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East LA Mike

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  • Location
    Burbank,California
  • Cars
    1970 Datsun 240Z
  • Interests
    Vintage cars

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  1. Any recommendations on a individual or shop in the area of Burbank Calif or SoCal that’s real familiar with replacing the headliner of a 240Z? Thanks!
  2. Problem solved for now. Jerry rigged a spring to the linkage by the firewall and revs now drop like they should. After all that oiling and messing around I guess the throttle linkage had a slight hang up. Thanks everybody for your help, this old guy that’s losing his patience is grateful, Mike
  3. Yes, had a head gasket leak. Turned out the original head was cracked. A shop I used that specialized in Z’s sent the head out and they were able to weld it. Picked up the car and ran perfectly with no overheating issues since but since then this rev hang up problem. Took it back to the shop after 1000 miles to re-torque the head and explained to them the problem and was told the cars 50 years old and no telling what it could be. They disconnected the hose and plugged the control valve and basically said if that doesn’t work they’ve got no idea why the revs are hanging. So I’m doing my own research and going thru a process of elimination. This week I’ll add a spring to the linkage, check the vacuum hose at the brake booster and then the timing.
  4. Interesting!! I have a Jag as well. I’ll try that spring on the linkage, wouldn’t that be something if that solved the problem. Thanks!
  5. I’ve oiled the rod that goes into the bottom of the servo several times already. Thanks!!
  6. Yes it does have the vacuum control valve shown on the diagram as 1,2 and 3. Haven’t touched it because I’ve found no info on servicing it or adjustments. The car runs so strong so I haven’t adjusted the timing. The car starts up perfectly and shuts off perfectly with no run on or pinging. Someone suggested to unplug the hose and cap the control valve, which I tried but no change. Anybody have any info on adjusting the control valve before I check the timing. Hate to create a new problem being that it runs so strong other than taking my time when shifting up thru the gears.
  7. Carbs oiled and tight. I’ll check the vacuum hose to the brake booster. As I mentioned, I have to hold the clutch in a second longer to shift into the next gear to allow the revs to drop. This is all under normal driving and not pedal to the metal.
  8. Yes, the original SU’s are still on the engine. My car is one of the 37 that was restored by the factory in 1996. Other than the spark plug wires and coil it’s original.
  9. Thanks Wayno but there’s no sticky linkage, it’s well oiled and never had a problem with it not returning to the closed position. Initially I thought the choke wasn’t closing but the choke lever and the choke linkage also returns to the closed position. The carbs were taken apart and cleaned too so I’m bummed on what’s the problem.
  10. My car has the original engine and it runs beautifully except when accelerating thru the gears the revs hang up for a second and I have to delay releasing the clutch. When the cars in neutral and I rev the engine the revs drop like they should. Only while driving do I have this aggravation. Any advice would be helpful to this nagging problem.
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