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Rat-a-tat-Dat

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Rat-a-tat-Dat last won the day on August 14 2020

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Victoria, BC Canada
  • Cars
    '80 720 KC truck, '73 Beetle sedan
  • Interests
    Your money, but I'm stuck with mine.
  • Occupation
    Looking for a lifestyle that can get me 3 months off, four consecutive times a year.

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  1. Greetings fellow Ratsunites, I have had a slight sabbatical in the interim from updating because of experiencing a 'glitch' or a 'slight technical difficulty' with entering any comments on this message balloon. Actually, I couldn't, but problem has resolved itself ( go figure? ). A transition in living accommodations and relocation coordinates have been a priority in our lives of late, which also contributed to the delay. I just unboxed this computer to address an update and disclose said tardiness. Update: Helios has been running better this year because of earlier carburetor refinements from last year however, during an outing and feeling very spunky, my right foot suddenly became extremely heavy and from a full stop Helios decided to engage into a gallop. While shifting gears to keep up, something unexplainable occurred to which Helios stumbled and fell into a despondent state. No longer did he encompass the energy of a wild horse but rather that of a half beaten plow horse. A serious foisting impact had been placed upon me during a routine jaunt. No matter, we Ratsunites engage when circumstances summon us. Turns out my heavy foot has found a weak spot in the firewall where the throttle accelerator is mounted ( no rust observed ). The super hard thrust impacted and physically shifted the metal underneath the pedal. It buckled, causing a shorter throttle stroke and choked off the travel to the carbs, hence the half assed response. Me thinks some modification is in order to rectify said condition. Has anyone else experienced or had this phenomena happen to them?
  2. Here’s an odd ball question.... I have a 1985 200SX CA20(E) and a 1980 720KC L20B. The question is what parts off of the 200SX will be compatible with the 720? I would think the 5 spd tranny but would like confirmation. Which other parts would work? Thanks in advance
  3. Rat-a-tat-Dat

    My 1971 521

    Here's an easy fix to attach the cable to the brace. Whoa! Very fuzzy but the implied is there. Drill a hole suitable to fit a 1/8" bolt with the head chopped off, curve bolt to arch desired and tighten with nut, clamped cable.
  4. Rat-a-tat-Dat

    My 1971 521

    Apologies d.p., my set up is actually on a 720 KC but my cable isn't much longer then yours. It's bolted to the f/w btw. On the centre pull cantilever, there's a pivot ball end, this can be modified or replaced with something that came be drilled out and pass the cable through which can then be anchored off. Liking the Kameari heat shield.
  5. Rat-a-tat-Dat

    My 1971 521

    Here I used the cantilever linkage off a Hitachi (original) 720 L20B carburetor. Attached to Redline's dual throttle linkage, centre pull set up. The support bracket is simple enough, just drill the holes to accommodate the U-bolt that will hold the cable.
  6. All good advise, so no worries. Sent me in the right direction so I'm actively engaged now. But seasonal changes are upon us and thus a cessation in carburetion refinement. Helios is stabled and at rest! Cheers!
  7. Oh my, oh my, what a subtle difference. Hadn't taken too long to install and the throttle response was immediate. Better idling, smoother transition through the rpm's and the overall carb characteristics have improved. A few minor tweaks with the synchrometer and they'll be all set up with these new tubes. I imagine this step is one of many, but for now, a noticeable improvement for sure. Next is figuring out the main jet and air corrector jet numbers. Q: I did notice on a couple of the jetting tube arrangements (after installing the new emulsion tubes), that two are sitting higher when all are bottomed out (stacked hight). It doesn't seem to affect the performance, so it can't be a serious problem, right? I had removed them to verify proper fitment and checked for restriction but all looked normal.
  8. One hell of a wait but they finally arrived, the new emulsion tubes for my Webers are here! The time for patience is over and before the days light rests in the west, Ol’ Helios’ gallop will quicken.
  9. Sorry, didn't answer your question. Aluminum heads need to be heated up first, usually a propane torch will do, but just heat the area slightly. With the right size hammer, guides generally come out in 15~25 strong, steady blows. Make note of any guides that come out looser than others and if you find a stubborn one, not much movement, try using an air hammer. Take measurements of the guides bore I.D. by using a snap gauge, dial bore gauge or a micrometer. Not sure of the actual tolerance here but I think you can buy oversized guides if required.
  10. Other options, instead of replacing valve guides, are knurling or valve guide liners.
  11. Still waiting for the emulsion tubes to arrive from the UK. Been over three weeks, Covid-19 delays, I'm sure. But look what I found in the mean time.... Waking by a truck in town, these 6 bolt rims just happened to catch my eye. 15x7's! They were not in the best presentable state, with exposure to the elements the surfaces were degraded. The owner was in good spirits though and parting with them was well, what he said, "It was meant to be". After hours of clean up, elbow grease and more elbow grease, they started to shine, literally. Unfortunately, half of the rims didn't make it to an acceptable finish. The original finish had been eroded away, leaving only a flatter shine. Tried several methods of polishing techniques but to no avail the difference between them is quite noticeable. Maybe pair the rims together, best ones on the right side and the worse ones on the left, lol. Here, you can see the dullness in the top and left rims. Much shinier in the right and bottom ones. Thinking that I could Plastic-Dip them into whatever colour works for the truck. Compelled to go with a strong WHITE. Thoughts?
  12. Alas, time verses the dime paradigm Credits to your insight Mike
  13. Thanks Mike, most helpful as usual From the collegiate church of Ratsun, is there any value with the turbo, other than its original L28 purpose? Meaning, did others find any use for it on other applications? Cheers
  14. I'm by far no expert on Datsun's, however, there are a lot of knowledgeable people and enthusiasts that have profound experience in dealing with any questions put are forward to them here. So, with no further ado I'd like to propose an open ended question on this matter... One 1980 Datsun, type HS130, L28et engine, T-roof, has been sitting for quite a while, doesn't run, rust in usual places and for sale. Q: Any idea of the worth? Pics:
  15. Well, my mini vaca from Helios was not on account of neglect but of frustration and disappointment, all because of a Weber specialist from Redline. We were exchanging carburation information between us and I thought our progress was going well... I'll edit this novel and turn it into a short story. After several weeks of on again off again tag, I wasn't sure if he had gone on vacation or what but a lack of responding on his part was irritating and so unprofessional, it left me haggard and it exhausted my enthusiasm to calibrate the carbs. I had hope and anticipation in completing this task without subjecting myself to needless and expensive trial and error costs but alas, thanks to good old what's his name, it seems my trepidation of having profound and logical advise gets tossed into the abortion bin, again. So much for the professional approach. Oh, and thanks for letting me hang for weeks on end without responding to any of my emails, JERK! Biting the preverbal bullet and ordering emulsion tubes, previously perused info from Crashtd720 via Weber Tuning Manual
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