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Rat-a-tat-Dat

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About Rat-a-tat-Dat

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Okotoks, Alberta, Canada
  • Cars
    ''80 720 KC truck, '73 Super Beetle, '68 Firebird 4.1L, '85 Nissan 200SX
  • Interests
    Spending more time on my hobbies instead of the full time job.
  • Occupation
    Looking for a lifestyle that can get me 3 months off, four times a year.

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  1. I'm picking away at the fundamental or ineradicable items that are essential to the engines performance and operation. Here, I've altered a couple of primary functions on this engines atmospheric pipe and tubing methods. By salvaging a few original peripheral components I managed to incorporate them into a reformed method that kills two birds with one stone. This Tee fitting helped mitigate both engine block PCV and valve cover breathing systems into one. Situated this connector on the passenger side firewall. The lefthand hose was a salvaged item with two ninety degree offsets. An air filter was attached to the end of it, seen at bottom left corner of lower pic. The centre fitting on tee accommodates a hose between it and the valve cover breather tube. On the right side of the fitting, ( looking in picture ) a length of hose is required. It routes in behind the valve cover and firewall until it reaches a junction whereas the PVC is sandwiched in the middle, secured between both hoses. An elbow attaches to the remaining ( leftover ) hose. I joined these two together with just a short copper cut tube that fit perfectly inside each one and then connected this remaining hose to the engine ( PVC ) breather tube on the left side of the engine. This adaptation was easily routed because at each connection there is plenty of maneuverability to twist and adjust for inconsistencies. Note: some modification was necessary to bend this tube straighter and create a more accurate fitment. It was very close to the carb heat shield, originally. The only other additional piece to complete this contraption was a ninety degree, preformed elbow, with two hole size differences, one on each end. Viewed in the middle, at bottom of pic ( above ), just behind the brake booster. No part number, just an odd ball find in amongst my treasure chest, we all have one 😜 The final hose connection mated up with the pre-existing PVC tube, which had been modified by straightening. Most of the hoses and clamps were collected from the previous carburetors configuration. All my hoses are routed and ready for action!
  2. Emotively moving along with attaching the newish additions to the vehicle are four analog gauges; oil psi, coolant temp, battery voltage and systems amp draw. Acquired a heavy plastic object and proceeded to fabricate the necessary pieces for the face plate panels. The centre console, in front of the gear shifter, has two pockets. The top one is blind and the bottom one is counter sunk, these will be utilized for the positioning of the gauges. Once the two pieces were cut by using a jig saw, the melted plastic was released from the main plastic object and some finessing to all the edges trued these puppies up. Measurement and placement of the mounting holes is important, you have little space available on each side of the console openings. Next was to locate the appropriate location of two gauges in each piece. Plus, the exact location of the mounting holes to be drilled through the face plates. A 2 inch hole saw opened up the mounting plate enough to start the fitment process of the gauges. Manipulated the openings to accept each gauge housing was with a half round rasp file. Next step was to drill four holes, one in each corner of the mounting plates, to attach these two pieces to the console openings. Number 10 x #32 ( thread ) x 1 1/4" machine screws were fitted. Once the holes were drilled, each one had been then counter sunk to a depth that just covered the head of the screws, this counter sunk opening is 3/8". A fitment mockup with the gauges installed. On the back side of the console, the bottom openings were then addressed and two holes were 'drilled' out to accommodate the necessary depth of the gauges and to attain wiring accessibility. As you can observe, the circles were cut by drilling holes repeatedly in the shape of a circle, to allow proper recess and gauge fitment. These guys basically hold everything together. Screws up front and the 'well nuts' in behind. After connecting the appropriate lead wires to the gauges, and testing the back lighting of each, it looked something like this. As seen from the operators position.
  3. Amused myself the other day with identifying a sleuth of possibilities to convey the perfect appeal and enhancement to the engine bay optics. ( I viewed several different options for the engine bay overall look ) Definitely going for the frugal and inexpensive route but also wanting it to be an awareness and attention factor. The tri-colour scheme is pretty much the baseline I've started with ( purple sub frame, orange engine bay {maybe exterior too} and green drivetrain components ). Just trying to limit other colours and tones to help accentuate these initial colours. Did you notice the accented tidbits throughout the engine... copper, silver and gold ( fools gold, lol ). Also, some bronze, aluminum and cadmium are incorperated but the chrome has been used sparingly and selectively. Not totally completed yet but with patience and time the outcome shall be reviewed. Of course I strayed from this concatenation on several accounts ( i.e: blue exhaust ) but you've got to experiment to verify a theory, right? Have an awesome day Ratsunites!
  4. Here on the first carb (closest to the firewall), I'm using these two holes (without screws) to fit the bottom bracket on. The top hole, as seen in the photo, will require spacers to correct any unevenness in-between there carb and bracket. Next photo is of the bottom bracket, which is mounted on top of the carb, using the bell crank brackets only two holes on the one side. After some fabrication, paint and fitting, this top bracket mounts to the bottom bracket, followed by attaching the saddle (U-bolt) bracket holding the throttle cable into place. T/c is adjusted and fixed to the rocker lever on the central control shaft. Any slack is taken out of the cable and free movement is needed to ensure carbs are operating properly from stop to wide open and back again. Next up, routing and installing the manual cable system.
  5. A picture is worth a thousand words. Gibberish is as valuable as the paper ( you get the idea ) it was written on. Context is the circumstances that form a statement, idea or terms that which can be understood. ie: pictures Clarity is the quality of being coherent and intelligible. I can't read some doctors prescriptions but somehow they manage to get filled. Go figure!? A desultory conveyance will be reciprocated by a perfunctory action. (to wit facetiously) 🧐😁
  6. I'm continuing to forge through all of these collective dark forces of misaligned continuities and prolonged denouement. Still unscathed of perils and disconcertment, I shall press forward relentlessly in my quest to overcome any barrier or unforeseen obstacle. Hence, the adaptation of the fuel control management issue, concerning a throttle linkage modification. The top of the bracket will be eliminated to appropriately convey a more visually aesthetic appearance. The next item up on the agenda will be to continue with the fuel performance, i.e. fuel delivery status.
  7. Well, onward and upward. Carpi Diem! Attached both carbs to the intake mani, plus the fabbed heat shield to both carbs, then mounted the air filter housings to carbs. The overall look is not too bad considering all the turmoil and vexation it took to get this far. The newer, smaller brake booster was instrumental in the adaptation of this configuration and I was relieved to find the proper air filter boxes, with the right sized filters and clips, of course. An incredible increase in the much required space between the carbs and the booster indeed.
  8. Draft table fabrication and work bench development for the twin DCOE carbs. Heat shield fitment between carbs and exhaust mani. I have designed this configuration to allow placement between carbs and the air filters plus an additional two mounting holes located on top of the exhaust mani. Question... Should the shield be mounted at both ends? What's the disadvantage if it is? I've heard it's better to leave them hanging freely and only by the carbs. Is this factual or myth? It seems to have enough flexibility that it couldn't interfere with vibration and light enough that it doesn't disrupt the carbs mounting design. Any thoughts?
  9. Wow! Time flies when you're in a coma. Summer's over and I hardly touched Helios. It's nice to have big plans but certain priorities shift good intentions. Completed the long over due wiring, insulating, and drywalling of the garages interior so I can enjoy and carry over any summer project into the winter months. Whew! No more drywall cluttering the much required space in the new 'shop' bay so now Helios has risen to the occasion ( set high on block platforms ) and ready for a modified exhaust system. Plus, several other necessary detailed essentials. Oh, my wonderful wife surprised me with a MIG welder for my birthday. Such a sweetheart and supporting love, a heartfelt thanks! Sizing up a location to make the initial incision. A lame attempt at exhaust welding, may require a hellofa lot more practice! Nothing a grinder can't fix, lol. New gasket showed up. Stay tuned, once I figure out how this MIG works, some mod's will be in order.
  10. As for your clock issue, I had mine ('80 Datsun King Cab, OEM) sent to a watch maker in the big city and from what he described was some very basic cleaning and lubricating technics. Old clocks sit for a long time (no pun intended) collecting all kinds of dust particles and what not. So, save a few dollars and use a low pressure dust removal tool ( compressed air in a can?) or a regulated ( air controlled type) with a common style compressor and some light machine oil, used sparingly. Should free up the gears and motor controls. If required, let oil penetrate seized areas by simply being patient and wait a day or to between applications. Spin clocks hands to ensure free movement with finger dial and wait. That's it! Unless motor is completely seized then this method should work.
  11. Well, I don't know if this qualifies as a great find but whatever you want to call it, it's now a member of the family? 1985 Nissan 200SX 2 door hatchback coupe. This gentleman was kind enough to part with IT! It has been sitting for quite some time... initial cause for neglect, one blown head gasket. Engine is a CA20(E), bolted to a FS5W71B 5 speed tranny. Not shown is the pieces missing from the front end. Mostly complete, just requires a plethora of TLC. 'Cyclops' comes to mind....
  12. Rat-a-tat-Dat

    Uk datty 720

    I stand corrected! Quote from Wikipedia: Early 1980 to early 1983 models have single wall beds with outside rolled lips and rope ties, two faux hood vents (some had real vents), and tail lights on the lower rear valance (similar to the 620). These vehicles were badged with a small Datsun logo on the driver's side of the grill, a raised plastic Datsun badge on the front fenders, a large Datsun embossed on the rear tailgate, as well as Datsun stickers on the bottom left of the tailgate, and model designation on the right. The later 1983's front end underwent transformation with a larger grille, bumper, and corner lights. There was also a revised dashboard with round instead of square gauges ( Pickmeup has the square type). At the same time, the regular cab was lengthened slightly and the air extractor vents behind the cab doors changed from the high "flag" look too long, narrow ones that matched the height of the window opening. The cabs of the King Cab versions were unchanged. For a limited period, 1984 models built in the US had the single wall beds with rope ties, yet used tail lights on the rear bed corners with amber turn signals over the red stop/tail lights while the backup lights remained under the tailgate. These "in-between" models were a combination of Datsun and Nissan badging, with Nissan replacing Datsun in similar fashion to the earlier models, but incorporated a "Datsun by Nissan" plastic trim piece on the front fenders, and "Datsun by Nissan" stickers on the tailgate. The late model trucks produced from 1983.5 to 1986 used double wall, smooth sided beds, with revised tail lights on the corners which resembled those on Chevrolet/GMC S-series trucks. The badging was exclusively Nissan (going along with Nissan's rebranding and conversion of 1,100 Datsun dealerships to Nissan dealerships), with the name officially being "Nissan 720", which is found in the owner's manual, service manual, and literature from the period.'s Pickmeup has a unique combination of early as well as late badging for identification purposes. Plus, it's a RHD indicating an overseas unit? In addition, some overseas models continued with the early style beds in the later model years as well as round headlamps, and included various combinations of Datsun and Nissan badging while retaining the Datsun name throughout all model years. There's also the removal of the rear bumper that essentially changes its normal (?) appearance. Also, the front bumper has had some cosmetic implants installed.
  13. I've seen these before, but on industrial equipment, like on the steering axle in a forklift. An older Hyster or perhaps Clark comes to mind. Check these dealerships if its a last resort.
  14. Rat-a-tat-Dat

    Uk datty 720

    The bed is off of an earlier '70's model, more notably a 620. The front fender mirrors are also an addition from the same vintage truck, or possibly a Sunny 1200 UTE. But then again, the entire vehicle has been modified, like most resto projects, with some personal touches. Your wish list is no exception. Cheers!
  15. Rat-a-tat-Dat

    Uk datty 720

    Great to have you aboard! Someone's been busy, I see an older box mounted on a newer frame, but it looks good!
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