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Shortmorris

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About Shortmorris

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Wilsonville, OR
  • Cars
    2010 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner, 1979 Datsun 620
  • Interests
    Mountain biking, snowboarding, motorcycles and building stuff.

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  1. Well I technically still need to get one of those too. I've seen about there different types so far, is there a particular one that is better and doesn't have to be modified to work with the stock cable or can be used with a cable that doesn't have an end on it? https://www.weberperformance.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=836 https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99007.551.htm https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=181
  2. I finally got ahold of them and they sent it a replacement kit. I was looking through the different parts before sending the 38 kit back and noticed the part number for the accelerator pump diaphragm were the same but there were two different version. Would there be any reason to keep one over the other?
  3. I ordered a rebuild kit for the 32/36 DGV. I was sent a 38/38 DGEV rebuild kit... The part numbers are different but are they still interchangable?
  4. Reviving an old thread, but I was curios if 720 seats, or at least brackets made for the 720, will bolt straight into the 620? I found a company that makes race seat brackets but they don't make one for the 620. https://www.plantedtechnology.com/application-guide Other wise I think the PO has the Integra seats but the back bolt locations aren't bolted down. Does anyone have a picture as to what is needed to attach that?
  5. I have been doing some research on rebuilding my 32/36 and found that those 40 mm and 50 mm were for an older model of float and the changed it to the 18 mm and 23 mm for the neoprene floats. That last documentation says 18 mm and 2 mm of travel, is that 2 mm measured at the carb power valve assembly? Does that 5 mm travel measured on the float translate to that 2 mm of travel closer to the pivot point of the float?
  6. What center console is that? Does it go all the way back to the rear wall or is there some space still?
  7. I'm wondering if this could be the issue. I wasn't sure how to tell if there is a leak somewhere without disassembly and replacing gaskets. I read somewhere that if you spray starter fluid around the mounting surfaces, if there is a leak it should change the idle? Not sure if I understood that correctly.
  8. Worse as in higher idle speed? Or slower like a tractor? The top is the primary, it's a little wet looking because it was sitting for a bit and I had to spray some starter fluid in it to get it running again. The choke doesn't seem to be working as it is always open as in the pictures. The carb itself is labeled as DGAV (water operated) but it has an electronic choke on it, PO must have modified it and the wire send to be connected to a 12 V source and that is it.
  9. The throttle cable is pretty loss and the lever is completely forward so I don't think the throttle is engaged. I looked into the opening at the throttle plate and the primary is titled a little at neutral setting and the secondary looks slightly open but it's pretty hard to tell for sure. The idle lever adjustment is completely off the linkage. Is there somewhere else to adjust the primary and secondary throttle plates? When they are closed should they be completely level/horizontal?
  10. So I haven't changed anything on the carb yet but it started idling at a high rpm. Without taking the carb off or apart it appears everything is still operating properly, the choke is open all the time though. The idle speed screw is not touching the lever, and I tried turning in the idle mixture screw (less fuel?) And it continues to idle high. Is there anything else I should check before pulling things apart? Not sure if it matters but a cap that was on the valve cover PCV connection f
  11. So I haven't changed anything on the carb yet but it started idling at a high rpm. Without taking the carb of or apart it appears everything is still operating properly, the choke is open all the time though. The idle speed screw is not touching the lever, and I tried turning in the idle mixture screw (less fuel?) And it continues to idle high. Is there anything else I should check before pulling things apart? Not sure if it matters but a cap that was on the valve cover PCV connection feel apart right around the time I noticed, but putting my finger over it doesn't seem
  12. I think I found the part/parts that I am looking for but is it a Weber thing or an original Hitachi carb thing? The part I am talking about is the 1/4 circle the end of the cable attaches to and any parts that attach it to the carb.
  13. Like you can't see the picture? I am new to this forum host and it was a bit of a pain to post a picture. It shows up for me when I open the thread...
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