69FJWagon Posted January 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 so we got a set of 15x7 enkie 92s and my buddy loaned me a couple tires off his autocross car to test fit the tire size he runs 225-45-15s here are the pictures the rears fit with no issues the front I think I may need to run a 1/4" spacer to get it away from the strut a bit more but I think they will fit Clayton Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Ice, you hit it on the head with the damper thing, the problem with running big spring rates is the shocks / dampers are usally not designed or valved to handle to much spring rate and you usally over heat the shock and end up BLOWING the shock so to speak. I always try to tell people to not go cheap on shocks spend the money for the quality. When i first started autocrossing I was told that tokico illumina shocks were good shock for the money so I told the guy I was codriving his car with that I would spend the money on the shocks and struts for his mustang...long story short the 1000# springs upfront made the front struts last a total of two event weekend that's only 40 runs and they were garbage and tokico said they wouldn't warranty them because they were NOT designed for that much spring rate :mad: Clayton you said this earlier and I would like to learn a bit more about this. Primarily I have only been familiar with the 620 and lately I am starting to 'get into' the cars. I understand the stock springs are comfort, not performance handling oriented, so are 'soft' and a 'stiff(er)' rate is needed. So if stiffer springs resist movement or bounce and softer springs allow full suspension travel and possible bottoming out, why are stiffer springs harder on the shocks? Would not shocks that are damping over the whole range of suspension travel not heat up faster and more? Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted January 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Clayton you said this earlier and I would like to learn a bit more about this. Primarily I have only been familiar with the 620 and lately I am starting to 'get into' the cars. I understand the stock springs are comfort, not performance handling oriented, so are 'soft' and a 'stiff(er)' rate is needed. So if stiffer springs resist movement or bounce and softer springs allow full suspension travel and possible bottoming out, why are stiffer springs harder on the shocks? Would not shocks that are damping over the whole range of suspension travel not heat up faster and more? I will Try to expain and please be patient I am not an engineer and am still kinda learning myself... so most off the shelf shocks have a spring rate that the MFG has the shocks valved for or a range lets say a set of tokico shocks for a zx are valved for a spring rate range of say 100-200LBS springs then you want to get into a more agressive spring rate like a 350# or 400# spring now the valving inside the shock is outside its realm to control the suspension through its travel so the spring is over powering the fluid and the shim stacks in the valve/shock causing a heat build up and thus breaking down the viscosity of the fluid as well as ruining seals creating a shorter shock life... that make any sense??? Quote Link to comment
greengoon Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Clayton- the 92s look good on Lisa's car... and it always good to access your suspension/shock knowledge. :D Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Did you notch the rear controll arms? Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted January 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Did you notch the rear controll arms? Nope... but I may have to depending on sidewall flex of the tire I had 235s on the rear of my first 510 and had to trim the lip back on the control arm but those were 17" rims so once I figure out if the fronts will fit with a wheel spacer (1/4-3/8") then I will address the rear if need be I dont want to run 2 different size tires front to rear because I want to be able to rotate them You should be able to run 255s all the way around on the box flared car with no issues as long as you take the time to find the right offset wheel in a good width Clayton Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 I can stuff 275 35 17's on the box flared car. Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted January 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 I can stuff 275 35 17's on the box flared car. LOL...NOW YER TALKIN!!!! Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Love this dime! Its so clean & simple. Love the color. Love the LZ22. Love the dual mikunis. Its just 1 big LoveFest :wub: Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Love this dime! Its so clean & simple. Love the color. Love the LZ22. Love the dual mikunis. Its just 1 big LoveFest :wub: Thanks!!! :blush: Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 This is what it looked like when I owned it, back 8+ years ago This is what it looked like when Wagon Jon owned it That 510 gets around Quote Link to comment
datrod Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 I will Try to expain and please be patient I am not an engineer and am still kinda learning myself... so most off the shelf shocks have a spring rate that the MFG has the shocks valved for or a range lets say a set of tokico shocks for a zx are valved for a spring rate range of say 100-200LBS springs then you want to get into a more agressive spring rate like a 350# or 400# spring now the valving inside the shock is outside its realm to control the suspension through its travel so the spring is over powering the fluid and the shim stacks in the valve/shock causing a heat build up and thus breaking down the viscosity of the fluid as well as ruining seals creating a shorter shock life... that make any sense??? Good answer there Clayton. You may not be an engineer but a suspension guru you are. :lol: You must be taking notes when your hanging out at Troys shop. Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 This is what it looked like when I owned it, back 8+ years ago This is what it looked like when Wagon Jon owned it That 510 gets around LOL ya she has been around a bit Good answer there Clayton. You may not be an engineer but a suspension guru you are. :lol: You must be taking notes when your hanging out at Troys shop. Thanks John, Troy knows his stuff but to be honest I learned most of the little I know from my buddy Mike Maier he is a 4 time national autocross champion (www.maierracing.com) when I worked for him doing installs on mustangs years ago Troy has really helped translate it over into the 510 world and has tought me how these badass little cars like to be driven Quote Link to comment
WAGON JON Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Yeah, I even had it fuel injected and drove that thing from washington all the way to Phoenix Az. The thing was very reliable and at that time it was column shift L-16 efi'd. I even raced people top speed in that car and had the speedo beyond the 120 mark with the fullatomic auto-magic three speed! So what cha say about that! :D Eventually the tranny slowly died, then I got another auto 3-speed, and it eventually went buy-buy for a 5 speed. I got tired of the whole engine so I ditched the efi and sold it, to place a 80000 mi L-16 with a 32-36 and drove that configuration for a while. Then I sold it to some girl (not Lisa) in the military that had to have it then she sold it to the person Lisa and Clayton bought it from. And then.... Quote Link to comment
Wide14u Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 this is one nice car Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 this is one nice car Thanks it has been a lot of fun building and tweekin things here and there Quote Link to comment
speeder Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Great build thread on a neat lookin' car. Thanks for posting. Sick burnout and cross vids as well. Keep the updates coming. Quote Link to comment
Rustina 510 Posted January 22, 2011 Report Share Posted January 22, 2011 The car looks great dude, can't wait to see you lady beating your race times in it. I can't wait to get me Ermish Coilovers, your so lucky to have him and his awesome shop available Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted January 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 The car looks great dude, can't wait to see you lady beating your race times in it. I can't wait to get me Ermish Coilovers, your so lucky to have him and his awesome shop available Ya its pretty cool to have a good friend that owns a shop that just happens to build the kind of cars you love, I actually spent most of the day down there today hanging out, as always it was a pretty good time Quote Link to comment
Rustina 510 Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Hey, I have been trying to reach Troy Ermish about some rear coil overs, I've called him for 2 days with no response, and now it says his vm is full. I'm trying to pay for parts so this is a little concerning. Please pm me. Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Simply AWESOME build thread!!! Perhaps sometime you bay area dimers could show up to one of our SacDatsun meets??? That would be awesome! On the topic of suspension, good to see I'm not the only one who thinks 175# springs are too soft. I upgraded to 250's on my front GC coilovers and combined with Tockiko Illuminas i am much happier. But, I fear no spring, im intrigued by this ultra heavy rear spring deal, so i guess the basic run down is this?? 300# front with WHAT BAR?? 350# rear with no bar? 1/8-1/4" total rear toe? BTW, I knew that car looked familiar, then when i saw it WAS WAGONJONs car it all made sense. =) Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Hey, I have been trying to reach Troy Ermish about some rear coil overs, I've called him for 2 days with no response, and now it says his vm is full. I'm trying to pay for parts so this is a little concerning. Please pm me. He might be out racing. When I ordered parts from him they took a while to get to me because he was racing out in AZ and he had some vendor issues. I had to catch him on a Monday or Tuesday to order the parts and I finally got them all around 3 to 4 weeks later. It was worth it though. Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Hey, I have been trying to reach Troy Ermish about some rear coil overs, I've called him for 2 days with no response, and now it says his vm is full. I'm trying to pay for parts so this is a little concerning. Please pm me. Troy Left last thursday for The Nascar K&N Series Toyota shootout in Irwindale Speedway he will be back in the shop tomorrow morning around 10am Clayton Quote Link to comment
69FJWagon Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Simply AWESOME build thread!!! Perhaps sometime you bay area dimers could show up to one of our SacDatsun meets??? That would be awesome! On the topic of suspension, good to see I'm not the only one who thinks 175# springs are too soft. I upgraded to 250's on my front GC coilovers and combined with Tockiko Illuminas i am much happier. But, I fear no spring, im intrigued by this ultra heavy rear spring deal, so i guess the basic run down is this?? 300# front with WHAT BAR?? 350# rear with no bar? 1/8-1/4" total rear toe? BTW, I knew that car looked familiar, then when i saw it WAS WAGONJONs car it all made sense. =) this is the current set up but I am planning on making a few changes Front end: -350lbs springs, want to go down in front spring 275#-300# and up to a 1 1/8" front bar -15/16" front bar -Camber 3 1/4* -Castor 3-3.5* -toe 1/16" in Rear end: -275lbs spring...I tried 325# rears and it was to twitchy at the limit and on cold tires so I stuck the 275# spring back in -Camber 2 1/4* I am planning on checking the alignment again add some rear toe in to help with forward bite of the corners and corner weight it before the first autocross in March Clayton Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Thanks for the info, good to see that dime doing so well! Quote Link to comment
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