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obrut

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About obrut

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lemont IL
  • Cars
    1972 510, 1996 spec miata, 1994 V8 miata
  • Interests
    cars and racing

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786 profile views
  1. Any info or link to the engine build? I would like to try a L16 drawthrough turbo with a single SU at some point
  2. obrut

    My Intro

    What club does he race with?
  3. obrut

    My Intro

    It is an open chamber head, I had a post going in the engine forum about it. The other engine I have is going to be a l20b but I would like to build it into a lz2.3 with my u60 head and the L18sss carbs and intake I have. I'll buy a new cam for this engine when I get everything finalized. I would also like to build a draw through turbo L16. I already have a bunch of stuff to build this laying around. This would just be for fun, just to try it.
  4. obrut

    My Intro

    Zero unfortunately, collected a few more parts, getting ready to assemble one of the engines I have for it. L16 with flat top pistons, l18 cam and a a87 head that I'm going to mill down and port match to a cannon intake with dcoe 40s. I have all the parts I just need to do the head and assemble. I also want to clean and strip the bottom of the car and paint it and the engine bay before installing the engine. I finished the other project I was working on a few months ago, 5.0L and t5 into a 94 miata. So now my time and some money will go to my 510.
  5. obrut

    L16 build, head advice

    I was going to throw on some DCOE 40s and cannon manifold that I already have.... no rising sun hood though
  6. obrut

    L16 build, head advice

    I checked the cam last night and I did not see A B or C on the back of it. I think I'm going to use the A87 head on the L16 and put it together. I already have all the pistons, ARP bolts and gasket kit and now its only going to cost me the price of reconditioning the rods. I'm not really shooting for a HP number I was just using the how to book as a reference or ball park. The book says they used a stock L16 not a SSS and then added the SSS cam and flat top pistons. I assume they are still using the stock head but maybe I read it wrong. Regardless I'll have an engine that runs and I can at least drive my 510, thanks guys.
  7. obrut

    L16 build, head advice

    I was referring to the stock l16 they performance tuned on the dyno. I think they changed to flat top pistons and a SSS cam but stilled used the stock intake and carb. I think the number was 105.2 hp before he had to stop. I'm not expecting a lot and it is more to have something so I can drive for now and just for fun. I'll check the cam tonight to see which one I have, thanks
  8. obrut

    L16 build, head advice

    I used 1mm off as 3cc removed, the cam does have the nodules in the middle on both sides. I call it a L18 cam because the A87 and cam came off a L18.
  9. obrut

    L16 build, head advice

    Thanks for the replies, the L18 cam I have measures out to 0.412" lift so its probably the same is a L20B. I must be doing the calculations wrong when I check compression. I get 9.6 on the L16 flat tops and 210 head and 8.5 on the L16, flat tops with A87. Looks like I'm off by .3 on both, I'll go back and check again. I'll have to pull the A87 apart and check the seats and guides. This head already has the L18 cam in it that I want to use and has the larger exhaust valves.
  10. I picked up a complete L16 last year that "ran a few years ago and was rebuilt". I opened it up and checked all the rods and mains, pulled the head and checked the cylinders and everything looks great. The bearings look new and if it had a carb it probably would have fired right up. I bought this so I would have something to put in my car while I gather all the parts I want for a L20B that I have that needs a full rebuild. While reading the how to book I was impressed with the BRE L16 engine build in the beginning of the book and though I could do something similar. I measured the bores and they all measure within spec. I put a wanted add on the forum and bought a set of L24 flat top pistons. I bought a set or ARP rod bolts and plan to have the rods reconditioned and balance the pistons and rods. Then hone the cylinders, put new rings on the pistons and put them in the L16. I have a set of DCOE 40s and cannon intake, new hooker header (yes I've read all the opinions on this) and L18 cam that I'm going to use on the L16. So I'm trying to decide which head to use. I have a stock 210 that came on the engine that is ready to go with new seats and guides. This head has been milled and measures 4.20, so this will help raise the compression. I also planned to open the intake ports up to match the cannon intake and un-shroud the valves and eyebrow the block. I also have an open chamber A87 that has the 35mm exhaust valves and has never been milled. Using this head with the open chamber will reduce the compression but will have better flow over the stock 210 head. My 510 is not a daily driver, I will be running 93 octane all the time, I'm not worried about mileage - at all and I'm a little familiar with side draft webers and the time and patience to tune them. My question is, port and un-shroud the 210 head and use the L18 cam and I should have about 9.3 compression ratio give or take depending on how much I eyebrow and un-shroud or gasket match clean up A87 head and use the L18 cam and have about 8.5 compression ratio but potentially better flow and larger valves I've searched and read and I know the L20B is the better engine to start with. This is what I have and these are the parts I already have and that's what I'm trying to use, thanks for the help.
  11. obrut

    Cam identification

    So I measured the cam lobe and its 1.465" and the base circle is 1.055 so that's .410" lift. Is that the lift or is it .410" x 1.5 for the rocker arms and then its .615" lift? I thinks its .615 because my L18 cam is 1.585 - 1.300 = .285 x 1.5 = .427 My l16 cam measures 1.575 - 1.300 = .275 x 1.5 = .412 which seem to line up with the specs in the books.
  12. obrut

    Early Weber DCOE 40s

    I bought the rebuild kits and a few other parts from the ebay link. Unfortunately my note to the seller to include 175 needle valve didn't make it to him some how and I ended up with 150. Is that going to be too small? How do I know what size I should run?
  13. obrut

    Early Weber DCOE 40s

    Thanks for the feedback, these supposedly came off a 510, here are the jets, chokes etc that are in them. Choke 32 Venturi 35 Air 170 Emulsion F15 Main jet 125 Idle 45 F9 Pump jet 55 bleed back 50 - this is the one at the bottom of the bowl Both carbs numbers are TIPO 40DCOE18J No F.E.T. 7J They came bolted to a L series cannon intake with soft mounts.
  14. I have a pair of DCOE 40s that I am cleaning and rebuilding. I think I have early webers, I have brass floats and the spindle shafts have a small piece of leather with a spring and plug to seal them. I'm looking at ordering these https://www.ebay.com/itm/WEBER-40-45-48-DCOE-CARBURETTOR-SERVICE-KIT-WITH-ADDED-SCREWS/263406094171?hash=item3d543a075b:g:HTkAAMXQaBRRi-yw:rk:5:pf:0 I have a 175 needle valve size, will that work for a mild L20B build? If not I can order a different size when I order the kit. Anything else I should look out for when ordering gasket kits?
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