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Rat-a-tat-Dat last won the day on August 14

Rat-a-tat-Dat had the most liked content!

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About Rat-a-tat-Dat

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Okotoks, Alberta, Canada
  • Cars
    '80 720 KC truck, '73 Super Beetle, '68 Firebird 4.1L, '85 Nissan 200SX
  • Interests
    Your money, but I'm stuck with mine.
  • Occupation
    Looking for a lifestyle that can get me 3 months off, four times a year.

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  1. Sorry, didn't answer your question. Aluminum heads need to be heated up first, usually a propane torch will do, but just heat the area slightly. With the right size hammer, guides generally come out in 15~25 strong, steady blows. Make note of any guides that come out looser than others and if you find a stubborn one, not much movement, try using an air hammer. Take measurements of the guides bore I.D. by using a snap gauge, dial bore gauge or a micrometer. Not sure of the actual tolerance here but I think you can buy oversized guides if required.
  2. Other options, instead of replacing valve guides, are knurling or valve guide liners.
  3. Still waiting for the emulsion tubes to arrive from the UK. Been over three weeks, Covid-19 delays, I'm sure. But look what I found in the mean time.... Waking by a truck in town, these 6 bolt rims just happened to catch my eye. 15x7's! They were not in the best presentable state, with exposure to the elements the surfaces were degraded. The owner was in good spirits though and parting with them was well, what he said, "It was meant to be". After hours of clean up, elbow grease and more elbow grease, they started to shine, literally. Unfortunately, half of the rims didn't make it to an acceptable finish. The original finish had been eroded away, leaving only a flatter shine. Tried several methods of polishing techniques but to no avail the difference between them is quite noticeable. Maybe pair the rims together, best ones on the right side and the worse ones on the left, lol. Here, you can see the dullness in the top and left rims. Much shinier in the right and bottom ones. Thinking that I could Plastic-Dip them into whatever colour works for the truck. Compelled to go with a strong WHITE. Thoughts?
  4. Alas, time verses the dime paradigm Credits to your insight Mike
  5. Thanks Mike, most helpful as usual From the collegiate church of Ratsun, is there any value with the turbo, other than its original L28 purpose? Meaning, did others find any use for it on other applications? Cheers
  6. I'm by far no expert on Datsun's, however, there are a lot of knowledgeable people and enthusiasts that have profound experience in dealing with any questions put are forward to them here. So, with no further ado I'd like to propose an open ended question on this matter... One 1980 Datsun, type HS130, L28et engine, T-roof, has been sitting for quite a while, doesn't run, rust in usual places and for sale. Q: Any idea of the worth? Pics:
  7. Well, my mini vaca from Helios was not on account of neglect but of frustration and disappointment, all because of a Weber specialist from Redline. We were exchanging carburation information between us and I thought our progress was going well... I'll edit this novel and turn it into a short story. After several weeks of on again off again tag, I wasn't sure if he had gone on vacation or what but a lack of responding on his part was irritating and so unprofessional, it left me haggard and it exhausted my enthusiasm to calibrate the carbs. I had hope and anticipation in completing this task without subjecting myself to needless and expensive trial and error costs but alas, thanks to good old what's his name, it seems my trepidation of having profound and logical advise gets tossed into the abortion bin, again. So much for the professional approach. Oh, and thanks for letting me hang for weeks on end without responding to any of my emails, JERK! Biting the preverbal bullet and ordering emulsion tubes, previously perused info from Crashtd720 via Weber Tuning Manual
  8. Nudity vs Porn: The distinction is made in terms of the context in which the subject is presented. If the material is created with the sole specific intention to sexually excite, then one could argue that it is pornographic. If it has other aims beyond that singular goal, one could argue that it is not. Take, for example, a nude image of a person displayed in a medical textbook designed to give instruction - definitely nudity, definitely not pornographic. Take works of erotic fiction, which although designed to excite, also hold literary and artistic value beyond that sole purpose. That being said, the lines of distinction aren't so clearly drawn, and a lot relies on individual response - something can be pornographic yet still have artistic merit. Some (myself included) would argue that this is almost always the case. And something which isn't designed to be arousing might nevertheless provoke arousal in somebody - that doesn't makeit pornographic. My position on it is that nudity is not inherently pornographic, and that the label of pornography can only be legitimately applied if that is at least one of the deliberate aims of the creator of that work. But it is a characteristic, not a singular defining generic label which overrides all others. Anything more than that is speculative, idiosyncratic and subjective on the part of the individual viewing it, and tells us more about them than any property held by the work itself.
  9. Just a wonderful and delightful thread to observe and follow. Truly great body work! I've noticed you use the 'Patch' word a lot. Seems only fair to suggest it becoming the vehicles new name? Just a thought, no disrespect, just saying.
  10. Real good advise, it's advantageous be methodical and deliberate one step at at time Those sites were very helpful and enlightening, thanks Considering exchange and shipping rates need to be included, I may have a meagre margin to work with but when the supply is insufficient, alternative action is imperative
  11. Immersed myself into the depths of understanding the intricate details and internal operations of all the components that make these carbs perform well. Knowing basic tuning of these carbs was not helping but only hindering the outcome. Step by step measures unravelled a plethora of inconsistencies and under compensated values. I can divulge several details, at this prominence, which entail an early diagnosis but not limiting rectification by assumption. Hard choices demand specific characterizations and involves a total, if not complete, understanding on how everything is related, balanced and controlled. I'm no expert by any means but I do like to understand how things work. Decisions get easier with knowledge and knowledge is the key to success. Known issues were: 1) poor mounting location of the heat shield for the carbs 2) used carbs installed on a completely different application 3) rough idling 4) over fuelling ( gassy smell ) 5) performs better at higher rpm's 6) newbe trying to do the impossible Newer finds and results: 1) not all main jets were same size 2) emulsion tubes are underrated for cylinder size 3) Venturi size require a larger opening 4) float level gap inconsistent 5) open float (full drop) over rated value 6) idle speed screw value critical 7) mixture screw settings are very important 8 ) idle air bleed screw adjustment requires a synchrometer, if needed 9) spark plug colour indicates issues 10) timing degree mark vs actual 11) total advance at 3000rpm? 12) check throttle plates for restrictions and trueness 13) soft mount, attached between carb and intake, clearances are critical As I dive deeper, I'll keep record of any other asymmetrical encounters and remedies. Parts order list is near completion.
  12. OMG, what a challenge. I don't know about you fellas down south but up here in Canukville, Weber carb emulsion tubes are worth as much as gold. A set of four is north of a hundy, without shipping. Ouch! Another century note for air horns. Time to be creative!
  13. Chalk one up for air horns Appreciate the input John510
  14. As delinquency dictates, I've read several articles on the actuality and representation of the necessity for air horns and it is quite convoluted. Pro vs Con, there hadn't been any straightforward measure or evidence supporting benefits. Thus, my option not to include them was primarily an experiment. Plus, I had trouble locating the size and length required. More so, the options available, albeit the top mounted or the internal air horn fitment type. These were considerations but not on my priority list. Most of the articles are rendering parts sales and promoting business, hence the absence of really solid facts of conviction. I'm not a naysayer, but with my set up the need of such short air horns mounted inside these short air filter housings makes me wonder if there would be a significant difference. However, a benefit I shall gladly accept once a noticeable change has been procured. At one point I had considered too fabricate an adaptation of an air horn. I got inspired by what DatsunMike had done on his build. "Appropriate measures emancipate inadequate gains". As always, thanks. I really do appreciate the help.
  15. My calculation based on engine size is roughly 488cc per hole, which equates to an F2 emulsion tube. A logical place to start. One main jet was a different size also on the rear carb, not too much out ~ 0.05", 120 vs 125's Accelerator pump jet, on same carb as above, had a bad washer underneath its mating surface. Could be why it was leaking fuel. Noted; Most gasket surfaces between carb air filter housings and heat shield to carb mounting faces were discoloured, possible back fire residue? or heat transfer from exhaust manifold? I fabricated a one piece heat shield for both carbs and yes, mounted it to the carbs outer intake bodies. Basically sandwiched it in between the air filter housings with gaskets on either side. Was this a bad idea? As I'm scripting this message, I have discovered my mistake with the heat shield. My brain, at the time, had focused on a singular piece of metal to which the outcome was satisfactory. However, my failure was in the mounting. It had been mounted onto the exhaust manifold to help hold it in place, thus directly transferring high thermal heat to the carbs. Oh, what a clever boy! This will definitely be corrected, pronto. Live & learn. Thanks again Crashtd420 for more info
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