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About CS310

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    South Bay
  • Cars
    72 510
  1. I appreciate the ideas. This is what I’m thinking. I’m going to disconnect the out line from the pump and see if anything changes. I will also try to remove the gas cap. By doing this it should eliminate the fuel line under the car. If no change, I will test the pump using a gas can. If the pump works, it must be a problem with the tank. The car ran before, but not very well. There could be some problem with the tank. Im using the lower outlet (smaller diameter) in the tank. I think the return line is the top one (larger diameter), correct?
  2. I replaced my Weber 32/36 carb on my 72 510 with a new one. The mechanical fuel pump was also shot, so I decided to replace it with an electric fuel pump. I’m having trouble with the electric fuel pump. It doesn’t have enough “push” to get fuel to the carb. Electric Fuel Pump Setup: I used an Airtex 2.5-4psi rotary type in-line fuel pump. Mounted just underneath the front of the fuel tank, behind the rear seat. I used the extra switched circuit in the fuse box for the hot side. I ran the ground side through an inertia switch mounted under the dash. I used a Russell 40 Micron fuel filter between the tank and pump. I used a clear stock type paper fuel filter between the pump and carb. I use ¼ rubber hose for inside fuel lines. I used the stock hard fuel line under the car. Result: When I turn the ignition, the fuel pump starts as it should, but very little fuel makes it to the clear paper filter and it took several minutes to get there. It filled the filter to just below the element. In addition, the pump got hot. I tried each one of the ideas below, one at a time, with no improvement. 1. Removed the paper filter. 2. Bypassed the fuse box and ignition switch. Ran hot right to the battery. 3. Removed the Russel 40 micron filter. 4. Installed an AC Delco 2.5 - 4psi in-line electric fuel pump. Same as installed on “Zeke”. Other things I checked. 1. Disconnected the fuel line at the carb. Ran the pump. Very little fuel, took several minutes to get there. 2. Check the float chamber. Very little fuel. 3. Confirmed 12v at the pump. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  3. I wanted to give an update on my issue. This is what I did. 1. Checked all the grounds for the lights. No problem here. 2. Cleaned the white wire connector coming out of the fuse box. This looked good before cleaning but wanted to be sure. 3. Cleaned and soaked the fuse box in lemon juice and salt. This worked amazing. Also used a brush with a dremel on low speed to do a final cleaning. The result was good. The park/tail fuse was much cooler. Still a fuzz warm. No where near what it was. Then I discovered a mistake on my part. When I replaced the park/brake bulb receptacles, I switched the park and brake wires. So when I would turn on the parking lights, the brighter 1/2 of the bulb would light up, using more power. I switched this and the fuse box is nice and cool.. i appreciate all the suggestions and advice.
  4. I’ll do that as well. Thanks Banzai.
  5. I’ll check the grounds and try cleaning the fuse box. I’ve used this same mixture to clean my hands after handling mahogany wood. Worked awesome. Thanks guys.
  6. Hey guys, I need some help with my 72 510. The park/tail fuse terminal gets hot when I turn on the parking lights. Only the outside terminal. This is what I’ve tried so far. Replaced the fuse Cleaned the fuse box terminals Swapped out the fuse box Swapped out the light switch Unplugged all the rear lights (This seemed to help. The terminal stayed somewhat cool. Maybe a fuzz hotter.) The wiring on this car was a mess when I bought it. I’ve been slowly cleaning it up. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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