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About DatsSully

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    Fucking future me over

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  1. Code: 144134696129320592 EXP: Sept. 6
  2. It was straight forward and would have only took me about two days if I hadn't gone through everything and made it all pretty. I found it was a good time to replace my LCA bushing, Ball joints, and T/C bushings. If I was to do it over again, after seeing the condition of everything down there, I'd have replaced my idler arms and bushings. I didn't take too many pics of the install though. I compiled all the info I found researching this(mostly from mike) and made it into a google doc, doing this for all the other stuff I'm doing to my car. When I get to a point I'm happy with I'll make a build thread and post them for people to use. This way any images used won't end up missing or with the photobucket watermark over them in the future. EDIT: Also I just used KYB shocks for the 280ZX since I didn't have the original oil filled ones. I used KYB gas shocks for the rear too, super easy to do unless you snap a bolt head like I did.
  3. Not to hijack the thread but I'll be doing a 280zx strut swap on my 710 soon. They didn't come with the inserts, would the oil inserts from my original struts swap in or will I need to purchase gas shocks? Also I recently replaced my rear shocks with basic KYB's, they seem to have improved the ride quality a small amount compared to the 45 year old shocks. Just don't try to tighten the bottom bolt too much, or better yet replace it with a new grade 8 bolt. Otherwise you might be spending some time with your good friends drill and tap.
  4. I'm wondering if anyone can tell me what kind of weather stripping will work on my rear windows of my 710. After 40+ years they've dry rotted and crumbled. Any insight on the best way to go about it would be appreciated too, the chrome trim looks like it'll need to be removed. Pics for reference - [/img
  5. Sorry it took me awhile to respond, I've been busy. I put a regular filter on as I said previously and my gauge is mechanical connected the old oil pressure sensor port. The pressure builds up normally when revved but it's very low around 1200 rpm( about 10 psi) and pretty much non-existent at 1000 and below and it starts to idle rough. Before I put this engine in I replaced the timing chain and every gasket I could(head, oil pan, timing chain cover set, water pump, oil pump, etc) so the main bearing being worn out sounds like the most likely culprit due to the history of the engine. I'll put the other oil pump on when i get the chance and see if that solves it, if not is worn out main bearing a cause for concern? I could tear out the engine again, I'd just rather not unless it's important and I've never touched anything on a crankshaft before besides the flywheel.
  6. So I've been messing with everything for awhile, I installed a bunch of gauges and whatnot to get a better idea of whats going on and I've found I still have no oil pressure at idle. I've read it's supposed to be at like 10+ psi at idle but anywhere under 1200rpm I get little to no oil pressure and it starts getting rough. I've removed the dummy light sensor and put in a basic mechanical Bosch gauge and it shows everything is fine in the upper rpms. I put in a thicker oil to try and raise it which it did a little bit but not much, I was going to put my other oil pump on but I read that that's for volume not psi, so that might be an avoidable headache. What worries me is that from what I've read it might be a clogged pickup tube or something similarly annoying. I also noticed that when I shut off the engine and took the oil fill cap off there was some smoke so I'm thinking there might be any or very little oil getting to the camshaft which worried me. Anyone have any clue to what my issue might be? if I have to take the oil pan off I might just swap the crank into my original L18 that I know is issue free so I can keep my manual trans, but I really don't want to do any of that if possible. Other things I did were voltmeter gauge(not charging right), temp gauge, and installed an electric fuel pump that came with the car(inline fuse, relay, good grounds, switch, etc). The fuel pump i think helped to get my idle down to about 1000rpm without bogging so that was nice.
  7. Shame, I was looking forward to seeing what you did with it.
  8. Nice, I'm going the same route with mine. I used pedals out of a 620, they use the same pedal box. I think you can used 510 and 610 pedals as well.
  9. You sir saved the day, thank you. The store didn't have the bosch but I got them to get the WIX equivalent which worked. Yeah I used the same mounts from my L18, I think I remember reading somewhere that the l20b leans a little more than the smaller engines which might have caused it. Thanks everyone for the help, I'll start a build thread soon that everyone can point out all the sketchy shit I did in haha It definitely says racecar which appealed to my inner child, I'll probably put a less sketchy one in when I have the resources/get everything else sorted out.
  10. I have the correct oil filter the engine leans a little too far so it hits the motor mount and won't twist on. The stuff was free and pretty temporary, the car has been sitting in my garage for years while I worked on it little by little when I had the time between work and college, and I just wanted it to run and move. There's a lot of things I still have to fix to make it road legal(The exhaust is hacked up and held together by pipe connectors and beer cans), the oil pan is stock with the L18 oil pickup tube, I had the whole thing apart at one point and swapped everything I could to stock components. I swapped the tubes and the light goes off at a lower RPM but will be dim occasionally. Is there a thinner oil filter than the WIX 51515 that will work because that would solve the issue completely.
  11. There's oil in the filter and I tried priming both hoses, it just drains into the block. I'm not sure but maybe I mounted the filter too high up and the oil can't reach it until the higher RPMs. Here's a couple pics(Don't mind the fact it looks like a disaster because I know :) , the loose wires are for my CB radio)
  12. I recently "finished" swapping an L20b and a 5 speed trans in my 710. I want to drive it around but I can't get the oil pressure light to go off. I put an external oil filter kit on it because the regular WIX filter wouldn't fit on the block and the block came with half of an external oil filter set up. So I got the external adapter and I have it mounted and hooked up correctly but the light will only go off at around 2k rpm and then back on at idle. It doesn't seem like any oil is actually running through the hoses because none will drain out when I disconnect and point downward. I can't find any information to help me relating to external oil filters. Some more information about the motor: Said to be an old SCCA spec motor - bored 40 over/custom cam I believe Oil pump was converted to 280zx pump if I remember correctly Oil filter mounted horizontally on strut tower Weber 32/36 Everything else is off of my old L18(Intake/Exhaust manifolds, thermostat housing, Alternator, etc) It runs fine but the manifolds smoke a bit either from the oil pressure, residual spilt oil, new gasket, or something. I might try putting my other oil pump off my L18 on but I'll need my garage for that which I don't have at the moment. I'm novice at this, did everything by myself by the book over the course of a couple years when I had time and has been a great learning experience I just need it to all work right. I can get pics of anything on request and any help is appreciated.
  13. The plugs were out while doing all of this and I'm pretty sure the leak was just coming from the intake manifold, I'm just dumb. I'll ahve to double check the lashing with the guy who sold me the engine since it's a custom cam but for the moment I have stock lashing. Also it's the small victories that keep me going with this project haha, Time is just as rare as motivation with this project. It's turning over than just not running, got some nice loud backfire(The exhaust isn't hooked up, open header ftw). I spent a good amount of time awhile ago getting the starter to work. I'll search around for things I might have missed(wiring and such since I swapped out the hitachi for the weber) This will run and drive before the winter this year. Again thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it.
  14. Thanks for the help guys, so the leak was coming from the manifold, didn't realize there was those other spots for bolts, that leak stopped after putting some washers and bolts on there. Then I had to switch the coolant line the runs across the front of the engine so that the thermostat and the intake can hook up their outlets, the one on the engine was just for the therm outlet. Doesn't leak now but I have to figure out whats keeping it from turning over(Probably just some starter fluid down the barrels in the morning will do the trick). The only thing holding me back here was my lack of knowledge, it's the little things that get me since I bit off alot for a newbie(Auto to manual swap and engine swap at the same time) so thanks again. Also I cleaned the gasket areas with a razor blade very carefully.
  15. The dowels are from my disassembled L18, I never took the cam towers off the L20b that I swapped in Those are in and the headgasket seems to be sealed now, the leak is now coming from the coolant passages that lead to the intake manifold.
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