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    Southern California
  • Cars
    1971 Datsun 510

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  1. My black wire coming off the matchbox on the top horizontal lug is ground to a bolt on the radiator. could that be the issue possibly?
  2. Can you suggest what years I should look for a GM HEI module? A new OEM matchbox is quite pricey and almost seems at $150 for the part maybe a new set up might be a better idea? Question on the matchbox. Does the negative wire from the matchbox go to ground or to the coil?
  3. Here is the one I am using: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/import-direct-ignition/import-direct-4-terminal-ignition-control-module/odi1/140107/v/a/8235/automotive-truck-1979-nissan-620-pickup?q=Ignition+module&pos=0
  4. I replaced the matchbox as one of the tabs broke. What it’s doing now is the car is missing/has almost no power. Prior to the matchbox breaking it ran great.
  5. many links or more info about the alternate setups? how would an msd box work with an L20?
  6. how would I know if it has a lug, or how else would it be ground?
  7. I currently have an L20b with a matchbox distributor, and after replacing the matchbox noticed it starts to miss when revving and has no power. There is a spark coming out of the base of the distributor at times. It is also fouling plugs very quickly. Any suggestions on how I can troubleshoot this? If I need a new distributor are there alternatives to a matchbox style as those seem pretty expensive and hard to find
  8. What about this one? https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/import-direct-ignition/import-direct-4-terminal-ignition-control-module/odi1/140107/v/a/8235/automotive-truck-1979-nissan-620-pickup?q=Ignition+module&pos=0
  9. They’re quite pricey. $120 there. $160 on eBay. what’s the GM substitute?
  10. Finally got to the bottom of the issue. One of the connectors on the ignition module was reversed, causing the short. When fixing it was discovered the ignition module male connector was broken so a new matchbox ignition module and it should be back running. Any particular ignition module better than another? Are the ones sold at rock auto for example ok?
  11. It’s through a relay. I’m using a SPAL 185 fan wiring kit. The car previously had electric pusher fans that didn’t cut it and they were powered at the alternator. I did some trouble shooting on it, and it appears that one of wires from the starter and alternator to the fusible link may be the culprit. Do you know what the fusible link protects? Or what is sending it energy when the key goes on?
  12. I am having an issue with my wiring after installing dual electric fans. I first put the power to the alternator where the previous electric fans were and when I put the ignition on it burned the fusible link. To troubleshoot, I ran the power to the battery for the fans, turned on the ignition and it burned another fusible link. I then disconnected the power and ignition connections for the fans, and the fusible link started to smoke again but I was able to save it this time. The fans, if you remove the fusible link and just run them by grounding them, work well. The wire from the starter to the fusebox also seems to smoke. Any ideas how where to go to get the wiring right?
  13. Is there a particular connector you can recommend? I believe I need a 16 gauge fusible link for the black wire for the alternator but replacing the factory connectors will be almost impossible so looking to just change them out to get it back on the road
  14. where can I see the pics at?
  15. Did they bolt into the factory mounting points?
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