so will have available soon. I believe he has already released the 510 lower front fender panels. Bottom line, he said he could hand make some of these 510 frame rail panels for you if you would like! Give Gerson a call at 561-747-4800 or send him an email sales@klassicfab.com! TJ Denver CO