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NM 521


Oilspot

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I'm thinking the master cylinder pushrod may be adjusted to tight also! I got the centeric master from rock auto. I think I'll prob need to pull the pushrod out and shorten it about 3/8"! When I went to adjust it it wanted to run into the back of the pedal before I could get any Freeplay. That would explain the non releasing brakes!!!!

 

I've never seen front shocks addressed for lowered trucks here. Do stock shocks have enough travel to run with the torsions adjusted 2 clicks? 

 

A few more pics of the little mulevvzL7h7.jpgBXIVVvH.jpg

 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Nissan is not about to have a shock absorber bottom out before it hits the bump stops. If you are that low the shock absorber isn't doing anything on the compression and you're riding on the air in the tires.

Damn! It sounds like Nissan views the issue of absorbing shock... very seriously!!!! 

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Stock shocks work no problem when lowered. You can get KYB gas-a-just nitrogen shocks for the front too, but they’ll ride a little bit stiffer.

 

There’s a little plastic plug that snaps into the brake pedal where it contacts the brake light switch. Mine rotted and fell out one day, which makes the lights stay on the whole time. Make sure your plug is still there.

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Thanks Matt. :)   I have lots of them on hand.  

 

Oilspot, what m/c are you running?  If you're running stock, then the push rod has a mushroomed head and is captured behind a clip.  My new push rods will NOT work with the stock m/c.  If you're running a later m/c, where did you get the push rod?  If it's one from the scrap yard, then refer to the measurements I show in the thread I'll post a link to below.  

 

When you adjust the push rod, you'll want a tiny amount of play.....which I think you already mentioned.  Make sure the pedal is set to the correct height above the floor board....dims are in the FSM.  The return spring needs to be in place too.  

 

 

here's some info from when I was figuring out the push rods.  

 

 

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5 hours ago, mklotz70 said:

Thanks Matt. :)   I have lots of them on hand.  

 

Oilspot, what m/c are you running?  If you're running stock, then the push rod has a mushroomed head and is captured behind a clip.  My new push rods will NOT work with the stock m/c.  If you're running a later m/c, where did you get the push rod?  If it's one from the scrap yard, then refer to the measurements I show in the thread I'll post a link to below.  

 

When you adjust the push rod, you'll want a tiny amount of play.....which I think you already mentioned.  Make sure the pedal is set to the correct height above the floor board....dims are in the FSM.  The return spring needs to be in place too.  

 

 

here's some info from when I was figuring out the push rods.  

 

 

I looked at my order history from rockauto, and I've got a LUK master cylinder, stock replacement. This is  working off of memory (which isn't a very reliable source), but I don't think the pushrod was captured with a clip. I'm hoping not because if so I should be able to "easily" pull the pushrod, shorten it some, throw it back together and be done with it. 

Your pushrods are nice pieces!!! I worked machining for a few years and appreciate your craftsmanship, I'm just not sure that I need a full replacement.

That is unless I think I'll be able to show it off at shows/ meets. "hey duck your head way up under the ol' dash there and get a gander at my master cylinder pushrod.... she's a beaut!!!" :)

 

I think the pin that attaches the pushrod to the pedal on the brakes is in good condition (again, working off memory!). The pin/ connector between the clutch pedal/ master is the one that's shot and that i need a replacement for!!!

 

 

another thing I forgot to ask about....

There's something missing on my gas door/ clip apparatus. There's a spot (two holes), where some it looks like some type clip should reside. At this point the gas door swings open like a school bus stop sign when I hit the brakes. What am I missing here... does anybody have one?

 

Edited by Oilspot
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48 minutes ago, Oilspot said:

 

.... but I don't think the pushrod was captured with a clip. I'm hoping not because if so I should be able to "easily" pull the pushrod, shorten it some, throw it back together and be done with it. 

 

 

 

 

 

The 521 has shims behind the master cylinder and in front of the firewall to set the lateral clearance of the push rod. Try adding washer(s) first.

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9 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

The 521 has shims behind the master cylinder and in front of the firewall to set the lateral clearance of the push rod. Try adding washer(s) first.

this sparks another "oh yeah" memory moment. When Installing the MC there was only one shim, or I guess I should say a half of a shim set. So no my MC isn't shimmed out correctly, or at all for that matter. 

I'm hoping these are standard shims used across several makes and models, and that I may be able to source them locally????? if not are they usually stacked or would I need to order in a needed thickness?

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Probably an 'as required' use at the factory during assembly to get the pedal clearance. The part number is 30611-27260 says 4 were used. Used on the Patrol, 311 Roadster, 520 and 521, and the 1200 sedan

 

As there are some already on it, I assume, you could remove one and use as a template to cut more.

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Probably an 'as required' use at the factory during assembly to get the pedal clearance. The part number is 30611-27260 says 4 were used. Used on the Patrol, 311 Roadster, 520 and 521, and the 1200 sedan

 

As there are some already on it, I assume, you could remove one and use as a template to cut more.

And... That's an option to squeezing my 6'3" bad back self underneath the dash again!!!!!!

Thank you!!!! 

 

 

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The pin you're referring to is the same diameter for both...brake and clutch...... 5/16 or 8mm.  It's actually 8mm, but if you can't find a metric one, the 5/16 is close enough.  8mm + .31496 and 5/16" = .3125

 

Did you check the pedal height from the floor as spec'd in the FSM?  Could be your pedal is set too low.

 

If you got a factory replacement, then it came with a non-adjustable push rod.....right?  It's the captured type with the mushroom head on it.  I'll be really surprised if it's not.  Any scrap yards near you?  You can get a pin from almost any older datsun....probably almost any Asian import.

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On 10/2/2021 at 4:27 PM, mainer311 said:

There’s a little plastic plug that snaps into the brake pedal where it contacts the brake light switch. Mine rotted and fell out one day, which makes the lights stay on the whole time. Make sure your plug is still there.

 

I don't know if I would have spotted the lack of the plug behind the brake switch if you hadn't posted this!!!!! 

Why the hell didn't they just leave it solid. Why did they make a hole the perfect size for the brake switch to fit through if the plug was missing? lol

 

I guess I'll dig around at the hardware store to figure out a good something to plug it up!

 

The pushrod was super easy to pull out. Yes there's a circlip, but it slid out easily.  I'll trim some off the threaded end, put it back together and I'll be able to adjust the pedal free play to spec. 

 

I did spot a small leak in the damn radiator where the body meets the top piece. I may see if the local radiator shop can fix it proper for me. If that's wild expensive I guess the ebay aluminum units are the go to for these trucks (from what I've read so far). 

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 Got the radiator fixed at a local place. Cut down the pushrod to the MC so the brakes are releasing. 

 

I'd figured out midweek that the choke was sticking shut. It's a good 75 degrees so I've just got the choke fully disengaged. Blast of fuel when I hit engage the accelerator pump. New fuel filter, sight glass on the hitachi verifies I have a full fuel bowl. 

I got it running earlier, and damn it took a while to get it to start, and rev out well. I got the timing close to set but failed to get my radiator cap back from the shop, and the radiator was wanting to boil over. So I took a break to go to run an errand I needed to take care of this morning. 

 

Now that the truck has cooled down its not wanting to rev out when I get it started. Same problem I was struggling with this morning. It like once i get it warmed up the carb finally come to life and wants to work. Before that it rough stumbly idle, no response to alterations with the gas pedal. 

Not sure if it's carb... timing... distributor???? 

 

Having to take a brake because it's pissing me off and I'm stumped. 

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Man I got a Weber 32/36 with intake manifold (or not) if you’re interested.  It works and I ran it my truck for 3/4k miles.  Would eliminate the carb being the problem and allow you to get rid of they host anchor of a hitachi.  

864DB86C-CFB9-4897-83B2-EBC21AD576EF.jpeg

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Dumb question! Whats the head size on the main pulley bolt. It's really kinda crammed in there behind the fan shroud etc. I need to figure out what tool combo I need to get in there to turn the motor by hand.

I haven't adjusted the valves yet. From working on dirtbikes (four stroke)..... I know that when a bike is hard to start, a lot of times its a indication that intake valve(s) are tight.

The truck does like to backfire occasionally in my pain in the ass warm up "process".

Regardless if this is my issue, I'm sure the engine can benefit from an adjustment !!!?!?!!!!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

For those of you running a Weber 32/36 dgv. The vac hose (tube) size on the distributor is something like 1/8" and the carb side is something like 1/4". 

What's the best/ most common solution?   Cram a 1/8" vac hose on there!?

 

This is the kinda problem thats pretty easy to solve. But if I can save a trip to get bits and pieces it'd be appreciated. 

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