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Speedymaru

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About Speedymaru

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/07/2001

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eugene, Oregon
  • Cars
    1978 Datsun 620

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  1. So after some more research, it sounds like body filler would crack out pretty quickly. I have a welder but I’m not a competent welder lol. So another question is, what tool would be best for cleaning out that seam from fiberglass filler?
  2. Hey, I’m getting close to laying down some paint, and I’m currently finishing up some body work. I’ve had to do a ton of body work on the bed, due to rust, and I’m wondering if anyone has ever filled that weld seam on the lower part of the bed? Any pros or cons of doing this? I’ll try to add a photo of the seam I’m referring to. Thanks
  3. I was referring to Datsun Recyclers in Springfield Oregon. Not sure if that’s the one you’re meaning
  4. Sort of. I still need to rebleed the system to firm up the brakes, but they hold pressure now. I had to tighten up the bottom “nut” that the brake line attaches to. I highly recommend not buying the autozone master cylinder if at all possible. My truck is currently down because I’m doing body work and getting close to painting, so I haven’t spent much time working on brakes. Sorry for the late reply, and let me know if you have any other questions.
  5. Thanks for the reply. I ended up picking up some 15x10s today, so I won’t be running any wheel spacers. Now I’m searching for tires. Probably going to go for some 205/50/15s
  6. I’m looking to change up the wheel and tire setup for my truck, and I want to go wide with flares. I originally wanted to get 15x10s, but I’m having trouble finding anything decent in my area. (Anyone have some 15x10s they want to sell in Eugene Oregon? I’m willing to drive if need be). Anyways, I found some 15x8 D-slot wheels, and I was thinking about getting them, and then running 2 inch spacers. That would also make tire selection a bit easier. Any pics? Thanks!
  7. Makes sense. I’ll pick up an FSM soon. I bled the master and brakes today. They felt great a few minutes, then I turned the truck on and test drove it and they got spongy. I’m really stumped on this. I’m tempted to take it to a local Datsun shop.
  8. Sorry for the delay. I got the new MC today. Haven’t bled anything yet. My manual is a Haynes, and it says it covers 73-79. I’m probably just incompetent and overlooked the portion that talked about the NLSV. Thanks for all the help! I’ll let you know when I get it bled and hopefully working.
  9. Well the gasket didn’t work out, so I went to autozone and apparently my MC is still under warranty so I ordered in a new one. Hopefully that should resolve my problems. Thanks for the help. One more question about the NLSV: do you ever bleed the back one? I checked my manual and I couldn’t find any info about the NLSV at all.
  10. Well here’s the update. I rebled everything, including the NLSV, and the brakes felt great. Then I notice drops of brake fluid dripping from the brand new MC I got from autozone. After doing some further research, it sounds like aftermarket MCs really are crap. I made a gasket for the place where it was leaking, and it now doesn’t leak. I attempted the bleed everything again, but couldn’t get the pedal to firm up. I’ll need to bleed more and hopefully that’ll fix it
  11. Thanks for the info. I should be able to get a helper today, then I’ll report back. Thanks
  12. Didn’t have a helper today so I couldn’t bleed them. I did notice a bit of brake fluid on the lines that connect to the MC. It wasn’t much though. I just replaced the MC. Something else I noticed was that when you turn the truck off, there’s a very slight “hiss” coming from the booster/MC area. I did the handbrake test, and it made no difference. One question, for Datzenmike: is that list that you posted the order that I’m supposed to bleed in? Just want to make sure. Thanks.
  13. I’ll try the handbrake test today. Thanks The truck is only parked on grass/mud so I may not notice a leak. I’m going to be honest, I didn’t even know the nlsv even existed. And yes, I adjusted the shoes so they drag a little against the drum. I haven’t noticed a drop in fluid in the MC, so that would be an indication that I do not have a leak. Thanks for everyone’s help. I’ll post back here in while with results. Thanks
  14. Like the title says. I bled all 4 corners today, and the brakes felt good for an hour or so, and now the pedal goes nearly to the floor. I used the two person method, and also had a piece of vinyl tubing to help further prevent any bubbles. Yes, I ensured that all of the bleeders were tightened. Also, the pedal does return all the way to the top of travel on its own. I replaced the MC, and bench bled it. I replaced the rears with new drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and hardware. I also had to replace the bleeders in the rear. In the front, I replaced the rotors and pads. I may be wrong about this, but my diagnosis is this: there is a leak somewhere in the system, and I’m thinking that it’s the front brake system that’s leaking because the pedal gets hard about 1-2 inches from the floor, which I believe is when it pushes mainly on the rear brakes. Apologies if that doesn’t make sense. Any help is appreciated.
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