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About Speedymaru

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/07/2001

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  • Location
    Eugene, Oregon
  • Cars
    1978 Datsun 620

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  1. I lowered it about 1 1/2-2 inches. I think I’m going to go get it aligned, see how it drives, then add parts if I’m not happy with it
  2. Thanks for the info. I noticed the rear has some camber, and possibly some toe in. I’m going to take it to a shop to get it aligned, are there any parts I should add before doing that? I’m not worried about the small amount of camber, but I’d like to have the toe in removed
  3. Mike, thanks for the write up. This is what I ended up doing, and it’s working well. Now just to bleed the brakes and be done with the suspension for a while!
  4. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Also would be interested in black ones if chrome is not available. Thanks. I have a full set of 620 chrome headlight trim rings I could offer as a partial trade.


    Springfield, OR

  5. Yes, I am aware of the increased spring rate and camber. Thank you. Just trying to figure out what other springs I can use, because I already messed up the oem ones
  6. Hello, I have a 78 280z that I’m wanting to lower about 2 inches. I have the rear end torn apart, stock springs off, and new struts in. I was originally going to just cut the stock springs, but my dumb*** accidentally nicked the next coil when I cut it. I’ve heard of someone using Honda Accord springs, and I think chevette springs? Could be wrong about that. Im fine with having to cut the new ones too. This car is not used for autocross or hard runs, just a fun cruiser. Thanks!
  7. Yes, it pulls all the time when driving. Thanks for the info! I’m going to start digging into it.
  8. Thanks for all the info! Would you say that a chain tire shop (les Schwab, Firestone) could do the alignment, or should I look for something better? How do I tell if the oil bath dampers are still on? And I believe the rear shocks are also blown. Do you have any suggestions on where to buy suspension components?
  9. Hello, I’ve owned 3 620s, and recently finally got my hands on a 280z. It’s a 1978, and has virtually no rust (PNW car). Got the car home, put in a fresh battery and it fired right up. I paid 5500. I am definitely going to overhaul the brakes, and I’m wondering if there’s any common knowledge I should be aware of. Is replacing with stock components a good idea, or should I upgrade? I’m trying to keep my costs to a minimum. As the title says, the cars pulls decently hard to the left. I’m not going to mess with anything until after doing the brakes, as there’s a good chance t
  10. So after some more research, it sounds like body filler would crack out pretty quickly. I have a welder but I’m not a competent welder lol. So another question is, what tool would be best for cleaning out that seam from fiberglass filler?
  11. Hey, I’m getting close to laying down some paint, and I’m currently finishing up some body work. I’ve had to do a ton of body work on the bed, due to rust, and I’m wondering if anyone has ever filled that weld seam on the lower part of the bed? Any pros or cons of doing this? I’ll try to add a photo of the seam I’m referring to. Thanks
  12. I was referring to Datsun Recyclers in Springfield Oregon. Not sure if that’s the one you’re meaning
  13. Sort of. I still need to rebleed the system to firm up the brakes, but they hold pressure now. I had to tighten up the bottom “nut” that the brake line attaches to. I highly recommend not buying the autozone master cylinder if at all possible. My truck is currently down because I’m doing body work and getting close to painting, so I haven’t spent much time working on brakes. Sorry for the late reply, and let me know if you have any other questions.
  14. Thanks for the reply. I ended up picking up some 15x10s today, so I won’t be running any wheel spacers. Now I’m searching for tires. Probably going to go for some 205/50/15s
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