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Speedymaru

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About Speedymaru

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/07/2001

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eugene, Oregon
  • Cars
    1978 Datsun 620

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  1. Yes, it pulls all the time when driving. Thanks for the info! I’m going to start digging into it.
  2. Thanks for all the info! Would you say that a chain tire shop (les Schwab, Firestone) could do the alignment, or should I look for something better? How do I tell if the oil bath dampers are still on? And I believe the rear shocks are also blown. Do you have any suggestions on where to buy suspension components?
  3. Hello, I’ve owned 3 620s, and recently finally got my hands on a 280z. It’s a 1978, and has virtually no rust (PNW car). Got the car home, put in a fresh battery and it fired right up. I paid 5500. I am definitely going to overhaul the brakes, and I’m wondering if there’s any common knowledge I should be aware of. Is replacing with stock components a good idea, or should I upgrade? I’m trying to keep my costs to a minimum. As the title says, the cars pulls decently hard to the left. I’m not going to mess with anything until after doing the brakes, as there’s a good chance that’s what’s causing the pulling. Another thing I noticed on my first test drive was that the engine seems to hesitate a bit at lower RPMs. Once you get above 2.5k, it seems to open up and you can feel a lot more power. I plan to test/replace the injectors, but is there anything else I should look at? I’m pretty inexperienced when it comes to fuel injection. Lastly, the shocks are blown. Obviously running coilovers would be ideal, but I can’t afford them at the moment. The car came with 2 brand new KYB shocks, should I just replace those? I wouldn’t mind lowering the car a few inches, but I don’t want to slam it, and I don’t want to cut the springs (I’d rather stay at stock height than cut springs). Im also fairly new to the coilovers design of the 280z, I’m used to the 620 torsion bars/leaf springs. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
  4. So after some more research, it sounds like body filler would crack out pretty quickly. I have a welder but I’m not a competent welder lol. So another question is, what tool would be best for cleaning out that seam from fiberglass filler?
  5. Hey, I’m getting close to laying down some paint, and I’m currently finishing up some body work. I’ve had to do a ton of body work on the bed, due to rust, and I’m wondering if anyone has ever filled that weld seam on the lower part of the bed? Any pros or cons of doing this? I’ll try to add a photo of the seam I’m referring to. Thanks
  6. I was referring to Datsun Recyclers in Springfield Oregon. Not sure if that’s the one you’re meaning
  7. Sort of. I still need to rebleed the system to firm up the brakes, but they hold pressure now. I had to tighten up the bottom “nut” that the brake line attaches to. I highly recommend not buying the autozone master cylinder if at all possible. My truck is currently down because I’m doing body work and getting close to painting, so I haven’t spent much time working on brakes. Sorry for the late reply, and let me know if you have any other questions.
  8. Thanks for the reply. I ended up picking up some 15x10s today, so I won’t be running any wheel spacers. Now I’m searching for tires. Probably going to go for some 205/50/15s
  9. I’m looking to change up the wheel and tire setup for my truck, and I want to go wide with flares. I originally wanted to get 15x10s, but I’m having trouble finding anything decent in my area. (Anyone have some 15x10s they want to sell in Eugene Oregon? I’m willing to drive if need be). Anyways, I found some 15x8 D-slot wheels, and I was thinking about getting them, and then running 2 inch spacers. That would also make tire selection a bit easier. Any pics? Thanks!
  10. Makes sense. I’ll pick up an FSM soon. I bled the master and brakes today. They felt great a few minutes, then I turned the truck on and test drove it and they got spongy. I’m really stumped on this. I’m tempted to take it to a local Datsun shop.
  11. Sorry for the delay. I got the new MC today. Haven’t bled anything yet. My manual is a Haynes, and it says it covers 73-79. I’m probably just incompetent and overlooked the portion that talked about the NLSV. Thanks for all the help! I’ll let you know when I get it bled and hopefully working.
  12. Well the gasket didn’t work out, so I went to autozone and apparently my MC is still under warranty so I ordered in a new one. Hopefully that should resolve my problems. Thanks for the help. One more question about the NLSV: do you ever bleed the back one? I checked my manual and I couldn’t find any info about the NLSV at all.
  13. Well here’s the update. I rebled everything, including the NLSV, and the brakes felt great. Then I notice drops of brake fluid dripping from the brand new MC I got from autozone. After doing some further research, it sounds like aftermarket MCs really are crap. I made a gasket for the place where it was leaking, and it now doesn’t leak. I attempted the bleed everything again, but couldn’t get the pedal to firm up. I’ll need to bleed more and hopefully that’ll fix it
  14. Thanks for the info. I should be able to get a helper today, then I’ll report back. Thanks
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