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About Rat-a-tat-Dat

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Okotoks, Alberta, Canada
  • Cars
    '80 720 KC truck, '73 Super Beetle, '68 Firebird 4.1L, '85 Nissan 200SX
  • Interests
    Your money, but I'm stuck with mine.
  • Occupation
    Looking for a lifestyle that can get me 3 months off, four times a year.

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  1. Rat-a-tat-Dat

    Dual Weber L20B

    Have a look at my set up. Cannon regular sized intake, Weber DCOE side draft carbs, short air filter housings and one smaller brake booster. Very snug but everything fits.
  2. Welcome and hello. Truck looks like its in very good condition. Any story behind this vehicle that you can share with us? Maybe some insight to your plans? Cheers!
  3. Alas, after every carb jet had been removed, inspected, cleaned and replaced, the task of pinpointing the exact cause of the fuel throttle restriction manifested while routinely setting up the mixture and idle speed screws on the carburetors. Once normal engine operating temperature had plateaued, the inauspicious incident happened again. This time, I was positioned to witness the event unfold. The threshold began like turning on a water tap, the more you turn the valve open, the greater the flow. When this flow ( thermal heat ) reached the carburetors, it had an adverse effect on the butterfly valve in the front carb, forward barrel. Apparently when heated, the b/valve clearance in the carb tunnel becomes minuscule and it starts to bind, holding the throttle plate open and thus higher rpm's result. A quick tap on the accelerator and the carb's seat again on the idle set screws. A quick fix was to utilize a heavier return spring on the throttle rod shaft which now requires a firmer thrust on the gas pedal to propel Helios. It may be a bit crazy but it works for now. A complete dismantling and refinement to the one carb is in order. I OWN A DATSUN, RIGHT?!
  4. Thanks EDM620 for the feed back. I've done some minor adjustments to the throttle linkage to correct any misalignments, plus tested each heim-joint for pivotal motion and rotation. I'm thinking it has to do with heat transfer between the different metals in the throttle linkage itself. Perhaps my homemade heat shield, under the carbs, is sending too much heat to the outer edges and then thermally heating the heim-joints to the point of over expansion causing the seizing. IDK The carbs were neglected prior to installation, so you may have a valid point there. Today, all I had done was removed each set of jets and cleaned them out. Only a slight difference was noticeable, so I need to dig deeper. Rear brakes were checked several years ago (drums), just cleaned them up and reused. No loud clunking noise before, only just recently. I'll inspect the rear brakes to make sure all's ok.
  5. Rat-a-tat-Dat

    '80 720 L20B

    You could remove the pre-heat liners inside the head and port the openings as well.
  6. Man, the things that you tackle are priceless. We're learning quite a lot, precariously, through your experience. Kudos, and thanks for the inspiration. May I add one more suggestion to the rear spoiler wing?... just spit balling here The length of the wing is very long, so why not split the outer left and right wings to match the hatch. When the hatch opens, the two outer wing tips are securely fastened to the rear quarters and the middle section stays with the hatch door?
  7. Have been enjoying the mini-truck these last few weeks, fun to drive now with the extra boost in performance. Although there are a couple of issues which surfaced and just when I think they're remedied I'll experience these symptoms once again. Three fold; One ~ for some reason the carb linkage set up seizes and the throttle starts to get sticky. Usually happens in the first half hour of normal driving. I believe the heim-joints are the culprits cause I checked. Bad batch? Freed them, spaced them and coated them with graphite spray but this only lasts for a short period of time. Two ~ Carburetor idle circuit, after start up, has a tendency to idle very poorly. Need to feather the gas pedal to maintain rpm or engine stalls. Recalibrated and synchronized each carb but it feels like a faulty plug. Swapped out plugs but poor idling hasn't gone away. Next, I'll be looking into a possible clogged idle jet? or what? Three ~ when braking and coming to a full stop, I hear a loud clunking noise just before the truck stops. I also thought I heard the noise when I took off so now I'm over sensitized and believe I'm hearing things. Any ideas? Thanks Ratsun group
  8. Rat-a-tat-Dat

    '80 720 L20B

    Welcome to Ratsun... Don't forget to set #1 at TDC before removing the cylinder head. Use a proper wedging tool to hold the timing chain in place when removing the cam gear, this holds the chain tensioner from springing out, which can loosen the chain and detach from the crank gear teeth. DO NOT REMOVE the camshaft towers if removing the camshaft, leave them in place unless absolutely necessary when removing the head. There is some good information on this site regarding your vehicle. Just look under Forums, click General Discussion and then click on Manuals. Browse until you find the one that suits your needs. Happy mechanizing!
  9. Process of elimination... swap #4 rocker arm with any another one and check for any difference.
  10. Rat-a-tat-Dat

    My 1971 521

    Here's a fella who's selling 2 trannys, 'Idaho Hillbilly' located in Bonners Ferry, ID. Check classifieds!
  11. Rat-a-tat-Dat

    Power steering

    All these ideas are great but I still have to deal with the A/C unit that already exists there. I like my A/C on hot days.
  12. True that Mike. A crate engine is usually painted before shipping so a poor ground can happen quite easily. Removal of any paint to which the distributor housing contacts is essential, also make sure the engine is properly grounded to the frame.
  13. Very nice start to your build. Keep truckin'
  14. Since my previous post I've seen these with a five bolt pattern on, pardon my French, Ford Rangers.
  15. How are the tabs on the pick up wheel or stationary posts? Air gap between pick up wheel and posts should be preset but check this as well.
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