yenpit

It is actually very simple, unlike the 510 620 etc that has steel rod bows. The Z is a piece of 1/4 foam glued to the roof & vinyl glued to the foam. Depending on where you buy vinyl, you might be able to buy vinyl with foam already glued to it. Use aerosol trim adhesive & take time to place it. Cut bigger, spray glue everywhere you need it, put the center up first taking care not to wrinkle it, then trim the edges leaving enough to tuck up behind all four of the roof rails. If you also need to do the roof rails, I have never done those, might require a professional hand......?? Any good upholstery shop can handle the complete job!

Yes, the British call the shift boot a "gaitor"!

I would guess that OR is a hit or miss for bad rust! Check to see if the main cable from the handle to the "split point" (where the rear cables split off to each wheel) is functioning as it should, then continue back, checking the other parts. If you find you need anything, I have a very clean Colorado parts truck.....just let me know! TJ Denver CO

Where are you located & where did the 620 come from? If in the "rust belt" (I was in Michigan 22 years!), then much of the e/brake parts might be completely un-usable, cuz of rust issues. If not, then work with what you have............disassemble, clean, grease up & hope for the best! E/brake cables appear to still be available from rockauto.com, but the other "hard parts" ie handle, linkage etc will likely be sourced as USED parts!

I just took a look at my Wagon REAR doors......it was the inner door handle that moved. All of the indentations for mounting are there & the two captive nuts. Funny thing is, the 4dr Sedan rear doors I have, have the same indentations & captive nuts, which to me VERIFIES that the rear lower door shells are the same Sedan vs Wagon, just the upper glass frames differed!

The inner door handles on the REAR doors did move for the Wagon (the Sedan rear inner handles are all located the same), but the latches are the same (simply moved) & all of the door shells have the two different places stamped in the shell. As far as I know, you can use any WAGON rear door on any Wagon, just need the inner latch in the correct position to match your door panel/card.

The intake/exhaust manifold gaskets are different, as the stock L16 has SMALL intake ports, where the L20B has LARGE intake ports & the L16 has square exhaust ports , the L20B has round. What cylinder head casting # do you have OR measure the ports.............. Maybe datzenmike can clarify that you CAN use the big port/round port gasket with a stock small/square port L16, but I wouldn't do it 😐

I used a NEW Hyundai Scoupe aluminum rad in a 510 CA18DET swap. Inlet outlet worked well, dimensions worked well, just had to fab up some quick brackets with rubber isolators. PS if anybody interested, I have a VERY straight, original paint, minimal rust, WITH title, 74 620 standard cab rolling shell, available here in Denver. The front clip is PERFECT, never been hit. All four floor pan body mounts are gone (forward rad core support mounting points look good), but KlassicFab JDM will be making those "cups" as a patch panel for rust repair pretty soon. The drivers front floor area will need a SMALL patch, but the rest is very dry Colorado solid! The bed is also decent, with minor rust thru along the passenger bed seam.............drivers side is pretty nice. Again, original paint! I bought this truck sight unseen as a parts truck, already partially stripped out............was surprised to find how solid it was!

Funny, I was (still am I suppose) involved in the British shitbox industry since the mid 80's, worked in various shops & later wholesale parts, which is where I got me feet wet in modifying, improving, interchanging of parts, blah blah blah where needed...............seatbelts was one of those areas, just carried it over to Datsun stuff last 20+ years! That plate, along with the captive nut, is necessary to strengthen the anchoring of a seatbelt, ultimately in case of an accident. The captive nut, simply welded to the OEM sheetmetal will hold the seatbelt in place, but it's the potential massive amount of force of a bad accident where that really can come into play, pulling only a welded captive nut out of the sheetmetal, defeating the purpose.................safety first!, as the British always say! The only other thing I would suggest, is to "countersink" the captive nut, otherwise it pushes the retractor unit out away from the inner rocker, creating more of a potential issue with the unit being in the way of sliding the seat all the way back. The last time we modified a seatbelt mounting point, we used a "flanged nut" & dropped it in the hole backwards, so the flange stopped the nut from falling thru the hole, and welded it that way. Me............I'm of shorter stature, so I rarely have my seats all the way back! 🤣

We were looking at the doors the other day. The lower door shells are the same, the upper window frames are where the difference is. I was wondering if you could cut the weld & spotwelds on the REAR vertical frame to the shell (maybe leave the front welds intact), push the taller Wagon frame DOWN into the door shell by that margin (1/4in??) & re-weld? If the actual measured angle at that upper rear corner is the same, it might work. If different, I can see it NOT working.............?? Hmmmmmmm 🙄

On your 1971 510, which originally had 3pt "rigid" belts, I would use the same factory mounting point (captive nut) on the rear of the inner rocker panel, as shown in the pics........although the pics also show a simple lap belt bolted in. In 1972-1973 510's, the retractor unit was mounted down there, on the same captive nut. The problem we had with Honda seats installed, was that the aftermarket retractor unit was in the way when pushing the seat all the way back.....my buddy is tall. The first time he slammed the seat back, he broke the black plastic case of the brand NEW retractor unit! It continues to function just fine, but to me it looks like crap! If you weld, you could potentially weld a new captive nut further back on the inner rocker, to relocate the retractor unit, giving more room for an aftermarket seat to slide back without interference. Hope that helps!

FYI the 240Z did NOT have a charcoal canister system. We have a 1976 280Z, it DOES have a canister, so maybe the 1975 does too......?? All of the 1979-19783 280ZX's will also have a canister. Using a Datsun/Nissan canister might simplify retrofitting on an earlier Datsun, cuz you will likely study the 280Z shop manual, which will have familiar wording, descriptions etc. I would expect that you can find these parts USED in SoCal 😁

Ha yer right! Well done greaser2!! 😎

Was a 720 bench, but too wide at the top corners to push all the way back to the rear wall of the cab (top corners interfered with the B pillar where the welt trim is). Cut 3in's out of top CENTER, pie cut sides to "draw in" together in the middle, welded back up. We have a nice yellow 510 in our shop now, the owner wants to re-do the interior, saw my seats, went to upholstery shop, found a subtle black & yellow tartan/plaid, that he will do his seat inserts with (not gonna do door panels). I like my red stitching, don't think yellow stitching would work, but it's HIS car! 😆 dp those mats look killer cool! Full custom I suppose......?

Water under the bridge dp! 👍 I've never dealt with that seller, but I have dealt with MANY "different" people over the years! When I was in wholesale British parts back in the 90's, I was given an old customer list to start with, many of which were not buying from the company I went to work for. The other more "seasoned" sales people laughed a little, "wished me luck" with some of them. My boss even laughed & said "......you'll NEVER get anything out of so & so......", so I worked even harder at getting them to buy from me! Best example was "John" in Ohio............he was a real piece of work. He bitched & moaned, complained & became grossly agitated when something didn't go his way with a part. One day, probably a year or so in to my working there, he called screaming & cussing. I listened for about 20sec, decided he was being abusive, held the phone away from my ear, said "John, I'm gonna hang up. Take a minute to cool down, call me back & we will figure it out". He immediately called back, screaming even louder. I repeated myself & hung up. He called back again, same scenario. The fourth time, he said in a much calmer demeanor, "OK TJ, look, I have a BIG problem & YOU need to do something about it". "No worries John, tell me what's up!". Turns out after talking for a minute, HE ordered the wrong part! Even tho' it was his fault, he explained the situation regarding his customer, sucked for him, but I overnighted the correct part to him, for the cost of standard shipping. Ever since that "episode", he must have gained a level of respect for me, perhaps cuz I stood up to him (rumor in the biz was he was the same mean arrogant guy as ever) & he became a GREAT customer & a friend. I would see them at car shows & would sit at their "booth" & chat with those looking at their products, while they took a quick walk around the car show! Those were good days! 😎 PS dp, I saw your interior last year here on the forum & did a similar "tartan/plaid" design on my 521 seat & door panels! Can't wait to install!

No, I simply think it was disrespectful. And now you call me a dickhead? You don't even know me, brudda. Why can't we all just get along! Many people are "different", as mainer311 says......just gotta figure out how to handle them 😎. If you can't figure out how to handle them, move on, buy somewhere else. I'm good.....hopefully you will be too! 😉

........"fuck that guy" for selling the EXACT same, correct three rivet heavy duty pressure plate (kit) for $25 more than what you bought? Yikes, oh the horror!! 😣 🙄 I have never heard of that particular Exedy kit, but the listing DOES make it clear that it is a heavy duty pressure plate.........I have used quite a few Exedy clutch kits with no complaints! Good to know! 😎

Wow, that is a great deal at $174! BendOr521 you can visually identify a heavy duty Roadster pressure plate by the three rivets per "ear"......you can just see them in his pics, so that is a great choice! I didn't mention, cuz I thought they were long gone NLS NLA!

L16T? Turbo? The L16 will have a 5 bolt flywheel, I think it is a 200mm clutch. The Maxima will have a 6 bolt flywheel, will likely have a 225mm clutch........I don't think the larger 225mm clutch will fit the 200mm flywheel. Are you looking for a performance clutch for the turbo power? If so, you will likely need to stick with an L16 200mm clutch, but find one with a higher "clamping force" pressure plate.......maybe a Centerforce......?? I would suggest a full face disc with springs for street use, like the factory, but with a performance friction material. I'm sure others will chime in!

As said above, the front doors WILL bolt up either way, but the steel glass FRAME is a slightly different height...........the Goon is a little taller at that upper rear corner, cuz the roof line is basically flat, where the Sedan roof line kinda slopes down. Look at rosso's pic of the Sedan........see how the upper rear corner of the front door frame lines up with the upper FRONT corner of the rear door? You would loose that detail, some will notice, some will not. The rear doors are completely different from the stainless waist trim up. You can easily see the difference in the small window glass between the rounded Sedan vs squared Goon! FYI the FRONT window regulators are ALL the same..........2dr 4dr & Goon.

I use Riley at Lynchburg Nissan in VA 800-443-2117 or parts@lynchburgnissan.com, for all of my OEM parts. Most early Datsun parts are discontinued, but pretty sure the dizzy gasket & oring are still available from Nissan..............he will know the part #'s! Tell him TJ sent ya! 😁

I just put up more pallet racking in my shop space! Best thing EVER.........getting stuff up off the floor, on to shelves! I set the pallet rack up with the first shelf about 6ft up (12ft high ceilings), set up an old futon & book shelves, so have a small man cave spot to sit or NAP!! Your 510 & garage look great! 😎

Well, I was gonna razz you to buy a new accelerator cable before you do anything else, but looks like the 620 cable is NLA! I wonder if the LATE 1979 cable would work, as listed on RockAuto OR the EARLY 1980 720 with the L20B? I can see that the 720 (oval plate with two screws/bolts) mounts to the firewall differently than the 620 (thumb screw like a speedo cable), but we use the 720 style of cable mounting when we do a CA/SR/KA swap in a 510, so I know it can be done. The 1981-on 720 is a NAPZ engine, so the cable is waaaaaaay longer to reach over to the passenger side where the carb is. Hainz said it best..........modify a stock Hitachi bellcrank to fit the Weber or just buy the NEW Weber bellcrank. If you need a stock Hitachi bellcrank, I have some, but cost & shipping likely equates to just buying a NEW one from Weber!