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About CS310

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  • Location
    South Bay
  • Cars
    72 510
  1. CS310

    L20B Engine

    This advert is COMPLETED!

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I'm looking for a L20B engine. Ideally, it would only need some external clean-up/tune-up and could be dropped in as an occasional driver. I understand this might be a stretch so one that needs to be rebuilt is ok. I can pick up around the So Cal area. Nationwide is fine if you could assist with shipping. Thanks!


    , California - US

  2. You nailed it. I ordered the Precision first, and when they didn’t fit well, I told myself to pony up the extra dough and get the Vintage Rubber seals. I might order a set of Datsport seals. I see people have goods things to say about their products. I wish they had a typical online ordering system.
  3. I would like to keep the factory look but these aftermarket seals are testing my patience. I think I’ll try the bulb seal you guys suggested. I appreciate the info.
  4. Anyone have experience installing either Precision or Vintage Rubber Door seals on a 510? After installing the seal the door doesn’t want to close. If feels like the seal is interfering with the body side. To determine the location of the interference, I cut a 12inch piece and mounted it in different locations around the door. It appears the problem is coming from the front of the door. I’ve tried both brands. The shape of both are very similar. The Vintage is a slightly better but still interfering. Any install tips or suggestions for another seal would
  5. Hey Ted, I’m currently using one from McMaster. It’s a little light but it works ok and fits right in.. https://www.mcmaster.com/9657K702/
  6. Crash: I haven't noticed it at low RPM's under hard acceleration. I'll check later to confirm. I would say it happens around 2500-3500K RPM and continues until I lift.
  7. Mike: I had previously checked around the exhaust for any signs of rubbing and I couldn't find any, specifically around the rear cross-member. The entire exhaust system is firmly mounted. It doesn't move at all when you push on it. Not sure if that's a good thing. I'll check the exhaust system again to confirm.
  8. The rattling sound starts at 1, 3 and 6 seconds into the video. I've been all over the car checking to make sure nothing is loose. I only hear the sound under hard acceleration. Specs are below. 72 510 L18 5spd Z trans 32/36 Weber
  9. I need some help identifying a sound. It's a high pitch rattling that happens under hard acceleration. I uploaded a quick video to YouTube. The link is below.
  10. It’s been several months but I finally found time to work on my 510 and run some tests. I wanted to share my results. 1. I disconnected the fuel line after the pump. Turned on the pump and the flow wasn’t that great. I removed the gas cap. No change. 2. I removed the pump and put the inlet hose in a full gas can, the outlet hose in an empty gas can and turned on the pump. The flow was excellent. Based on these tests, it appears I have some type of restriction in the tank. I removed the tank and had it cleaned and sealed by a local shop. I installed the
  11. I appreciate the ideas. This is what I’m thinking. I’m going to disconnect the out line from the pump and see if anything changes. I will also try to remove the gas cap. By doing this it should eliminate the fuel line under the car. If no change, I will test the pump using a gas can. If the pump works, it must be a problem with the tank. The car ran before, but not very well. There could be some problem with the tank. Im using the lower outlet (smaller diameter) in the tank. I think the return line is the top one (larger diameter), correct?
  12. I replaced my Weber 32/36 carb on my 72 510 with a new one. The mechanical fuel pump was also shot, so I decided to replace it with an electric fuel pump. I’m having trouble with the electric fuel pump. It doesn’t have enough “push” to get fuel to the carb. Electric Fuel Pump Setup: I used an Airtex 2.5-4psi rotary type in-line fuel pump. Mounted just underneath the front of the fuel tank, behind the rear seat. I used the extra switched circuit in the fuse box for the hot side. I ran the ground side through an inertia switch mounted under the dash
  13. I wanted to give an update on my issue. This is what I did. 1. Checked all the grounds for the lights. No problem here. 2. Cleaned the white wire connector coming out of the fuse box. This looked good before cleaning but wanted to be sure. 3. Cleaned and soaked the fuse box in lemon juice and salt. This worked amazing. Also used a brush with a dremel on low speed to do a final cleaning. The result was good. The park/tail fuse was much cooler. Still a fuzz warm. No where near what it was. Then I discovered a mistake on my part. When I replaced
  14. I’ll do that as well. Thanks Banzai.
  15. I’ll check the grounds and try cleaning the fuse box. I’ve used this same mixture to clean my hands after handling mahogany wood. Worked awesome. Thanks guys.
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